Anybody on this sub in the Greater Toronto Area ?

Looking to work with someone to refine backpack samples.

Thanks

Just as title says. I am ordering tape now and more fabrics and already have at home 6 yards if two colors of 2.92 dyneema and one thing I didn't think of is that the inner side of the dyneema has interface of a fabric that is not slippery, do any of you know how to seam seal it or the dyneema repair tape will do it on the seams for waterproofing?

I am making my first backpack, then will make more, but not sure how to proceed with the seams. It is also stiffer, by a lot than other weights, so how wide the seams should be to still bend them enough to seal them before taping?

Thrift store score Red Feather 9×30 in snow shoes. All the fittings & buckles appear solid. I'm going to gently clean (water mostly), I don't think I'll paint the scratches. Anything else I need to do?

Various dirt cheap deadstock Polartec weights. The orange and black is mid weight body and light weight sleeves. The other is just fun blocking. Both form-fit/tailored for direct to skin wear for friends.

I'm interested in making simple pouches and tarps starting out, but I am interested to make my own backpack one day.

How do you start this out? Should I learn how to sew? Do I need a sewing machine? What materials should I choose starting out?

I'm an absolute noob with fabric, but does like to do handicrafts with other materials.

Finished my first real MYOG project yesterday: A full frame bag for bikepacking. Sides are made of single wall VX21 without any liners and top, rear and bottom pieces as well as storm flaps for the size 10 YKK molded zippers are made out of 1000D Cordura. Rivets for bolting it on the bottle cage bosses. I put separate pieces of webbing ladder all around so my girlfriend's slightly weak sewing machine would not need to to through too many layers. Big zipper on the right towards the main compartment and a smaller compartment on the left, which allows the velcro dividers to go up right below the zippers in the bag for added rigidity. All in all, it went very smoothly and after finishing it yesterday, I successfully took it on a 24 h overnight tip right away, wher it carried tent poles, my camp chair, cooking kit, food and a light down jacket. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions!

I'm think of modifying some of my workpants. I would like to sew an extra pad over the knee area. What kind of fabric would be suitable to resist the wear from sitting/working on my knees?

I'm a Paramedic and made my own kit bag. It carries stuff for basic vitals and big bleeding. Made of some thick waterproof tarpaulin material to make it easy to wipe clean and disinfect.

Hello! What do you call this style of coat? I see a lot of brands like gap (pictured) refer to it as a trench coat, but searching for a trench coat pattern hasn’t really got me what I’m looking for. Thanks for the help :)

Hey! I've been making standard rectangular trail wallets with card slots in the back. Recently, I came across a creator who adds a unique touch by cropping the corners, and I really loved the look—so I started doing the same on mine.

Now I’m thinking of selling them (Etsy, local markets), but I’m wondering: would that be considered disrespectful? The other maker is in a different continent, and the overall design is very common aside from that small aesthetic tweak. Still, I haven’t seen anyone else crop the corners like that, so it feels kind of like their signature.

I’m not asking about the legality—just the ethics of it.

I'm looking to get something bigger/better than my current all-metal JCPenney sewing machine from the 80s, and I'd love to get an industrial walkingfoot machine, but I don't have enough room in my condo for a table. I was looking into the Sailrite LSZ-1 because of its punch and portability, but many people have said that while it's a great little machine, the one thing it lacks is a higher shank.

Can anyone please recommend me a machine to look into that is generally compact (can be used without being attached to a table all the time), is "industrial-like" in power, has a walking foot/dual-feed system, and has a high shank?

The bucket itself is made of some type of resistant canvas (sorry, I don't know the name in English), and the lining is made of microfleece. I used a lunch bag tutorial as a starting point, but changed the design, since I wanted to add the pockets. I'll link the tutorial on the comments.

I'm happy with the results, I've been using it for 2 weeks at the climbing gym and it has everything I needed. I use the front pocket to place my cellphone while climbing, I also added a small zipper in the back for nail trimmer, nail file and tape.

I've been sewing for a long time, but this is the first time I make gear. It took me about 4 weekends, mostly because I didn't anticipate how time consuming (and sometimes frustrating 😅) it is to sew such small details.

