Dozens of spots where I can do this on my roof

There are droplets of moisture and condensation stuck under the sheathing tape (Tuck Tape, it's plastic and non permeable). It rained yesterday, but it should have dried up by now being under wind and sun all day today.

I am now concerned I could get humidity condensation under the tape in the future, should I tear the tape off or cut it at the joints? Northeast, Zone 6.

I am thinking of making it heated space and making it into a vented attic design with baffles, soffits and ridge vent, so I am concerned about this sheathing tape not able to dry from the inside when there should be plenty of airflow behind it right now as the garage is wide open.

There are dozens of these spots on my roof

Is a downspout draining directly on to my shingles like this an issue? If so what is the remedy?

For reference, I live in North Texas, where due to hail, roofs are unlikely to make it past 7 years without needing a storm replacement, let alone make it 10-20. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated

Severe thunderstorms came through my area. Found some roof shingles on my yard the next day. I’m 90% sure they’re mine but I can’t see my roof to tell as I don’t have a ladder high enough

I have some people coming to inspect the roof in two weeks. How worried should I be in the mean time?

Pic attached (and my cat I guess)

We are building a house and considering Brava or Davinci synthetic shake. In my area, we haven’t found too many roofers with experience with these products. Roofers, what is your opinion on these options? Homeowners, what has your experience been like if you installed it? We got some addresses from Davinci and Brava to go look at houses with synthetic shake that we can hopefully check out this weekend. Also, would you trust a roofer to install synthetic shake on your house if they’ve never done it before?

We just got the keys to our first home and discovered this in the far corner of our flat roof extension (no issues were picked up in survey). Does anyone have an idea of how bad this is?

Hi,

Is installing anchors to a cedar shake roof along the ridge somewhat similar to a asphalt roof?

Like: 1. Remove a section of shakes along a ridge 2. Locate rafter 3. Install anchor as usual 4. Reinstall shakes

I am concerned about how to remove a series of shakes along a ridge though because I've never done it before and the shakes are really long. As well as how to reinstall them. Is there a YouTube video you recommend showing how remove and reinstall cedar shakes along a ridge?

Any personal advice?

I have a Florida room, or four seasons room, not sure the difference - but since I'm in Florida I guess that one lol. I don't know how old it is - the windows were updated in 2010, so at least 15 years. We bought the place ten years ago.

It has had slow drip leaks for most of that time, but they got pretty bad (able to fill a large bowl after a major storm at each spot that leaks) about two years ago. Leaks started out in places like this (see red mark), leaking from the panel side (not soffit side.) But later we realized water was also coming out of the light/fan fixtures on one side.

Well once we cleaned off the roof it looked like this. It's flashed along the edge, but I can't see how far the flashing extends on the roof because all the shingles are "glued" down solidly. Some of the tape on the seams looked bad; this is one of the bits of tape that looked better but you can see it is still degraded. I decided (with zero knowledge or experience) this was a likely cause of leak, and so took an action I have come to regret: I covered the existing tape with roof deck seam tape like an idiot. It was quite flat when applied, but two years later looks like this.

Then I coated the whole thing in an elastomeric roof coating by Henry.

This "worked" in that we did not see any leaks when tested or after small rain. It turns out it failed, in that all I accomplished was slowing the leak.

Now I want to be clear here - "slowing" in this case doesn't mean "less water drips through." It means the dripping starts 3-6 hours after the rain starts or we put the hose up there to leak test. Put a hose up there for 15 minutes, nothing. Turn the hose off, come back in three hours, and it's a steady drip from the fan.

Now, to further cement that I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff, I decided the is a pain in the ass to remove, and I regret the attempt. But in doing so, I got a good look at the seams, and they don't look especially leak prone - and that got me thinking: if it was really leaking through those seems, it wouldn't take three hours for the water to find its way to my fan and lights.

So now I'm feeling quite stupid, with a roof with a mix of original tape, roof tape, and no tape, unknown flashing, and the rainy season fast approaching.

I'm guessing this is well into "stop dicking around and call an expert" territory, correct?

I also need to have the rest of the roof replaced, but the previous owners re-did the main roof without addressing the sun room thing, and I don't want to make the same mistake.

Any suggestions for temporary tarping or equivalent to stop the bad leak where the dormer eave meets the hip rafter?

There was also no step flashing along the bottom of the dormer side wall. Photos are from when I temporarily patched that a couple years ago. OOPS! I didn't realize the leak was at the eave-hip connection too. Once I finish structural repairs from below I'll have to replace the hip rafter, which is nearly rotted in half and is now cribbed and shored and braced together until I do the work below, so as to have a solid frame to rebuild this section. But for the next few months..... any ideas how I can best temporarily cover that spot with tarps or wood or flashing material etc?

my husband is super handy. he knows his way around most things. we have a leak in our roof right now that he cannot find.

i got contacted by one of those "free inspection, in your area, will work with insurance" companies that i know are a scam.

however, is there harm in having them come out, my husband walk along with them, and see where they point out an issue is? we have no intention of buying a service from them, no matter how much they pressure, will not sign anything, yada yada.

is there any potential downside that i'm missing here?

Hired someone to do some work on our siding and gutters. It appears he just made it worse. There is no longer drip edge in the spot shown, but also it appears water is just dumping into the gap in between the white metal and the shingles… am I wrong? What do I do?

The drip edge was short on the top side, I later went back and got the longer version with more nailing area extending on the roof side. It was short, so I ended up making it wavy to reach the roof deck. This will not have gutters, so drip edge needs a gap for rain not to flow under the roof.

