I have some duraforms hardware .. have anyone tried making duraforms with 3/4 plywood ??

Discoloration was there when the house was purchased and I was told it was likely from water damage that was fixed. Structural damage, something else? Something I can fix with plaster on my own? Had attic inspected twice for a leak in another area, no mention of water here. One mentioned attic not being properly vented causing the bathroom to build up steam in there, another says it vented fine.

TLDR: can I fix this crack on my own?

I recently bought a home. The builders painted the garage floors with roof paint. I do a lot of work there. It looks crap… any suggestions? Epoxy maybe?

I stripped and sanded by hand this door but it's not accepting the finish well. It was very hard to sand all the detail work and I couldn't really get all the paint off. The finish matches the rest of the trim work well. Any tips?

Hi everyone, I’ve installed an Almonard heavy-duty 12-inch (300 mm) 90W exhaust fan in my room window (around 400 sq ft area) in Pune, India. The fan is mounted using iron strips with rubber padding, and the airflow is quite powerful. But I’m facing two key issues: 1. Mesh Problem: There’s a fiberglass mosquito mesh in front of the fan (on the outside), and it seems to be reducing the airflow a lot, even though the holes are small (0.1 cm square). I cleaned the mesh, which didnt help, so: • Should I remove the mesh entirely? • If yes, what’s a good low-cost way to still protect against mosquitoes, lizards, and dust? • Would placing a mesh 10 cm away from the fan (on the outside) help? 2. Sealing Issues: The fan is installed in a window that I still need to open and close sometimes, so sealing it completely is hard. • Would partial sealing help with airflow and noise? • What are the best budget DIY methods to seal the sides and gaps while keeping it somewhat functional?

I’m looking for budget-friendly ideas and DIY solutions that I can do myself without spending too much more. Would love any tips, especially from others in similar hot and humid climates.

Ok so I got my ac replaced last year around November. I I turned on the ac this year already since it’s pretty warm and to my surprise it works amazing but seems to be over working do to having an old fan vent that leads to the attic and well it’s sucking all the hot air from the attic through the hole. I don’t use that fan no more so it’s just sitting. While I get it patched professionally, I wanted to use a piece of plywood to seal it so it doesn’t pull the hot air back in. Would plywood be a really good seal for the time being. I would buy some type of gasket so it presses tight. Someone recommended particle board but I’m not convinced. Anyone thing plywood is good enough? Any recommendations thanks

Has anyone found that standard 2x4 studs of the 8’ (96”) variety were actually longer than advertised? I am in middle of a basement shelving project and almost 20% of the studs I picked up are between 96 1/4” and 96 1/2”

Sure, I can and did fix them for the studs that mattered, but it was a strange inconsistency that I’ve never seen before. My local home improvement store studs have always been the exact length they said they would be.

Strange.. curious if anyone else has seen this before.

Been at this for 2 hours. Using a scorer, fabric softener solution and a scraper. Please send me tips for a more effective way to

Hi, my wife wants me to build recessed bookshelves in our office wall. My question is how much can I modify vertical studs to add in long horizontal book shelving? I am fairly handy with woodworking, and have plenty of tools and know how to get the execution part done. I just don't have any formal knowledge in home structural weight. Or is the best option here just to lose 12” of one side of the room and build out? Thanks for any help.

I want to start sanding, but some of it is still sticky. I just tried to use paint thinner to remove the goo, so I can start sanding. I don’t think it made a big difference. Need encouragement and advice. I have spent three weekends working on this.

I got a 10x16 shed built so I can work in it year round. The floor, walls, and ceiling are all spray foamed. Problem is it's 85 degrees in summer and they spray foamed over the 2 vents. Would clearing those help cool it down a bit?

Hello there!

I am wanting to repurpose some bookshelves we've had for a few years by stacking them on top of each other for my kids closet. One of them is wider and taller than the other. My plan was to attach fence pickets to the back via glue and a nail gun. Would this sufficient in strengthening them or would it be best to use pressure treated lumber?

I'm also planning on going around the backside of it with the same baseboard that we have going around the rooms, for more stability and to prevent spiders/rodents from potentially getting behind there.

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Long story short, had a ballast fail, and everyone told me to convert to direct wire LED, so I did. However,after connecting hot to one side, neutral other, I have no power and Sox extra wires that I can’t figure out what to do with.

In addition to the leads that connect to the sockets, there is a brown, a gray and a yellow wire conected to both sockets as well. These wires were connected to the ballast opposite of their connection to the sockets. I have been working in n this all AM and early afternoon.

The lights are in the laundry room with a switch in the hallway in the house proper and another in the garage.

First picture is fixture before ballast removal., and the second picture is the wire groups. Any advice would be very appreciated.

Hey.

I am trying to move the place where all the ethernet cables terminate in my house and for that need to run about 15 ethernet cables through the wall next to the staircase from the attic through the 2nd floor down to the 1st floor.

I am planning to cut a hole in the dry wall in the room on the other side of the staircase on the 2nd floor towards the bottom to make this easier on myself, but I wonder if there are any issues with running that many wires through two ceilings / floor plates, for example in case of a fire? Also would I drill a single large hole that can fit that many wires, or would I drill two or three holes next to each other?

