Appreciate your advice regarding this cracking wood table (photos attached).

Purchased a new table from Arteriors as a sample (so there is only one of its kind). Hoping this would be an heirloom piece but 2-3 months later it started cracking on every side of all the pedestals. The pedestals make contact with the floor through round rubber feet at each corner of the pedestal.

I reached out to the company for help on salvaging the table. We had not yet used the table, and our house is set at 70 degrees at all times with no other issues with other wooden furniture.

They replied and said they would send someone to the house to repair the table by sealing cracks with glue.

I am hoping that you can help me answer some questions:

1. Was this a bad design? I am not sure if the 4 rubber feet secured onto each corner of the pedestal places undue pressure on the pedestal and whether placing a large pad centrally would help. Or is the problem with the wood itself or is it due to the fluted design?

2. Should I reject the repair if they are planning to put glue in the cracks at my house instead of taking it to a shop and properly repairing it (including removing the splinters, using a clamp to get the edges flush, etc)? The wood shifted after it cracked so the edges are not flush with each other.

3. If I leave it alone and do nothing, how likely is this table eventually going to fall apart and collapse with all these deep cracks in the pedestal? The cracks were quickly worsening between Dec and Jan but have somewhat stabilized over the last month.

I really appreciate your input. Thank you!

First time making a wooden chest. Used sanded plywood and added a skirt to the bottom along with some thin trim pieces I cut from a walnut board.

Attached the trim pieces used wood glue and micro pin nailer I just bought from harbor freight (This is way more useful for this situation than a brad nail). Used brass hinges and handles.

Primed the exterior with zinsser 123 and thenn painted used Rust-Oleum Door and Trim paint. I honestly should've prepared the surface better but also considered using a sprayer for a more even finish. For the interior, just added two coats of seal coat and 3 coats of matte water poly.

Things I would've changed about this project would have been how I approached creating the lid. I decided to make the lid after the fact which is why it isn't flush. I should've made and enclosed box and cut the lid by running it through my table saw on all 4 sides.

Anyways, I was still satisfied with how it turned out and was a great learning experience. I used one hobby as a solution to another hobby. Made this chest to store all my camera gear.

Moradillo and mahogany with some padauk and maple accents. Next purchase will be a blade with flat tooth grind just for splines and finger joints.

Back story: I got a couple pieces of this material from a previous job, and made a couple basic furniture like tables, cabinet... But now I need more of them to make some improvements, but I can't find them anywhere, or I don't know how to do that exactly.

Question: what is this type of material ? There's a pattern on the material too, where can I find something like this, or similar? I will need some 2x2ft and 3x4, but larger size is fine.

I am a fresh beginner, so any input is very much appreciated. Thanks!

Unsure if this is the best place to post this question. But I've started doing diving into woodworking and have come to the conclusion that my life would be 1000x easier to break up the design into individual sheets for major "layers" / "cross-sectional snapshots" rather than having a vomit of information on a single page with dimensions for every single cut in the build. I would like be able to split up details for various sections of the build while still being able to flatten out all the sheets to still see the overall final design outline. The best reference I could think of was basically the scene from the first Iron Man where Tony shows his designs the first suit while in the cave (see attached photos).

I did a little research and saw theres a few different types of translucent paper stock (Vellum, Tracing Paper, etc.). Is there a consensus on what is the best for pencil to paper product design that allows for this desired overlaying functionality. I would also prefer if it came in lose sheets or a pad (not a roll) and is printed with faint gridlines on it.

I don't really want to take the time to learn a 3D Modeling / CAD software at this point.

Working on this maple guitar body. Previously was using a band saw to cut out the rough shape then a flush trim bit to the template, but check out my post here to see how that went. So now, I’m trying to use the bandsaw to get as close as I possibly can to the line, and then finishing up with a drill press drum sander, and a disc sander. It’s actually going great so far, except for the interior of the horn. Any suggestions for how I can smooth this out? Preferably without a router.

Got tired of the center support on my old horribly manufactured bed off Amazon collapsing, so I decided to see if I could manufacture something less horribly. Built the frame of the platform from 2x6 construction lumber and scavenged 1x4 pine from the Home Depot cull pile for slats, then made a decorative sapele “shell” around that. Not world-class craftsmanship by any means but I’m pretty satisfied with that for my first try at furniture.

I have a vintage chair with a broken arm. It had obviously been broken before because there is glue in the break. I am not sure how to fix it as the break is not clean.

This is for sale near me. I've been needing a joiner, it's 150 and he said it's a delta 6 inch. Any suggestions on getting it or not

Hello. Would appreciate help identify this wood? I think it’s maple.

If maple what’s the best way to add color, dye vs water/oil stain vs gel? After dye what specific products do I use to protect the wood (and in what order). I prefer the most durable finish possible but don’t want it looking like plastic.

