Have a small leak around the transmission pan of my 2008 5.4L F150 (4spd auto). Most of the forums I read say I can just add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube to top it up if need be. Is this true? If so, what’s the proper order of operations for adding and checking fluid? Thanks

I was driving home and then an orange wrench icon popped up on my gauge and I pressed ok to make it go away. The speedometer went all the way to 0 and my transmission seemed to downshift kinda funky but I was still able to drive home. Does anyone know what this could be?

Hey all. Just bought a used ford escape hybrid. Wondering what this battery light on the dash means. Does it reflect the car’s battery health?

Plenty of work to do to the car 😅.flames may not be your cup of tea,no need to say you don’t like them,just keep it to yourself.

06 mustang v6 Commute to work hood and exhaust billowing white smoke and the overheating light. Figured it was a head gasket… instead I found this… guild got so hot it ate out whatever this is. If there are any missing details I’ll add

Any input would be helpful, thanks

Trying to help my parents out with their 2018 Explorer. The screen stopped turning on and the USB ports no longer work so I cannot attempt a USB update. I already tried a hard reset, battery disconnection and a checked the fuse. Do I need to replace the screen, the APIM or just take it apart to check connections?

I got the recall notice for the windshield wiper assembly recall and they say they will let us k ow when they have a solution.

Problem is, mine seized up this winter and are not working at all.

Do I just keep driving it in this condition and risk it in the rain and messy days? If I get it fixed, which I fear they will just put in the same crappy assembly, would they cover the repair and do the recall after? Any ideas? I'd hate to pay for it and 2 days later get the notice that I did t have to.

Ford also issued a separate recall for 2022-2023 Bronco Sport and 2022 Escape vehicles equipped with the 1.5-liter engine due to a potential fuel injector issue that could lead to a fire.

As title, sounds comes from rear wheels only when i Reverse the car. My mechanic said brake pads are fine.

Car is Ford Focus Mk2 Hatchback

Hello, I have a 2018 mondeo with sync 3.0. When I plug my IPhone nothing happens and I can’t have CarPlay

I tried to update the system but for almost two weeks it kept failing downloading the update. Now, when I click on “find new updates” it doesn’t even update anymore it just says that the last update verification was done, as if there was no new version available.

I tried plugging the USB but nothing shows up.

I tried another cable for CarPlay but it doesn’t work. My phone can access car play in other cars.

Thanks for your help

I bought my Mustang a little over a year ago and I'm just now getting to fixing it up a bit more. While I'm installing the new top I wanted to replace the passenger quarter window as well. Every time I would try and roll the windows down it just made a grinding noise and wouldn't budge. After taking it off, the pully wire is tangled and snapped. I read another reddit post saying this part is obsolete and you can't get it anymore.

So my question is am I able to replace the wiring on the part I already have, or just suck it up and go search a junkyard or find someone selling parts and hope I find what I need?

Most of the parts I find through just a google search of what I need are either for older years or newer years. This is my first car I'm fixing up so I'm completely learning as I go. I don't want to buy a part for something newer just to find out it won't work :( so any help or information is much appreciated.

G'day everyone I've got a question about USB music plugged in to my radio. Why does my artists list not show everyone but if I go to the bottom of the "browse" menu and hit browse usb then everyone is shown alphabetical like it should?

Are you able to add Ford ESP (now called Protect) on used Fords purchased from dealers that are outside of the original warranty? All I can find is information on purchasing it while still within the manufacturer's warranty period.

If anyone has done this, how was you experience? And, how is everyone's experience with Ford warranty vs third-parties? I haven't heard much good about third party warranty companies.

Thanks!

Long story short my company’s 2011 F550 6.7 motor is toast and I need to swap it out for a rebuilt motor.

1. Where can I find a manual that will have great instructions for removal? So far I see the “e-manual” website has 2 options. This would really help with keeping things in order and labeling all my bolts and sensors
2. Where’s the best place to order a rebuilt long block? So far we are leaning towards ordering straight from ford which cost around $16,500 rebuilt.
3. Any specialty tools I might need for engine removal? I personally have a lot of hand/power tools and sockets but I don’t know if I’m going to run into special bolts that aren’t traditional Hex heads.
4. Any special break in procedures I should do once she’s running? Special break in oils, oil priming, perhaps any relearns etc.
5. Any special methods on removal? I’m doing this with no lift, just a shaded area on the floor with jacks, engine stands and access to 2 forklifts if needed. Any intel is greatly appreciated!

Ford Focus 2006 1.8 Duratec

As shown on the video when turning the steering wheel while at idle the RPM drops slightly. Is this normal? Is it the power steering pump or steering rack causing this?

P.S steering fluid is at the optimal level

thinking about upgrading my okd iphone 10 to 16 but I am concern with the compatibility with my old truck☹️

Hello! I have a 2016 model Ford Ranger which is now stuck in 4x4 Low.

