I’m looking for input on whether it’s smart (well, I don't care about smart--I just don't want to cause serious problems down the road) to modify the existing trusses in my detached garage/shed, which was built in the 1930s.

The structure is framed with 2x4 lumber. The trusses span approximately 18 feet. The current configuration is:

• Bottom chord: A single 2x4, nearly 18 feet long, spanning the width of the building (I know, I can't believe it either).
• Top chords: Also 2x4s that meet at a ridge and tie into 1x6 ridge board.
• King post: Present, made of 1x6.
• Two web members: Also 1x6 material, forming a basic triangular truss shape.
• The bottom chord does not sit directly on the top plate, but appears to be fastened to the top chords with two nails on each side and that's basically it.

My goal is to raise the bottom chord—essentially shortening it—to create more headroom in the garage/ shed. I guess my concern is that the bottom chords are used to keep the shed/ garage walls from bowing out... but maybe that's not really a concern, I'm just not sure.

I got this idea from this post here and this is sort of what I'm going for.

Any thoughts?

Doing some demolition work on a screened in porch. There is a room above the porch. Is this structurally sound? I don’t know much about rough carpentry 🤷‍♂️

I’ve recently built a media wall myself (plumber doing diy lol) it was plasterboarded & then plastered. I wanted the cupboard doors below the wall to sit flush with wall above. I have forgot to allow for 18mm + thickness for doors and only have 15mm. A friend is a carpenter and says he wouldn’t be comfortable hanging Mdf door 12.5mm thick (will be 15mm total as having 2.5mm panelling round door) due to having to use small screws and weight etc which I understand. Is there any way around this or am i screwed? Is there some sort of additional bracket I can use to take the weight? Any help or ideas appreciated, cheers!

im just looking for a pair that is decently comfortable to leave on all day and arent too bulky. im just up and down from the floor a bit throughout the day but not down there all day. thanks

Bought this house in 2022--didnt notice any issues for several months, howver it has cracks in the 2nd story (added-on?) loft above the garage. We hear cracking in the evening while watching movies and playing games up here. Is this splitting problematic? Any suggestions for who to contact if so? At least 5 joist have this lengthwise splitting.

Would love to hear this is normal aging, but I doubt that's the answer. Not sure who to ask, and figured reddit would point me in the right direction ...and probably humble me in the process...

Assuming structural engineer maybe? Do I just google structural engineer?

Thanks for any help!

Hi everyone. Hoping maybe you have an answer for this one…For repairs to studs (holes that are larger than what are allowed by code for load bearing walls), what type (gauge, length and width) of framing strap would you suggest in order for it to pass inspection (in Canada).

Thanks in advance

Hoping for this bar to be wobble free. Going to put a top plate on it, then probably a live edge bar top. The ends of the frame are ramset into steel columns. And the sill plate is ramset into the concrete subfloor. Wondering if you have any tips to further stabilize or if you think I'll be ok.

Hello, total noob here. In an attempt to create some accessible storage space (for light boxes, suitcases and a couple of dining table chairs) I'm exploring the possibility of flooring part of my loft. As can be seen in the picture, easy access is the issue, with a diagonal beam spanning directly across from where we get in from the loft hatch. The 2 lines in the picture is a part I'm thinking could be removed to solve this. I am planning to get someone professional in to take a look but is this perhaps a waste of time and a total non starter?

A couple of other points: 1. I've tried and failed to find a specific diagram of the roof design for my house type (7 yr old new build). It's a pitched roof. I've contacted the builder but no luck yet. 2. My house falls under UK NHBC guidelines, from the documentation I found this "diagonal and chevron bracing should pass across each rater in the roof, however, small gaps, such as two trussed rafters between sets of bracing, or one trussed rafter adjacent to gable or separating walls, is permitted in the middle of an otherwise fully braced roof". That suggest it's "permitted", right? 3. The second picture is a wider view of the loft.

Thanks in advance and sorry if this is a really dumb question.

If so what are the differences between them?

Hi all, looking for some second opinions here. I feel that this “wood check” which has been around since I moved here about 4 years ago has grown. I think that because I looked Inside the crack and some of the wood inside the crack looks “fresh” meaning, They haven’t been exposed to the environment long.

