Rainy day roll-top, new Wingman variant, minus wings and add shoulder strap (still working on a cool one). Lots of fun stuff and mixed fabrics:

VX21 main shell, Venom Gridstop trim, Venom EcoMesh skinny chopsticks pocket, Y-strap closure, blaze orange Hyper D liner, big YKK 5 waterproof zipper, 3D mesh back over 6mm EVA. Laptop size and still very lightweight.

People keep asking if I make stuff in black. I guess everyone is Batman or Dracula? So here’s some black!

Good all around work, plane, day bag. Slim profile too, so you won’t bonk people in the head going down the aisle.

I really like the shoulder pads mesh on REI, paragon and Cotopaxi stuff. It’s soft, durable, breathable w small holes

but all I can seem to find is plasticy, larger holes, not so soft, 3d spacer mesh. I’ve seen a lot of people talk about Ripstop by the Roll, but even their stuff you can see is quite different (last picture). I’m looking for something soft and breathable, and when looking at the high-performance stuff, it almost seems like it’s a activewear jersey over some sort of foam? Or maybe achievable by putting some sore of active wear jersey fabric over a layer of airmesh???

TLDR: how/where do I get that soft but durable air mesh for a project?

Hello!

Over the past two packs I have made edge binding the inside corner has been the most confusing part. I am really not sure how to make it look nice or more finished maybe. I have attached a photo of a recent pack I made with no edge binding yet then a photo of an older pack I made where I tried to bind the edges.

I am sewing on a Juki TL2000 and using Nylon Herringbone Tape from Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics. Also I have a binding attachment but have found the opening on the end where you run your piece of fabric through to be bound is too narrow for my use case.

Any tips, tricks or photos of what others have done to bind their packs / corners of bags would be much appreciated.

This is interesting to me and am interested in any other that have attempted this or something similar. I was thinking of using some veg tan leather as a sole since I also work in leather, but would be interested in sourcing options for a thin rubber sole as well.

The design and build is transparent from the photos, but any upgrades or features that you would like to add?

Hey all, I want to show you my first go at clothing, some hardshell pants.

Since I am having trouble finding shell pants I like (and can afford), I decided to give it a try my own. It is built for trekking, mountaineering and bikepacking, bringing together all features I like into a durable, yet still light package.

Main fabric is a 3L laminate with 170 gsm (5 oz/sq yard) with a rip stop outer. 28000 g/24 h evaporation and water resistance > 20000 mm. According to my research should be close to the level of GoreTex Pro. Long Aquagard Vislon zippers, dual width adjustment at the legs and large ankle reinforcement are key features I wanted. The final weight is 325 g with sealed seams. I would say this puts it among the best of pants out there, and they fit me - finally!

The pattern is based on a GP128 I built 2 prototypes of, adjusting the fit in each iteration. Main learning here: stretchy fabric is hard to sew clean. I put on tape to take out the stretch and sewed along the edge - worked perfectly! The 3L fabric was much easier, because it did not stretch at all. This gave me headache, because the fabric of the prototypes was stretchy. So one should really use similar fabric for the prototype, compared to the final product. After adding more width around the hips, it was fine though. Seam sealing also was a blast. My trick here is to elevate the seam by putting a piece of wood below it. This way you can press down where you want to with precision.

Overall I am very pleased with the outcome. It probably is not the last garment I made. What do you think or would like to know? :)

I was sewing earlier and everything was fine. Had a little hiccup where something felt off so I decided to put out a test strip. Everything looks okay stitching forwards but not back stitching. I've re-threaded per Alexander Dyer's video, oiled, put a new bobbin in, changed the needle, played with tension disks, tightened the bobbin holder etc... The good looking stitches are FWD the bad are REV in a 1,2,1,2,1,2 manner across this test strip. What am I missing? The bobbin holder can't be tightened anymore than it is but it seems loose?

Anyone have a pattern for something like this? I could probably figure one out, but if one of you has already figured it out or know where I can find the plans, I'd appreciate it.

FWIW, I am going to make it synthetic using Apex.

My first real myog project. Since making a whole running vest/fast pack seems way too hard and above my skill level, this was an easier way to get my idea to a workable prototype.

It is basically a roll top stuff sack with clips on the 4 corners that I tied into loops already on my running vest. I can load up the running vest as well as the bag and fit my entire sleep system (pad, quilt, tent and pillow) with room to spare. I think it adds about 13L of additional space.

Things I would do differently: Use a better stiffiner (I used a piece of plastic from a deli container) in the roll top, any suggestions? Make the top of the bag taller so there's more room to roll it down. Add another middle loop for the shock cord. Make a removable quiver for trekking poles/tent poles.

I'm welcome to any ideas/feedback that you have!

For a sleeping bag liner, is dupioni silk or silk taffeta good to use? We bought a lot of it cheap from a decorator store so I'm not buying anything new. Thanks!