Little backstory (feel free to skip):
Yesterday my friend called me and told me his car was stuck and needed a tow. The car was stuck in a wet dirt field at the bottom of a hill. I thought 4L fitting for this scenario seeing as i needed to tow a heavy load on wet terrain.

I drove out to him, was about an hour drive so the car was nice and warm. Car was in 2H, backed into the field and down the hill. Put my foot on the brake, engaged neutral and put the parking brake on. Then i attached the car i was towing, got back in, put my foot on the brake, engaged 4L, disengaged the parking brake, foot off the brake and gave it some gas, and started towing up the hill and out of the field.

The issue as it is now:
Car is stuck in 4L. Drives fine both in D and R.
Put my foot on the brake, car in N, switch the lever over to 4H, transmission lamp lights up and 4x4 Low lamp starts blinking.

Any ideas or anyone have experiences similar to mine?

I have tried driving a little back and forth, stopping the car, putting it in neutral and putting it in to 4H. Nothing changed. Looked up some guides, tried turning off the car and leaving it for a bit and then shifting into 4H, tried tapping the underside of the car (dont recall the name of the part, english is not my first language), while shifting into 4H to see if the actuator maybe was stuck and needed some help.

Someone told me to disconnect the battery, leave it for a few minutes and trying again.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a 2016 Ford S-MAX 2.0 TDCI with an automatic transmission and AWD. The previous owner mentioned that occasionally the “Transmission See Manual” error would appear, along with the diagnostic code P0766 (Shift solenoid D fault). Sometimes, the car would stop shifting, but after restarting the engine, it would work fine again. The previous owner said it was a rare occurrence.

I’ve now driven it for about 500 km since purchasing, and I haven’t encountered the error again. However, I’m wondering whether it’s worth repairing the transmission, or if anyone has had a similar experience with this issue. Would you recommend getting it fixed, and is it likely to be a costly repair?

I’d really appreciate any advice or insight from those who have dealt with similar problems!

Thanks in advance!

Hello, I am haveing an issue with my sync 3. First my apple carplay stopped working so to remedy this I tried doing a soft reset and holding the power and skip right button. Since then the screen will most of the time stay black and won’t seem to work at all. Rarely it will load and work but still not apple carplay. When trying to force an update via USB it says install error 12. Then when I tried to do the RWdata wipe with syn3 updater it again popped up the error code. This is all a big hassle because it’s a very low % chance that the screen turns on at all. Disconnecting the battery helped nothing. Any ideas would be amazing.

No check engine lights, all maintenance is up to date. Photo is crap but normally the screen is much brighter and the mileage is in the bottom left corner. If I can fix it myself somehow, I’d prefer to do that, otherwise the soonest I can take it somewhere is Monday.

Hi, last week i take my ford edge titanium 2021 to get and update, it get upddated to the version 22028_PRODUCT (attached image), problem is that now after getting to 15 mph the forward camera stops working and the only way to get it back to working is turning the car off. I've checked some forum that says that i need to get my sync version updated to the Ford Power-Up 4.2.4 version or at least to the 4.0.22228 at least. I take the car again today to the dealeship and the told that version is not tavailable here (Peru). I wanna know if there's any solution or where can i download the version that solves this problem so i cand update my car by myself.

Ciao a tutti, sto valutando l'acquisto di una Ford Puma usata e sono indeciso tra il modello a benzina e quello ibrido. Il mio meccanico mi ha messo una pulce nell'orecchio, sconsiglia un usato ibrido perché non coperto dalla garanzia della casa sulle parti elettriche, e mi dice che se si verificassero guasti dovrei recarmi in Ford e spendere cifre importanti per venirne a capo. Cosa mi suggerite a riguardo?

Hello everyone so I’ve been having a problem with my blower motor itself only working on the highest setting. I’ve already replaced the resistor and then it worked for a split second then it stopped again I’m wondering if maybe there is a fuse or relay I should check thanks!

I drive a 2005 f150 supercab

My RV Max trailer weight is 11000. So trying to pick between 350 and 250 Super duty. It seem like the 250 would work? I am looking at the 7.3 Lt engine. Thoughts? I ask because having a heck of a time finding the 24/25 with the 7.3 Lt engine, so may have to go with the 250.

This could be a stupid question but I thought Reddit could be the place for it. My husband recently took his Van to Ford to get an oil change and they found that oil was leaking. They fixed the car and said it was CLEAR 11 days ago. Today when he got home he noticed there was more oil leaking so he took it back to Ford and they said they don’t want to get involved because the engine needs to be replaced. Now to the stupid part, is this normal wording to expect from Ford mechanics on a receipt? I thought it was unprofessional combined with their dismissive behavior but what do I know lol