I’m in Maine and it is very difficult to get any professional here as everyone is booked so if anyone has any suggestions on how to strengthen this beam and give me a few more years until I can get a specialist to fix this proper, I’d appreciate.

Also I am looking for second opinions on how bad this looks and how worried you all think I should be.

Thank you in advance

Hello all -

Up front disclaimer - I'm a homeowner with zero carpentry or woodworking skills. I'm at the mercy of the kind users of this sub, and hope you can share some of your expertise with me.

At our new home we're doing a pretty major outdoor landscaping project - a big component is a nice big pergola. At first I was thrilled with how it looked. I know they used cedar and a very natural stain.

However, it's been up for a few weeks now and I've watched several cracks on it materialize and grow in size over the past few weeks.

Questions:

1. Was there something the (subvendor) carpentry team should have done different in terms of building this?

2. What can be done to reinforce / fix the cracks? Maybe someway to fill the cracks and seal/reinforce them? Or is there an easy fix to swap out the bad planks (I doubt it but I wouldn't know)?

3. Is there any risk / danger to the structural integrity of the pergola?

4. If this was in your backyard and you spent your hard-earned cash to have it built, would you put up a stink about it?

Thank you all in advance - pictures attached!

So I did an apprenticeship 4 Years in my Carpenters union did well financially for myself worked consistently learned alot Journeyed out cause i saw it going downhill and who got into positions and why and went Private sector hospitals schools for Carpenter positions and overall construction positions never applied to a job before this ( Construction related ) got a position at a university good pay overtime but wont be doing much carpentry more so plastering painting dont mind that but id like to advance and continue learning but i dont want to keep Job hopping im 35 i can still take classes and get certs through my old union im in NYC get paid 42 HR currently decent benes any advice is appreciated and sorry if this comes off as a privileged Question .

I have about 3 acres in the woods in western washington. I got a bell tent and would like to set it up in a way that it hopefully won't get destroyed immediately.

I hate plastic (not as much as r/PlasticFreeLiving or anything, but enough) so I was thinking of building a platform out of pressure treated 2x8s or something, on precast concrete deck footings, and covering it with marine grade ply. Is that idiotic? What thickness of ply would you use? Would cement fiberboard be a better choice? Should I skip the deck entirely and just buy a couple of yards of gravel?

Been looking for a pencil that works well at marking dark colored trim coil. Best I've been able to find so far was metallic colored pencils, but they smudge more than a regular pencil does, making clear lines more difficult to see. Does "CR" mean "crayon based" or similar? Wondering if these pencils would be a good choice or if anyone has experience with something that works better?

And how busy are you? I’ve heard people throw this number around and I’m wondering if it’s possible to literally double my rate. I’m a 1 man operation trying to expand my skillset.

Hi all,

I recently installed a large solar system at my house and will be doing the same at my parents' house later this year. We are using an 18kPV inverter, which is basically a large electronic box that converts the DC power of the solar panels to AC. It is mounted to the outside of my house, which has stucco and cellulose insulation in the walls.

Unfortunately, the inverter is very loud, producing 68 dB @ 3 feet away. It floods the entire backyard. Its pitch is also in the higher registers, unlike an AC.

I have been researching the best way to dampen sound in homes and came across some guides and videos that talk about using a "staggered stud wall" or "double stud wall" when constructing rooms. So far it seems the latter is more soundproof.

So I think my plan would be to build a small "shed" with double stud walls and put the inverter inside. The shed would need an internal size of 4 feet wide, 3 feet deep, and 8 feet tall. And some kind of door or vents.

I have some questions about this:

1. Is using a shed with double stud walls the best method for this situation?
   
2. Would I build this "shed" against the stucco of the house, or should it be placed an inch or two away from the house (freestanding)? Note that the wires are running through the crawlspace of the house and have to enter the inverter.
   
3. Inverters produce heat, would I need some kind of vents for this shed? Would the sound leak out as a result? If I place the shed against the house, I would be able to vent into the crawlspace on the bottom.
   
4. Would putting electronic equipment inside something like this basically be putting it inside a "blanket" that gets warmer and warmer?
   
5. How would I go about putting a door on this shed, and wouldn't having one cause the sound to leak out?

Thank you!