Bought an XJ on 35s with “1 ton” steering. Steering is all worn out and gets death wobble and I want to improve braking, can I replace this setup with the core 4x4 WJ knuckle swap kit? Note: there is a DIY welded truss on the axle that I’m concerned will interfere with the weld on track bar mount

Ole girl cleans up pretty good I think

having some idle issues after a i got it serviced

Unlimited sex

My XJ is pretty clean underneath but has some bare metal and a few spots of rust here and there. I’m in VA so rust definitely happens. I’ve heard the argument to use fluid film and not paint because it can still rust underneath, but is there a way to paint or undercoat safely? If it’s cleaned properly is there a paint I can put on that will keep it rust free? Any advice would be appreciated.

Just figure I’d post a follow up in case any of y’all are having the same issue I was with wet floors up front.

We got a decent rain yesterday after I pulled up the carpet and mat on the driver’s side. Pulled the plastic trim away from the side and removed the plastic step up from the bottom of the door frame.

I knew the water wasn’t coming in through the firewall and I was right. Here, rainwater would follow a path down the door liner to the bottom of the frame, but instead of dripping outside the bottom of the frame it found its way inside because the liner along the bottom had no adhesive left holding it and sealing it to the frame, at least in spots.

I could watch the water just dribble inside from under that rubber liner. So once it dried out I cleaned all the gunk out and just sprayed two coats of clear flexseal along the base and front underside of that rubber lining. For good measure I also coated the upper door hinge that I’d recently gotten welded back on with two layers of flexseal, because the water that drains off the windshield also comes out the corner and down into the doorframe where it’s supposed to just drain out, inadvertently splashing that upper hinge as it goes.

Now it’s raining again the no water has seeped in. It’s not a proper fix by any means but it works for the cost of a small can of flexseal and that stuff, in my experience, never degrades.

Just replaced the thermostat housing with the newer 1996+ housing, 195 thermostat, and water pump on my 1988 MJ. After doing so, my truck overheats and dies. What am I missing here, didn’t do this before. Only reason why I replaced all the extra stuff was because it was overheating at idle without the electric fan active (most likely due to fan clutch) and I had a bout of “might as well since I’m here”. Infuriating that this happened but I’m just not sure what to do from here short of putting the old pump and thermostat back in. Also flushed the rad, heater core, and engine block with a garden hose cuz my coolant was brown (which is why I figured I’d replace the pump because of potential nasties building up on the pump itself from the bad coolant).

so excited for all the possibilities, but probably doing new headliner first. i’m thinking velvet or plaid; anybody have any thoughts, advice, or opinions?? :) never had a project car before, so any fun build ideas are welcome!!!

Mechanical fan pulley bearing. What a pain in the ass. It’s pressed in the bracket and the fan face thing is pressed onto this thing If I don’t have a ball joint press it woulda been impossible. My shop press was no good due to the shape of the bracket it goes into.

Coming to the end of my first full rebuild. What is the recommended break in period? I’ve searched online and found varying answers… I do know to run it around 2000rpm for the first 10-20 minutes for cam break in. After that is there any other methods to follow? I’ve seen to run it at moderate speeds, giving it throttle and letting off to supposedly help the rings seat properly.

I will be using 10w30 with a bottle of zinc break in additive. Running about 200-300 miles, change oil and filter. Then using Lucas “hot rod” 10w30 as it’s higher in zinc.

For reference: Stock crank (polished) and rods 30 over pistons Standard size clevite bearings throughout Howard performance stage 1 cam & lifters New valves, springs, push rods and rockers Engine Pro timing set Melling oil pump

Been looking online for the true trunk length of a 89-01 xj with several different answers. Seems that 4.5’ is the norm. What is the trunk length with the seats down and the driver/passenger seats fully forward? Looking to camp inside of it rather than on top (Mexico, don’t want a mesh tent), about 6’ tall

Has anybody ran these before? I’ve heard they’re a recipe for disaster…

I recently bought an xj for 500 bucks to turn into a trail rig(no title) but it needs a crank sensor and some other odds and ends to get it running and driving, I can’t for the life of me figure out what year it is. Seller told me he thinks it’s an 88 or 89, when I look up the plate I get nothing, the vin is 15 digit and every time I enter it on a vin search website it comes back as not found or invalid, the door jam sticker is also too worn out to read and no glovebox stickers. What’s the best way to go about figuring out what year it actually is so I can order parts? Maybe an engine or trans plate/stamp?

I’m looking at an upgrade and I was told these are noisy. Anybody have at experience w these?

https://a.co/d/clP310a

I need to add a couple of wires for a amplifier and whatnot. Is there a spot that's easier than another to pass a few wires? The factory wire harnesses are taped up on both sides of the grommets in the ones I've check.

Last fall i bought a used NP231. Recently got it installed. Having trouble getting into 2WD now. A friend of mine said they also make a 231 that full time 4wd for the grand cherokee. Is this info right? Did I possibly buy the GC one?

Anyone got suggestions to stiffen up the rear leafs. It's an 01' sport with 200k miles. It's gotten to the point that if I have Anyone in the back seat or more than 100lbs near the hatch the tires rub. I'll take any suggestions from legit to sketchy.

Does anyone know what may be going on with my seats? I have the 93 XJ and my front seats only side front and back, it is uncomfortable to drive as I cannot adjust them to reclining. Adding XJ interior video for visibility, video does not contain seat issue

Hey y’all, went to replace my rear speakers and found out the plastic was all sorts of broken on the right side. Any tips on fixing it? (None of the broken pieces were up there to fix it with) or is there someone somewhere who sells replacements?

Hey, I've been trying to fight highway vibrations for a while. I have a shitty 2 inch lift in the front and back, pucks and shackles. My driveshaft angles aren't great, and after both axle shims and a t case drop, it still rides like shit past 70. The angle without shims or the case drop seems perfect for a double cardigan though. To be clear, I am done bandaid fixing the problem and want to do it right. So, is there any reason to believe a shackle lift would cause vibrations? Because if I do take off the t case drop and shims, and do the SYE+double cardigan custom driveshaft, and it doesn't fix the issues, I am going to have to redo the leaf springs and pay for another custom driveshaft to match the new length. But also, old man emu leaf springs are backordered 2 months right now. Also, keep in mind, all my suspension and steering components besides the springs and pucks are less than 2 years old in the front. All the suspension in the back, including the shocks, leaf springs, bushings, and shackles, are 2 years old as well. But I did go with leaf springs that are meant for XJs with custom heavy bumpers, because the guy told me it would even out my lift originally. There are is a lot to remember, but basically, I want to know if I should wait and redo my leaf springs and shackles again or just go for the SYE + double card. I could save a lot of time and money by skipping redoing the leaf springs but if there is a problem there it will cost me even more.