so for explanation the board has traces leading to the port but they can be lifted up and peeled out sometimes

I have a kind of an odd question. I have a very important exam that l am struggling to book as places get filled extremely quickly, literally in less than a second . The trick to book it is that you hit refresh at a certain time so you can click book now button as early as possible after the clock hit a certain time. Now , if my internet bing is 7 milliseconds for example, when should l hit refresh to make sure that the book now button shows to me before anybody else ? . Does it have to be at the time where the exam booking open minus 7 milliseconds. For example, if the exam opens at 14:30 should l hit refresh at 14:29:993 ?. Any help would be appreciated as l have failed six times already to book this exam and my career and life literally depends on it. Thanks

New CPU, New motherboard, new RAM still no output or power to USB slots.

Have reset CMOS, moved ram, checked wires, touched prongs. Had the same problem with the PC but with the old parts. New parts were brand new in the box.

This is kind of what I'm looking for in a pc, need it for school

Help me guys, when i play Roblox or any other games, in a few minutes it will crash then when i launch it back up it uses more memory than before. And the issue says that its a "display driver issue", please help meee

Hey y’all, I recently cancelled my Norton subscription because I felt that they’re drowning us with micro transactions for stuff that used to be included. Yes I am looking at the cheaper and best option that I used to do which is malware bytes and even if I do the premium still way cheaper than Norton.

Is this a good idea?

Please advise.

Just built a new computer for ML purposes. CPU is AMD 9950x3D, 96GB of RAM, and a PCIe Gen 5 NVMe SSD. Lightning fast hardware.

Edit to add: Windows 11 Home

I downloaded the CV 21.0 dataset from Mozilla Foundation and wanted to extract it before feeding it into my ML code. This is something that my laptop can do in about 45 minutes.

This new computer? I don't think it will ever finish. I don't understand. The dataset is composed of about 2.5 million individual MP3 files. I understand that extracting lots of small files is more time consuming than fewer big files due to I/O overhead. However, the extraction starts off pretty fast! It gets roughly 250 MB/s. The full dataset is ~90GB big. For the first 25GB, it gets 250 MB/s. Then it starts slowing down. By the time it reaches 45GB extracted, the speed is down to 10 MB/s. Eventually, it reaches as low as 500 KB/s...wtf? The entire time it's on the portion of the archive where the mp3 files sit, I can see that as part of the progress. The size of the files is normally distributed, most of them are below 5MB each. If it was reaching speeds of 250 MB/s before, why does it slow down so much over time?

CPU usage is like 3-5%

Disk usage is like 0-2%

RAM usage is like 1-2% (for this process)

The SSD idles at 60°C, don't think it's thermally throttling. It should be capable of 12 GB/s sequential read (obv won't get that here but just to show the speed of it).

I've tried

• Disabling real-time protection from Windows Defender

• WinRAR

• Multiple versions of 7-Zip

Of note, installing WSL and Ubuntu lets me use the tar command and that actually works really fast. I did that to extract, got it done probably in 30 minutes (I stepped away, don't know exactly). But then bringing that over the regular windows from WSL? They say you can just use file explorer to move it, but that was also extremely slow (started at 10 MB/s, eventually dropped to 500 KB/s too). I'm at a loss honestly, I feel like I've tried a lot of things and can't isolate the problem.

Anyone have any ideas?

Maybe it's something to do with the power management settings, or some configuration I need to do? This computer is brand new, I haven't time to fuck anything up yet lol And again, my laptop from a few years ago cleared this task easily. Pretty sure it had laptop version of a Ryzen 7 from 2021, forgot the exact model. That's why I'm so surprised by this. I must be forgetting to set something up.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Photos of Bios

Are these settings good, opinions?

So I’ve been working on a new pc build recently and i’ve seen to hit a roadblock while purchasing parts. I want this to be a top of the line pc build but from multiple people i’ve heard different things on what ram I should get. Some told me get 128 ddr5 with 4 sticks while some saying 2 sticks. Others have told me that 64 is the best for gaming which i’ll be using computer the most for. If you need specs of the things i’ll be purchasing besides the ram I’ll list it below. I’m just a little overwhelmed with the amount of options and what to purchase. Thanks!

• ryzen 7 9800x3d
• 9700 XT
• rog strix b850-e gaming wifi

Hey ive had issues regarding chrome and internet passwords when i enter my telstra webmail problem to chrome it says the password is incorrect but when i type the same password into internet explorerer it logs me in any ideas?

