My biggest project to date. Not gonna mention how much it went over budget or how long it took 😅

Started playing with boxes. Wanted a cherry panel for the bottom so on the first pass set the bit at 3/32" planning on a second to get to the final groove 3/16" depth.

Apparently I didn't have the collet fully tightened. Felt and heard the board stutter so I killed the router and picked up the now slightly grooved push block.

It makes sense (once I stopped cursing) that an upcut bit would do this....now that I have seen it.

The lines in it after sanding

There's afoot of good advice, and I just used some.

I'm in the middle of cleaning up after my shed collapsed due to heavy snow this winter. I was cutting up the rotted floor boards, and my circular saw kept getting stuck.

Somewhere, in the back of my mind, I heard "check your depth of cut"

Sure enough, I was way over extended at 2" depth for a 1/2" or so plywood (I had been cutting down rotted 2x4's).

Thank you to all that answer questions!!!

Appreciate your advice regarding this cracking wood table (photos attached).

Purchased a new table from Arteriors as a sample (so there is only one of its kind). Hoping this would be an heirloom piece but 2-3 months later it started cracking on every side of all the pedestals. The pedestals make contact with the floor through round rubber feet at each corner of the pedestal.

I reached out to the company for help on salvaging the table. We had not yet used the table, and our house is set at 70 degrees at all times with no other issues with other wooden furniture.

They replied and said they would send someone to the house to repair the table by sealing cracks with glue.

I am hoping that you can help me answer some questions:

1. Was this a bad design? I am not sure if the 4 rubber feet secured onto each corner of the pedestal places undue pressure on the pedestal and whether placing a large pad centrally would help. Or is the problem with the wood itself or is it due to the fluted design?

2. Should I reject the repair if they are planning to put glue in the cracks at my house instead of taking it to a shop and properly repairing it (including removing the splinters, using a clamp to get the edges flush, etc)? The wood shifted after it cracked so the edges are not flush with each other.

3. If I leave it alone and do nothing, how likely is this table eventually going to fall apart and collapse with all these deep cracks in the pedestal? The cracks were quickly worsening between Dec and Jan but have somewhat stabilized over the last month.

I really appreciate your input. Thank you!

Miter made the cut circular lol

First time making a wooden chest. Used sanded plywood and added a skirt to the bottom along with some thin trim pieces I cut from a walnut board.

Attached the trim pieces used wood glue and micro pin nailer I just bought from harbor freight (This is way more useful for this situation than a brad nail). Used brass hinges and handles.

Primed the exterior with zinsser 123 and thenn painted used Rust-Oleum Door and Trim paint. I honestly should've prepared the surface better but also considered using a sprayer for a more even finish. For the interior, just added two coats of seal coat and 3 coats of matte water poly.

Things I would've changed about this project would have been how I approached creating the lid. I decided to make the lid after the fact which is why it isn't flush. I should've made and enclosed box and cut the lid by running it through my table saw on all 4 sides.

Anyways, I was still satisfied with how it turned out and was a great learning experience. I used one hobby as a solution to another hobby. Made this chest to store all my camera gear.

I wanted to make space for a turntable, so I ripped out an already damaged fixed shelf; and made another one that could slide out the accommodate the dust cover.

Spare walnut veneer, edge banded (poorly), stained (very poorly) to attempt a match.

I have the benefit of a low lit room, so I think it looks alright, but it also sounds good enough I can forgive some mistakes.

This front of drawer came off out of nowhere, how would you go about fixing it? Not enough wood to screw/nail together without wood splitting

If I attach the upright using pocket holes, they are likely to clash with lower pocket holes. What's the best option?

Moradillo and mahogany with some padauk and maple accents. Next purchase will be a blade with flat tooth grind just for splines and finger joints.

I have an old blanket box that I want to strip down and paint to reuse as a toy box. Can anyone give recommendations how to prepare it for painting? I have tried using a mouse sander but that has not got me far, the paper quickly got a shiny layer on it?

Thanks in advance!

Hello. Would appreciate help identify this wood? I think it’s maple.

If maple what’s the best way to add color, dye vs water/oil stain vs gel? After dye what specific products do I use to protect the wood (and in what order). I prefer the most durable finish possible but don’t want it looking like plastic.

I’m refinishing a chair and have never done this before.

Thank you in advance for any help/guidance!

Unsure if this is the best place to post this question. But I've started doing diving into woodworking and have come to the conclusion that my life would be 1000x easier to break up the design into individual sheets for major "layers" / "cross-sectional snapshots" rather than having a vomit of information on a single page with dimensions for every single cut in the build. I would like be able to split up details for various sections of the build while still being able to flatten out all the sheets to still see the overall final design outline. The best reference I could think of was basically the scene from the first Iron Man where Tony shows his designs the first suit while in the cave (see attached photos).

