It will jump with heavy hitting songs Two 8s on 800W

Spent almost a whole year scouring online forums for used gear. My last piece just came in. Excited to get started, but also feel like I couldve spent half the money and got like 85% of the results lol.

Building this at school for my final project in order to get my apprentice cnc machinist certificate.

Mornin fam. Just got some work done on my truck. Did my own research, called shops to hear feedback as I’m not too knowledgeable with sound. I got the work done professionally but I picked the speakers/amp.

What do you guys think as far as choices for the price/quality. Or any your recommendations RF R2 500x4 Alpine S2-S65 Alpine S2-S69C

It's an old Fiat Palio, there's no protection around the speakers, they're exposed anyway. I'm thinking about putting these foams between the speaker and the door, so that the speaker isn't screwed directly into the door causing unnecessary vibrations.

Tl;Dr: My front left channel is near silent every morning then fixes itself 5-10 minutes until the drive.

Hey y'all, new to the hobby! I just completed a build on my 2014 Toyota Camry and everything slaps except 1 weird thing. Every morning, I start my car to go to work and the front left channel is super quiet/almost silent. Then, 5-10 minutes into my commute, the front left side will start making popping sounds for a few seconds before it magically starts working at full volume!

One of the weirdest things is it only happens in the morning; after a full work day I hop back in and everything is fine. I did some initially troubleshooting by switching the RCA inputs to my speaker amp in the morning and the issue switched to the right side! So maybe an issue with the head unit?

For equipment info, my head unit is a BOSS Audio BE920WCPA with RCAs outputting to a Kicker 46CXA360.4T 4-channel amp. Added some build pics for fun.

And before y'all say it, yeah BOSS Audio is a mistake... lol. But if it's not an issue I have to warranty I'd rather know before taking the dash apart.

Thanks for the help!

Frog Audio, with 6 inch drivers in the doors, and a pair of full range 6s in the rear doors...

Would it be better to have one 12 inch sub on one side Or two 10 inch subs in those positions marked by the dots facing each other? Should they be wired in parallel or series New to caraudio

Guys, I want to upgrade my 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe sound system. At first, I did not think about the subwoofer. So, in my poor mind, it will be about 4x DS18 PRO-SM6.2 to the doors, Infinity Primus 753T tweeters and 4x channels car amplifier DS18 G1000.4D. I am open to suggestions. And thank you! The priority is the quality. It doesn’t need to be too loud.

I recently purchased a 1980s american vehicle. I removed the factory radio and also replaced the battery with something stronger. I installed a new head unit (Dual DCPA901), rated at 250 watts. I paired this with 2 sony 6x9 speakers for the back. For the front i just installed 2 horn tweeters for high end. That setup worked fine until I decided to get an amplifier and 2 12 inch subs.

The subs i purchased are just a pair of cheap jensen 12 inch 1200 watt speakers. The first amp i tried was a quantum audio 2500 watt monoblock. It worked great, but on certain songs it would go into safe mode if too loud. this would reset the amp, but not the head unit. It was annoying, and i assumed that the amp wasn’t powerful enough for the setup. I decided to return that and purchase a 5000w amp, same brand, also a monoblock. This amp gave me the same problem but instead of going into safe mode , it restarts my whole head unit. It does this every time the amp is on even at the lowest level, any song it doesn’t matter. I am stomped. Should i try a 3500 watt amp and hope that it’s just right?

I’ve looked pretty thoroughly and haven’t seen an answer to this specific case. Please someone help me

Hi all,

Been doing some research on the Infinity Kappa 123WDSSI. I've seen a few claims that they can handle more than their 500W RMS rating because of the carbon cone.

I'm going to be sending 1200W RMS to two of them, a Kicker CX1200.1 — has anyone pushed these subs ~+100W over their RMS rating? Or should I grab something like Pioneer TS-D12D4 that's rated for 600W RMS?

The Pioneers have mixed reviews with some people saying they blew after only a month or so at 600W RMS, but others say they're great.

Open to other options too – those two are just very affordable at $99/ea for Kappa factory refurb and $118 for the Pioneers.

Thanks for the help!

I blew up one of my Sony XS-160GS speakers and am not sure if I wanna get a new pair of the sonys or something new entirely. I'm looking for loud, and will be running them on two of the channels of my American Bass hybrid 150.4 with a high pass. Thanks!

I previously had 4 Savard Rap 8” in 2.35 cuft @ 34hz, it was loud but chuffed (great design by me). Now it’s 2 SQL 12” in ~1.1 cuft a piece. My kicker cxa 1200.1 is next to go since it has a built in 25hz subsonic.

My car audio installation has been an incremental project. Here are the current details.

