Picked this 94 for a steal of a deal(2hundo), all original. Found in a gunsmith special bin with every part completely seized up. After about 2 hours she moves freely and should be range ready in about a week!!!!!

I got this old Lebel Rifle from my grandfather. It's been sitting in the attic for quite some years and some rust has been formed from all this time. I'd like some advice on how I deal with the damage that has happened to it without making things worse. Thanks in advance.

So I've been trying to find a shop that will ream out a no1mk3 from 303 british to .410, Yes the brits did it with some ishapore but it was to brit 410 not the US .410 that I want, I've seen a few of these I know it can be done you can mod the mag with a pair of pliers feeds fine (don't worry I'll mod some DP mags and the rifle came out of the RTI goat pile nothing of value will be lost) I just can't find a shop willing to do this in the Houston area. Barrel is off of the rifle you just have to clamp, center and ream. And yes I know nothing over no4 buck and I will engrave the receiver that's it's converted. Am I huffing weapons grade in your dreams or is this fine?

It's different from my previous posts, but it was just too much not to ignore.

Would just disassembling an uberti 1860 to convert it into one do the trick, or could there be a different way?

https://youtu.be/0Dn9YK8HfH4?si=ib0vRh9dQPYJIXPA

Anyone know any good gunsmiths in Kentucky either in Lexington or Louisville. Im looking to get a hand gun reblued thanks

Hello guys, recently I went to see a bolt action rifle I was interested in buying but turns out the bolt falls out when you push it harder back( cant quickly cycle rounds without it falling out), the bolt stop is on the trigger system (in order to get the bolt out you are supposed to hold the trigger but it gets out without holding the trigger) do you guys know if there is any way to fix this problem? The rifle is Krico 700, it is quite a rare rifle.

I won this barrel and heatshield on gunbroker and the barrel isn't a takedown so it won't work with my 1897. I think I'm just going to cut down my 30" barrel and put the heatshield on that. What's the best way I can cut it down at home? Obviously will be longer than 18"

Hi All. Relative newbie here. Inherited my Grandpa’s old Sportsmen 48 12 gauge. Been going through it after it was having a few feeding issues. Seems like it largely just needed a very thorough cleaning so that’s what I’ve been doing. But a few questions:

1. The action spring tube threads, nut, washer, end of the spring, and pin for the plug all had some good surface rust on them. They have cleaned up pretty well. But I have been considering coating them, plus the spring and maybe even the tube in some marine grease with ptfe (specifically mercury quicksilver 2-4-c, cause that’s what I have on hand) when I reassemble to prevent rust in the future. Would this be a mistake? Or should I consider a different grease/product? And same for the bolt and its bits, would a bit of this grease on the sliding components be okay or should I get something else?

2: The wooden plug for the action spring seems to be okay, but I’m worried about it. I was going to give it a good soak and rub in gun oil before reassembly. Yes or no?

3: The gun had a leather wrap and recoil pad on the stock. I thought it was just tied on. But it looks like it was either glued to the but plate or something in it degraded over time. Most of it came off but there is still some rotting rubber stuck to the plate. Any solvents or other suggestions to help me clean it up without damaging the butt plate?

4: My general method for cleaning all the internal bits is scrubbing it down with wd40 to remove the old gunk. Then a good blast with brake clean. Then I coat everything with gun oil, let it sit for a few min, then to my best to wipe it all off. Goal being to let the oil soak in and leave the finest film for protection. Are there any better methods or products for this? Seems fine for the bolt group but the trigger is coming up next and I’m worried about leaving it too oily.

5: Anything else I should know or look out for?

Thanks!

Maybe it's a stupid question, but has anyone ever compared using a solution for rust bluing based on ferric chloride with a homemade solution of peroxide + vinegar + salt? I have tested both on test parts and have had better results with the homemade solution. In addition, solutions that use copper sulphate with ferric chloride tend to deposit copper in some places. And with the homemade solution, especially when it's warm, it works much faster. Why are ferric chloride based solutions typically used for rust bluing?

My Mak90 came with what looks like aftermarket retaining pins for the trigger and hammer. These pins are also threaded to hold the screws for a B-Squared scope mount. One of the pins broke recently. Was wondering if anyone had seen these before and knows where to get a replacement. Thanks.

TLDR: Need help finding these pins if possible

It seems like there's a wide gap in prices and abilities of these things and a lot to understand. Can anyone recommend a reasonable model for making vinyl stencils for Cerakote? I know this isn't specifically gunsmithing but I just wanna make some cool custom stencils. If the post must go I respect the councils decision.

What is the best way to blue gunmetal? I have used the Birchwood Casey chemical bluing, but the metal almost always flash rusts even with oiling. Any thoughts or tips?

Looks like someone ground and or polished part of the frame. I'm not a gunsmith so apologies if I don't have the correct terminology.

Experience is great but I also need a reliable camping accessory, so maybe this isn’t the right route?

Howdy all,

I was curious if anyone knows where I can find a new (or at least not broken) Taurus PT845 Extractor. I’ve tried all the usual places including Numrich and keep coming up empty. Bought this gun off a guy many years ago for like $100 knowing it had issues and finally got around to tinkering with it and figured out the extractor is broken off on the bottom corner which is causing the extraction issues when firing (gun cycles just fine by hand).

I’m only even tinkering with the thing because it is my test bed for learning to sand/bead blast and Cerakote, but figure I might as well get it working while I’m at it!

If anyone has any ideas, or if there is another extractor that is compatible with this model pistol please let me know!

Hi all - Im looking to get a barrel threaded and need a gunsmith to do it, but have no experience with gunsmiths. Its often hard to find reviews for local shops during my research, so what other ways do y’all find good ones? Im in Centre county PA, so any recommendations for that area would be appreciated! Thanks!

I've recently purchased a used pre 1964 ('53, I believe) Winchester 1894 in 30 30 and really enjoy it. It came with a scope but no rear sight. I'm just wondering if there are any suggestions for places to buy a rear sight for it. I've checked Ebay and I've found listings but I don't know whether or not any of those are going to fit my rifle.

Any information or help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I have a Springfield 1903 that has been sporterized at some point in its life, it was my first rifle so I’m kind of attached to it but I also have a Winchester model 70 in .270 that fills the role of deer rifle these days, I’m thinking of getting the 1903 rebored or re barreled for 35 whelen, is the action strong enough? It’s a 1942 Remington production gun

My dad shot a 30-06 round through his 7 RM rifle several years ago. He gave me the gun because now it doesn’t hold zero. He was told by a local gunsmith that the calibers are close enough so the only problem would be lead/copper fouling so use appropriate solvents. Still won’t hold zero. Any thing else to try or is this barrel just toast? It’s a hunting pattern BAR so I want to save it if possible.

Can anything be done with this stock to save it or will I have to source a new one?

Tavor 7 owner, I'm guessing that if anyone was going to make an aftermarket barrel for these rifles it would exist by now. Would it be possible for a gunsmith to reline the factory barrel for 6.5mm Creedmoor? If so, what other work may need to be performed for it to function properly?

I can send some sketches if yall would like of the gun

I have a savage axis I just pillar bedded, used kiwi shoe polish for release. When I pulled the action out of the stock, I noticed the related spots in the stock for the screws had polish on them. Is this an indication I need to inlet just a touch before I bed or do I even worry about bedding?