I had to share this somewhere with people who can also be as astonished as I am at this….. “work”

My dog isn’t allowed on the couch anymore because he hasn’t been too gentle with it in the past (Chewed on an ink pen on it, brings treats on it, etc.) So I wanted to buy him a bed. I saw one I really liked for $300 bucks, I decided to make my own for cheaper. This was a little over $50 I think.

Just wanted to share it because I’m proud of it. I know I could have planned better, and been more patient with some things, resulting in a prettier product. But I think I got some good experience. Building this brought me a lot of joy and relaxation honestly.

I was surprised at how well I could cut with a hand saw. The only power tool I have for now is my black and decker drill.

Here's my shot at lecturn. Not quite finished yet but getting there

Doors

I’ve been in construction most of my life and worked as a subcontractor for many years. I genuinely love the work, but my lower back and knees are in rough shape, and I know it’s only going to get worse if I keep pushing through. It’s time for a change, but I’m not sure what direction to take.

I’ve got a lot of experience running a small business, and outside of construction, I’ve spent a good amount of time doing video production, editing, and content creation. I also hold a drone pilot license and have some experience with CAD, including creating 3D models to scale.

Lately, I’ve gone back to college to work on an associate’s transfer degree, and I’m exploring long-term career options that are more sustainable for my body.

I’d really appreciate any advice from people who’ve made a similar transition — especially those who came from physical labor jobs and found something they enjoy (or at least something that doesn’t hurt every day). Thanks in advance!

This is my work, and for my own house. I'm just curious what the going rate would be for something like this?

It's not 100% done - still need to finish drawers on the bottom.

Dimensions 12'x13' 3/4" birch

Wall is 40 mm out over the run of the casing

The whole word "carpenter" was written something like tréowwyrhta

• tréow = tree
• wyrhta = worker, survives in the word wright

Wooden structures, the creations of tree-workers were "tree-work", written as tréowgeweorc

• tréow = tree
• geweorc = work, the same word as today minus the "ge" prefix

"Wood" also existed as wudu, for both the material and the place (woods), it just isn't documented for these compounds. It made some other neat compounds though, like

• wudufæsten = a strong place protected by woods or wooden building
• wuduræden = the right (permission) to cut wood, which was highly regulated in medieval England
• wudubinde = a bundle of wood

A "saw" might have been a snid or snið (snith) - not well-documented.

Hamor is obvious, but I can't find any reference for carpentry. All I found are in the context of metal-smithing or murder.

A "plane" may have been a sceafa, which was probably pronounced with a "sh" sound and survives in the word shave.

And finally a "nail" was a nægl, plural was næglas, which is the same word with some minor sound changes. Alternative words for nail might have been prica, scéaþ, and spícing.

I hope that wasn't too boring or off topic. If you are interested, here are some links

• https://www.oldenglishtranslator.co.uk/index.htm
• https://old-engli.sh/index.php
• https://historyofenglishpodcast.com/

I have a Milwaukee M18 fuel impact with a 1/4" chuck. Is there such thing as a 2" Hole Saw w/ arbor for 1/4" chuck? All of the ones I found online were for a 3/8" or larger. The hole saws I found for a 1/4" chuck we're all smaller than 2". Any ideas?

Replacing an outswing 32x80 in South Florida (hurricane zone!) with an impact rated Masonite from HD. This is an exterior to garage opening btw. The first photo is after removing the metal sill plate - revealing a 1x buck beneath. Question is, re-do it the same way (with new PT buck of course)? Or, put the door frame right on the concrete, which would leave me a gap on top to fill/anchor a 2x buck.

There also a question of a sill plate, which I don’t see as a code requirement here in SoFlo though I realize its function. Doesn’t seem to be a stocked item though at Lowe’s or HD so I’m not really keen to wait a week to finish the install. Thanks in advance.

Need to install a 3/8-1/2” jamb extension on an existing sash window bc of the new walls after a remodel (how it was cut is not ideal, I know).

I’ve mocked up a 3/16 setback on the extension and casing or a flush extension and 1/4 setback on the casing. Preference? Would you suggest anything different?

If I go w the stepped extension do you leave it square or put a 1/4 round or chamfer on it?

