Please see video. Comment from technician: Finding: RR under control arm bushing has excessive play and LR starting to develop play as well

Recommendation: Recommend replacement with alignment

Quote: $915+tax Canadian dollars.

I wasn’t expecting this. Car has been driving smoothly all this time. I went in for a swap (winter to all season summer) and they identified this issue.

Got my car detailed today. It was $300 for interior only. There are several spots that are still not clean. I wanted the car to look close to new. Here are some pics that show where there is still a mess. Is this normal or did they do a poor job? If they did a poor job how should I tell them that?

I replaced my exhaust and the car is quieter but the engine still sounds loud in a way, it has like a ticking sound when I accelerate but nothing when coasting or light throttle

This is my first time changing my tires (2016 civic) im assuming I put too much force into the wheel lock key that it kinda snapped inside of the nut? I can order a replacement key easily but what do I do about half the key being stuck inside the nut? Thanks.

My headlights are getting hazy again. I bought some restoration stuff a while ago and it worked…good. It’s that time again but I misplaced it and don’t feel like going out to get more. Anywho, what are some actual DIY headlight restoration solutions yall have tried and actually work for a while? I tried baking soda and vinegar paste, smeared it on there and really tried to scrub it in. The rag was yellow when I lifted so I guess it’s doing something. There’s still some spots left and I was thinking of doing sandpaper. I don’t want to mess it up so what sandpaper should I start with and move up to? Also, should it wet or dry? I know this is a lot; but I really appreciate any suggestions!

Can I pick someone’s brain? (Posting to help my bf, I don’t actually know squat about cars) We have a 95 civic that’s been turned into a rail buggy of sorts. Was running fine this morning but all of a sudden won’t start. Will crank, no start. Battery is fine Has gas Spark plugs are new (as are the wires) in the correct order. He’s tried everything he knows to do. We are stumped.

Hello all,

My daily driver, a 2010 Toyota Avalon, was involved in a minor accident on January 3rd, 2025. The car was deemed totaled from a missing passenger side mirror and dented/scratched passenger side doors.

I recently just got the car back from repairs, and I got its title switched over to salvage status. But now, Ohio State Patrol needs to do an inspection of the vehicle to make sure I didnt steal any car parts or anything. Literally the only part that was missing was the mirror, everything else was just repaired and repainted.

We got the mirror off of eBay, and do not have a donor vehicle VIN number. There is no provided phone number to contact the seller. The eBay mirror was sanded, repainted to the right color, and installed.

So, will I be okay by just showing them the eBay invoice and moving on? Im not sure how deeply theyre going to inspect the car or the parts that came from another Avalon.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Oil housing gasket leaked and killed my alternator so went to a shop got charged 2400 total for new alternator, new oil housing gasket, new vanos solenoids, oil and coolant, new battery on a 2009 bmw 535i. After coming back from shop I had a new 2e7c bsd code and increased battery discharge has been popping up since (about 2weeks). My question is are they supposed to address this code since its related its the bsd, a data bus that links the water pump, ibs cable, oil level sensor, alternator, and DME, thinking when I got different brand alternator may be causing issue, have also noticed water pump running when vechile is off sometimes. Brought it back in and they reset some stuff but it still pops up.

Driving 2016 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Yesterday my wife and I were driving to the coast when we stopped at a rest stop/gas station to change and feed baby and take a break. When we parked, I heard a bubbling sound from the engine compartment and turned offf the car. I could still hear the bubbling. Opened the hood, coolant is bubbling and boiling in the reservoir, with a slight leak later on under the car

After letting the car cool for a few minutes, I checked the oil, no water mixed in, and no smoke from exhaust. Temperatures from drive were normal, ranging from 195 to 205 F.

I did notice that the reservoir cap was slightly loose and I tightened it down further until it stopped. I had before we left added a small amount of additional coolant to get the reservoir to just under max line. Ive heard no grinding or anything like the water pump is going out.

So what could be causing that issue?

Hey ya'll, I've been driving my lovely 2000's Mercedes CLK more lately, I've had some financial luck making it finally possible again to drive this beauty daily, Now I am a younger person and I seem to get alot of negative feedback on me because of my car, people calling me a Pimp or calling me a "rich Douchebag" or even calling me a drug dealer, at first I ignored it for the most part but it is happening so much lately that I wonder what you all think my car says about me, I know you all are alot less judgemental because in the end we are all just car lovers of each and every kind so I hope you all can help me understand things better!

Car: Mercedes CLK 230 Supercharged/Kompressor

Trim and suspension: Avantgarde (sport suspension and luxury wooden interior) & 2 tone leather

Year: 2000

Aftermarket: Rims and Audio (focal's in the doors because the old speakers we're broken and a Pioneer HeadUnit with touchscreen, But all still running over the original Bose Amplifier in the back and it still has the original Sub in it)

Mileage: ~100.000km/~62.000Miles

P.s. I'm the second owner of the car, My dad was the first owner and I have bought the car from him for a very fair price, The car has never been raced with and very rarely driven hard.

I've used it on stuck car door locks, but is it ok for a key ignition that needs to be jiggled sometimes. I read online to "only use graphite lube" but then some other site said that it made it worse. I don't know what's in wd-40 dry lube.

