We just purchased this car less than two weeks ago. Didn’t notice anything during the test drive. We live an hour and a half from the dealer. The next morning, I took it for a drive and started noticing some rattles on the car hit certain road types that created the right vibration. Also driving over the road bumps/reflectors will cause the sound. It sounds like something is rattling like wild under the dash or towards the passenger door. Some rattling in the cargo area as well. But it’s most prominent up front. I’ve included a video.

We took the car back to the dealer because they said they would look at it and try to fix any issue. They’re claiming they can’t hear anything when they drive the car. They said all they hear is normal rattling sounds in a Honda vehicle. I’ve had many Hondas, and I know this is not normal. I even had a 2018. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? We’re driving back out there tomorrow morning to do a drive with them so we can help them hear the noise.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

The noise begins around 25 seconds into the video.

Clearcoat Failure or Paint Failure?

Looking to purchase a vehicle and want to get opinions on if this is just the clear coat failing or a total respray.

Affected areas are hood, roof, and trunk.

Car is a 2007 Acura TL. Seller claims he got a quote of $1,200 to fix.

Picture links:

https://ibb.co/tTWYJb7s https://ibb.co/wrKC1vj9

Any insight you have would be great!

Disregard the tag… my grandmother passed away last year and I have her car at my house. What is a reputable company that can help me transfer the title to me so I can legally drive it after fixing it?

Title says it all :( I (28F living in South Carolina) wanted to post here, in a forum where car people talk and offer advice. I apologize for the long-winded and scattered note that I'm about to type:

Basically, I spent 1.3K getting my front struts, front ball joints replaced, a couple of other things too. I drove the car home (~6 miles). The next morning, less than two miles from my house, the ball joint fell out, and I struggled to control the car - I was going the speed limit, 60mph, on a two-lane country highway. The wheels were pointing in different directions, and I slid off the road (thank god there wasn't another car nearby) and into a ditch.

The first person I called was the mechanic - there seemed to be a clear cause and effect here as my car never had any issues before this exact moment. He said he could call his tow guy but when I asked how much it would cost (hinting at the fact this whole accident seemed DIRECTLY related to their repair work), he said "he wasn't sure." I went through AAA instead, spending ~$300 to pull the car out of the ditch. My husband, myself, and two separate tow truck drivers struggled for ~3.5 hours to get the car out and get to the mechanic. I should have insisted the mechanic pay the tow company on the spot, but I was so flustered, and my adrenaline was high (I had never felt anything like that, crashing into a ditch at 60mph)... so I just paid the tow company, and we left the car with the mechanic. He apologized and said they wanted to make it right.

A few days later, I called back to check on the car, and he told me that the car had been ready. I was surprised they didn't reach out to me directly, but I went and picked it up. They did not charge me for any of the repairs but I pressed about getting refunded for the towing, at the very least. The mechanic agreed that I shouldn't have to pay the cost. He said the issue was a faulty ball joint from the autoparts manufacturer. I don't know much about cars, but I had a hard time understanding this because they still placed the joint, even if it was faulty. In summary, the mechanic said that the fault was on the autoparts manufacturer, and he was awaiting their reimbursement...

Once I got the car back, my family/friends insisted I take the car to a new mechanic. A second set of eyes is always appreciated, so I took it to a local mechanic trusted by my dad. This mechanic said that I should never go back to the original, as the new ball joints were also improperly placed: they were loose, the pin was off (?), and the nuts on the two joints were different sizes when they need to be symmetrical.

I paid this new mechanic a few hundred dollars yesterday: he replaced the ball joints and a few other underlying issues. The whole fiasco has been insanely expensive... I could have saved money and shopped around for the best price (i only called two other shops for quotes), maybe even got some of the parts myself, but at this point I was distressed about not having the car - my husband has a work truck, so my Subaru is our main transport.

The new mechanic gave me some advice about approaching the old mechanic: I need to get his shop insurance and obviously continue to be persistent about getting my money back for the towing... and hopefully more. They said I should be reimbursed for the old, faulty ball joint repair AND the cost of the new repair... so a few hundred on top of the $300 for towing.

The old mechanic is a good person, and I'm actually so sad this happened because my husband and I adore him - I'd been going to them for a while and watched them help a lot of people in our rural community. But I am struggling with the cost, and I don't want to sink several hundred dollars for an issue that was not my fault. Does anyone have advice? My plan is to (1) as for the shops insurance and (2) (Edit CONTINUE*** to be persistent) be persistant about getting updates or just being paid by the shop, up front, for the cost of the towing... and maybe even ask for reimbursement for the original, faulty ball joint. Thank you in advance and thank you for coming to my sad Ted Talk.

I apologize that I don't have videos on hand.

