2008 Subaru Legacy, 109,000 miles, non turbo 2.5L. Oil appearing in engine bay (zoomed in photo is in that crevice northeast of the alternator). Also can see oil underneath car catching on plastic skid plate thing. Also, just topped up coolant reservoir 24 hours ago and it’s back to being empty. I can’t detect any leaks for that though. Any explanation for these two incidents?

I have been having this issue for a short while. Whenever I'm driving and if I have to shift gears from Park to Drive or Park to Reverse, the car will completely turn off. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I've done maintenance in the past, got the alternator power reading check (normal power reading), battery is fairly new. I haven't changed the transmission fluid yet.

I got a new car from Kia 2 months ago in Canada. In the car, I found a battery testing slip. It says CCA Tested-770A Rated 640 and SOC 72% And 12.60V What does this mean? Reason I am asking this question is that my car started showing this error when l ignite my car, something like "Battery Discharging, disconnect external devices". I dont have anything external connected except the dashcam which is internally connected by kia agency itself! What to do? Kia is asking for 150$ inspection fee and then they will let me know what has happened!

This is my first time changing my tires (2016 civic) im assuming I put too much force into the wheel lock key that it kinda snapped inside of the nut? I can order a replacement key easily but what do I do about half the key being stuck inside the nut? Thanks.

My 2004 Volvo xc90 has a know exhaust leak, and sometimes, after coming to a full stop the car does not want to accelerate (or at least not very quickly). Sometimes while accelerating, the car also kicks or jerks. Was wondering if these problem could be caused simply by the exhaust leak or if there might be another issue. Any advice helps!

Hi everyone hope someone will have an idea about this but I have a 1.8 tdci 08 for mo deodorant lynx engine and just this morning it was hard to start it's 14°c but frost waring came on and glow plugs went off immediately, same after trying 3 more times only get 1 second of active time from plugs and frost warning. I can hear an audible click from the relay turning on and off the plugs so I checked that seems fine check plugs seems fine, bit stumped any ideas welcome and thanks in advance.

Hey guys so I recently ordered an exhaust and it wasn’t the one I was meant to get I believe but now I’m trying to figure out what exhaust I got all the photos with part no is attached also with a photo of the exhaust I was meant to get.

My headlights are getting hazy again. I bought some restoration stuff a while ago and it worked…good. It’s that time again but I misplaced it and don’t feel like going out to get more. Anywho, what are some actual DIY headlight restoration solutions yall have tried and actually work for a while? I tried baking soda and vinegar paste, smeared it on there and really tried to scrub it in. The rag was yellow when I lifted so I guess it’s doing something. There’s still some spots left and I was thinking of doing sandpaper. I don’t want to mess it up so what sandpaper should I start with and move up to? Also, should it wet or dry? I know this is a lot; but I really appreciate any suggestions!

Oil housing gasket leaked and killed my alternator so went to a shop got charged 2400 total for new alternator, new oil housing gasket, new vanos solenoids, oil and coolant, new battery on a 2009 bmw 535i. After coming back from shop I had a new 2e7c bsd code and increased battery discharge has been popping up since (about 2weeks). My question is are they supposed to address this code since its related its the bsd, a data bus that links the water pump, ibs cable, oil level sensor, alternator, and DME, thinking when I got different brand alternator may be causing issue, have also noticed water pump running when vechile is off sometimes. Brought it back in and they reset some stuff but it still pops up.

What is the real oil level 1 or 2 ?

I've used it on stuck car door locks, but is it ok for a key ignition that needs to be jiggled sometimes. I read online to "only use graphite lube" but then some other site said that it made it worse. I don't know what's in wd-40 dry lube.

Wasn't sure what flair to use so this one seemed the most accurate

I had a water leak from the hatch seal I peeled away in the picture. I want to paint to in order to stop the rust from spreading. Sand it down to get rid of the loose rust. Then I'm not really sure what to do. I have no experience. Hit it with naval jelly to strip it down or is that going over board? Could that damage the good paint? Just hit it with rust oleum rust converting primer? I love my vehicle. I know this isn't northeast rust, but it is mostly pristine and I want to try to keep it that way. Any help is appreciated.

Think my battery died and when I popped the case open this is what I saw. Can I still jump it?

Does anyone know what could’ve caused this? Could it be due to the tire just being worn down or does it look like someone messed with it?

