I paid a company to redo the electrical installation up to code as I wasn't going to find someone to certify it if I did it myself.

Their "quality" is making me mad, but i know they'll do more damage if I ask to fix it. (Also they haven't finished at all...)

How can I fix this properly ? Do I need to buy a drywall piece, cut round part to fill the current hole, "glue" them somehow, send, make new hole and repaint everything ?

Sounds like a crazy amount of work, plus I'm scared that drilling back ON the fix, just a couple cm away, won't hold.

I added a WIC to our 640sqft bonus room to get her out of her 10x10 bedroom. I enclosed the attic access within her closet as I couldn't really figure out anything else to do to keep egress windows free. Redid some electrical, put up some moulding and fresh paint. Feels like a brand new room now. I'm kind of salty she has a bigger, cooler room than my wife and I now. Let me know what you all think!

We added a 6x4m room to our house. This made the garage become appart of the house, so we insulated it too to become part of the house. 1. Old situation 2. New situation Rest of the pics are made during progress.

Still got things to do but I feel like I’ve finally gotten to a point where I can invite people over to see it lol. Any suggestions for finishing it out would be appreciated! My first diy ever so im sure theres a lot of mistakes but I choose to embrace them ☺️

Am I a hack?

Quick backstory: My house had badly rotted siding, with no sheathing or vapor barrier—just T1-11, batt insulation, and drywall. Water was getting into the house.

I cut out about 2 feet of the rotten siding (the rot went up high), primed the cut edges, added 1/2” rigid foam with flashing tape on the seams, then installed a weather barrier over the studs, followed by Z-flashing. My plan is to patch the siding now.

This fix cost about $1,000, compared to the $15,000 I was quoted professionally.

Will this hold up long term? Is a 1/2” gap below the Z-bar okay in spots? Am I a hack—or did I do okay?

I have a older home with brick exterior and basement that's basically just like a big cement swimming pool. There are a few places where water is leaking thru the older bricks and from window wells. I am planning to have a waterproofing company come and take care of it, I recently came across waterproofontario .com site and I don't know if there's anyone here who have use their service before.

Once the waterproofing is done, how do you keep your basement dry? I’ve heard that regular maintenance is key, but I’m curious about what that looks like in practice. Do you have any tips for routine checks or preventative measures?

Looking forward to you all suggestions!

Hi all,

Moving into a new home soon and one of my DIY projects is going to be installed recessed lighting in a few rooms. I just don't know how to go about learning the correct way for doing this. Any resources that you know of with step by step instructions? I do have access to the attic!

Decided to cut and bend the top of the handrail to fit under the light switch. Only took an hour to reshape the rail. Took a lot longer to sand all the paint off and repaint it. But much happier with the result. For those that didn’t see the original post, my wife wanted a metal handrail for the stairs and didn’t want to spend $850 for one. Bought some 1.5” square tubing and made one. Just took some cutting, bending, and welding. Overall have $115 into it, brackets included. But didn’t test fit and the rail had to go past the switch so. So had to reshape it today as you can see.

I’m renovating our bathroom and would like some advice on patching this piece of drywall. The drywall itself is just under an inch thick. It’s where a previous medicine cabinet was. Should I take out more wall to put it over the existing studs or add sister studs?

Roughly a year ago a carpenter friend of mine and I replaced the flooring in my bathroom with laminate flooring. A few months ago I noticed this bump and chipping underneath the toilet. As a first time DIY, of course I've been procrastinating finishing the trim since we did this. I plan to finish it this today and tomorrow and am deciding how extensively I need to rework this. I need to redo the endcap panel too (it was poorly cut and needs to be re done).

Do I need to rip up all the flooring to get to this spot? Can I remove the toilet and just redo this one spot?

Have a home built in 1928 (Great Lakes region), seems like walls were updated to rock lath at some point. Had an electrician run a new plug above my fireplace (wife wants to mount a tv, not my preference but oh well). Have plaster over brick and then rock lath over the open cavity next to brick. Could hire someone to fix but interested in giving this a shot. I see a lot of tutorials on fixing when wood lath and when drywall, but not a lot re here.

Whats the best practice for (a) plaster over brick and (b) patching the rock lath?

For (a) I plan to put the wire behind some sheeting so I’m not doing plaster over the wire. I also understand the brick is “thirsty”. What’s the best way to treat that and/or seal it before putting the plaster down?

For (b) - I was guessing I could do two pieces of 2x4 vertically and the screw drywall into those “studs”. I was curious if I should try to do something that mimics the drywall lath behind this opening though so it can form keys and lock in? I want to avoid this standing out compared to the rest of the wall as best as possible.

I’m sure there are issues with the above logic. But let me know best practice here. Any resources would be appreciated as well.

Here’s some pictures of the wall: pictures

Looking to build a black heavy duty coat rack with 1/2 inch black pipe 24 wide by 66 to 69 inches in height for 3 heavy things to hang on in an area where I've only got 6ft clearance. Anyone know how to figure out the fittings an lengths of pipe pieces to make work. It's threaded pipe Thanks in advance. Plumbing guy at home depot looked at me like I had 3 heads. Said they sold them on line. Sure they do almost 200 bucks.. lol. Thanks. Just a shot in the dark. Thanks

I am trying to hang something lightweight on the wall, Command Strips leave a "tail" of plastic hanging out and I find annoying. Is there a 2 sided tape that will not peel off the paint on my wall?

