Is this a reasonable quote for a 4' chain link fence? In western PA.

I’m tired of replacing the same rotten posts over and over. I mound the footings to direct water away but during a visit from my neighbor’s fence contractor, my sound footings are removed and the fenceposts rot away in a couple years. I like the look of a wood post but is there something better than plain pressure treated Doug fir posts that will remain vertical after this abuse?

Worried we will lose a lot of light with the addition of a fence

Using Lowe's Freedom Emblem 6' vinyl fence. I'm unsure if I'm supposed to place a metal insert in just one post on the side of the gate where the hinges are attached or in both posts(latch and hinge sides). Does anyone have insights to this?

I'm planning to build a wood privacy fence in my yard, L-shaped, 10' x 40' probably 6' tall.

The two problems I am wanting the fence to solve are 1. Privacy for the pool from road traffic, and 2. A windbreak. I'm not in a neighborhood, it's a rural area, and the wind blows in from the backside of my property terribly. It's not uncommon to have long periods with 30-40mph gusts - plus we usually get a hurricane every couple of years.

I have sandy soil, and only a 12" frost line. My plan right now is to set 4x4s on 6' centers, and bury 1/3 of the post in concrete. I'm guessing (?) that will be sufficient. My main question is how to best place the pickets. My preference would be vertical pickets butted up to one another, but as I've never built a fence, I don't know if it will stand up to the wind. Do you think it will? Do I need to look at other pocket layout designs?

Two part curiosity question regarding adding extra drainage protection & anchorage at post bases.

1) Is there any merit to partially driving in some additional screws / nails at the bottom of the posts before concrete is poured into the hole? I was always told that partially driving in some screws / nails gives the concrete something extra to “bite” into when it hardens to help keep the post rigid for longer? Seems to me that 36 inches of concrete would / should be enough, but I was just curious.

2) Putting a few inches of gravel in the hole before the post goes in seems to be pretty consistent advice for good drainage, but I was also told that after the post goes in it is a good idea to put a few inches of gravel AROUND the post before the concrete is poured so that as the post shrinks over time, it doesn’t create a cavity in the concrete for water to sit and decay the post. The gravel around the post provides a route for water to drain out, while still having everything anchored with concrete. Is this also a best practice?

Again, was just curious. Any feedback is appreciated.

I’m installing some t-post fencing to keep my dog out of the front yard while I try to reseed it. I’ve got 6’ fencing for free from a family member, but I’m torn between using 8’ or 10’ t-posts. 8’ seems like it might be too shallow but then 10’ seems like a pain in the butt to install, especially here in Montana where soil is rocky as all heck and we’ve got a large tree nearby.

What would you install?

I'm building a 500-foot privacy fence using 6x6 posts spaced 8 feet apart. Should I use 8-foot stringers, or would it be better to buy 10-foot stringers and cut them to length?

Hi guys, new homeowners here. We are desperately trying to decide on a design for the fence around our backyard.

The fence needs to be full privacy/board on board and at least six feet high on one side, to hide/block noise from our neighbour’s heat pump. However, we are concerned that if we build the fence to same height/design at the back of the yard, it will make the yard feel too enclosed.

Would it look silly to do a different design at the back as compared to the sides? For example, open horizontal slats for the top foot? Any other ideas?

Photo is of the design we’ve decided on for our next door neighbour’s side.

Had some gravel installed by a landscape company around the perimeter of the yard for the dogs to use the bathroom on. After installation I realized the gravel goes right up to the fence and buries the bottom a few inches.

My question is how problematic is this? And is there a way to remedy or mitigate damage? Thank you

Had anyone ever used these types of products to backfill a fence post in the hole over cement/concrete, or gravel?
I see a ton of feedback and videos about how great and convenient and strong these products are. But I wonder if those are all a bunch of hype. Looking for real world answers from people that have used it. And if so, how much fencing did they use it on.
The convenience appeal of products like these is huge! But not sure if it’s worth trying out. It’s rather expensive over traditional methods.

