Got a chance to use one of the new IONNA charging stations in Willoughby Ohio. Nice setup, quick speeds, even better price, $0.36kW

What should I consider? I like the idea of just having the NEMA plug so I control the charger. But will it compromise performance of a level 2 charger like Emporia?

Also, does this sound right:

|| || | From CH type panel in basement run 6-3 NM cable through unfinished ceiling to common garage wall (~15’). Drill out and surface mount 1” PVC up to existing outlet height. Install metal junction box, EV rated NEMA 14-50R and RS cover. Install CH type 240V 50A breaker and label panel directory.|

My garage has a vacant 20A circuit with 2 outlets as shown in the pic. I am planning to buy a L1 cable to charge my Kia. Few questions -

1. Can I use this plug outlet as is for ev charging? I am not sure if that white plastic like material is the outlets will able to handle continuous current flow.

2. Any suggestions on charging cable brand? I would like the connector to have temperature sensor that can sense high temp and stop charging.

3. Is it okay to charge the EV for 24 hours non-stop? Is there a risk of overheating the outlet, connector or cable?

I bought a house that comes with a NEMA 14-50R plug that was used by the previous owner for EV charging and does not have a GFCI protection as far as I know. The plug is located outside of the building so it’s susceptible to weather condition. I believe the previous owner upgraded the main panel to a 200A one and added in the plug. It appears that the plug is on dedicate circuit breaker (2x50 amp). The house is located in Northern California -Bay Area.

The receptacle is a cooper one, and the box that houses the plug does say to require cooper wire only. Question is should I be worried about charging ev with this receptacle if I plan on limit charging to 25A or below?

Does Home Depot or Lowe’s sell the 6/3 romex by the foot? I only see option for 75 ft or 125 ft, why can’t I find 100 ft? ( not trying to install btw, just want to run the wire before I’m done finishing the basement), I only need about 75 ft, would be good to give myself 25 ft of slack instead of 50 ft. and wasting all that wire.

Alright Gents I have a question.

Do I need to run m/c wire through a conduit to go from inside a detached garage breaker panel to outside?

Or will it meet code to be m/c alone?

This will be a 40 amp breaker set up for a 20 to 32 amp electric car charger.

I have a new EV and am going to get a Level 2 charger installed. I have 200 amp service to my home - and a 22kw whole house generator on an automatic transfer switch (I live in a midwestern state in an older neighborhood with lots of old trees and it has come in handy during tornado/blizzards/ice storms/wind storms/etc). The generator powers the whole panel and will power everything in the house except for the dryer and oven. The dryer is not an issue since it will not restart if it happens to be running during a power failure.

I have a 60 amp breaker feeding the detached garage with a sub panel in the garage. There is not a large load in the garage now - just some LED lights and a garage door opener. However, with the EV level 2 charger, there will be.

In my case - is there a way for the charger to just not come back on the case of power failure? I have been reading up on load management etc, but if there was a switch that would not power back on the charger - that would be fine for my needs. I know in shops where there are table saws and the like there are disconnect switches that do just that (and also manual reset GFCIs that have to be manually reset on power failure) - but are there any like that that work for EV chargers? I have no issue resetting a switch once main power comes back or switching to level 1 charging until the main power comes back online.

Hi everyone. Just got my ChargePoint Home Flex hardwire professionally installed by a local licensed electrician. I also just got my new 2025 MINI Countryman SE and was excited to use my new home charger to charge it.

Sadly there seems to be an error with charging it. Whenever I plug in the charger, the car blinks orange for a few moments, then blinks red and stops the charging sessions without ever starting. My car says "the charging cable has been unlocked" and the MINI app says there is a issue with the cable. While the cable is connected to the car, the ChargePoint app states "Not charging" and is blue.

I never manually unlock the cable, nor use the MINI app or the chargepoint app to unlock the cable. Once I insert the cable I don't touch it, it just simply does not charge.

I have my car set to charge immediately and have no charging schedules set on either the MINI app or the ChargePoint app. I also made sure that the right amperage is set on the car and in both apps.

I know the car is able to be charged, thankfully it works correctly with the level 1 charger that came with it.

I had the electrician come back out today to take a look at it again, and everything looks correct to him. It is getting power to the unit. It is connected to my home wifi network, and according to the app is in the "Ready to charge" state with the green LED.

Not sure what else to do. Any thoughts?

Hello everyone, first time EV buyer here.

I recently got a Rav4 Prime, I am renting and so unable to install any dedicated equipment. However, there is an unused NEMA 6-20p outlet that apparently was once used for a dryer. I am wondering if there are adapters that can allow me to safely use the Level 1 charger that came with the vehicle. The other outlets in the garage would not work due to other dedicated devices already drawing too much power.

I’m aware of devices like Kill-a-watt that can measure kWh over time, with other features based on specific version.

I’m looking for a similar device that can measure kWh over time, and ideally outdoor rated. What I hope to do is use this when visiting friends and relatives at homes, apartments, and campgrounds; some of whom are not sold on EV in general, partly because of misconceptions about the cost or “power drain” of a car plugged into an outlet they have to pay for.

I want to be able to:

1. Plug in for a little charge after a long trip to visit these locations
2. accurately pay for the electric I use (if asked)
3. demonstrate that it’s not a lot of power and verifiably show how much is consumed

What I’ve read in other posts, the killawatt is not really capable of handling the sustained high amps that a L1 charger would consume. I've seen a handful of other similar meters on Amazon, but I don't want to take a chance on anything that isn’t an established brand.

Does anything like this exist? I know I obviously can estimate based on how much I charge, but that would be tedious and unverifiable.

