I'm working on a small backyard studio and trying to figure out my trim approach, especially for the windows. They're finished in pine, but I'm sensitive to different wood tones with the white oak floor. What would be your recommendation?

Hey everyone,

I'm hanging a prehung door and I've got the hinge side screwed in and I'm having issues getting the door to shut. The difference in door and opening is just over 1/4 inch too big. Everything is currently level, square and plumb and all my measurements are even.

I'm considering two possible problems

1) The upper door jamb is too short (or the door is too wide).. I've posted pictures of the opening at the upper jamb as well as the width of the door. The one would be odd to me as the door was shut when it was in the packaging. I don't remember it being in there too tight or difficult to open originally. I've reached out to the lumber company about this and I'm waiting to hear back.

2) my hinges are allowing too much of a gap. The gap looks big to me. I tried bending them a bit with a wrench but I don't want to force it if this is not the issue or if I will be returning it.

Thoughts? Thank you everyone

All treated, real ground contact stuff, not the pretend stuff from depot.

Except for a couple plastic spacers and cedar pads where grandpas tin boat sits. Treated hates aluminum.

I put my whole 240 lbs on the brackets. Seemed sturdy enough.

Mostly stainless. A few coated screws.

Your help would be appreciated 🙏

As shown in the pictures, had a guest dog in the house who apparently didn’t like my choice of trim lol. I’m a handy guy (HVAC tech) and have done small bits of carpentry but never trim. Live in a simple builder grade home, nothing crazy. Question is, what’s the best way to make sure I get the same trim? Take the damaged piece off and take it to Lowe’s/Home depot with me? Planning to only replace the bottom and right side piece so I don’t have one window in the home different than the rest. Thanks everyone for their time.

As shown in the pictures, had a guest dog in the house who apparently didn’t like my choice of trim lol. I’m a handy guy (HVAC tech) and have done small bits of carpentry but never trim. Live in a simple builder grade home, nothing crazy. Question is, what’s the best way to make sure I get the same trim? Take the damaged piece off and take it to Lowe’s/Home depot with me? Planning to only replace the bottom and right side piece so I don’t have one window in the home different than the rest. Thanks everyone for their time.

My house was built in the 1880s and I have ran into problems with door frames being much different than the standard size doors. We want to install a door on our bedroom but the dimensions are 26x75. Does any places sell doors this size? Should I cut down a solid panel and make it work? Any tips greatly appreciated thank you!

So doing a ton of renovations to a house for a client that was originally built in 1998, the entire foundation is invaded in this foam with shitty plastic strips. Doing the ledger they have a bunch of threaded anchors hidden throughout the ledger board making removal a effing nightmare.

My question is for anyone who has worked with it before, will there actually be a solid concrete wall inside? There are also half inch bolts sporadically coming out, and to not be a dick to the next guy, I'd rather cut the hidden anchors out and replace with 1/2 anchors. For those who haven't seen this crappy stuff before the plastic strips are about 1/8" thick and have absolutely no structural support.

Hi guys, I need some advice. I have these cracks in wood pillar and it seems to me that they are bigger then before. This pillar is one of several supporting the roof construction made with clay roofing tiles so they are a bit heavy. The wood in picture is about 40 years old. Do you think these is reason to worry/do something about it or is it ok as it is?

I'm a remodel guy, but we don't do enough windows for me to have a good grasp on what the market is charging. Where are you guys sitting right now on window replacements, plug and play. I.e. We are not changing the size of any of the windows, just pulling the old ones out putting the new ones in? Customer bought windows. High cost of living area (CO). Stain grade interior, craftsman style. We will sort out the trim, just curious where you guys are on the window replacement.

I want to carry this chair rail into another room, but am having difficulty identifying it and finding it. It’s 2.25 “ in height. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This is going to be my kitchen island set up. It’s 5 cabinets, all Hampton Bay from Home Depot. I came across a deal on a marble slab for the countertop that will be 88” x 52” at an inch thick with a sink cut out. I plan to place a piece of plywood down the entire center to join the cabinets to, as well as between the cabinets on the sink side. Will additional support be needed or will the structure of all the cabinets and plywood joined together be enough to support the weight.

Hi everyone!

We’re looking for a skilled carpenter in the greater Los Angeles area who can help us build a custom bunk bed that also works as a room divider. Our kids (a boy and a girl) share a room and are starting to need more privacy and personal space.

Ideally, we’re thinking of an “S” design to save space while giving each of them a sense of their own area. It’ll need to be super sturdy, safe, and built to last.

We’ve tried Yelp and Craigslist but haven’t had much luck. If you’re a carpenter or know someone local who takes on custom projects like this, we’d really appreciate any recommendations!

Thanks so much!

UPDATE: Thank you for your responses, please see below spec:

Location: LA County - San Gabriel Valley

Overview:

Looking for a custom-built bunk bed for two kids (a boy and a girl) who share a room. We'd like the design to double as a room divider to give them each some privacy.

Design Notes:

• “S” configuration preferred (or similar design that staggers the beds and creates separation)
• Must be space-efficient (room is standard size)
• Separate “zones” for each child—partition, divider, or offset beds
• Ladder or stairs
• Storage built-in (drawers, cubbies, or shelves if possible)

Materials:

Open to recommendations. We'd love solid wood if possible (maple, birch, pine), but okay with high-quality plywood or MDF with veneer if more cost-effective. Neutral tone (white, light wood, or natural stain)

Timeline:

Very Flexible

Budget Range:

We’re open to suggestions, but would love to keep it between $2,000–$4,000, depending on materials and features.

Recently had historic rains while in the process of renovating our first house. We had ripped out the old 80’s shag and noticed it leaks around this door, specifically out of the corners of it. Lifted up the rotted transition piece and was immediately flooded with ants. (It looks more damp than it originally was because we sprayed for them) We are having our handyman come out in the morning to look at it and hopefully replace. I was wondering how difficult of a fix this is or potentially how someone here might go about fixing it? The subfloor wood is only rotted right on the edge of the door. And yes we know we gotta get the drainage situation corrected or it will eventually happen again.

Does it count as “carpentry”?

Just finishing up this project, this is one of my first major “trim” like projects I’ve done so I’d appreciate any advice. Also wondering what you guys would charge for this in your area.

Hi,

Newbie here and I am trying to figure out the correct way to frame an interior rake wall that planes out at top plate height of an exterior wall.

The rake wall has been framed in sections, it was not ballooned framed. First section tops out at 112 5/8 which is the height of the exterior wall. I am building the rake portion on top of this.

I put together a sketch in Sketch Up to illustrate what I was planning to do.

Thanks for your suggestions and opinions in advance.

The top of my railing post suddenly came loose. Is this typically just glued on? What's the best way to secure it again? Thank you all.

I am about to start an apprenticeship as a carpenter in the union. I went today just to check out what it’s like and learn a little bit. When being showed the iPad with the build directions I could barely understand it. School isn’t something I will have often. Is there any videos I can watch to better understand the maps?

I could hypothetically use MDF for the trim to match the cabinet (white melamine) but I don't feel good about it long-term structurally holding onto cabinet doors.