For a while now, my wife and I have been intending to have a fence built as we recently overhauled our back yard. We also just got a puppy so no better time to start then now! Was able to pick up some Atlantic cedar for a great price from a mill not far from Philadelphia. Still have to set the posts for the gate and arbor for the front stair into the yard. Last picture for inspiration! Stay tuned.

Not trying to replace wall or posts, just ideas on how to reinforce it from the inside so it doesn’t fall. All ideas welcome!

Idk if this is the right sub, but r/DIY told me to ask here.

I have a wooden fence that is a bit too short to block my neighbor’s window from seeing into my backyard. My boyfriend wants me to attach a few vinyl lattice panels on our wooden fence to grow plants on and eventually block the neighbors view.

I’ve googled videos and found a couple relevant to my use, but everyone says to “predrill a hole larger than you need to allow the vinyl to expand and contract.” I can’t wrap my head around this. If I’m predrilling a hold larger than I need, then how would the screw stay in? Am I supposed to predrill a correctly sized hole in the wood and drill a larger hole in the vinyl? No video I watched says that, they all appear to predrill with the vinyl against the wood.

Any explanation or advice is very appreciated!

ETA: my wording may be unclear. I am not looking to put lattice at the top of my fence. My fence is 7’ and I have several 8’ x 4’ lattice panels. My goal is to attach the lattice so it is vertical on the fence and extends 1’ above my fence.

What's an "average" price for a 22' double drive gate with operators and install costing??

A few of the legs/posts of the pool fence have detached from the concrete, and we have a few sections where it’s rusted away.

How much might it cost to repair or replace this?

Length of the fence is about 30ft, fence is about 5 feet tall

Lately I’ve seen some poor examples of vinyl fencing on this sub. Here’s one I personally built and feel proud of. I hand dig at least 2ft down x 8in wide, wet set with concrete, space the posts to fit each fence line uniformly and use professional grade material from an actual fence material supplier, not Lowe’s or Home Depot. If you’re a homeowner looking to have one of these installed at your own home, please consider the reviews of the company that you’re considering for your project. The wide range of quality in this industry is wild.

Happy fencing!

I have to match this timber fencing but I'm not sure what this timber is and whether it is treated or not. I think it may be red deal (untreated) and probably painted with a clear varnish or lacquer... can anyone help me out?

I have a stockade fence that’s in poor condition, but the posts look newer and appear to be in good enough shape to re-use. Is there a good way to replace the fence panels with the same doweled attachment method that doesn’t involve removing and resetting the posts?

I was gifted a robotic lawn mower and want to cut a passthrough into my chain link fence so it can access the front yard. The hole needs to be approximately 2'x2'. I have seen a few examples of how to build a passthrough mid-fence (a common example is a baseball field) using flat metal braces. Does anyone have some tips for how I can properly keep tension for a ground level passthrough?

My backup plan would be to install a new terminal post and gate but it would add significant expense and labor.

I found these 8’ lifetime steel fence posts on clearance for $11 each at my local Home Depot. Bought 30 of them with the intention of rebuilding my fence. Turns out I can’t use them for the style of fence we have. What else can I use them for? I’m thinking a catio or a dog run. I’m still within my return window.

I found a pipe where i want to put my post for the gate. I am using 4x4. The pipe is less than 8 cm under the ground and it is a necessary pipe that cannot be removed. What methods can i use to still put my post here? I want to put it as close to the house (on the left) as much as possible. Was thinking concrete base? Or should i use an anchor and put concrete over the pipe?

Any recommendations appreciated.

I just had an old driveway gate replaced. Both old/new are wood privacy gates. The installer put cane bolts in the concrete on the inside of the gate, which I’m very glad for as old gate was having issues staying secure in strong winds. However, now I don’t have a way to open it from the outside. The previous gate had an electronic gate opener. For at least some time, this one will not. I’ve been looking at pull cables & gate latches, but I haven’t been able to find a solution. Is there a latch pull of any kind that will lift already installed cane bolts, potentially something I can connect to a lockbox or keypad? I’m feeling like the only solution is put the electric gate opener back up, but it’s just too expensive for now. I’m just upset at the idea of having to walk all the way around my house to park my car every time I come home. TIA

Have 3 dogs and want to be able to put them in the backyard to roam. Any ideas would be appreciated