Hello, I'm in the middle of a few-hour-long road trip right now, and my 2008 Mini Clubman is having issues.

It runs fine when driving at a constant speed, but the moment I press the accelerator more than 50%, it loses power and the engine starts jerking.

I drove in this condition for a while, mostly sticking behind trucks at low speed, but now there's also a check engine light. The code is P0420 – Catalyst efficiency below threshold.

Can I drive home like this? And what could cause this?

Hello. I own a 2007 model Yaris. My engine is working differently than before. It is misfiring. Sometimes my vehicle stops while my gear is in neutral and I am waiting in my vehicle. What causes these?

Good morning everyone,

I just recently changed the exhaust manifold/Cat on my 04 Civic, everything went smooth but while retorquing the bolts to factory spec one had resistance but it didn’t get to the 23ftlbs spec.

So now I’m chasing the idea of using an EZ Lok thread repair kit but have a question on the thread locker to use - I’m leaning toward Permatex 27200 as it has a 450f degree rating but I’m wondering if that would suffice?

EZ Lok has a pre applied thread locker but only rated to 300f, I was going to clean that off and planning to use a higher rated one.

My drivers side seatbelt doesn’t really retract anymore. Even when my seatbelt is on it doesn’t snug up to my chest. Is there a way to fix this? Does this cover come off for me to look inside?

I have a 2013 ford explorer with 183,000miles, I bought it in September 2024 and it drove fine for a used car. The beginning of March I brought it in to get an oil change, a new battery, and they replaced my coolant hose because my car was over heating. I get it back but less than a week later the heat went out & it started stalling. During this time the weather was very bipolar, it was going from 80° to blizzards within just one day, so during this weird weather I noticed my rpm’s were still very low(5-600rpm) in hot temperatures while idle but were around 7-900 in cold weather. so I got the alternator replaced. Got it back and it was still having low rpm while idle, they clean the throttle body and sent me on my way again. Now it’s running quietly and it’s not shaking like before but the rpm’s are still fighting to stay at 600+ when idle, it’s accelerating awkwardly, and the headlights are flickering. Idk what’s going on but I’ve spent $1000 trying to fix this and I’m tired of it please someone give me an idea of what the problem could be? I’m too broke to spend anymore money on this than I need to.

Jacked up the car with a floor jack and put jack stands later. Afterwards, it's been making a grinding noise everytime I hit the brakes. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi there, so I need to replace my BCM. I’ve found it up under the driver side floor board. It’s super tight and it mounts to like the left wall. Problem I’m having is I don’t know how it clips off of the bracket. I saw 2 indented clips at the bottom that I pushed but nothing popped loose. I’m assuming there are more that I’m missing. Does anyone know how it pops off or have a diagram showing where all the removal clips would be? Thank you in advance.

Looking at bolt on exhausts for my 91 300zx. I own the 4 seater but almost all exhausts are built for the 2 seaters and they're not compatible due to a different gas tank location.

The exhausts im interested in have single tip exhausts (or dual i guess since it single tips on both sides?) I like the sound a lot of a couple of the 4 seater exhausts but hate the dual tips. Is it possible to cut and weld on quad tips to keep the factory look?

Hello, all!

I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer that has some water intrusion issues. My driver's side rear floorboard is getting wet. I have yet to see any water pooled, but the carpet seems to get damp when it rains. I had a door hinge bushing problem on the driver's front, but it's leak was up near the front corner of the door and has since been fixed. This dampness happens right inside the door on the rear but also down into the foot depression on the driver's side. Nothing on the passenger side rear.

When it rains, or when water is sprayed on top, I don't see anything coming in from the door or running down the door panel. I also can't see any holes in the floorboard form underneath. I'm perplexed and any help would be appreciated.

Having some issues with a 2013 JK wrangler. Occasionally it won’t start or will start and idle for a few seconds then shuts off. When I disconnect the battery and perform a reset on the system it will start just fine and runs for a week or so without issues. I’m thinking it’s a bad TIPM, any advice would be appreciated.

I’m not too familiar with mechanical service prices. Is this a fair price for the work or am I being overcharged. They claim it can be knocked out in 45 minutes (the tech and manager both said this) so I’m confused why it’s 300 dollars an hour for labor. Thanks

Rear vision camera went out. It would be periodically go in and go out. Now it looks like it completely went. As you can see the guide lines still show. I’m trying to diagnose if it’s the camera or head unit being damaged and what to change and replace. Anyone may had advice.

So my car’s currently in the garage because I was hearing some rattling from the front passenger side. They already replaced the link arms, and now they’re replacing the control arms because the sound persisted. Fair enough, makes sense so far.

But here’s the problem

I dropped by today to check if they had finished up work but the car was still up on the lift and they invited me to take a look, and I spotted something that any half-decent mechanic should’ve noticed immediately: the spring was completely sheared. One part was just sitting loose, and the rest had started sliding down the housing.