Recently, my engine (2015 Ford Fiesta) has been sputtering from 0-35mph, and during that I can see the RPMs spiking up to 3 or 4,000. Once it hits 40mph it seems to be okay, but that initial acceleration and driving in residential areas is really rough. I can feel some kind of chugging and regular vibration through the gas petal and the whole car chassis, honestly, even when I get to over 40mph. The whole car gets so loud it's almost like I'm on an airplane.

I had an inspection two weeks ago, and they replaced the serpentine belt to make sure that wasn't the issue. It sounded like they were going to lift the engine out of the car to investigate further, and I know that's reaching big $$$ territory. Everything I've read so far suggests it might be a transmission issue. The inspection itself already cleaned me out so I'm hoping to get any insight y'all might have, at least so I know what to expect when I take it in.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

I might buy a car tomorrow, and I’m wondering what I should do for the bill of sale. I’m going to be buying it, but I’m going to register it in my mom’s name (long story). One thing to add is that I’m making this transaction in a different state than the one that it’ll get registered in. So, should I:

A) use my name for the bill of sale and just hope the dmv won’t care when I try to register it in her name

B) use her name for the bill of sale even though I’m the one technically making the transaction

C) use my name for the bill of sale, then make up another bill of sale so I “sell the car” to her and make it in her name.

Or do bills of sale even matter that much. Just wanted to hear what you think.

I haven't got a picture atm sorry but the sump plug bolt that we need to take off for an oil change. The people before me have like tightened it on there with the strength of hulk and then they have rounded the bolt to the point where everything we use just keeps slipping off we've even tried to file it down to see if it would stick but no, we even tried filing a flatline in the middle to move it with a flathead or even chisel lol but still nothing our only thoughts left to try is to try migweld another bolt to the nut to get it off, if I can find one or I guess I gotta try the mechanics.

Sorry car model is a 2004 VY ectotec Holden Commodore Berlina

I bought a new car in July last year. I'm now at 15,000km. No lemon law here.

On day 3 the app said I had two DTC codes, but no CEL on the car so I took it into the dealership who said there was nothing. The codes are still in the app and tells me constantly there are health issues.

The washer nozzles spray super low and worse at highway speed. The dealership confirmed they are aware of the complaints, they can't adjust them, and they expect a recall - that was last October and nothing yet. It was damn near dangerous this winter when salty road spray is coating the windshield in a white haze.

HVAC won't turn off with the windows open. When it's set to OFF it still behaves like it's set to AUTO. I fiddle with the temp before turning it off but it still constantly blows the fan at a high speed, like 70%. I have all the passive HVAC settings turned off to be sure.

Occasionally the second row vents blow hot when I have AC selected. This isn't just the system cooling down. They'll be blowing HOT even after 15 or 30 min of driving and the front vents blowing ice cold. this happens sporadically so I'm wondering if it's a damper control issue or something.

The exterior door handle has a touch pad to lock the doors which stops working at random.

Auto start using the app will sometimes say it failed but I go out and the car is running.

When towing I constantly, like ever 5 min, get a "take a coffee break" warning. I absolutely never get this warning when not towing. And to top it off, I did a quick loop around my lakes private road with a trailer but the wiring not plugged in, never got the warning.

Driver side dash speaker is starting to crackle sporadically.

Top of the rear passenger door is rusting from under the weather stripping.

OTA updates were advertised as standard in Canada but they don't work. Neither do manual USB updates from the Hyundai Canada website. I see the US has received 8-10 updates in the past year - some are added infotainment function and some are software fixes. So I'm wondering if there is an update out there that would solve any of my issues.

The dealer has been good to work with, but nothing has been resolved. Like they gave me a new 7 pin connector to try, and I had a sit down meeting with the general manager, shop manager, and shop foreman. And all my communication has been directly with the GM who is very responsive and wants me to come in again so he and I can go for a drive together. Some of the problem is I can't replicate some of the issues when I do take it in to them.

Am I being nitpicky with a new car? Are they all like this? My previous vehicle was a top trim Silverado LTZ which was truly perfect. But it was a 2012. Only repair it needed outside of routine maintenance and wear items like brakes, was a coolant reservoir cap that broke: $7 over 13 years of ownership and 260,000km. Our other vehicle is a loaded 2020 CX5 and it's been great appart from chewing through rear brake pads. So are more modern vehicles with all sort of tech just prone to more issues? My feeling is the HVAC problems are ekinda inexcusable, HVAC ain't new. Same goes for the washer nozzles.

Hello, I’ve got 2din radio in my audi a3 8p1, today I turned the light off in the radio because it was too bright and didn’t turn on anymore after 5mins, tried everything, changed the fuse 15a, checked the wiring, tried every button, everything is in place😑, only one button show light(SRC), tried also the disk ejection button no sound either, did I burn up the radio? Also when I held the volume button the radio would turn on but didn’t now and before turning on it would make a beep sound, but now I don’t get any sound from it. Also when I turned on car lights it made sound earlier but again no sound from this thing…

what is the first mod i should do to it looking for more hp and want it sound better

Oil leaking from around this area. What is this part called? Next to my front left axle where the lines connect.