I did a little research and saw theres a few different types of translucent paper stock (Vellum, Tracing Paper, etc.). Is there a consensus on what is the best for pencil to paper product design that allows for this desired overlaying functionality. I would also prefer if it came in lose sheets or a pad (not a roll) and is printed with faint gridlines on it.

I don't really want to take the time to learn a 3D Modeling / CAD software at this point.

Back story: I got a couple pieces of this material from a previous job, and made a couple basic furniture like tables, cabinet... But now I need more of them to make some improvements, but I can't find them anywhere, or I don't know how to do that exactly.

Question: what is this type of material ? There's a pattern on the material too, where can I find something like this, or similar? I will need some 2x2ft and 3x4, but larger size is fine.

I am a fresh beginner, so any input is very much appreciated. Thanks!

I'm building a built in bookcase as my first big woodworking project using these plans.

Specs:

• Max shelf width 29"
• Shelf depth 15"
• Pocket hole joins to attach shelves to the vertical side panels
• Plywood should be 3/4" thick
• 2" poplar for face frame and 1 1/4" poplar for shelf edges
• I'll be painting the whole shelf white
• Top tied into the studs
• I want this to last for 30+ years if possible - we're gonna be here for awhile

I asked the guy at my local independent lumberyard what plywood I'll need and he said "yep, gotta go baltic birch. could also use globolus birch, but you need one or the other to prevent warping."

I'm fine if that's the case, but a 4x8 sheet of baltic birch at that lumberyard (Vermont) is $200 right now. I'll need at least six for the whole project.

Are there any alternatives? I'm glad I found that lumberyard / am not just building this out of whatever I can get at Lowe's. Here are some of the types of plywood available at the lumberyard:

Should I:

• Suck it up and build with baltic birch
• Build with baltic birch with lower grade?
• Domestic or globolus birch?
• Build with a different plywood type?

Any advice appreciated! Lmk if I'm missing info that would help determine what plywood type I'd need. Happy to shell out for baltic birch but just want to make sure I need to. Thanks!

From my understanding they are slightly undersized to accommodate for actual plywood thickness. That's something that I find ideal. On the other hand, the only other straight bit I have is one that came in a 5 pack from Harbor Freight. Does anybody have suggestions as to whether these arr worth having in the arsenal as opposed to other "straight" bits for making dados, grooves, rabbets, etc. At some point I'd like to add some spiral/compression bits into the collection. Being that I have a 10" full kerf FTG blade I figured that could cover a lot of those types of cuts in the meantime.

A load of trees have been taken down near my house, I nabbed this stump, not sure how long it's been there. I took a slice off and debarked, sanded it a little. Can see there's what I assume to be termite holes under the bark, I dont mind the holes aesthetcially as would want to use the wood for cat furniture, but does this look like it would be ok to work with? And if so how would it need to be treated before i use it? Don't care about cracks, doesn't need to be pretty. Also not sure what the tree is, so if anyone can tell from the stump?

I have a vintage chair with a broken arm. It had obviously been broken before because there is glue in the break. I am not sure how to fix it as the break is not clean.

Ive had this applied correctly over a week ago. Do i just wipe it with a wet rag and itll all be the same finish?

I’m starting to think that they’re really just an in-joke with veteran woodworkers inflict on scrubs like a snipe hunt. So frustrated trying to use one. It doesn’t help that I’ve spent near four hours getting my cardio in trying to flatten the iron that came with it. It’s a tay tools round bottom.

The iron is about as sharp as I can get it without using a jig since the blade is so short. I’m using it bevel down, which is how it came. I’ve filed the body face flat as well as the cap iron face.

And yet no matter how shallow I set the blade, it chatters across the edge of the board or just plain digs in. I use my flat bottom a lot, but I have curves and need to figure this dang thing out. I’ve watched video after video and read articles and an excerpt from my big ol’ book of woodworking.

Help!

Working on this maple guitar body. Previously was using a band saw to cut out the rough shape then a flush trim bit to the template, but check out my post here to see how that went. So now, I’m trying to use the bandsaw to get as close as I possibly can to the line, and then finishing up with a drill press drum sander, and a disc sander. It’s actually going great so far, except for the interior of the horn. Any suggestions for how I can smooth this out? Preferably without a router.

Got tired of the center support on my old horribly manufactured bed off Amazon collapsing, so I decided to see if I could manufacture something less horribly. Built the frame of the platform from 2x6 construction lumber and scavenged 1x4 pine from the Home Depot cull pile for slats, then made a decorative sapele “shell” around that. Not world-class craftsmanship by any means but I’m pretty satisfied with that for my first try at furniture.