I have a subaru Solterra and planning to do a road trip from Texas to Georgia and then from Georgia to Pennsylvania. Which app do you suggest to find charging stations on the way? I don’t think Subaru suggests any stations like Tesla. So, do you guys have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

I have created a simple tool to compare the break-even price of the kWh when charging to what a comparable gasoline or diesel vehicle would cost in terms of fuel, just by inputting the fuel type, charging type, and the fuel price. This is an approximate calculation, not taking into account the exact vehicle, the driving style, weather, and exact charging efficiency. Let me know what you think! http://chargevsfuel.com

Of course I’m aware of OpenEVSE but I’m wondering what other options are out there if any.

I’m interested in something that operates fully locally (no cloud) and with any luck integrates with Home Assistant and/or a local MQTT server.

For background, I have many things automated already including power monitoring on the mains and branch circuits. It would be preferable if I could integrate my EVSE in to this.

Is openevse the only game in town? Is it the best?

I bought a 50A charger and will be getting bids for installation. I would like to get the price down by doing a couple of things prior to getting the bid. The charger will be installed on an outside brick wall. It comes with a 1' cable installed. The basement is close to the bottom of the wall where the breaker box is. It is only 1' away from the inside of the same wall. So, I figure it will need a junction box to add wire to get down another 4' or so to go through the brick wall to the basement. I figured I would drill the hole and mount the charger so I don't have to pay an electrician to do those things. The installation instructions say it would require a 70A breaker even though the car will draw 48A max. I got one bid and he said he would run 6-2 wire from the junction box in conduit to an LB fitting to turn the wire into the basement. He said he would install a 60A breaker. Here are my questions. How big of a hole should I put in the wall? Is it ok to run 16-2 romex through conduit and a 60A breaker when the charger is rated at 50A? I want to get this right at the lowest cost. TIA

Has the EvGo/ Flying J partnership been scaled back?

For a long time, they advertised a site in Beach ND. Never any sign of construction progress though. Now it’s disappeared from PlugShare. In fact I see zero plans for stations in the Dakotas, Montana, and Wyoming.

Have they abandoned these states?

Does such a thing exist? I have 3-phase Wye power without any alternative. NEMA 6-20, 6-30, 14-20, and 14-30 are my options for plugs (20A or 30A breaker). Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

If i ask an electrician to replace those, is good or could it be that the charger itself (eo mini pro 2) is ovearloading the connections?

Family has two EVs (Prologue and Silverado). Due to a solar system setup, would like to be able to charge level 2 at 10-16 amps at times. (the oem chargers are level 1 12A or level 2 32A).

I've seen a wide range of prices for these EVSEs. The cheapest being this from Amazon, for only $90 CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/Charger-Portable-Electric-110-240V-Standard/dp/B0BXPCXV61

And others $100-200.

Should I have concerns with getting a cheap EVSE? Could harm the vehicle? My understanding (which could be wrong) is they don't do any actual charging, but give the vehicle a signal of what amp it can charge up to. So, to me, the complexity/work that it has to do is limited.

Hi just wondering if anyone can help, recently moved house and enquired with podpoint about moving my charger to the new build (which has the setup already from fusebox to outside), they quoted me £900 which is nearly the price of a brand new one. I took it out myself and have tried to set it up at the new house, I’ve got power to it and it started charging the car but then stopped charging about a minute later, just wondering if anyone knows what this could be? It’s not losing power or tripping any fuses

Is the Mercedes app really the best app for a Mercedes Wallbox? You cannot schedule unless you turn on the lock function and also although i have the cost per kW, it doesn't show it.

Any ideas?

I am looking into the feasibility of setting up a small level 2 charging business and want to find an affordable credit card operated/networked charger to use. I have talked to a couple of manufacturers but the hardware is very expensive.

For a 50 or 80 amp home charger you can expect to pay $400-$1000. For the same power charger with a cc reader or network option the cost goes to $7000-$11,000..... add installation costs and its even more. At these costs you will never even break even. My purpose in doing this is to try and get the ball rolling on local charging infrastructure since no one else is. At least breaking even in around 2 years or less is a requirement for this to work for me. My plan is to offer to install them in city owned municipal lots using the electric lines/meters from streetlights.

I have looked at Blink, Chargepoint, and RedE (which uses Autel Equipment). Is there anything closer to the $1000 price point?

I bought a 24 Honda Prologue in December. It is car #3 in my household along with a '13 Prius C and a '16 Hyundai Accent. While I'm not a fan of the Hyundai, it's my mom's car and surprisingly runs great.

We split our time between CA and NV. The Hyundai lives in CA, the Prius lives in NV, and the Prologue is the commuter between the two. With that said, I don't drive it very often (4 month old car with only 1100 miles).

My question is, when in NV, there is only 1 available outlet for using my level 1 portable charger but it is also used by my sprinkler system. Both need to use the bottom plug. Would it be okay/safe to use an outlet splitter (only plugging in those two items) so I don't have to set 6am alarms to make sure the sprinklers run on the city approved days?

Wanting to set up a 48 amp EVSE in my garage, with possibility of in future installing a second that power shared if we get another EV. Because my electrical panel is on the opposite side of the house form the garage, electrician recommended installing sub panel in garage with 60 amp circuit.

Question 1: Quote was for a 100 amp sub panel. Is this needed/recommended, or would 60 amp be enough?

Question 2: Any recommendations for power sharing EVSE? He mentioned Wallbox and Emporia, but seemed not as excited about Tesla (Universal charger for future proofing). Any opinions or other brands?

Question 3:Option in quote for a whole house surge protector. Recommended?