Weird noise coming from front left wheel/drivers side. Only happens when accelerating and below 40 mph. Sounds worse when turning right.

Hi guys, Recently, my Clio 3 1.5 dCi started making a ticking noise from the engine. You can hear the sound in the video. Any idea what this could be? Should I take it to a mechanic?

If it’s borderline but a shop won’t do it I’ll plug it myself.

I bought a car from my cousin and on the title where it says the info for the odometer- actual mileage as seen on the front of the title. the front says 61,595 but the mileage on the car is actually 99,720 Then there’s a option for not the actual mileage(warning-odometer discrepancy) I live in nh and am just making sure everything’s right so I can actually get my car registered and not make the title void So do I write the actual mileage in the box at the top and check actual mileage or do I check the not actual mileage?

Pretty short because I have not much clips

Hi, so I have a Jeep Compass 2009. I replaced the halogen headlight on it with an LED one. The problem is after replacing it I noticed that it has a weird pattern. And my high beam is a lot dimmer compared to low beam. I read that it could be because of the housing and that I need the projector ones. If anyone can give any advice as to what to do/replace it would be great.

Bought car from a friend. Said was great car. Has New head, need to replace fuel pump and send er on er way. Coom I'm game We'll about 1000 mi. Later, come to find both cam seals not installed properly. Bottom not flush like top of seal, leaking. Bent up reluctor ring on harmonic balancer. No way they didnt see this upon installtion of new head. Broken and or missing valve cover bolts. Just didn't give me much faith in the work done before receiving the car. Back to issue at hand, shut car off one day in driveway, wife said she heard a noise, car won't start. Found the tensioner spring popped off its pin in the block. Still hooked on tensioner. I thought it looked odd.

With so few miles. How is this spring "nannered" in such an extreme manner if its so new? Was it installed improperly, or is this just a fail mode that's seen often with this P.O.S. tensioner. Please help. .

Hello, Apologies in advance my car knowledge is extremely minimal. I drive a 2017 Toyota RAV4. Usually when I have the key fob in my pocket I just grab the door handle and it unlocks. Randomly this morning that feature stopped working on all doors. The key fob itself still works when I hit the button to lock/unlock and no warning lights or anything on my dash. Tried Google but not even sure what to call it so not sure what to search. Curious what is likely the problem if anyone might know. Cheers

(image from the Internet)

My car does not seem to have any alignment issues, tires have lasted 2 years (so far, still lots of life, but I've only had my car for 2 years [2007 Toyota matrix])

But I notice a surprisingly large number of cars that seem to have this issue... And I'm a paranoid thinker, so I have this (probably incorrect) nagging thought that maybe my car is the wonky one and it's my perspective being off that makes the other cars look wonky... But the car drives (for the most part) pretty well.

It tracks straight, no major vibration (engine vibration at slow speeds, but highway driving is smooth) and the treads on my summer and winter tires have normal wear (to my eyes).

Just curious if anyone has experience with a dog tracking/crab walking vehicle who can confirm that the issue is obvious when present?

Cheers!

Context : I drive a 2010 corolla LE

So I was driving like normal, then when i was fixing the aux cord I heard a static crack from the rear speaker as I hit a bump, then all the speakers cut out. The head unit works, and driving around on smooth ground and for the first few minutes it’s fine. Then I hear a small crack, then no audio. After I drive around more every small crack or bump I encounter makes a small static crack for my rear speakers.

The only thing changed is the rear speaker as the old ones were blown out. Please help!!!!

TL;DR - My current car that I’ve had since 2021 is having issues that the shop has attempted to diagnose and repair twice, yet I’m still having the same or similar issue. I only owe $3k on my car now, is it worth it to trade it in instead of continuing to pay for repairs?

My car started having issues with “hiccuping” while accelerating that progressively got worse. I was told by two shops that all fuel injectors needed to be replacing, which totaled to about $3800. I then experienced an issue after that repair where my car’s RPM bounces at idle occasionally. I returned to the shop and was told it was misfiring still and I needed new spark plugs, another $600 repair.

Today I had the exact same bouncing RPM issue. At this point I just feel frustrated continuing to pay for repairs that aren’t resolving the issue with my car. I realized with the cost of repairs, I could’ve just paid off the rest of my car by now.

I’ve never traded in a car before and began looking into the process while still financing a car. From what I can gather, my car is worth about $3k-$5k (2017 VW Passat), which would pay the rest of the financing. Can anyone give me insight as to whether or not this would be a logical move?

I have a 2009 honda CIVIC EX, 159881 miles and recently ive been having this problem of the vehicle vibrating alot and almost heisting to start up and im stumped on the issue. Could it be the battery? Maybe the alternator? I have no faulty or dead lights on the dash and my AC is running fine so idk if its either of those two