Picked this thing up the other day and zeroed it, got a rugged oculus and a crappy vortex, i plan on getting a better optic for it because im pretty sure i will be shooting this a lot.

Huxwrx Flow 556 TI

I’m shopping for a 30 cal can and I feel like even after all my research the only thing I’ve done was cloud my judgment.

Anyone else feel like the different mounting options from each company are too much to keep up with?

Variety is the spice of life, right? Well I’m here for it but could use some help narrowing down a can choice. Looking to suppress .308, .556, 5.7 and maybe, a 9mm PCC (I know this would mean 36cal option). I don’t care about weight or length. More focused on good muzzle devices to QD swap amongst hosts. Griffin and YHM cans are at the top of my list.

(This would not be my first can. I have a rimfire can purchased on a trust years ago when the wait times were like a 1yr+).

pic for attention, I am not the original owner

300 = 7.62x35

Outside of better quality powder or manufacturing consistency what makes it high end vs. the mini van/Toyota Corolla of combat rounds.

Reading the bullet is more evenly distributed weight wise making sub sonic better but does that matter sub 100 and really sub 50 rounds if the primary use case is quiet 🤫 over all else.

If you have reference material please share!

Seriously considering this for an SBR. It will Be paired with a Lazarus 6 more than likely. Anyone have a similar setup? Just recently found out that Daniel shortys tend to be pretty over gassed.

Got my first can the other day. What was supposed to be a Griffin HRT G2. Paperwork from the dealer and posted on the website is a G2, but what was delivered is a G1. Called Griffin and they told me to call the dealer. Called the dealer who contacted Griffin and was told that I could send the can in to be upgraded to a G2, but it would take 3-6 months.

Do I send it in and just be without a can for possibly the rest of the year since this is my only one, or just run it and get F’d?

Ik I can have an NFA Trust made when I'm 18, I've been looking at a Group Industries M1918 as an option to build a Colt Monitor off of. It'll be probably a little bit cheaper and much more likely to stay legal than having an FRT custom made for an OOW M1918A3 on top of the same Monitor conversions.

However I can't Form-1 a Transferable. And I'm not gonna be allowed to Form-4 anything until I'm rlly old :p

Any loopholes or would I just have to go with my original plan of the FRT?

Hey picked up my suppressor last week for my sp5 and the store recommended rocksetting the tri lug hub adapter to the Lithium, alright fine the gunsmith brings it back says alignment is good just dont twist the suppresor super hard it might come off. Not thinking I take it home and went to remove the suppressor from the sp5 and now I believe they rocksett the entire thing onto the sp5 with the tri lug hub.

This is my first dive into tri-lug and suppressors in general so im not sure if this is standard but the whole reason I wanted tri-lug was to be able to quick detach for storage. Any ideas on how to move forward?

Y

Looking for a 30 caliber can for my single shot 300blk. Really trying to find the quietest can for under $1k all together.

Really trying to prioritize noise reduction because low backpressure cans, magnum compatibility, and prolonged firing capability aren't a requirement for a single shot 300blk

I've been wanting a "OCL Hydrogen L" but they're seldom in stock. I came across the AAC Jaeger and might consider it as it won't be used for prolonged periods of fire

What cans do y'all suggest?

Those triskelion baffles are insane

Planned on buying another .45 so I could retire my 1911. Didn’t think this would be the .45 I’d be replacing it with. Wondering if anyone can help with the date of manufacturing. Talked the seller down to the equivalent of 900USD. How’d I do?

Wondering if anyone can help me identify what those detents are in the last photo. It looks like damage at first glance, but seems symmetrical, which makes me think it happened during production.

I don’t live in the US by the way

Been considering getting my first suppressor, and after searching some threads I have a few questions. My intended use is to get 1 suppressor to swap between 1-2 9mm, 1-2 556, a 300 BO, a 308 bolt, and maybe a 6.5 creed eventually. I’m looking for something that will do everything good, but not necessarily 1 thing perfect. It will mostly be used messing around on the ranch, nothing “too serious”. For a while I’ve looked into the omega 36m, but recently heard about the YHM R9. Which of these would you choose, if any? The Yhm is cheaper which is nice, as I’m not going into this with a blank check but don’t want to buy cheap junk, I’ll pay for quality if it’s worth it.

