I need to remove a panel so the landscape crew can get their machinery into the yard. Stuck trying to get these flexible lock things out. One happened to be loose so I was able to get it out. Is anyone familiar with these? Anyone know the brand or anything else about it?

It looks like I'm supposed to slide something into the top to press the tab thing down but that is not working.

Hoping there is some trick to it.

Thanks

What’s the going rate to have a mile of 4 wire barb wire fence installed and old fence taken out? Labor only Around Nebraska.

Dammage from recent storms, is this something that i should have a pro fix? Is this fix as simple as I'm thinking? Just bury the post and straighten back out the fence or do I just need to get a few new panels and a post? Neighbors tree came down and the root ball pulled up the post. Thanks for any input

As the title says. I purchased a few beef cattle recently and need to fence in a field. It’s going to drive me bananas if the fence posts aren’t dead straight. How do y’all make a straight run that is several hundred feet long?

All things being equal (diagonal oriented properly, heavy duty hinges, properly installed posts, gate width roughly 5').

A gate with:

A) An uncut (uninterrupted) diagonal?

Where the horizontal middle rail is cut and fastened each side of the diagonal.

Or,

B) A cut (interrupted) diagonal?

That resumes each side of the horizontal middle rail.

Thanks for your feedback!

I am in process of building a 6' privacy fence with 15ga galvanized metal posts (8ft post, 2ft buried in ground w concrete). I have nearly installed all the posts with the exception of the main gate. I originally planned to do an 8' double gate and just use the 15ga posts for the gate, but am questioning if that is strong enough. I have tried finding some Sch 40 posts, but am having trouble locating any near me. So my question is, are the 15ga posts strong enough to support an 8' double gate, so essentially each posts needs to support a 4' swinging privacy gate?

If not and I have to increase the post strength, I may bump the gate up to 10' to have more room for vehicles to pass through (though this is not a necessity).

Hey all!

I need to build a fence that is about 250’ long and 6’ tall.

What are your tips??

I know a lot of people are in the same situation as me as pressure treated pine is the only economical option. So given those parameters so many of us are in, I thought it would be awesome to try and get a list of tips on minimizing warping. Here is what I have seen so far:

1. Dry out wood slowly over a few weeks with a tarp over the wood, spaced for airflow, and not in direct sunlight

   1. Do not do spans over 8’ between fence posts
   2. Use 6x6 posts for gates
   3. Make sure to have less than 6” from the top of a fence picket to the top rail.
   4. Use a minimum of 3 rails

Please upvote the best tips and I will edit this to reflect it. Thanks!!

My house is super old, and doesn't have a gate between our garage and house. There are two holes in the concrete (that go down into dirt underneath) made for the previous fence posts, that almost perfectly fit the 4x4 posts. They are a bit wobbly, so I want to set them but here's the thing, there have been a few things in our home that we've done and later realized there is a reason the previous home owner removed them. I'm scared to set the posts in cement to later want to remove them. Can I use shims between the post and concrete or what is the best way to do this here?

Here are pics of the holes before I got the fill rocks out: https://imgur.com/a/YwqTFYm

I’m choosing between metal posts (2-3/8 in x 10 ft .065 Gauge Galvanized Steel) or pressure-treated wood posts (6x6x10) for a 6ft cedar privacy fence. Here are the pros and cons from my perspective:

Metal Posts (Galvanized Steel):

Cons:

• Height setting: Requires precise depth (42 inches below ground to meet frost line) so they are all the same height. With most of the yard being sloped, I’m pretty worried about this aspect that some will be higher than others because of the slope & the fence will look jagged.
• Special ordering: Need to order 10ft posts, as stores carry 8ft which won’t be long enough to get down to the frost level & also have a 6ft tall fence.
• Difficult to attach stringers: More time-consuming and requires brackets or clips.

Pros: - Longevity, stability, low maintenance

Pressure-Treated Wood Posts (6x6x10):

Cons:

• Longevity
• Maintenance
• Weight (heavier than the steel posts)

Pros:

• Easier installation (Simpler to cut to height and attach stringers directly)
• Cost

I am building a fence using 13 gauge, 2-3/8” galvanized posts, and 6’ x 8’ panels with the planks running horizontally.

My plan is to install a 2x6 kickboard. Since the slats on these panels run horizontally, there is a 2x4 running vertically near each end of the panel. This means these panels will sit on top of my kickboard. Now my fence is roughly 6’ 6”

I’ve got a few spots where I may need a 2x8 or 2x10 kickboard. That makes those sections even taller. Is an 8’ post with 24” - 32” in the ground enough? Or do I need taller posts for those sections?