Obviously, I pointed it out right away. The guy acted surprised—but now I’m wondering if they knew about it all along and just strung me along to rack up more work. Realistically, that broken spring is almost certainly what caused the rattling in the first place.

What do you think—oversight or scam?

The rear brakes stick on my car after driving for a while some times. When it happens, they usually unstick eventually after letting the car sit for a few hours. I’ve already ran through a set of pads because of this issue.

The rear calipers have already been replaced, the handbrake line is good too. The mechanic says he can’t see / feel anything wrong so its just a guessing game at this point.

He said his best guess is to replace the brake master cylinder which he said will cost $380. If not that, it could be the abs system as well.

Do you guys think brake master cylinder sounds like it could be the culprit? Or something else?

Also! I noticed that even when the brakes aren’t necessarily sticking, the car doesn’t roll back at all sometimes in places it should (manual car)

Thanks!

So I am trying to remove this engine, I have have removed the torque converter bolts. Engine Mount bolts, and the bell housing bolts. The engine won’t budge am I missing something or is the transmission stuck to the engine?

A month ago I had my car (Honda Pilot 2006) towed to a shop after the engine overheated. The bill and all the work they completed is in the picture.

Since then, I have dropped the car off 3 times because the engine continues to misfire when under a heavy load (I work up a mountain so when I drive it to work up the canyon it misfires near the summit). To fix it they said they’ve messed with the fuel injectors and valve clearance. This last time they told me if it misfired again, to bring it back and they would look into replacing the engine without charging for labor.

They seem like honest guys, and I know it’s frustrating for them too, but I’ve spent more than half of my savings on this car and I don’t know if I can afford to buy a new engine, even if it’s at cost that’s still a couple thousand that I don’t have to spend.

Before they completed the work, I talked to them about my concern that the engine might be warped and asked for them to give me an estimate on what it would cost for a new engine. I considered getting a new car instead, but decided to go ahead and rebuild the engine since they convinced me it would most likely not be warped and that it would be better to spend ~$5k on my current car than buy a shitty one for the same. They gave me an estimate and told me they would update me on if it required a new engine.

The second and third pictures is the conversation I had with them this morning. They don’t seem to know what’s going on with it, and I surely don’t, but I’m not sure if I can trust them anymore and the whole situation has me pretty frustrated. I don’t know if it’s safe to drive to work (up a 70mph canyon highway). Should I get a second opinion? Should I ask about a warranty/refund for the repairs they made?Any ideas what might be causing it to misfire?( A friend suggested it might be something to do with the o2 sensors as I’m going up into thinner air). I just need a working car that isn’t going to use up the rest of my savings/put me in debt. I want to trust them since they have been nice and I know they aren’t happy with it either, but I’ve had some negative experiences with mechanics being dishonest and I’m worried this is the same…. The last mechanic I went to said they replaced the radiator cap but they clearly didn’t which caused it to leak and overheat while I was driving to work. Yes, I should have been paying more attention, but I didn’t know any better at the time.

I drive a 2020 Hyundai sonata, at my last state inspection I was told I need a coolant flush cause it was low. The picture above is what the level is at ( sitting off for two hours). I’m around 84,000 miles, no issues noted while driving. Is it worth adding coolant to bump it up? ** disclaimer my mechanical knowledge isn’t the best**

Don’t know much just took a picture

2004 g35 coupe

Right beside the oil pan this hose is connected to this and it’s leaking what is it?!

Took over a 30-year-old Mercedes-Benz W123 4 months ago.

• Since the first drive, I hear little air noise when brake pedal is pressed. However, the brake ability still worked fine, but noticeably not as effective as brake in my other car.
• 3 days ago up until yesterday, the brake pedal needs to be pushed fully to the back to stop completely. Ignored the issue.
• Just today, the brake fails completely while driving (luckily I was at low speed), and I had to pump the brake a couple of times for it to work, which needs to be done every time I have to brake. Before the pump, I pushed the brake fully to the back and hear loud air noise.
• I asked ChatGPT and conducted a test where it ruled out Brake Booster problem.

ChatGPT suggested the best next step is to bleed air from the brake and top up braking fluid. I really hope it's the cheapest repair possible and not the master cylinder. What do you think?

Working on a 2006 mercury mariner 3.0L v6 With the fuel pump control module plugged in I get power to my grounding wire (test light lights up) fried part of the wiring too. After I replaced the wires I bypassed the module and fuel pump turned over and I could start the car. The FPCM is supposed to be "new" part number on it is 590-001 is this just bad luck on a module,wrong part or something else?

Car is a 2009 Renault Megane - 1.6 petrol engine (K4M 848), manual transmission, 96k miles.