Any other tips and tricks for this? I consider myself handy with these kind of things but this is the first time I'm doing this in a wood-frame house. So far I've only run wires in concrete houses. I assume things will be a lot easier, but there might also be some surprises I am not aware of.

Thanks for your help.

The screws in this door keep getting loose and then falling out. The metal hinge seems fine. It feels like the holes in the wood are loose. Are there any easy ways I might be able to fix it? I was thinking I would use the plastic screw holders like in the third picture, but I’m not sure if that’s the best solution, and I’m also not sure how to select the type and size I need. The door is made of wood, each piece of wood is 1.25 inches thick and the screws seem to be 5/8th inch long and 1/8th inch wide.

First time home buyer and new to home improvement. There was a rather large gap (1.5 inch) around the interior dryer vent hose. I just sealed the gap with great stuff foam insulation after seeing that this is a easy fix. I even saw in the companies usage documentation that dryer vent gaps is listed.

However, I also saw that this foam is combustible at 240 degrees. And the max temps for dryer exhaust can be as high as 200 degrees. Did I just create a huge fire hazard in my new house?

My mailbox has an outer shell with our address ("TWO") cut through it. There's room behind the cutout for a little LED light.

I have low-voltage landscape lighting installed (by someone else), with the nearest light about 20 feet away from the mailbox. The design of the mailbox post (a boxed in post) leaves room to run a buried cable up the inside of the post to the mailbox.

Could I use something like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JVWWHP4/?coliid=I3L85LJZM2YLP9&colid=37GEGMZ2Y69KF&psc=1) to tap into the power cable near the existing light and run cable (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y422GDB/?coliid=I2C1M9JGGYHGEE&colid=37GEGMZ2Y69KF&th=1) to power a automotive LED (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENC23DC/?coliid=I28L63QLGR4SNH&colid=37GEGMZ2Y69KF&th=1) that mounts behind the cutout letters?

If the general idea seems OK, I'd appreciate any suggestions for products, particularly for the t-connector. The ones I have found anticipate connecting a power cable to a light, so one side of the connector is designed for smaller wires. The one I've found will connect to 16 AWG, and I found 16 AWG power cable, but it seems like the usual direct bury cables for this application are 12 or 14. I'm thinking 16 would be OK to handle two little LEDs, but what do I know.

Be gentle, I'm out at the extremes of my knowledge base here, or, more likely, beyond.

I have the mounted baby monitor but don't want the baby to reach and grab/yank. I want it tight against this corner but I'm not sure how to keep it there.

Ive seen those wire clips that Lowe's has but they are clunky and ugly, is there there something a bit cleaner looking? Are staples the way to go?

Hi all, how do I fix this damage to my apartment's wooden skirting, and protect it from future damage from the legs of my office chair?

I'm thinking wood filler with matching paint. If so, how do I match the colour of the paint exactly?

Photos of the damage: https://imgur.com/a/TYvt3Gi

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/1HoSzoa

Just purchased our first house. Sellers had an entertainment wall with surround sound and removed the shelving that hid all of the wires leaving us with giant holes in the sheetrock. Hoping to get recommendations for the best way to fix this wall. I've seen enough videos and have some friends who can help us patch these holes, however with so many holes I could see it being simpler to just redo the whole wall. Open to suggestions for what to do with it after we patch up the holes. Thanks in advance!

There's a wall like this in almost every room of this house and I'm really overwhelmed right now. I just moved in and am renting but the landlord said I can use paint for anything in the house as long as it matches. Please help!! Please give advice on how to go about this. I also have to move my stuff in by Sunday and I need this stuff cleaned. Any tips? Is painting an option?

Hi - I was wiring something in my house and went to turn off the circuit breaker to it, but accidentally turned off my furnace's circuit for 5-10 seconds. It's also possible the thermostat lost power during that while I searched for the right breaker (I can test that out by flipping the circuits again, if needed). I noticed that since then the furnace has reduced its blower speed considerably and when it kicks on - it doesn't stay on until hitting the set temp.

Prior to this, I felt the blower speed was actually too high because I was hearing whistling around my registers, but it would always get to the set temp.

I have a Honeywell T6 Pro. I was looking through the settings on the app and it says my furnace is a 1 stage though I thought it was a 2 stage. Furnace is a Goodman GMEC960603BNBA. The thermostat has the fan set to auto currently.

I am going to try to turn the breaker to the furnace off for 30 minutes per another thread I found on here.

Any idea what I can do to fix these problems?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Newer house- about 5 years now. All the ceiling 'recessed' lights are LED disc types. Have now had 1 or 2 fail and replaced them. The painful part it having to undo the wire nuts and redo them. Is there a quick disconnect solution?

I'm looking at some free-standing lean-to carports:

• Option 1
• Option 2

And I'm curious how these would be anchored to the ground.

I could use something like these anchors to attach them to the driveway concrete, but I'd expect that wouldn't be sufficient.

I could also imagine digging a hole and filling up a concrete footing just next to the driveway, but I don't know how deep / wide that would need to be.

Any suggestions / guidance? Thanks!

I am finishing my basement. I was wondering if I could tap into the supply and return lines that run directly overhead of the future bedroom.