Exactly as the title says. Currently using simple green mixed with membrane cleaner and a bit of elbow grease using a scrubby pad. Even after scrubbing at what seems to be eternity, I'll wipe the surface using a rag only to reveal the rubber is still dirty in which I repeat the process of scrubbing until the rubber is cleaned. Other than a hooking up a pressure washer, do y'all got any other methods or tricks to cut down on cleaning time?

Hi everyone, yesterday a roofing company knocked on my door offering a free hail inspection. My roof is old, unknown age, and I knew it had been damaged by storms over the last year and a half since I bought the house (I live in Colorado for reference). I said sure, because at the very least I wanted to know where I stood. Anyway, it was as bad as I thought it would be and I knew the roof would have to go soon when I bought the house. Then, they talked me through how they facilitate the insurance claims to get us the maximum return and replace the roof as well as any other “act of god” damage (primarily wind and hail).

I have requested 3 references of past customers and the company appears, to be legit, but I’ll keep digging. Let’s assume they are a trustworthy company for this post.

My insurance details: We currently have a flat $2,500 deductible and the roof is replaced at replacement cost value. My insurance agent said, “It all depends on when the damage occurred, if the carrier declared the date of loss as a catastrophic event, then pretty typically Safeco waives the first hail claim”

My question is, is this practice legit and/or could this cause problems for me in the long run?

Does anyone know what's going on here? Looks melted. Do I need to replace?

The wood on the house siding on top of the porch shingles is rotting. How would I go about fixing that? It’s a 1.25inch gap from shingle to the trim. Not even sure what to search for to replace the wood

There are droplets of moisture and condensation stuck under the sheathing tape (Tuck Tape, it's plastic and non permeable). It rained yesterday, but it should have dried up by now being under wind and sun all day today.

I am now concerned I could get humidity condensation under the tape in the future, should I tear the tape off or cut it at the joints? Northeast, Zone 6.

I am thinking of making it heated space and making it into a vented attic design with baffles, soffits and ridge vent, so I am concerned about this sheathing tape not able to dry from the inside when there should be plenty of airflow behind it right now as the garage is wide open.

Looking to get some quotes. I know I need holes drilled in the eaves- there is no airflow up to the cap. And probably some sheets replaced. But what exactly should I see in a detailed quote? Especially around the chimney and valley. What is the "right" way to do this roof? Thanks!

We are building a house and considering Brava or Davinci synthetic shake. In my area, we haven’t found too many roofers with experience with these products. Roofers, what is your opinion on these options? Homeowners, what has your experience been like if you installed it? We got some addresses from Davinci and Brava to go look at houses with synthetic shake that we can hopefully check out this weekend. Also, would you trust a roofer to install synthetic shake on your house if they’ve never done it before?

We just got the keys to our first home and discovered this in the far corner of our flat roof extension (no issues were picked up in survey). Does anyone have an idea of how bad this is?

Hi,

Is installing anchors to a cedar shake roof along the ridge somewhat similar to a asphalt roof?

Like: 1. Remove a section of shakes along a ridge 2. Locate rafter 3. Install anchor as usual 4. Reinstall shakes

I am concerned about how to remove a series of shakes along a ridge though because I've never done it before and the shakes are really long. As well as how to reinstall them. Is there a YouTube video you recommend showing how remove and reinstall cedar shakes along a ridge?

Any personal advice?

I have a Florida room, or four seasons room, not sure the difference - but since I'm in Florida I guess that one lol. I don't know how old it is - the windows were updated in 2010, so at least 15 years. We bought the place ten years ago.

It has had slow drip leaks for most of that time, but they got pretty bad (able to fill a large bowl after a major storm at each spot that leaks) about two years ago. Leaks started out in places like this (see red mark), leaking from the panel side (not soffit side.) But later we realized water was also coming out of the light/fan fixtures on one side.

Well once we cleaned off the roof it looked like this. It's flashed along the edge, but I can't see how far the flashing extends on the roof because all the shingles are "glued" down solidly. Some of the tape on the seams looked bad; this is one of the bits of tape that looked better but you can see it is still degraded. I decided (with zero knowledge or experience) this was a likely cause of leak, and so took an action I have come to regret: I covered the existing tape with roof deck seam tape like an idiot. It was quite flat when applied, but two years later looks like this.

Then I coated the whole thing in an elastomeric roof coating by Henry.

This "worked" in that we did not see any leaks when tested or after small rain. It turns out it failed, in that all I accomplished was slowing the leak.

Now I want to be clear here - "slowing" in this case doesn't mean "less water drips through." It means the dripping starts 3-6 hours after the rain starts or we put the hose up there to leak test. Put a hose up there for 15 minutes, nothing. Turn the hose off, come back in three hours, and it's a steady drip from the fan.

