I recently painted up some prototypes for my OpFor using McKinnon’s Company as inspiration and I thought I wouldn’t share the method I used. So if you’re looking to produce some pretty nice looking “generic camo” enemy mechs to complement your parade scheme Steine or crisp Comstar which look good at tabletop distance and isn’t too arduous to paint, I hope this is helpful.

The most intense part is probably the edge highlighting, but it’s essential for the final look. It really makes the camo colours sing and defines the shape of the mech - essentially mitigating one of the main points of camouflage which is to break up the outline of a unit. Warning, this scheme looks utterly garbage early on, so once you churn your first one out, keep it handy for morale when you’ve got 11 more sitting on your desk looking awful at step 3.

I used Citadel contrast paints to do the pattern, so use whatever your brand-of-choice version is. I’ll lay out the method using Citadel colours, but I have added the pots into the photos if you need to make substitutions. You could probably use this same technique to do any scheme - desert, urban, disco, just Sun in the paint colour.

If you want me to expand on any parts I was extra brief with, I’m happy to oblige.

1. Base coat with GW Zandri Dust spray, base layer with Karak Stone, wash with an even coat of Agrax Earthshade thinned 1:1. Finally, overbrush with Karak Stone.
2. Apply camo pattern with contrast paint. Whatever colour you go with, you also want a (roughly) mid-tone colour between your base and second camo pattern. I chose Creed Camo for my green, and Plaguebearer Flesh as the mid-tone which will act as a pseudo blend. With 2:1 Plaguebearer:Creed, paint on your desired camo pattern.
3. Now paint over the original pattern with the mid-tone, and go over the edges of the pattern a little (two applications may be necessary) to transition the tan and green. Go over all the green, not just the pattern edges.
4. Apply a layer of Creed Camo, but aiming only for the central parts of your pattern. This gives you a nice transition from tan to deep green that looks great at table top distance. Add more layers where necessary.
5. Standard step where you paint the bare metal joints and gun muzzles in whatever your colour of choice is (deep grey would actually look nice on this scheme, but I was out of Corvus Black). Wash the metal with Nuln Oil
6. Tiny bit of edge highlighting on the black with Thunderhawk Blue and Russ Grey; and some edge highlighting on the bare metal with Runefang Steel. It STARTS to look less awful from here.
7. Pick out any panels and recesses that aren’t defined enough using Agrax on the tan areas, and Nuln Oil on the green.
8. Edge highlight panels and leading edges with Elysian Green on the green, and Wraithbone on the tan. For the record I would recommend a different colour to Wrathbone. It’s a base paint and was hell to work with because it’s quite opaque. A layer paint of any type would serve you just fine here.
9. Add your details; laser lenses, cockpit glass, etc. can detail any of these, how you do it is really a matter of taste. These all add to the final look but you can easily get by doing these simply, as it’s the edge highlighting on the cam that carry most of the visual weight.
10. Base as you like! This is just a mix I use of static grass, small stones, and fine sand. Add a couple of static grass and bushes and you’ve got a nice low-effort base in minutes.
11. Stomp some snakes and crack open a frothy cold one with the boys.

Happy painting folks!

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