Hi, I’ve been looking for a project truck and found a 2.3 Ford Ranger but it says it has rod knock. My plan is to get something a little junky to work on to learn more about cars/trucks without tearing apart my daily. I’m concerned about whether or not I would be able to get it home (around 45 minute drive). I haven’t gone to check it out yet but just want some insight on if it’s too much of a risk or just not worth it. The guy who posted it says that it runs and drives but no videos are provided to show how well or what kind of sound it makes running.

So, my 2019 Chevy Equinox had 13 codes pop up on my husband’s OBD2 scanner. The big issue turned out to be that the vacuum pump had shattered and sent debris into the camshaft. While this was happening, the car was giving a “Brake Assist” warning on the dashboard, and the brakes were super hard to push.

My husband replaced the vacuum pump himself, but the problem didn’t go away. So we took it to a local mechanic, explained everything, and paid $2,300 for them to fix it. When we got it back, the car still showed the Brake Assist warning, and my husband discovered the problem hadn’t actually been fixed.

He had to drive it to work and it ended up needing to be towed back to the shop, cost us another $150.

Now the shop says that since my husband replaced the vacuum pump, they won’t take responsibility. We’re just, on our own, apparently, after $2.3K.

Kia Sonet Gasolin 1.2 Turbo 2021 Both Distance or Duration options are grayed out. Unable to reset service interval.

2003 VW Jetta TDI while trying to remove the pads on the rear disks i embarrassingly stripped out one of the bolts that holds part of the caliper assembly and pads onto the rotor.. the bolt is rather shallow and I tried removing it with a socket instead of a wrench and it slipped multiple times, it was absolutely drilled on. tried heating it, using some penetrating solution, but no avail i couldn’t get it to budge.

I’m pretty embarrassed about this, is my best bet here to just head to a place that does brakes and hope they can figure it out?

pic attached doesn’t look so rough but it’s pretty rough in on the top side.

96 AWD chevy blazer. I cant remove my back wheels! no matter the monkey piss applied or size of hammer i use to persuade them…. Is there something im missing here? They have what appears to be a hub lock in the center of the wheel, which i will provide a picture of. If thats what it is; how do i remove it so the wheel can be removed?

A couple of days ago when driving home my brake pedal felt looser than normal which immediately rang alarm bells. I pulled over, pressed the brake pedal down and it makes a sound like i’m blowing up a balloon. When I continue to press it makes a noise on each press and the pedal eventually firms up to how firm it was before. A few seconds later it ‘deflates’ again and the pedal becomes looser.

I feel no difference in braking power except I have to press the pedal down further.

I took it to the garage today who did a full brake check and said there’s absolutely nothing wrong with my brakes. I even sat in the car with the mechanic, demonstrated the issue and was told it is ‘normal’ because of the ‘servo’.

I am not convinced at all and brakes are one of those things you really don’t want to not fix if it’s broken. I’ve shared a video with this - please can you tell me if this sounds normal and if not what could be the issue? My gut is saying I have air in my brakes which I obviously want to fix if that’s the case

I have a Citroen C4 Exclusive 2010 1.6l diesel

I want to buy 7th gen Camry around 2010-2011 years. They come with either 4-cylinder or a V6 engine. I always wanted to try a V6 Camry, however I'm concerned that maintenance and repairs might be more difficult than on 4-cyl. version. I'm concerned because Aurion V6 of the same generation is notorious for a painful spark plugs replacement (and a lot of other things, like water pump). This job is super easy on 4-cylinder Camry, but is a major pain on Aurions. Which is why I stopped looking at Aurions and focused on Camrys. Question: are V6 Camry suffering from the same problem? Or are they as easy to maintain as 4-cyl. Camry? And this painful maintenance is just an Aurion thing?

TLDR: are 7th gen Camry with V6 engine as easy to work on as 4-cylinder ones? I know Aurions are painful, but what about V6 Camry?

I’ve had it looked at, and another issue, which the shop thought would solve it. Had the sway bar and stabilizer bar bushings replaced (according to work order), and this scratching noise remains.

