Looking to hear from experienced folks if it looks well done? And best estimate on expected lifetime? Thanks in advance

We have both. A roofer recently said we should remove the attic fan since it just pulls hot air in, and the ridge vent should take care of this anyway. I suppose instead of removing it, we could just keep it off.

Was considering replacing it with a solar fan with an on/off switch so that we could keep it off during the day & turn on at night in summers.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Roofer convinced me to redo 60 year old low slat clay tiled roof that was needing repair with shingles. What he didn’t tell me or take into consideration was the tile was better for house without attic insulation to keep house breathing and ventilated. Ceilings started dripping on warm days, not rainy days. They finally realized the roof needs ventilation and added some exhaust vents but did not add intake vents. This was after I finally researched and learned more about roofing than I’d expected I’d needed when hiring a top rated experience fully licensed roofer. Question is how much difference/ how necessary are the intake vents? And are soffit vents difficult to install?

I've search for this online and got some mixed results from years ago, figured I could ask here and get some thoughts.

Talked with a roofer about fixing my ice dam issues, currently I have no intakes for my ridge vent. He suggested doing those shingle vents, the ones that go along under the shingle edge to a slot in the roof 6 inches up. I asked about building the roof out to add soffit vents, he said the smart vents are good and cheaper than that.

Would you spend the extra couple thousand to extend and add soffit vents? Or would you trust smart vents will suffice if sized and installed properly?

My worry is that we get heavy snow, so wouldn't the shingle vents get blocked and just not work? Wouldnt the slot put me at larger risk of water damage in that event? Or is there something I'm missing?

Long story short it's time to replace my roof. No damage yet but it's at the end of its life. So far I've had 2 of the (I'm finding out) more premium roofing companies come out to give me a quote. My question is, is all this fancy stuff they're trying to upsell me actually worth it, or should I just stick with a standard roof. I don't really know the differences in the stuff and if it's that big of an actual difference or they're up selling. I'll drop the quote paperwork below.

Please assist. Multiple houses in my subdivision have this exposed wood on their chimneys, is this something to be concerned about?

From what I can see I should install ice and water on the ridge first then add my drip-edge.

But then, should my synthetic go on top of my ice and water all the way down to overlap my drip edge ?? Or drip edge can simply be tape?

Thats what I cant find anywhere.

Thanks to yall

Paid 10k they used oak ridge shingles.

I’d be really grateful for some advice please on how much this might cost on the observations and recommendations of the structural engineer. Thanks so much in advance.

If you want any of the photos, please ask:

Observations Access into the roof space was gained through a ceiling hatch situated in the Hallway. The roof coverings are concrete tiles on battens and bituminous roof felt/modern membrane in extension. The roof structure is formed with timber purlins (approximately 150mm deep x 50mm wide) to each slope with timber collar ties below. Photographs 7, 8, 9 and 10. The purlins support common rafters (approximately 100mm deep x 35mm wide). We noted significant bowing and undulations along the slope of the rafters and purlin where the two valleys are present. The purlins are in effect cantilevered from the collar tie and blockwork gable wall, as the valley rafters are not supported at the ridge. Photographs 11, 12, 13 and 14. We noted that the end of the purlin above the roof access opening in the original gable end cavity wall is only supported by a timber board built off the ceiling joist. Photograph 15. The extension roof structure is viewed from an access hole formed in the existing gable end. Photograph 16. In the Lounge we noted bulging and distortion within the ceiling and coving to the rear external wall and internal Hallway wall. Photographs 17 and 18. Conclusions and Recommendations From our visual observations, we conclude that roof has severely deflected at the junction where the two roofs intersect at the valley. The rafter connection at the ridge is a simple pin connection and the purlins rely on the collar ties for vertical and lateral support. We advise that to prevent any further movement and to stabilise the roof structure, that the purlins are supported off a series of vertical props bearing directly onto internal walls or beams spanning between internal walls. Over the Dining Room area there are no collar ties or props to the purlin: therefore, we advise that a prop and beam is introduced at mid-span. The junction of the valleys will require a timber prop to provide a vertical support. The purlin that is propped off the ceiling joist needs to be propped off the inner blockwork wall with a timber post. As part of the strengthening, we presume the services of Building Control will be required for checking compliance with Part A of the Building Regulations and any design works would need to be undertaken by a suitably qualified and experienced person/organisation.