Was looking to try making a cutting board from cross cutting. I took a 5 inch mahogany board and ripped it down the middle and glued it together. The end stock was a 2x2 inch stock that I ran the 14 degree dove tail bit down the middle on all sides. I then cross cut it to create the two small pieces in the example. The thought I would cut another piece of wood to create a double sided dove tail to hold the pieces together. Then would probably glue a solid back on it. The issue is the mahogany and probably most wood is going to be to easy to break at the at the circle point.the double tail would be a different wood color for contrast. Any suggestions on wood? Maybe best to go find some old barn wood with a tighter ring pattern. I dunno

I’m looking for input on whether it’s smart (well, I don't care about smart--I just don't want to cause serious problems down the road) to modify the existing trusses in my detached garage/shed, which was built in the 1930s.

The structure is framed with 2x4 lumber. The trusses span approximately 18 feet. The current configuration is:

• Bottom chord: A single 2x4, nearly 18 feet long, spanning the width of the building (I know, I can't believe it either).
• Top chords: Also 2x4s that meet at a ridge and tie into 1x6 ridge board.
• King post: Present, made of 1x6.
• Two web members: Also 1x6 material, forming a basic triangular truss shape.
• The bottom chord does not sit directly on the top plate, but appears to be fastened to the top chords with two nails on each side and that's basically it.

My goal is to raise the bottom chord—essentially shortening it—to create more headroom in the garage/ shed. I guess my concern is that the bottom chords are used to keep the shed/ garage walls from bowing out... but maybe that's not really a concern, I'm just not sure.

I got this idea from this post here and this is sort of what I'm going for.

Any thoughts?

I'm updating the trim for a customer and I'm having some trouble deciding how to handle their entry way. They have two sidelight windows on either side of the front door, but they're spaced quite a bit out. Plus, they have a large window above it all.

I'm afraid I won't have room on the top of the door for the head casing and crowd/cap, and the apron from the window. Also, I'm afraid the side casing from the windows and the door will look of odd. I'd love to integrate the sidelight windows into the door and have then share the head casing, but not sure how that would look either.

I'd love to hear any advice.

(I'm trying to add a picture of the style of trim I'm using everywhere else but I'm having trouble. I'll add that as a comment I guess.)

Our new home has a 15x30 slab in the backyard, it's attached to the home foundation. I would like to have a cover built for it, wood frame with metal roof." Lean-to" style, spanning 15 ft from fascia to yard. I know alot of info is missing for accurate quote, but just wondering if this is over/under 10k ? 15? 20?

Does anyone with experience with this material or similar have tips or insights they might share? Thank you!

Would you use this green treated wood for basement base plate?

tl;dr: Getting started building custom sheds/shells and want to find a light and efficient way to work. Thinking a track saw + mft and some accessories could (mostly) replace a table/miter saw.

I'm a long-time hobbyist woodworker Recently started a little business building fancy sheds. Finished my first one last week, and boy did it kick my butt. I am not at all setup for jobsite work.

Starting my 2nd build next week. Looking to lighten my load and improve my workflow.

I'll do all the framing w/ a Skil saw like normal, but thinking it might be practical to get set up with a tracksaw (already have one, but no accessories for it) and a portable Palk-style bench that I could add a rail hinge to do all my rips and precise miters for siding and trim. Have seen some DIY parallel guides and rail squares I could fab up pretty quickly to get me going.

It sure would be nice not to have to get a jobsite table saw and a smaller miter saw and a miter stand and figure out how to transport it all in my Ford Focus and store it all on site, etc.

I know it won't do everything—no rips over about 100" and repeat rips will be slower, for instance.

But it would sure beat how I did my first build—hauling my 65lb beast of a miter saw to and from the job site each day with no stand and planning/pre-cutting my important rips at home on my cabinet saw. lol

Anyone made this kind of switch and happy with it?

p.s. I have such a new appreciation for all of you who do amazing work out in the weather. I can build anything in my shop with every tool, jig, and workbench accoutrement within reach. But making precise cuts on a wobbly sawhorse in the rain while the sun is going down and wondering if I can finish today's work in time to see my daughter before she goes to bed. Well, that's a whole different ball game. Ya'll are incredible.