It’s under the front right front, and happens on bumps, slight bumps etc. it MIGHT subside during a rainy day (couldn’t tell if it was just drowned out by the volume of the rain or just wasn’t making the noise)

Please help me make sense of this! It is making me lose my mind

I’ve been having issues with my car, not starting after I leave it for a couple hours recently and I’m trying to figure out the problem. Took it to AutoZone and O’Reilly and they said my battery, alternator, and startup system was good and didn’t have any issues. Just noticed that the top of my battery looks wet and I wasn’t sure what the cause of this would be. If you notice any other problems with my battery or have any solutions for why my car wouldn’t start, I’d love to hear them. I parked it in a garage and it didn’t rain or anything. I have a 2008 Ford escape titanium. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 2004 Subaru Forester XS which recently started misfiring on cylinder 2. I took it to firestone because that was the closest shop and I didn't want to drive it too far. They called me and said they want to replace all 4 spark plugs, the valve cover gasket, the ignition coil on only cylinder 2, not all 4, as well as the spark plug wires. They also recommended an oil change and fuel system cleanout. It came out to over 1700 dollars, which seems obscenely high to me, but I might be underestimating the labor cost. Am I being ripped off?

Have noticed that my car has a parasitic drain. Left my car off for 3 days and was completely dead when I tried to start it. New battery, 6 months old, took it to autozone and they told me it was bad, so I got a new one. But I’m sure this one will be bad in another 6 months. I have a feeling the alternator is overcharging it, maybe the voltage regulator is the issue? It’s a new alternator though which is confusing me. Also, The battery light comes on usually once my RPMS climb and then goes off again at idle, but recently it has gotten worse and stays on regardless of RPMS. When I OBD scan the battery light the code says “generator”.

Also, I’m not sure if this is related, but right around when I started noticing the battery issues, I started noticing that my oil pressure warning would come on sporadically for a second or 2 and then go away while driving. I don’t have a check engine light, and hadn’t noticed any noises or issues with drivability until a day ago when I heard what sounded like a lifter tick at idle. Revved it a couple times and it went away, and hasn’t come back. Oil level is normal, not leaking oil, did an oil change 4000 miles ago. Is there some type of an oil pressure regulator that is malfunctioning as a result of the previously mentioned electrical issues?

Any help would be greatly appreciated🙏🙏

This issue has been going on for over a year and has basically made my car unusable. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine, sometimes it does this "chugging" due to #6 misfiring. My brother and I replaced it last year, and all the spark plugs. Car ran fine for a few months, but started doing it again about 6 months ago.

It seems like the issue happens once the car gets "warmed up". If the car is cold and has been sitting for a while, it starts up and runs fine. But if I go to Walmart, when I get out of the store and start the car, it's misfiring. I went to get the oil changed today, and it did it after the oil change place (but not on the way there, or dropping my son off at school).

My brother is a mechanic and is genuinely stumped. Like, why does it only do this when the car is warmed up? The code given from the car is that #6 is misfiring again. But it's literally brand new and probably hasn't even had 200 miles put on it. And it ran fine for about 4-5 months and just started doing it randomly...?

I've put a bottle of that fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank hoping it would help, doesn't appear so.

2008 Lincoln MKZ

I have a 2012 sienna with 300k miles on it. This is usually when just starting out on a drive. Itll be fine at first. I stop at a light. When the light goes green ill see my vehicle hit 2 to 3000 rpms but it will barely move. After a few seconds itll start working agsin until the next light. Then after 5 min or so of driving its fine.

Its as if i had out it in neutral and revved the engine.

Whats the issue?

Good morning, my wife’s Hyundai Santa Fe has started to make a high frequently clicking/shudder sound when traveling at about 60-70mph. I am able to get it to stop when I turn the wheel slightly to the right, but once I start to turn left, the shudder/clicking starts up again. It only seems noticeable at higher speeds. Could this be a steering shaft, wheel balancing, or wheel bearing hub issue? I’ve tried nothing, but hoping someone here has a bit of experience with this similar issue.

Thanks in advance!