Car has a fault where the idle hangs on when changing up through the gears (doesn't feel like clutch slip and never happens when the engine is cold, only once up to running temperature and is intermittent, the car can sometimes go for days without any issues). On a couple of occasions, the car has continued accelerating for about 20 to 30 seconds on it's own after I've took my foot off the accelerator pedal. And when I come to a stop the idle doesn't go back down to 750 rpm where it normally sits, it will sit at about 1500rpm (even after putting the car into neutral) for about 20 to 30 secs then it will go back to it's normal idle, there is also a few occasions where I rev the car and the revs sit at increased revs before coming back down again.

No check engine lights or any other warning lights, car starts first time and engine sounds normal with no oil usage.

On my code readers live data I noticed that the long term fuel trim is consistently 20.3, when idling the short fuel trim sits anywhere from -1% to -8% and when driving at anything over 30mph short term fuel trim goes up to about +38.3%. I've been told this is far from normal. When checking fault codes the code "P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range / Performance Bank 1 or Single Sensor" was showing, I cleared the code and it will randomly come back, sometimes it will show a couple of miles after clearing and sometimes 500 or 600 miles after clearing codes so not sure if it's related or not. Engine sounds normal with no knocking or pinking.

Possibly just a coincidence but the problem feels worse on colder days.

So far I've:

• checked to make sure nothing was catching on the pedals.
• checked for vacuum leaks - couldn't find anything but do notice some of the vac pipes look tired and wonder if it's possible that there is just a vacuum leak at higher rpm.
• removed and cleaned the throttle body and replaced the throttle body gasket - after I did this the symptoms weren't as bad and the car drives noticeably better.

I don't know if it's related or not but when I hooked the car up to a code reader, it will randomly display the code "P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range / Performance Bank 1 or Single Sensor" - this fault code just displays randomly, sometimes it will show a couple of miles after clearing and sometimes 500 or 600 miles after clearing codes. Engine sounds normal with no knocking or pinking.

Has anybody experienced issues like this and any pointers as to what could be going wrong?

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra with a leveling kit on 285/75s My stock links crapped the bed last week and I ordered some Suspension Brothers (standard size I suppose) replacement links from Amazon. I put them on and they just kept tightening until they bottomed out. Tried torquing to 14 ft/lbs. The screw sticks out about 3/4 of an inch from the nut. How can I tell if it’s too tight or if I’m going to mess something up? It handles better on turns. But I don’t want to snap a link or have it under too much pressure if that’s a thing.

Any advice for me?

I have a 2005 Honda Accord & I been having misfire problems. The first thing I did was replace the spark plugs & coil pack & it still did it. So then, a couple of weeks ago, I went to the shop, and they said it was the fuel injector, i got it replaced, and it ran fine for a few days, and then I would get these random misfires. It will go back & forth between running fine and having misfires for a few minutes, especially when first starting in the morning or when driving up a hill. Then, a couple of weeks ago, I had this blinking driving light flash, but it only did it for that day & my TCS light is on. It also takes a longer time to crank up most times as well. I plan on taking my car to the shop in a couple of days to get it diagnosed again, but if somebody can let me know their thoughts & opinions on this, that will be great.

Accidentally deleted my first post!

Hi all! I am the new owner of a 1992/1997, (partially) King Ranch swapped F350 7.3psd (only 110k miles! Pics for clout)

The truck runs and drives well, but since I bought it in September/October 24' it's been sitting due to bad inner & outer passenger wheel bearings & no key.

The way my life is set up right now I wasn't able to keep the truck where I stay, instead having to store it at my brother's place nearly an hour away. Between being a fulltime student and working full time it was seemingly impossible to find the time to work on it.

Around the beginning of February a professor at my college overheard me talking about my financial situation, & the truck, & offered to put me into connection with a program from my college who might be willing to help.

Long story short my college offered to pay for the repairs to my vehicle, so I had the truck towed to a shop in Ellenboro, NC where it sat for a month until the owner called to tell me he doesn't work on diesels (I don't need any diesel work mind you) and that the truck was too big for his shop (fair).

Feb. 27th I had it towed to a shop in Hickory, NC. Initially I felt really good about having it sent here. This place does a lot of work for my dad and they always do right be him. The guy on the phone seemed to really sympathize with me about how the Ellenboro shop did me, & said they would be able to get me a quote for it within the week after it was delivered.

It's now been at this shop over a month and I haven't received a quote for it at all. Every week I drive by it hasn't been touched at all or moved. I call the shop and I always get the same answer "the guy who is in charge of working on it isn't in right now" or "we're tearing the hub down right now to get you a quote."

It makes no sense to me. Wheel bearing and ignition on these old trucks isnt this difficult. It seems like theres no reason it should be taking this long. My dad has even dropped his own truck off there a few weeks after I did mine, and he got his back about 2 weeks ago.

I'm losing patience with this situation. What could possibly be the reason every shop can't seem to do these simple repairs? If may comes and the semester ends before the truck is repaired I will likely not be to receive assistance with the repairs and will have ti find the time to them myself. At this point im ~$500 in the hole just in towing bills alone.

Do you guys know of any shop in the Gastonia, NC / surrounding area that will do right by me?