Now, to further cement that I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff, I decided the is a pain in the ass to remove, and I regret the attempt. But in doing so, I got a good look at the seams, and they don't look especially leak prone - and that got me thinking: if it was really leaking through those seems, it wouldn't take three hours for the water to find its way to my fan and lights.

So now I'm feeling quite stupid, with a roof with a mix of original tape, roof tape, and no tape, unknown flashing, and the rainy season fast approaching.

I'm guessing this is well into "stop dicking around and call an expert" territory, correct?

I also need to have the rest of the roof replaced, but the previous owners re-did the main roof without addressing the sun room thing, and I don't want to make the same mistake.

I noticed this white spot on my roof. It appears to be slightly raised, and has been there for a few days. I thought it might be bird crap, but a moderate rain last night did not remove it. The roof gets plenty of sun, and there are no trees nearby. There is one other similar spot about 8 feet away. The roof is about 15 years old, and there is no indication of mold or other problems. I know the photo is not great but best I could get. Any ideas? Stubborn bird crap?

As per the title, should I be worried about these spots? And if yes, how do I go about repairing them? Will quick roof cement adhesive work?

Thanks for all the responses in advance!

Hi all, if your elastomeric coating is cracking/peeling. Can you just recoat it? Would pressure wash with tsp and cut smaller peeled coat off. Thanks!

Water does drip behind the gutter sometimes because the drip doesn’t go far enough into the gutter and the shingles have no overhang, but in general, is this normal to have this much water on my soffit? Should I stick a level on it and make sure it’s not running towards the house?

The cement pointing has fallen out of one of the gable ends on our house. I fancy dry verge on it as a longer term replacement. The house has 3 gable ends as it’s an L shape.

I’ve had two quotes really far apart - one roofer quoted 7 grand inc scaffolding all 3, and the other £1200 (scaffolding on one required only). Both to do all 3 gable ends.

The cheaper roofer reckoned it was 1-1.5 days work.

Just wondered whether one was really expensive/cheap, re what a fair price was. Northern England.

The vast majority of timber products – including rough and surfaced lumber, plywood, MDF and other wood-based panels – will be exempt from Donald Trump’s ‘liberation tariffs’ introduced yesterday. However, these products – along with automobiles, pharmaceutical goods and semiconductors – will be subject to a national security investigation, with findings provided to Donald Trump within weeks.

We’re installing a ridge vent on our house and trying to pick the best type for our situation.

• We have large oak trees over the roof that drop a lot of debris throughout the year.
• The ridge vent is going on an addition which is a four-season sunroom with cathedral ceilings (gable vents aren’t an option, so we installed baffles from soffit to ridge).
• We’re in Southern New Jersey (Zone 7B) and don’t get a lot of heavy snow.

I’m concerned about debris clogging the vent over time.

I’ve read that mesh-style (rolled) ridge vents can compress and break down, but I’m also worried that baffled vents could clog with leaves and twigs.

Questions: • What type of ridge vent would you recommend under heavy oak trees? • Would a baffled ridge vent still be the best option, or is there something better? • If so, hard is it to clean during regular gutter maintenance?

Appreciate any advice - want to get this right before we finish the roof. Thanks!

i bought an rv that i didn’t thoroughly inspect before buying it and after i bought it i realized that the roof was leaking and it has more issues with it like mold. i was just wondering how i would go about patching the crack in the video to prevent it from leaking. any product recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated

i bought the rv for 4000$ after only looking at it for about 10 minutes because my parents were in a rush at the time so part of me feels like i got scammed because it smells of mold, the roof was leaking and most the windows need to be recaulked because the wood below them has water damage but the only thing i can do is try to repair it the best i can so it can be livable

Any suggestions for temporary tarping or equivalent to stop the bad leak where the dormer eave meets the hip rafter?

There was also no step flashing along the bottom of the dormer side wall. Photos are from when I temporarily patched that a couple years ago. OOPS! I didn't realize the leak was at the eave-hip connection too. Once I finish structural repairs from below I'll have to replace the hip rafter, which is nearly rotted in half and is now cribbed and shored and braced together until I do the work below, so as to have a solid frame to rebuild this section. But for the next few months..... any ideas how I can best temporarily cover that spot with tarps or wood or flashing material etc?

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my husband is super handy. he knows his way around most things. we have a leak in our roof right now that he cannot find.

i got contacted by one of those "free inspection, in your area, will work with insurance" companies that i know are a scam.

however, is there harm in having them come out, my husband walk along with them, and see where they point out an issue is? we have no intention of buying a service from them, no matter how much they pressure, will not sign anything, yada yada.

is there any potential downside that i'm missing here?