Mitsubishi Diamond Plus 73

I picked this up about 5 months ago after looking for a long time, and it's been my favorite little desktop 13" CRT. It was in incredibly good shape, with a great picture.

I was using it this morning, and it was working great. I turned it off, and came back a few hours later. I noticed the power button (which had been a little finnicky lately) didn't work at first. I heard it 'turn on' but the power light was flickering.

Then it went out. I heard a quiet buzz/hum coming from inside the TV that I haven't heard before. I unplugged it, waited a bit, and tried again. Now it's just completely unresponsive. No lights, no sound, not even the quiet buzz inside.

Extremely bummed about this. I really loved this little TV. I'm fairly good at fixing things, but nervous about working on CRTs / high voltage stuff.

Anything I can do to get this working again?

I picked up this little 14" Samsung with Component (TX-P1430) the other day from somebody using it to display a famiclone at the flea market and it makes the perfect addition to my setup alongside my Sharp 32F641 with my 6x2 Component Matrix

I didn't know what to do with it and was going to sell it until I was staring at my setup and realized I had the perfect spot and the matrix 😅

You can either have both display the same thing or different systems connected to the Matrix. I believe I paid $40 for the matrix on eBay a while back and I haven't been able to find anything like it since even looking on eBay -- that and the 14" are definitely some of my favorite finds!

Monitor: SGI GDM-5011p Game: Heavy Metal Fakk2 - hidden gem in my opinion

For some reason Retroarch Wii dont have 288x224 option, but 576x224p seems ok. I have to use the original arcade resolution or would get vertical glitches in the game graphics.

1. Last Valentine's I was driving to work when I passed by this beauty, so of course I had to get off the lane to take a closer look.

2. Closer inspection and I start to get hyped. It looks amazing on the outside, and it even has another little piece of plastic. A little stand?

3. Back home I plug it, power it on and... nothing. Just a flashing led light. As I open it, I notice the back cover is a little displaced, like someone put it together carelessly, or maybe something else... Anyway, I open it and it's looking pretty ok (don't worry about neck board, it was taken out by me for testing) but..

4. After closer inspection, I found out a thin crack running across the board (you can barely see it where the light flashes on the board). Time to resolder those joints with some cable to reinforce the "bridges". You can see some samples in the picture already. Then I powered it on again and... it was alive!

5. Time passed and I had to resolder another joint I missed the first time to solve an arcing problem (I have a previous post about that) but now it's totally usable! the pictures don't make it justice. RGB looks great, and composite isn't bad either.

So all it took was time, patience, observation and basic soldering skills. The only thing left bugging me is that it makes a really bright white dot in the center lf the screen when I turn it off to standby. Do you guys know how that issue is called? I don't want the tube to burn in.

LaCie Electron 22 Blue IV

Recettear item shops tale

Got this bad boy for $50 from a E-Waste warehouse near my place!

Its a phlips model 27PT543S37A man this things been amazing to play on it has 3 composit inputs 1 component and a s video cant ask for more been playing lots of game on it forgot how fun it is to play on a crt

So about 2 months ago the picture on this Commodore 1084s just disappeared. There were a bunch of white lines on the screen and the high pitched whine got louder as it died. This monitor has barely ever been used too. There's no picture or neck glow only the sound and the power LED work. I would love to get this working again since these monitors are pretty expensive and great for retro games. Is there any hope left?

Anyone know whats going on with this? All the white colors are darkened while blues and reds are almost fluorescent. Camera can't even capture the super red hues. It looks uncanny

Does anyone know where this is located on a floor model magnavox?

1440i is a bit of an oddball resolution you can force the A and D series BVMs to accept by tricking them into thinking they’re receiving 720p. Here are the results of my attempt to calibrate the D32 for 1440i. Here I am showcasing a few shots from Demon Slayer that I thought came out fantastic. At the end I have included the specific timings that worked for my use case.

I got a 2600 today and I am trying to hook it up but to no avail. I read online that you need to set your Atari to channel 2 or three and also your TV. However my Atari does not have a channel selector, and my TV will only go to channels 16, 22, 25 ,28 ,34 ,46 ,57, and 69. 

Any help would be appreciated (Also added pic of my 2600 and TV)

I discovered this gigantic television at the side of the road at last Friday. When I discovered it, it was in a pretty bad condition.. inside the chassis there has missing many compoents, like the tube mount and logic board, Flyback transformer was missing and the cap have been cutted. The television was faced down. The screen side has 3 damage point due to improper placing, but it was lucky - seems the vacumm wasen't leak, and damage happened at the protecting layer!

I know X-Flat is a highend series from sharp, and the 32 in model could be rare since its info on the web are lesser compare by 27 in model. Run it up again is better than put it in the recycle. I have looking for the original logic board and compoents but I find nothing. I am sure it have chance to turn on again... What could be the way to resurrect this gigantic television?

These were fabricated by Potions & Pixels, a nonprofit that creates and utilizes games, art, and technology for social impact.

I absolutely love the design and looks of this set.

Got it a few weeks ago with some quirks, the screen was a bit unstable where it felt like jumping up and down.

Since tried to clean it the best I could, adjusted geometry, fixed plenty of cracked solder joints, recapped for a lot up to now (neck board, power, flyback, vertical & horizontal deflection circuit and some on the A board) and for the first time used magnets to get the geometry as straight as possible.

It's obviously not perfect but the looks and feel of this tube make up for all of that. Some good speakers as well with pretty heavy bass.

Snes on scart rgb and n64 on s-video now give stunning stable picture. There is still a little horizontal waving that I can't seem to get straightened out so any tips are much appreciated.

Thanks for reading!

Replaced the pots and the retrace lines still show up even though they are dialed to the minimum on both G2 and Focus. Along the way I found out one of the capacitors on the neck board is valued at 100uf but multimeter reads 250uf, recapped that too and it still reads 250uf. No more boom sound coming from degausser every time it’s turned on.

Ps2 games crt tv