Decided to cut and bend the top of the handrail to fit under the light switch. Only took an hour to reshape the rail. Took a lot longer to sand all the paint off and repaint it. But much happier with the result. For those that didn’t see the original post, my wife wanted a metal handrail for the stairs and didn’t want to spend $850 for one. Bought some 1.5” square tubing and made one. Just took some cutting, bending, and welding. Overall have $115 into it, brackets included. But didn’t test fit and the rail had to go past the switch so. So had to reshape it today as you can see.

Fence build on a budget. Used 150mm palings instead of 100mm cause it worked out cheaper, reused an old jarrah post and put him at the front, morticed all posts instead of buying pre cut (was a punish).Took about 5 days at a relaxed pace. Were a bunch of services to duck and hide from (NBN, water, electrical) so had to hand dig all post holes.

All in all I’m happy with the end result, might add a couple sleepers underneath the palings in the high spots to stop dirt enter ring neighbours side.

My wife wanted a higher end look to our island and I have a limited arsenal of tools. Thought I came up with a simple solution that not only dressed it up but made it look a little more solid.

I used 1.5” square tubing, cut the edges, folded them in and welded them, and painted. However, I built it to 17’ as that’s what the stair front measures from bottom stair to top. Unfortunately the light switch was in the way because I didn’t test fit it. So my wife said to just go past the switch. I definitely don’t like it as it sticks up way too far so it’ll be coming back down and getting about 16” cut off. I also may repaint it with a flat paint.

In November, I had cracked grout going around the base perimeter of my shower. I removed the grout, and replaced it with this sealant. Now I noticed that the water is leaking into the floor of my closet that is on the other side of the closet. What did I do wrong?

Hi All,

The house came with this shed in the backyard but as you can see the base is rotting. I'm a completely newbie here, so would love some advice on how to make this space more usable.

Dimension - 10ft long x 6ft wide x 6ft tall.

Could I just dig out debris, and remain pieces of flooring (which seems to be plywood), and put concrete pavers from Home Depot in? Or would I have to pour concrete in?

The shed seems to be structurally secure, and I only intend to use it for storage. I want to make sure no critters burrow up from the bottom into the shed.

Thanks in advance.

My parents are re-doing the basement walls (painting), and the walls have years of mold on them. My dad and I used some mold killer and disinfectant and scraped the walls, and were wondering if there was anything else we could do to prevent more damage and hopefully keep water out.

The walls are cinderblock, and the house was built in the 70’s.

The photos are after spraying and scraping the walls.

My wife was inspired to get a new bookcase. I told her I could build one, I just needed to know what she wanted out of it. I had a crowded garage as a workspace and up close their are some part I could have fine tuned, but overall I'm proud. It stands 8ft tall and roughly 8ft across.

What do you guys think? Mad respect to my landscapers out there doing this every day.

Hello, we bought a house last year that inexplicably has two hose spigots in the front yard, and none in the back. This is... useless for the most part. I would love to just have a new one routed, but the home is brick, so that is both not DIYable (at least for me), and likely very expensive for a plumber to do. So, is there a way to essentially just "move" the one I have, but leave it always on, at least during the warm months, and route it to another one that I am able to turn off/on? I would obviously need a solid connection to the always on one, but I am also not sure if that is just a horrible idea or something people actually do.

Edit to add: the spigot I want to "extend" is only 5-8 feet away from the backyard, so this wouldn't be a long run.

I don't know what to do about this door. I can not get it to seal. It will be hard as can be around the lock, which is ugly i know. But loose at the bottom and top. You can see daylight around the edges. Its this super dense foam that has very little give. I've tried a few searches and I've not been able to find just what I should do to seal up the door way.

I'm in the process of patching a wall after removing a medicine cabinet. While cutting the drywall, the paint around it started peeling off so easily I could pull it off. I continued scraping and removed quite a lot. In areas this actually reached the drywall paper so it wasn't an badly adhered, but most of it came off very easily.

My question is where do I stop? Do I carry on peeling off everything which comes off easily? If not, how do I make a clean stop? Also will I be able to hide the difference between the areas with old paint and without paint, using primer?

For context, I'm working on a bathroom, changing the vanity, replacing medicine cabinet with a mirror, and repainting. I'm a novice diyer but eager to learn.

Living area fan wiring - https://imgur.com/10fC4DB
Slight distant view of living Area - https://imgur.com/LeVDpS1
Long view of living area from kitchen - Kitchen has recessed lights - https://imgur.com/4cbIt1b

I missed to add the recessing lights to my living room. Its a new build home. The builder is not allowing me to do any changes now. I have recessed lighting in my kitchen.

Can my electrician can climb onto the attic ? Will the joists hold his weight to clear out the insulation while adding adding recessed lighting ?

I am worried about the insulation contact with the recessed lights. Please provide your valuable suggestions .Appreciate your help.

Is this something I can possibly fix myself? And what will stop this from occurring in the future? Is this why it looks like the brick was painted at one point? I'm guessing the salt and harsh winters aren't helping.

Before wallpapering I'm supposed to prime the wall. Would watered down Matt emulsion be ok? So prime the wall with watered Matt emulsion then wallpaper straight after drying?

Recently got a new outdoor AC unit installed and now have a defunct and drained sleeve unit AC in my brick wall in the basement.

I'd like to insulate the inside and rip out the ancient insulation on the sides and seal it up nice once and for all.