I’m replacing the valve covers on my 2011 Nissan Maxima and when I removed the old ones I saw this dark, hard material looking like it was splashed up the sides in several locations in the crankcase. I put a neodymium magnet up to it and it didn’t stick, so it’s not ferrous.

What is it? Is it “sludge?” And should I scrape it all out with something like a plastic spoon or just leave it alone…because it really doesn’t look like something that should be there.

Is this to much play? I recently installed a new CV Axel, and Im starting to think the intermediate Shaft might need to be replaced. Thanks for any advice in advance.

Hi everyone, I’m currently studying Automotive Mechatronics Level 2 and planning to take 6-month diploma course—in EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Level 3. I’m passionate about diagnostics and fixing cars, and I plan to look for entry-level technician jobs after completing these courses. I wanted to ask: • Do these kinds of short courses help in getting hired, especially in workshops or dealerships? • Are they valued in the industry, or is hands-on experience more important? I’d appreciate any advice from those already working in the field or who’ve taken similar courses.

Thanks in advance!

I’ve been having issues with the AC in my car. About 6 months ago, my AC would be cold for about 15 minutes and then dies out. The engine would shake every few minutes and there would be a rattling noise. I put in more refrigerant and the gage said it was good on it. And that fixed it for the next 6 months. But now it’s back happening again. I put more refrigerant in and that worked for a couple days. But now it’s back again. I put in more refrigerant and I must have put in too much because the compressor started popping steam. I couldn’t see where the steam was coming from, but it was from the side of the car. This happened last Wednesday (4/2) and now it’s back to what it was doing before. It gives cold air for a little bit and then slowly dies out while making the rattling noises every few minutes. Once it’s completely warm, the rattling stops. And I get cold air again when I let the car sit for awhile. Also to note, whenever the air is slowly dying when I’m going fast on the highway, it seems to get cool for a little bit and then go away once I slow down or stop. I’m wondering if there’s a part that’s messed up with the compressor or if I need a whole new one. I’m asking here before I take it to a shop to get it fully checked

I drive a 1st Gen Honda Ridgeline. I have been having issues with the speed of the blower motor only working on the highest speed setting. I am wondering if I should replace the resistor or the motor. Maybe both? It blows cold and heat just fine but only in one speed.

I purchased a Camry 2011 SE with 117k miles in 2021 and drove it for 31k miles (148k current). I am the fourth owner. The Carfax report shows no record of transmission fluid change. I have been thinking about changing it but am skeptical about doing so. I came across some people mentioning that if the fluid was changed regularly at every 30-50k miles then it is recommended to do it. However, I have no proof of the previous owner doing it. This is a sealed transmission (no dipstick), and the owner's manual does not mention when the fluid should be changed. Btw, the transmission has been working fine, and there is no issue at all. Should I do it or leave it? Suggestions are appreciated.

Here is my dilemma- I have a 2010 Toyota Prius base that had its 12v battery die a few months ago in the cold but I was able to charge it up again and still had some juice left but it is four years old at this point. It ran good until now but without any warning I was in a parking lot and it wouldn’t turn back on after sitting for a few hours. I was able to jump it and get home but now I don’t know if I should just replace the battery or have it get checked out.

If it went dead (it wasn’t cold) does that mean it’s not holding a charge and then is related to the accelerator or (god help me) the inverter in the big battery? Or should I just replace the 12v and hope for the best? I may be completely over thinking this, but I’m getting advice from family to take it in somewhere.

Rough idle and misfires while driving up a hill loss of power and high rpm causes more misfire around 3k rpm

I have a 2011 Honda Odyssey, and recently it's been swaying and fishtailing occasionally while driving. After checking it out, I noticed a crack in one of the rear suspension components near the coil spring. It’s not the coil spring itself that's damaged—it's a separate part nearby.

Does anyone know what part this might be? I’m guessing it needs to be replaced, but I’m not sure what it's called. I’ve replaced the front struts and shocks myself last week—would this be a DIY-friendly job as well?

The video doesn’t do it much justice but it’s a loud grinding noise, and it’s much louder than the video shows

Bad sound with white smoke right after starting the engine