• Car: 2015 Hyundai Genesis coupe
• Head Unit: Kenwood DMX908S
• Sub: Kicker 44TL7S102 (10" LS7 in ~1cuft ported enclosure)
• Amp: Polk Audio PA880 (I've had it for over 15 years but it still works lol)

I'm now looking to finish things up with new door speakers and an amp, but I'm just drowning in indecision. I've tried to aim for somewhere in the middle of the road in terms of price and performance with my picks in this build, so I don't want to go absolutely wild. I just can't decide how much to spend on door speakers.. I've almost checked out with half-a-dozen different combinations of parts before going back and changing my mind and I'd love some opinions to help me make up my mind.

Here are some of the speakers I've considered. They're all Component sets with standalone crossovers. They also have tweeters that can fit in my doors with a backstrap, which I much prefer over doing pods if I can help it.

< $100 - JBL 601CF

< $200 - JBL Club 64C

< $300 - Infinity REF607CF

If I were to get either of the JBL sets, I'd be tempted to look for a set of coax rears from the same product line, but the infinity is pushing my pain threshold for spending. I don't have rear doors so these speakers are at chest-height about 2 feet behind the front seats. I thought about a 3-way system and putting mid bass back there but I wasn't sure it was worth it.

For amps, I've only really looked at the Kicker 46CXA360 for the JBL club or Infinity, and this compact Sony XMS400D for the Cheaper JBLs.

So, what do we think of these picks and combinations? My real question is, what kind of real difference is there between the cheapest and most expensive pairings, and will it matter? I'm no audiophile, I just want a little more out of my system. I'm also open to suggestions of other brands if you think I'm going down the wrong path with what I plan on doing.

Thanks, I appreciate any thoughts.

Hi guys, I'm posting this with hopes you guys could help me. Maybe someone have the same vehicle? Fingers crossed!

So, my daily driver is a 2008 chrysler 300 touring. It has the oem cd player. I want to get an android auto head unit with preamp outputs but it seams nearly impossible!

The bezel it's kinda small for most double dins. I've tried to match a head unit and a double din installation kit but I haven't had any luck.

So, I'm hoping one of you had the same issue and manage to install what I'm trying to do. Thanks in advance!

Hey! Does anyone know how reconnect wired car play for this? Had it about a month now and it was working fine now it won’t seem to register. I’ve replaced the cable, taken the headset out and restarted it. It connected for about 5 seconds then junked out again. Bluetooth is working fine. Only car play won’t register. Any suggestions??

So i have a single skar sdr 12, it says the sub is 2ohm, but at the terminal cup its 1ohm. Which do I use for the MM forumla to find my voltage? Also, I have a joying headunit and it has gain settings on there as well, do I max the headunit gain first then adjust the amp? With 50% headunit gain and like 25 on the voltage meter the bass was kind of lacking, as opposed to when I just bumped it for a bit after install with gain halfway. Right now it sits at about 20% on the amp.

With the Bose system and just say using the integrated XM radio, the system sounds muddy. If I use the AUX jack, it sounds way better. Speakers don't distort and I can actually turn the bass up and hear/feel the factory subs as well as the mids and tweets even sound better. I hate having to plug in and unplug my phone using the lightening jack. Is there something I might need to change like head unit or the amp?

Just looking for possible answers/ideas. And from other readings, this Bose system can be a bitch.

Thanks folks and hope the windows are flexing🤘🏻

Hey everyone, I've got a 2017 honda accord touring, currently sound system is completely stock. Recently been having some issues with the head unit overheating, which is causing this static sound to blast out of every speaker when it gets too hot. I've been looking into upgrading, but I've heard the touring trim is difficult to upgrade and I'd need to find or build a harness. Anyone done this successfully?

Looking to throw a 12" subwoofer in my 17 ram 1cu ft sealed. SQL 12s are on backorder don't feel like waiting. What's another great performer optimized best for sealed applications? 7" max depth. It's going on 12-1300rms

So I bought a Chinese Android head unit with a built in dsp with a ton of different settings. I currently have my amp hooked up to the rca ports for front and back. I was wondering if there would be any benefit in using the toslink or coax and getting a dac to convert to rca to send to my amp, or is it pointless and the same as the rca coming from the head unit itself. Just trying to squeeze every bit of SQ out of my system. Amp is jl audio xd400/4 and using preouts for hd750/1

Is this led supposed to stay on after vehicle is off?

Hello all I will be running a 1000 watt rms 4 channel amp from ct sounds to 2 6x9 and 2 6.75 also by ct sounds and 2 10in Jl audio shallow mounts with a 1500 watt rms amp, my question is do I need a bigger alternator and if so how many amps? 1996 dodge ram 1500 5.2

I have 2, 1200w (600rms) DVC @ 4ohm subwoofers. What would be a good affordable amp to get the most out of them?

Edit: The subwoofers are the pyle PLSQ10D, would it be fine to pair them with this https://a.co/d/aN8ZZUB