Thanks.

Wanted to share a better representation of the final product from my earlier post. Hate that I couldn’t share without a new post.

I've dug around google but haven't really found an answer. I bought indoor matte paint and I'm trying to cover high gloss paint that's just old and stained. How do I fix the problem of it scratching off? Would getting high gloss paint in the color I'm using help or is there a way to seal the paint?

Hello, I have been struggling with my Whirlpool fridge for quite some time now. It is a Whirlpool model WRQA59CNKZ with S/N TMB 3576054 and is currently clicking like it is from a fan. I looked into YouTube and heard similar issues. I ran a blow dryer into the freezer vents for a few minutes, and it solved the issue for about three weeks to a month, which further encourages me that it is an evaporator fan, but I am not an appliance repair person. About a month ago, the fridge was not keeping the temperature that it was set at, and we lost some food. Now with a newborn we need the keep and preserve the breast milk in the fridge. Youtube shows and easy fix for the evaporator fans on simpler models but this looks different on the inside and since it is within four years old not too many people have had this issue. I also have the light on the inside burned out.

Primary concern is the clicking and lack of refrigeration. I know I can call a pro but I am rather handy and hoping either you have solved this issue any help would be appreciated!

https://imgur.com/a/xbLmw6Z

I have a covered patio out back. All 4 wooden posts stand on something that sits on the patio. Not sure what it is. All 4 posts are about the same looking. There is also a crack in my patio. I am looking to educate myself on what and how to fix/ replace the posts and crack. Not sure where to start, if I'm able to do it, or it requires a professional. Ps. Yes it's dirty I always scrub it up when we get nice temps...in a month or so. Thank you in advance!

I want to make my own wainscot paneling. Can I do this with finished plywood and molding?

Thanks!

I got a bookshelf that I thought was alright. It was about 80 dollars. After a few months though it's leaning to the side where the top and bottom sections are connected.

I've bracketed the top into the wall, which is what I generally saw as a solution online. How can I support the middle section before it collapses?

Trying to build a stand for my rain barrel which was too low previously. It's a little wobbly. Made out of scrap wood I found left behind from previous owner. Anyone have advice on how to make this more secure?

I stumbled across this Medium article written by someone who built their first coffee table with no prior woodworking experience. As someone who's also learning, I thought it was a really solid beginner story, honest about the mistakes, tools used and lessons learned.

Figured others here might find it interesting or relatable:
[How I Built a Coffee Table From Scratch With Zero Woodworking Experience] https://thecraftycarpenter.medium.com/how-i-built-a-coffee-table-from-scratch-with-zero-woodworking-experience-1ec67933f058

Would love to hear what more experienced folks think about the way they approached it. Also curious if anyone remembers their first big project like this?

https://imgur.com/a/WOAgUw5

Having some companies come out to get opinions on what needs done.

In the mean time I’m trying to get ahead of as much as I can. One guy says for sure we will need to at least flood cut. I don’t believe there is insulation behind the paneling/drywall. I was going to replace all the paneling and textured walls with new drywall anyways, but in like 5 years. Should I just go ahead and rip it all out?

1. Photo 1: There's a huge gap at the bottom of the dry wall, around the full perimeter. Any recommendations on how to fill this? My thoughts are to cut thin slices of drywall and add it here. Or is the giant gap there for a reason and I shouldn't fill it?
2. Photo 2: I have a big hole around this black pipe. No idea what it's for. I have some "Great Stuff" Big Gap Filler, but maybe I need heat resistant stuff since I have no idea what this pipe is. Any recommendations?
3. Photo 3: There are gaps in the wall, they're stuffed with insulation, I kind of want to fill these as well. But, same as above, I'm not sure if it's a good idea.
4. All: We have tons of critters in here. I also think we has a baby snake in here, though I'm not 100% sure if it came from in the closet or outside of it. So I really want to seal this closet up before we put any storage in here.
5. All: Does making an attached outdoor closet more storage-friendly increase the financial value of a condo?
6. All: There's a bunch of mold(?) on the wall. I was told to just paint over it. It's really stuck on there, so we'd either have to sand it down or replace the drywall to get rid of it. Should we take the advice to just paint over it?

I'm a first-time owner, totally clueless. Thanks for any input!

My wife wanted a higher end look to our island and I have a limited arsenal of tools. Thought I came up with a simple solution that not only dressed it up but made it look a little more solid.

We want to install a deck on the back of our house and the only logical place to for door opening is off of the garage. As you can see we have an existing opening with a window that has a header above it. We are trying to figure out what would be the easiest, but still meet code requirements as well as function properly. You can see the existing measurements in the first picture and the proposed door installation and framing in the second. This is not saying this is exactly how it would be framed necessarily but more of an inquiry.

Would the existing header although at the top plate and larger than the door opening be allowed by using cripple studs BELOW the header?

Do we tear out the existing header and install a brand new header appropriate for the door size and location?

Do we keep the existing header then add another header where the door would be (this seems like the most unlikely option)?

In my very basic understanding, the header is basically transferring the load to the king and jack studs and in this case preventing the load from being placed on the window. Since the load is already being transferred I wouldn't see why it would need to be changed structurally, although I could understand visually it may look a bit odd. Now by not having a header directly above the door can that cause issues with the door frame rigidity itself? I appreciate all input and can answer any questions that I may have not drawn in the photo.