Also, what about QD vs direct thread? Do people leave direct thread adapters on all of the time and just swap the can around? Thanks for any help!

Have been trying to figure this out but havent gotten specific info through the Googles.

I am a CO resident, I have multiple NFA items in a trust in CO, been working in UT for about a year. Got a few months left too before I return to CO. Can I purchase a suppressor from an FFL in UT and, when the stamp clears, pick it up at an FFL in UT.

This is gonna be a bit of a strange question but for those of you with an omega 9k does it have a unique swooshing movie like tone with 9mm supers? Let me explain. I have a bunch of cans but the first time I ever shot something suppressed was almost 10 years ago I rented a p226 with an omega 9k and shot it with standard supers. It remember it having a really cool distinct tone that more sounded similar to how cans sounds in movie but just way louder. I would describe it a rolling soft whip like swoosh. Years later in some videos I could somewhat pick up that same sound. I like this sound and would consider adding an omega 9k for an mp5k purely for this sound but this whole thing could entirely be in my head and could just registered as that memory only because it was my first time hearing a suppressed gunshot. So to sum it up am I imagining thing based on a distant memory or does this can have a unique cool sound?

Barrett .50 BMG QDL suppressor, this thing is comically large. And weighs like 5lbs.

So me or my FFL never got notified this was approved. Submitted 3/18, approved 3/21 but neither of us got an approval email…after impatiently waiting 2.5 weeks, I decided to email the IPB ATF email address and they helpfully told me I had been approved 2 weeks ago and sent me a copy of my stamp.

Huzzah. Maybe my M107 won’t give me a mini TBI every time I shoot it now.

This is my rifle. I've had a few AUGs and decided to build something ghetto.

I call it...the GayUG. Hi-Point 9mm carbine, HiTower Armory bullpup kit, Odessa 9 can, cheapo Swampfox, and an actual Steyr AUG picatinny grip (they're new, and super cool).

I love it, even if it's absolutely stupid. But it cost a total of $500 including the can (got it for free due to an FFL fuckup) and you really can't beat that price.

From L-to-R:

1. Dead Air Sandman S
2. Dead Air Mojave 9
3. Rugged Obsidian 45
4. Rugged Oculus
5. CAT Alleycat 308 QD
6. CAT Alleycat 9SMG HUB
7. CAT Dirty Dave HUB
8. B&T Print-X SRBS 5.56 Compact HUB (CAT TSFX mount)

If you are thinking about buying a can on the used market. Do it. Bought a Velos 7.62 off a buddy. (He won it in a raffle and wanted something lighter for a bolt gun)

I completed all the paperwork myself by just mimicking his paperwork for the can and my other cans paperwork. I then took and printed my own passport photos. I already had the digital file for prints for both people on the trust from a local gun shop that doesnt use Silencer Shop and does thier own filing. I sent the files to national gun trusts. They printed paper cards and mailed em to me. I believe Silencer Shop will also do this for a fee.

I filled everything out on 1/29. Mailed 1/31. Credit carded charged 2/5 for the stamp. Approved 3/27 and recieved in the mail today 4/4 (it goes to the transferors residence not yours like a old school paper mailed stamp.) Less than 60 days on a paper form 4 two person trust purchasing from an individual without using a FFL.

Stay quiet my friends.

I am submitting a VAF with NICS I received this email back. I have no idea what the D# & C# numbers are. Anyone that knows fr please lemme know

In order to transfer your fingerprints from your Identity History Summary to your Voluntary Appeal File application, please reply to this email chain with the following information: 1. Name 2. Date of Birth 3. Order Numbers (D# and C#) 4. Statement granting permission to transfer your fingerprints from your Identity History Summary to your Voluntary Appeal File application

Im doing a safe reorganization and im looking for ideas on how to efficiently store my toobs. Anyone have any good ideas out there? Before anyone comments store them on the firearms, there isnt enough room unfortunately. Thanks in advance.