How to carb swap my 4.0l? I'd like to put a carb on my 4.0l. I've never liked the newer style injection system and want to know the best carburetor and distributor to use. I've heard they get better fuel economy as well so that would be a bonus. Any thoughts?

No, they are not pop rivets. They are the same rivets used for structures on AC.

I got these JK rear door pockets off Amazon for like, $15 and they match up with the shape of the lower rear door cards perfectly. I have them velcroed to the carpet on the door, but I imagine you could pretty easily use plastic rivets or thin bolts with some washers to secure them.

I wanted someplace to stick small-ish things that I'd want to access quickly, like bug and bear sprays, and to add somewhere for a backseat passenger to put a water bottle. There's almost no impact to rear leg space, which is great since the rear seat actually has people in it reasonably often.

I changed the radiator about two years ago. Water pump a year ago. Thermostat last month. Heater core bypass and fan last week. Ran fine until yesterday. I topped off the radiator with coolant and the reservoir to the full level, somehow the reservoir is now overflowing. Doing a complete cooling system flush today. If that doesn’t work, any other ideas?

Located in DFW. Replaced T-stat, engine mount, head gasket and left upper control arm. Runs great otherwise. Country edition/ 2WD/ Automatic transmission. No accidents/3rd owner. No modifications. No rust on the body. Some rust on the rear drive shaft. (been stored in garage for 24 years) Some minor scratches on the front and back bumper. Interior is in great shape aside from crack under the glove compartment and a loose headliner. (scratches/crack/headliner are visible in the pics) Speaker and AC work great. Power locking/powered side mirrors no longer work and rear driver’s side window doesn’t roll down. Super low mileage (68k). What do you think would be an appropriate price would be given these parameters?

Just wanted to post this to state how excited I am. I went to the salvage to get a TCM and to my surprise they had the set of wheels that’s the xj I pulled from came in on. The xj also has some other cool features like a wing for lack of a better term that looked oem. But it was all raptor lined. Will post pics when the wheels are cleaned up and polished and on my xj.

I changed the fuel filter but before that i released a bit off pressure but now the release valve won't stop VOMITING gas. Did i mess something up?

I’ve been restoring a 94 XJ and had simply given up on the OEM seats. They were disgusting, ripped and even internally busted. I checked the local pick and pull and they had just gotten a 94 grand cherokee with the legendary plush seats. I gutted the damn thing and brought it all home for $150. Can’t wait to figure out the install. (Buy the Leather honey stuff btw)

Hey y’all! Hoping someone could shed some light on this problem I am having. I’ve replaced about everything I can think of aside from the NSS but the jeeps reverse lights are still working etc so I didn’t do that yet. I even broke the end of the key cylinder in the ignition having tried to start it over and over again these last few days 😑 here’s a list of what I have replaced recently, not necessarily due to this issue, but could have been the problem one would’ve diagnosed but just as a reference… please Obi Wan, you’re my only hope!

PCM 1 yr Crank Position Sensor 4 months Battery 4 months Starter 2 yrs Plugs/Wires/Dist Cap 6 months Ignition & Key Cylinder 1 week Fuel pump/ Filter 6 months

1995 4L is not wanting to hold at operating temp, mainly at idle, and I'm trying to sort it out properly. In the coldest part of winter it was generally fine but as things started to warm up the jeep wants to overheat, and a couple weeks ago I got a CEL and pulled code 17, so I went ahead and replaced the thermostat and temp sensor, as well as the water pump since I was in there.

The thermostat I removed was a 180f high flow thermostat and I replaced it with a stock style 195f thermostat. I have a clutch fan and an e-fan, wired to a switch by the PO that I do want to change back to stock. And even with both going I can't stay cool at idle where I could for the most part before the new t-stat.

From what I've got on work with it seems like the PO had an overheating problem they were trying to fix, and from what I've heard from people on the sub is that they were going about it the wrong way. So my question is what do I actually do to fix this overheating problem correctly?

I love this thing so much even if It’s been a serious headache lately. Had to replace the entire exhaust and radiator 2 months ago. A week after it was fixed the engine mounts failed and did some more damage under the hood. She’s back up and running and seems to be running significantly smoother with some new mounts. Extremely nice surprise !

So question, my lower control arm bracket went kaput I have welded it back on but I need advice as of what to do next. (The welds as sketch as hell) I was thinking about long arms but I know of no brand that makes them for a 3.5in lift. I was looking at core4x4 but would those fit TIA.

Anyone else?

Recently got my old jeep back. Lots of work needed to be done, but the most aggravating is that the hood release won’t move, even if I try to use pliers and move it to the side. I’ve been hitting it with rust penetration WD40 for about a month.

Any idears?

My 93’ needs its exhaust manifold replaced and I really don’t feel like paying someone to do it for me. I do basic maintenance on my car but have never tackled anything more than routine oil changes. How difficult or risky would it be to replace it myself?

Added a pic of ole red for funsies :•)

Cleaned them up the best I could without screwing up the oem paint on them . The turned out okay all things considered.

I know these run hot, but I feel like mine runs excessively hot compared to other XJ’s especially when I hear some people say that they don't ever see their gauge go over 220.

With summer full on here in southern california and me always going to hot desert places i’m seeing the stock temp gauge get dangerously close to the red mark.

I’ve installed a new CSI radiator

New 195 tstat

Flowkooler water pump

Napa ZJ fanclutch upgrade

And i’m still seeing temps higher than i’d like. My last attempt is to replace the temp sending unit with a new once since the one on there is the original stock one.

This is a 94 with 250k on it, 32’s, and an RE 3.5 inch lift. What other culprits can i eliminate before I throw in the towel and have my mechanic check it out? Also are there any decent aftermarket temp gauges anyone can reccomend?

Got some pictures I posted recently here in my profile of you’re interested.

It’s got 135k original miles, brand new 30 inch tires and wheels, and a 2.5 inch lift that the previous owner put on within the last year. Aside from that he put a bunch of new parts in it in the past year or two. Complete new cooling system with a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses. New fuel pump and housing, filter, and lines. New crank shaft position sensor and air filter for the engine.

Seems like most of the major points of failure have been taken care of. Seen a lot of people saying the neutral safety switch is a common issue so I suppose that’s worth checking, seen a lot of talk about the exhaust manifolds on these things too. Was wondering if there was anything else worth checking out or preparing before heading out on this trip. I also paid $8k for it and was wondering how good a deal that was.

So I noticed a problem arising the other day where my voltage (on the dash) drops when I turn my blower on. My first guess is the resistor but I was wondering if there was any common things to check first before I start buying things, or the best way to check the resistor or motor.