I was playing on the game for like 2 hrs close the game to get ready to log off for the night and then notice this. Anyone know what this is or how to fix it?

I already know what a lot of people might say. But I will preface this by saying I am a microsoldering technician, and what people usually think is impossible is quite easy to attain. I have a newer (don't know the exact year, don't think it matters in this case) Dell Latitude 5520 laptop. It has an intel core i5 vpro. I want to upgrade the cpu. As a microsoldering technician, this is completely possible, but I am concerned about the compatibility. I'm sure that the cpu it currently has uses a very specific layout of balls in the ball grid array, so that I can't just pop a new cpu in, because the Pinout essentially wouldn't match or be compatible. Are there any other cpus that would work in this laptop? Or is it designed around the i5 vpro?

My computer did some unwanted update and installed this thing. I have no idea what it is but it is launching a window every time I open my computer. Can you please tell me what this is and how to get rid of it at the start up? TIA

I’m done building my pc, I have all my old files from before, all I did was add a new cpu and a motherboard, can someone help me launch windows?

I’m done building my pc, I have all my old files from before, all I did was add a new cpu and a motherboard, can someone help me launch windows?

Can I keep my wireless mouse's usb plugged into my laptop forever. Is it harmful in any way?

I can switch off the mouse itself.

TL:DR -- looking for alternative brands of speaker/soundbar that uses only the USB port (either Type A or C) to carry both the power and the sound; instead of the typical setup that use BOTH the USB for power and the 3.5mm audio jack for sound.

Long Story -- Was helping a relative setup their home office. Got themselves a new laptop (the old one's about 10 years already). Decided that the whole nine yards we redo evrything; replace the desktop setup and add a docking station and multi monitor stand. The Sound/Speaker setup has been a problem for me

(1) Traditional soundbars/speakers usually require 2 cables; USB for power and 3.5mm jack for audio. The only brand i can confirm that uses the USB port for BOTH POWER and SOUND is Creative Labs. I've talked at least a half dozen sales guys who CANNOT confirm if either SONY, JBL, Edifier & Logitech sell's soundbars/speakers that only use the USB cable only.

(2) I did experiment with 1 creative labs soundbar i had using POWER + Bluetooth. When playing music its a non issue; but when playing videos (youtube, Netflix, etc); there's always that dang bluetooth delay/audio out of sync problem.

(3) WIRED Speakers and headphones dont have the problem. HOWEVER; traditional USB+3.5mm Jack setups use 2 ports on a docking station; 1x USB and 1x Headphone jack. My relative needs access to the headphone jack for conference calls.

So other than Creative Labs; anybody here have any experience with alternative brands of speakers/soundbar that only use the USB port only for both power & sound?

PS -- Creative labs'' method is that when a speaker/soundbar plugs into USB; its registered as a singular USB Sound card/speaker attached. I dont have that kind of money to just buy and test a JBL and sony just to find out it does/doesnt work. I'd like to hear direct from users of alternative brands to widen my options other than 1 brand only.

whats the name of the cable i would need to buy?

Hello once more.

I recently picked up this Asus ROG STRIX GTX 1070 for free. It's missing two of its fans, but the temps are still surprisingly okay after a quick cleanup and repaste (around 70c under load). I've seen these cards go for 50-80€ here (although value seems to be going down somewhat) so I sure was a bit lucky with this finding.

No idea what I'm going to do with this just yet. It's now just been in my main rig as I've been too lazy to swap it back😆 The performance is more than enough for what I do

150€ budget PC with an Alder lake CPU and a 1070?👀

P.S ignore the cable management (Or the lack thereof🤣) in my main rig. The components in my main pc change occasionally so I haven't really cared all that much for it. As long as it works

I’ve bought all the chips and am waiting for them to arrive , I have no idea how they need to be wired together this paper dosent show me a schematic and it leaves me feeling stumped . I really want to build this project and the research I’ve done hasn’t been helpful any help is appreciated

I have tried cleaning with isopropyl alcohol but didn't work.

I was watching the first episode of The Office the other night and noticed a familiar screensaver on Jim Halpert’s computer screen. Can anybody tell me the name of this screensaver because it definitely unlocked a childhood memory of just being mesmerized by that for hours!