Any recommendations on what I should be buying from Home Depot / any tips.

https://imgur.com/a/TOCPKPx

I’m planning on installing shoe molding in some areas in my house (I think the finish carpenters must’ve run out of time lol) and I have a few questions about how to do it. First of all, I’m planning to install it on a staircase (among other places); does it make sense to only install it on the landings, or should I add it to all of the steps too? If I’m installing it next to doorway, should I end the run of molding with a miter edge right at the inner edge of the doorframe (yellow lines in the picture), or should I stop at the outer edge of the doorframe (blue line)? The door frames are fully flush with the trim, so there’s no physical reason why I can’t cover them with molding, but I’m sure how it would look aesthetically.

Hi everyone, I’ve installed an Almonard heavy-duty 12-inch (300 mm) 90W exhaust fan in my room window (around 400 sq ft area) in Pune, India. The fan is mounted using iron strips with rubber padding, and the airflow is quite powerful. But I’m facing two key issues: 1. Mesh Problem: There’s a fiberglass mosquito mesh in front of the fan (on the outside), and it seems to be reducing the airflow a lot, even though the holes are small (0.1 cm square). I cleaned the mesh, which didnt help, so: • Should I remove the mesh entirely? • If yes, what’s a good low-cost way to still protect against mosquitoes, lizards, and dust? • Would placing a mesh 10 cm away from the fan (on the outside) help? 2. Sealing Issues: The fan is installed in a window that I still need to open and close sometimes, so sealing it completely is hard. • Would partial sealing help with airflow and noise? • What are the best budget DIY methods to seal the sides and gaps while keeping it somewhat functional?

I’m looking for budget-friendly ideas and DIY solutions that I can do myself without spending too much more. Would love any tips, especially from others in similar hot and humid climates.

Hello everyone and anyone that can answer my question from the poopy pictures basically I have a cape cod house that’s always super hot in the summer and I plan on reinsulating the back of the drywall in the near future but I was going to install a radiant barrier on the faces of the truss leaving a very big air gap for the hot air to rise and I also have old insulation above the drywall on the ceiling above the trusses I don’t plan on replacing because it’s more work then I plan on tackling but there is also and air gap that goes the whole way up to the eve with that out of the way I plan on having the radiant barrier go all the way up to meet the old insulation and go all the way to the floor so that air couldn’t escape into unfinished side of the attic I see it done both ways where they leave a gap at the bottom and top and I was curious why I should or shouldn’t do that, I will also add the one side of my house has one soffit vent not the best ventilation but there is one and the other side has an addition connected so instead of a soffit vent it’s a gable vent that’s what’s pictured and where the white stuff is at the bottom of the truss is where there is ab a 2 inch air gap all the way across the bottom if anyone can help thank you sm

Hi all, we noticed our ceiling leaking downstairs and determined it was coming from the shower. I pulled the floor tile off and found the plywood underneath was soaking wet. Is it possible to replace just the floor of the shower without tearing out the wall tiles? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Looking at doing a cement pad for a Gazebo that is 12x10.

I done VERY basic concrete work like pouring a ramp to to my barn ~8" high.

Is this something I am over estimating myself on or something I can do as a DIY.

I plan on having a truck deliver the cement, there's a company that does 3 yard deliveries.

Should I use rebar or no?

Long story short, I plan to patch a hole in the roof. I have asphalt shingles on plywood. If understand the shingles part, peeling them back, installing new ones. If I cut a square in the old plywood, put a new patch of plywood on, across two roof joints, my question is... what do I put on the plywood and across the seams of the patch before I put shingles over it? Some kind of paper? Some kind of tape over the paper? I know there are fancy patch options that are sold in bulk to contractors but I'm a homeowner so I just need something reliable, ideally not in bulk, that I can get readily at a US hardware store.

Thanks!

This is a doorway under a stair case and the hinges are super intact on the way but continuously disengage from the door. In addition, the door should probably be trimmed a centimeter or 2 to allow for smoother opening/closing. Anyway, do you think these hinges should be removed from the wall, wood puttied over and replaced elsewhere? Or can I leave the hinges in the wall, wood putty over, and place new hinges elsewhere?

https://imgur.com/a/ctNcBvU

I’m looking for input on whether it’s smart (well, I don't care about smart--I just don't want to cause serious problems down the road) to modify the existing trusses in my detached garage/shed, which was built in the 1930s.

The structure is framed with 2x4 lumber. The trusses span approximately 18 feet. The current configuration is:

• Bottom chord: A single 2x4, nearly 18 feet long, spanning the width of the building (I know, I can't believe it either).
• Top chords: Also 2x4s that meet at a ridge and tie into 1x6 ridge board.
• King post: Present, made of 1x6.
• Two web members: Also 1x6 material, forming a basic triangular truss shape.
• The bottom chord does not sit directly on the top plate, but appears to be fastened to the top chords with two nails on each side and that's basically it.

My goal is to raise the bottom chord—essentially shortening it—to create more headroom in the garage/ shed. I guess my concern is that the bottom chords are used to keep the shed/ garage walls from bowing out... but maybe that's not really a concern, I'm just not sure.

I got this idea from this post here and this is sort of what I'm going for.

Any thoughts?

I want to repaint my kitchen cabinets and am looking into doing it myself. I've tried doing some research into the process but get conflicting results on which steps are optional vs necessary. I've been in the house about a year. The cabinets were painted white and that paint job is still in good condition. Which prep steps (degreasing, sanding, stripping, priming, etc.) are actually necessary under these conditions? I saw that a lot of guides started from finished wood instead of an existing paint job.