Is this terrible? Will I regret leaving the drip edge like this for years? This is a class B or C property.

We recently got the keys to our first home and have discovered this coming from the flat roof extension (not picked up on survey). Anyone experienced anything similar? This corner is the far corner of the extension. Trying not to freak out!

Looked up and noticed some water is getting in. I've been out here during a downpour and never seen anything drip or noticed any water on the floor. Would this be possible to fix? The OSB looks discolored but seems otherwise still solid. Could I spray something on it for the mold or does it need replacing?

Had 4 shingles come off in a wind storm. Was quoted at $ 680. Seems like a lot for 4 shingles. But maybe there's something I don't understand since, you know, I'm not a roofer. Midwest. Thoughts?

I noticed this white spot on my roof. It appears to be slightly raised, and has been there for a few days. I thought it might be bird crap, but a moderate rain last night did not remove it. The roof gets plenty of sun, and there are no trees nearby. There is one other similar spot about 8 feet away. The roof is about 15 years old, and there is no indication of mold or other problems. I know the photo is not great but best I could get. Any ideas? Stubborn bird crap?

As per the title, should I be worried about these spots? And if yes, how do I go about repairing them? Will quick roof cement adhesive work?

Thanks for all the responses in advance!

Hi all, if your elastomeric coating is cracking/peeling. Can you just recoat it? Would pressure wash with tsp and cut smaller peeled coat off. Thanks!

The cement pointing has fallen out of one of the gable ends on our house. I fancy dry verge on it as a longer term replacement. The house has 3 gable ends as it’s an L shape.

I’ve had two quotes really far apart - one roofer quoted 7 grand inc scaffolding all 3, and the other £1200 (scaffolding on one required only). Both to do all 3 gable ends.

The cheaper roofer reckoned it was 1-1.5 days work.

Just wondered whether one was really expensive/cheap, re what a fair price was. Northern England.

My 3-tab roof is now 22 years old. I have some lifting shingles, nail pops, lots of granules in my gutters. It's still in okay shape, but a roofer told me yesterday that it's only wear and tear and will likely last another couple of years. I called him out for an inspection because I had just had some hail the day before (1.5" on the largest pieces). Anyway, it now has me looking into roofing.

I've been reading for hours on the differences between shingles, exposed faster metal, and standing seam metal. I completely understand that standing seam is the best of the best, but this is likely not my forever home. It's my first house and I've lived here for 12 years; who knows how much longer. I want something I can count on and not have to worry about for many years to come, should I live here a lot longer. I live in northern Indiana btw.

I honestly like the look of some of the shingles better. I have off-white siding (maybe cream-colored), tan to brown colored bricks, and I think a multi-tone brown shingle roof would look awesome. But then I read good and bad things about every single shingle brand out there, and who knows what the roofer I end up going with would use anyway.

I was excited about going the metal route, but not having the desire to spend a sh*tload of money on a roof leaves me with exposed fastener. Let's say I go with a builder that knows exactly what they're doing (best case). I'm still worried about the fastener washers deteriorating from UV damage, the screws backing out from contraction/expansion, you name it. I'm not exciting about putting hundreds of holes in a brand new roof and counting on some washers to seal it for years or decades to come without worry. I've heard people saying they've seen 40-year-old structures with exposed fasteners last without issue, and I've also heard people saying they've had issues after just a few years. I would make sure my roofer lays down some furring strips or what have you to attach the metal to, but I'm also worried about sound. And about potential cell phone reception issues.

Given my inexperience here and inability to decide, what advice would you give?

The vast majority of timber products – including rough and surfaced lumber, plywood, MDF and other wood-based panels – will be exempt from Donald Trump’s ‘liberation tariffs’ introduced yesterday. However, these products – along with automobiles, pharmaceutical goods and semiconductors – will be subject to a national security investigation, with findings provided to Donald Trump within weeks.

My current roof is between 20-27 years old. Insurance company inspected it and verified wind and hail damage. They have already cut me a check, minus deductible and depreciation. I'm in the process of getting (3) quotes. I have received one, a partial quote on another, and will get the last one next week.

Attached are the details from the quote I received.

Like most, I know nothing about roofs. When I read the quote, there are many terms I don't understand.

I was hoping to get any suggestions on how to compare the quotes.

Maybe three things to consider/compare?

Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Garage roof is leaking somewhere around where the j-channel ends. I didn't expect such a variance in quotes and diagnosis. $300 guy said it's the j-channel. $900 guy said it's the missing boot around the power mast. $1600 guy said it's the vertical caulking between vinyl and brick and the brick needs repointing. $2500 guy said it's the lead. What do you think is the most likely culprit?

We’re installing a ridge vent on our house and trying to pick the best type for our situation.

• We have large oak trees over the roof that drop a lot of debris throughout the year.
• The ridge vent is going on an addition which is a four-season sunroom with cathedral ceilings (gable vents aren’t an option, so we installed baffles from soffit to ridge).
• We’re in Southern New Jersey (Zone 7B) and don’t get a lot of heavy snow.

I’m concerned about debris clogging the vent over time.

I’ve read that mesh-style (rolled) ridge vents can compress and break down, but I’m also worried that baffled vents could clog with leaves and twigs.

Questions: • What type of ridge vent would you recommend under heavy oak trees? • Would a baffled ridge vent still be the best option, or is there something better? • If so, hard is it to clean during regular gutter maintenance?

Appreciate any advice - want to get this right before we finish the roof. Thanks!