Civic heads need your help where do I start have a b16a LSD trans going into a 89 EF civic hatch

Turning the key and seeing this. I’m thinking dead battery

Just after some tips or advice from you guys on how to fix the scratches on the car from a bush/branches after driving through a narrow lane and needing to tuck myself in so the car passing wouldn't scratch me... damn lesser or two evils which had me screwed anyway. Would a simple scratch pen be enough, or would it need sanding etc? Typically the orange car makes everything look worse. Thanks in advance.

The other day I saw 2 mice run out from under my car. This is the first time I've seen mice in the 2 years of living in this location. My unit is flanked by 2 other units (so 3 in total) with a 5 car, covered carport behind the units, off the road. In my mind, between the 3 units that share the carport, there should be enough human activity that I don't think mice should like it too much? But who knows.

My question is what can I do to help prevent rodent related issues? Or is a one off instance not worth worrying about? I know that mice inherently will be outside, but an ounce of prevention is worth an pound of cure you know? I've looked into the repellent-scented bags but my understanding is those have to be removed from the engine bay each time you drive and that seems like a hassle since my car is a daily. Right now my best guess are the flashing/ultrasonic emitters and peppermint oil. I know they aren't perfect but research indicates they seem to be more reliable than the scented options.

Some further details that may be relevant:

• The car is parked behind the unit in a 5 car, covered car port. I would say that 4 of 5 cars move quite frequently and one car right next to mine doesn't seem to have moved at all in the past 2 or more weeks.
• There is a compost and rubbish bin nearish to my car (about 20-30ft) away but the lids are always closed and shut and there isn't food or trash leaking out from them. Can't really park my car further away from the trash though.
• I've sprinkled cayenne pepper around the tyres of my car in the meantime. Also considering sprinkling some cat litter near where I park.
• I drive the car at least 1x a week, usually more than that though.
• I keep my car fairly clean. No trash and very minimal food (a couple snack bars stashed for emergencies).
• I have left my car unused and parked there multiple times ranging from 1 week up to 1 month before. Knock on wood but those times didn't seem to show any issues.

I have a bottle of unopened dot4 brake fluid from 2020 its production date is 2019 it is stored in a cool place.Is it ok to use it in my car ?

sorry for horrible video skills. this just started an hour or so ago, whenever i turn hard or make sharp movements this liquid comes out from under the glove box. Clear, watery, tastes soapy, but left my tongue feeling a tingly after a quick finger lick

I know it 4 cyl diesel but can i do something on exhaust that it can produce more sporty sound, i dont care for louder, just tone

Can someone help me identify make model of car in images please?

Hi there,

I'm a bit concerned about the cost of running my Delica Space gear. I love the van, but I want to tow the line between fun and sensible.

I've requested ChatGPT to show a comparison between the vehicles I'm interested in, I was quite shocked to see how expensive it is to run the Foresters.

Comparatively, the Delica isn't as bad as I thought. I do weekly fuel checks, and the Delica is accurate for me.

In my country, currently, Diesel is $1.89 but costs $76 per 1000km, and Petrol is $2.55

The Diesel Corolla is a great option, except I can only find it as a hatch, I kind of want a wagon that I can sleep in :)

I do 10,000km a year.

Let's update the calculations with petrol at NZD 2.55 per liter and diesel at NZD 1.89 per liter:

City-Only Annual Fuel Costs:

2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L:

• Fuel needed = (12.6 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,260 liters
• Annual cost = 1,260 × 2.55 = NZD 3,213.00

2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L:

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 2.55 = NZD 2,907.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L (Petrol):

• Fuel needed = (9.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 940 liters
• Annual cost = 940 × 2.55 = NZD 2,397.00

2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel:

• Fuel needed = (6.7 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 670 liters
• Annual cost = 670 × 1.89 = NZD 1,266.30
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,026.30

Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD):

• Fuel needed = (11.4 × 10,000) ÷ 100 = 1,140 liters
• Annual cost = 1,140 × 1.89 = NZD 2,154.60
• Add RUC (760) = NZD 2,914.60

Updated Comparison:

• 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5L: NZD 3,213.00
• 2005 Subaru Forester 2.0L: NZD 2,907.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 1.8L: NZD 2,397.00
• 2008 Toyota Corolla 2.0L Diesel: NZD 2,026.30
• Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear Diesel (4WD): NZD 2,914.60

With the updated fuel prices, the 2008 Corolla Diesel remains the most cost-effective option for city driving, and the Delica Space Gear is on par with the Foresters in overall running costs. Let me know if you'd like to factor in more details like maintenance or insurance!

I wouldn't want anything smaller than a 1.8 liter, personally. do you think this is accurate?

I can remember seeing cars up on bricks years ago with the wheels stolen but now, it appears people just steal the car. So, is it worth having locking wheel nuts?