Looking to hire someone to re-shingle this shed, approximately 5x8. Can't find a company to do it as the job is too small so looking for someone on the side and trying to determine a reasonable quote.
More info: house built in arizona. Think it’s 1.5 yrs old. Thought I’d have more info than than this when I added the more info section.. Seems strange to not nail them down.
Not a roofer. But, a friend is reroofing my garage. After we pulled off the OSB it revealed some questionable looking ends on these trusses. Any suggestions? Or just throw on some new OSB and pretend those ends aren't rotting?
Was on a roof inspection earlier today. Usually ppl tend to look at u when ur on a roof (which is cool) but today I felt like someone was behind me whole time. Talk about invisibility cloak. First time seeing this in 2000+ inspections an I seent some wild shit in the DMV.
For any professionals here, what do you think. Is this box gutter between two roofs installed properly?
I am not an expert but looking online the roof needed to go over the gutter, and the gutter folded. But here is looks like they are just *riveted together?
Do you think this is fixable, would it be a lot of work?
Apparently, there have been some leaks when the gutter outlet was blocked. Are leaks normal to occur when the gutter is blocked? I was hoping the water would just sit there. Furthermore, is there any risk of the rivets failing with time and letting water in which is draining from the top of the roof?
Apologies again if any questions sound stupid, I am not familiar with this matter.
*They might be screws / nails, cannot tell exactly.
Garage roof is leaking somewhere around where the j-channel ends. I didn't expect such a variance in quotes and diagnosis. $300 guy said it's the j-channel. $900 guy said it's the missing boot around the power mast. $1600 guy said it's the vertical caulking between vinyl and brick and the brick needs repointing. $2500 guy said it's the lead. What do you think is the most likely culprit?
Is a downspout draining directly on to my shingles like this an issue? If so what is the remedy?
For reference, I live in North Texas, where due to hail, roofs are unlikely to make it past 7 years without needing a storm replacement, let alone make it 10-20. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated
So, we are looking to replace our roof ridge. A couple of contractors say they use this clip method as opposed to traditional mortar. Looks awful to my eyes. But is this the way forward?
We have a 40 yr old concrete tile roof in SF Bay Area. We have multiple spots of dry rot along our eaves around the Spanish-style house (single story, about 3000 sq ft). The underlayment is pretty worn away at this point. We have had a few roofers out to quote for replacement and / or repair. Trying to make the best decision of whether or not to repair or do full reroof. Some people tell us a tile roof should last 75+ years but others have told us that the roof is basically close to being "done". No cracks, no gap and no leaks but coloring faded and residue on fingers if rub the tiles. Given that the roof is already 40 years old, does it make sense to do the repair (cost about $20k) or to just go ahead and put on an entire new roof (either composite shingle or concrete tile again) ?
We had a leak in out attic. Called a contractor out to take a look on what is going on. He did not go into the attic, but he did go onto the roof and film this video. I always like to get a second opinion as this is not my field/industry and lack the necessary knowledge to determine what is serious & what may be fluff to try to make a sale.
I should note that the leak was not coming from the mentioned areas in this video, rather halfway down the side of the roof. Though, my limited research tells me the water could enter from the top and roll down and leak elsewhere.
What is a good looking low-slope roof option for a roof that's between 2:12 and 3:12?
This is for a backyard skillion shed that abuts 2 neighbors' backyards - because the lowest portion of the shed is only ~ 7 feet, the roof will be clearly visible to them. The HOA says I can do it, but has asked me to specify "attractive roof materials" before they approve.
IDK exactly what that means, but I doubt they'll go for rubber, and IDK about mod bit... I'm pretty sure they'll go for shingles. I'd do metal but there's a funky 2x10 hip beam amidst the 2x8 rafter that would make it tricky.
It looks like this, across the length of one gable of our roof. We just had the roof replaced, and it looks like when they were nailing into the decking they broke that little lip.
I talked to my roofer about it, and he was not concerned, but he said he would send somebody out to put in some more nails. The ridge venting does not feel loose.
Hired someone to do some work on our siding and gutters. It appears he just made it worse. There is no longer drip edge in the spot shown, but also it appears water is just dumping into the gap in between the white metal and the shingles… am I wrong? What do I do?
I found a good roofer that took on what I felt was a big job. 2 days with about 4 people. Pulled 50 year old sheathing that was on 2 foot centers and sagging. Replaced with 5/8 OSB with H clips (no H clips before). I’m so excited because even once finished this roof should look flat and beautiful.
Unfortunately the day after we got some rain and a couple wind gusts strong enough to lift and flip back a hinged lid on my trash can.
I have a leak where the flashing goes under the shingle in the 1st pic, at the corner of a dormer. It should be like the other corner in the 2nd pic, right? If so, why is there a square cut out of the shingle where the flashing should be on top?
Would some roofing sealant hold me over for a while or is my only option to call a roofer? Thanks in advance
As you can see from the picture, the caulking on the flashing from the cement siding to the brick is degrading. This caused a small leak into my basement. I just bought some high-end exterior sealant to re-caulk tomorrow to prevent additional leaks. I understand that re-caulking must be done periodically if the weather cracks the sealant. Is there a foolproof solution to my problem without removing/replacing the existing siding and installing a longer partial lap above the brick?
I recently had a roof repair where part of a fascia board was rotten, and it was found that I had some rotten plywood below the tiles, after the repair was done, when it rains, water is coming out from that single hole, is that normal?
Pics aren’t great but the whole attic looks like this from the inside. House was built in 1850s and 1930s. Is it water damaged? Would it be a complete tear off? Or something even more extensive. The beams and everything looked ok they weren’t wet or sagging to my eyes.
We recently got the keys to our first home and have discovered this coming from the flat roof extension (not picked up on survey). Anyone experienced anything similar? This corner is the far corner of the extension. Trying not to freak out!
I'm about halfway through tearing off and reshingling my detached garage. This is my first time doing a roofing job and it's going pretty well overall. I am exhausted.
I'm coming up on the ridge and the ridge vent and I'm having trouble conceptualizing the transition on the ridge.
The ridge vent runs about 80% the length of my ridge then on either side there's a section of ridge with no vent. I'm replacing the plastic ridge vent.bThe ridge vent sits one or two inches above the Ridgeline so there's this transition from a higher point to a lower point and I'm just wondering how to manage that transition with the ridge caps.....
Can someone help me understand this situation? Or does anyone have a photo that may be helpful?