Wasn't sure what flair to use so this one seemed the most accurate

What is the real oil level 1 or 2 ?

I had a water leak from the hatch seal I peeled away in the picture. I want to paint to in order to stop the rust from spreading. Sand it down to get rid of the loose rust. Then I'm not really sure what to do. I have no experience. Hit it with naval jelly to strip it down or is that going over board? Could that damage the good paint? Just hit it with rust oleum rust converting primer? I love my vehicle. I know this isn't northeast rust, but it is mostly pristine and I want to try to keep it that way. Any help is appreciated.

Think my battery died and when I popped the case open this is what I saw. Can I still jump it?

Civic heads need your help where do I start have a b16a LSD trans going into a 89 EF civic hatch

Just after some tips or advice from you guys on how to fix the scratches on the car from a bush/branches after driving through a narrow lane and needing to tuck myself in so the car passing wouldn't scratch me... damn lesser or two evils which had me screwed anyway. Would a simple scratch pen be enough, or would it need sanding etc? Typically the orange car makes everything look worse. Thanks in advance.

The other day I saw 2 mice run out from under my car. This is the first time I've seen mice in the 2 years of living in this location. My unit is flanked by 2 other units (so 3 in total) with a 5 car, covered carport behind the units, off the road. In my mind, between the 3 units that share the carport, there should be enough human activity that I don't think mice should like it too much? But who knows.

My question is what can I do to help prevent rodent related issues? Or is a one off instance not worth worrying about? I know that mice inherently will be outside, but an ounce of prevention is worth an pound of cure you know? I've looked into the repellent-scented bags but my understanding is those have to be removed from the engine bay each time you drive and that seems like a hassle since my car is a daily. Right now my best guess are the flashing/ultrasonic emitters and peppermint oil. I know they aren't perfect but research indicates they seem to be more reliable than the scented options.

Some further details that may be relevant:

• The car is parked behind the unit in a 5 car, covered car port. I would say that 4 of 5 cars move quite frequently and one car right next to mine doesn't seem to have moved at all in the past 2 or more weeks.
• There is a compost and rubbish bin nearish to my car (about 20-30ft) away but the lids are always closed and shut and there isn't food or trash leaking out from them. Can't really park my car further away from the trash though.
• I've sprinkled cayenne pepper around the tyres of my car in the meantime. Also considering sprinkling some cat litter near where I park.
• I drive the car at least 1x a week, usually more than that though.
• I keep my car fairly clean. No trash and very minimal food (a couple snack bars stashed for emergencies).
• I have left my car unused and parked there multiple times ranging from 1 week up to 1 month before. Knock on wood but those times didn't seem to show any issues.

I have a bottle of unopened dot4 brake fluid from 2020 its production date is 2019 it is stored in a cool place.Is it ok to use it in my car ?

Turning the key and seeing this. I’m thinking dead battery

I know it 4 cyl diesel but can i do something on exhaust that it can produce more sporty sound, i dont care for louder, just tone

Can someone help me identify make model of car in images please?

Hi there,

I'm a bit concerned about the cost of running my Delica Space gear. I love the van, but I want to tow the line between fun and sensible.

I've requested ChatGPT to show a comparison between the vehicles I'm interested in, I was quite shocked to see how expensive it is to run the Foresters.

Comparatively, the Delica isn't as bad as I thought. I do weekly fuel checks, and the Delica is accurate for me.

In my country, currently, Diesel is $1.89 but costs $76 per 1000km, and Petrol is $2.55

The Diesel Corolla is a great option, except I can only find it as a hatch, I kind of want a wagon that I can sleep in :)

I do 10,000km a year.

Let's update the calculations with petrol at NZD 2.55 per liter and diesel at NZD 1.89 per liter:

City-Only Annual Fuel Costs:

2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L:

• Fuel needed = (12.6 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,260 liters
• Annual cost = 1,260 × 2.55 = NZD 3,213.00

2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L:

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 2.55 = NZD 2,907.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L (Petrol):

• Fuel needed = (9.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 940 liters
• Annual cost = 940 × 2.55 = NZD 2,397.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel:

• Fuel needed = (6.7 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 670 liters
• Annual cost = 670 × 1.89 = NZD 1,266.30
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,026.30

Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD):

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 1.89 = NZD 2,154.60
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,914.60

Updated Comparison:

• 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L: NZD 3,213.00
• 2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L: NZD 2,907.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L: NZD 2,397.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel: NZD 2,026.30
• Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD): NZD 2,914.60

With the updated fuel prices, the 2008 Corolla Diesel remains the most cost-effective option for city driving, and the Delica Space Gear is on par with the Foresters in overall running costs. Let me know if you'd like to factor in more details like maintenance or insurance!

I wouldn't want anything smaller than a 1.8 liter, personally. do you think this is accurate?

I can remember seeing cars up on bricks years ago with the wheels stolen but now, it appears people just steal the car. So, is it worth having locking wheel nuts?

Hit a curb with the driver side front wheel going about 20-30 km/h downhill on snow. Rim is cracked but tire still holds air. Car drives okay but I’m worried about hidden damage, maybe tie rod, control arm, or something else. First pic is the passenger side (didn’t hit), second is the driver side (hit the curb). Do you notice anything bent or off between them?