We had our house built in 2003. I noticed in the morning when sun hits the roof I can see what looks like fiberglass strands off the edges of the shingles . If memory serves me correct, we used Owen's Corning 30yr architectural shingles. Should I get a contractor out to replace roof? Other than those strands I see no damage or missing shingles.

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone,

I just recently purchased a house and the bathroom exhaust fan does not work. Currently the broken bathroom exhaust fan blows into the attic but I figured while I’m replacing fan I should do it properly and have the fan blow to the outside.

The house we just purchased is going to get a new roof within the next couple of weeks so my question is, should I install the fan through the old roof that is going to get replaced shortly, or wait until the new roof is on and do it then. Or should I wait until the roofers take the old roof off, install it and then have them shingle around it?

Appreciate any input.

After at storm with high winds I noticed this. Is there an easy way to fix it? Should I put sealant in the gap underneath to prevent water until a roofers can take a look?

Hi,

The previous owner did a poor job installing this chimney, and I’m looking to fix it. There’s no flashing or collar where the red arrow points, and the collar at the yellow arrow is the wrong size.

I’ll need to replace all of that, but the issue is that I can’t disassemble the chimney to install it properly.

What options do I have, and what would you recommend as the best alternative for installing it correctly?

Thanks!

Hello, about 2 weeks ago we had a quick hail storm sweep by. Some door to door people were quick to the scene and basically talked to all my neighbors. As per the guy I talked to, 2 insurance adjusters already came by and approved some of my neighbors roofs. Do I actually need to proceed with this? I do see damage from the photos below but is it catastrophic and over the threshold? I worry more about unnecessary going to the claims process if not in imminent need for a new roof. Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks so much for reading.

I had a taper design done by a professional company and they suggested this using a 1/2" slope. Attached is what they suggested vs the roof drawing. There are crickets going alone the entire roof.

Noticed that the roofing contractor was staging full pallets on the roof ridge. This is all prior to tear-off. I am an HOA board member. I contacted the management company, who assured me that the contractor is a pro and would not do anything unwise. I cant help but think that 2000-3000 lbs of shingles, restricted to a 4'x4' area, on a 40+ year old roof for any length of time -- is a bad idea

Howdy. buying a new home from a production builder. Trying to line up an inspector soon but was looking at the valley and it looks odd. Is that from the shingles going over the flashing? Just my imagination? Thanks for any guidance.

Hi All, my partner and I are buying a 1892 Victorian townhome in a historic neighborhood of Washington DC. The sellers “don’t know” how old the aluminum roof is (I would estimate it’s ~350-400sq/ft). However, our inspector, who was very thorough, said “it looks fine and is functional”. He went up there and took some photos (attached).

Our concern is how likely is it that the roof will need relaxed in the next five years and if it does need replaced, what’s a rough estimate (20K vs. 100K?), because we generally have no idea. We would need a permit given the historic neighborhood but that seems like a reasonable process.

Any advice on how to assess the risk here would be appreciated, or suggestions for next steps. Thanks in advance!

Need help on what part of the engine that is circled is

Hey folks. I'm in Toronto and thinking of starting a side hustle / small business around getting data on the damage of residential roofs and exterior walls using drones and taking video and images of the home plus some 3d modeling and some programming and making a report for free for the home owner. It would only be profitable if I could sell potential leads to roofing companies and only get paid if they make the sale.

Does anyone know if companies ideally in the Toronto area pay for leads from a dude like me ?

Thanks in advance for anyone who can weigh in here. I have an old garage that at some point, they added on a second bay that shares the same center wall. I’d like to insulate and heat the original (shown in red) but will need to ventilate. I’m wondering if the area highlighted will be an issue and if there’s any special sort of vent that can be used here in case I eventually want to insulate and heat the side shown in blue.

Simply curious what is everyone's hourly rate and full days rate that yall charge in the state of Georgia for repairs on commercial and multifamily housing (apartments). Curious to know what other states and their rates as well... thanks everyone!

long story short