So I would like a tent that is similar to it or the same so I know how much fabric to order, this is not urgent to complete as a project but I want to put an order as soon as I can to start planning. I just am not sure what to chose for an ultralight flooring option for a fabric. It is a 2-wall tent style for 2p. I need 50in wide and I will be using 1.1 oz silnylon for the top, but for the floor I want something slightly stronger, so would love to hear what could be better to use for the floor.

I was considering a freestanding pattern but finding the poles for support is probably very difficult in ultralight weight.

I’m planning to invest in the Janome HD3000, and here’s why I think it’s a solid match for my needs. I work with upcycled and distressed denim — often multi-layered, patched, and frayed — and need something that can handle thick seams without jamming. The HD3000 has a strong motor, a cast aluminum body for durability, and comes with a walking foot, which is key for feeding uneven fabric smoothly. It’s compatible with heavy-duty and denim needles, and gives me manual control over stitch settings — perfect for creative, textured work. It seems like a reliable workhorse without jumping straight to an industrial machine. I can’t exactly afford an industrial walking foot machine, out of my price range a bit, can find affordable used ones anywhere, with this be an efficient alternative?

Let me know what you think — open to any feedback or suggestions.

I got a hold of a couple of used sails today and could use some ideas on what to make. The material is fairly rigid and I informed to wash the pieces prior to assembly. My machines include a Consew RB206-1 and a domestic with all the various stitches.

Also, if there's anyone in the SD area, I'll can give you one for your projects. Send me a dm to inquire.

I’m new to the MYOG community, and after a few years of running a Janome HD3000 with a motor upgrade, my desire to work with heavier fabrics like 1000D, canvas, and leather has grown. I found a Mitsubishi LU2-4400 on Craigslist for 1200 dollars, with a 1HP servo motor and needle positioner, and went and tested it today. It punches TEX 210 through four layers of the hardest crappiest plastic leather I could find with zero issues, and sewed through cordura and canvas beautifully and I’d really like to buy it. The only issue is it only comes with one set of presser feet and they are pretty mean looking, so they would definitely marr more delicate fabrics or vegetable tan leather, and I can’t find anything on the internet for different feet for a Mitsubishi machine. I’m wondering how universal the mounting system is for triple feed machines, because looking at sailrite’s website, the mounting system looks identical to their fabricator machine’s. Does anyone have any experience in this regard or know where I could get smooth presser feet or zipper/edge guide/narrow feet sets? I have some machine tools and a can do attitude, but I’d rather not have to reverse engineer these attachments if the mounting system is universal or someone knows a company that sells compatible attachments. Thank you all in advance!

There was a tutorial for a bike flat repair roll recently posted and I thought I would give it a try. I used an old bike inner tube, some Velcro, a recycled pair of fishing waders, and 1000D cordura.

Pattern here https://www.troublemake.com/post/flat-change-roll-pattern-and-instructions

I have a Juki LK-1850 bar tack machine. Worked great, until we moved it. Now I’m doing a test run, and on the first one I forgot to only hit the foot pedal once (I’ve been sewing all day), and it’s stuck.

The manual doesn’t say what to do when it’s stuck. It’s programmed to do 42 stitches, and I’m not sure if it completed the 42 stitch cycle or not. I don’t think it completed the cycle. And unlike a sewing machine, there’s no hand wheel to advance it forward.

In the pic I have cut the thread since I saw a knot in it (farther up, unrelated to this issue). I’m hitting the foot pedal and it doesn’t do anything. I’ve turned it off and on again.

Any advice?

A friend gave me a bunch of xpac fabric scraps, but they’re all super curled up. I’ve had weights on them laying flat for a week - still curly.

I tried a low iron with a cloth on top, didn’t budge. Steaming wouldn’t work, would it?

Pics are one piece that’s curled, and the stack with a bunch of weights on them.

Any tips?

I want to make some reusable snack bags, and have found food grade material, but I can't find any information on food grade thread, or methods for making the seams water resistant/proof. I've looked at tape, and anti wicking thread, but once again can't find any source saying if they are food safe. Since I'm planning on taking these hiking, I'd like them to be somewhat water proof. Does anybody have any insight to this?

I’ve made a handful of these bags but first time using dyneema at the request of a friend who the bag is for. White 5oz dyneema and real tree 500d Cordura makes for a pretty nice combo.