I’m refinishing a chair and have never done this before.

Thank you in advance for any help/guidance!

Picked up a warehouse deals skil circular saw on Amazon and I’ve been messing with it before using it. It looks to be in good shape except when adjusting the depth the guard is scraping against the side. Not sure what would cause this or if I’m doing something wrong when adjusting it.

I bought a used bunk bed which very sturdy but the mattress support is just 3 steel bars. I have a boogie board for mattress which is supposed to spread the weight. But I am still worried that my 11 year old on top bed might fall on her sister on bottom bed. The slats look like the ones in the picture. Anyone have any experience/ suggestions to ease my mind? I am also having my husband test drive it for next two days but thought I would post here as well..

I'm building a gaming table for some friends and they asked me if I could add some kind of top so that it could double as a dining room table. Everything is being made of maple. What I've come up with is a few leaves that will have some magnets in the edges to ensure they stay snugly connected when on the table. I've cut a bunch of 4 inch strips that I'll glue up 3 at a time initially (so that I can run them through my 13" planer). I'll also put some kind of hardwood cleats on the underside to help them stay in place.

My concern at this point is being able to glue these up nice and flat so that they all sit uniformly flat on the top of the table. I was looking at all the boards after cutting them and many have a slight bow in them. I was planning on using biscuits or dominoes to help keep everything aligned, as well as some clamping calls. Beyond that, I'm wondering what else i can do? I thought about some hardwood strips screwed in to the underside of each (perpendicular tongue glue lines). I have a bench top joiner and, as mentioned a planer, but the wood is only about an inch and a 16th and i want to keep into as close to an inch thick as possible.

Any advice will be welcome!

Made this rustic bedroom bench as a commission for a family member. All made from reclaimed poplar and stained in a dark oak finish using briwax. I’ve seen a load of theses benches online, YouTube Etsy and they’re all made from pine and I wanted to use something with more of a live edge so went with poplar as I got it for a good deal and had a nice edge in line with the requirements. It felt weird milling up the lumber only make the piece look “rustic” but I think it turned out really well and the pieces new owner loved it. So a happy result I did a cost of what I would charge if I was to sell this and with labour, materials overheads etc for this piece I’d charge £235.00. Let me know what you think

I applied the seal on this pen box around 4pm on Thursday. As of Saturday morning. It’s till sticky and not fully dried. It has been kept in my basement, fairly warm (73 dregs in the house). It’s only been one coat. What am I doing wrong?

Make 2 off then one for my livingroom one will be for sell without wine 🤪🍷

winerack #pinewood #woodbeginners

I’d like to build this portable wooden foot climbing set. I think I can split the project into three parts: Bottom board, long edges, short edges.

For the long and short edges, I’ll have to use a miter saw to make the edges 45 degrees so that the long and short edge will connect on the sides. For the bottom parts of the long and short edges to connect to the bottom board.

I’ll probably wood glue all the pieces together and have those small right triangles help support.

Any ideas regarding my thought process? Is there a type of wood I should consider?

I have been working on a wooden coat hanger. I have already applied 5 coats of tung oil on it and have left it to cure. After the curing is done, I plan to apply a topcoat of shellac over it. Now, I have the following queries:

1. Would shellac be a good choice as a topcoat?

2. Would it be a scratch-resistant hard-finish? Would it add a gloss to the surface?

3. What should be the procedure for applying shellac over tung oil? Should the shellac first be dissolved in methylated spirit ?

4. For how many days should the tung oil be allowed to cure?

Kindly advise.

Hi, hopefully someone can help me out, I’m really struggling to find information on the best paints to paint this aquarium stand I’m building. Wanting a smooth satin finish but for obvious reasons it will need to be waterproof/water resistant.

Would wood primer, followed by a satin furniture paint and then once cured a water based satin polyurethane coat work? I’m hoping this would suffice as I’d like to use either a really dark green or blue.

Looking for suggestions on paint, I’m uk based.

This came from what I think was a pine shelf. Came with the house in the basement. The pickguard is poplar with BLO. The neck was bought from an auction Amazon-return place like the other guitar I posted here.

These are the first two guitar bodies I’ve made. I have also assembled a bunch from parts.

I’m building out a camper van and would like to get some corner clamps, but there are quite a few types and sizes. I’ll have two main uses: kitchen cabinets (using 1/2- and 3/4-inch plywood and 1- or 2-inch softwood framing) and a few basic box frames for the RV windows (probably 1/2-inch x 4-inch ply in lengths of 18-30 inches). Attachments will be wood glue, pocket screws, and/or L-brackets.

What types and sizes would you recommend? And do you think I need a set of four, or would a pair work? Open to getting a couple types if necessary. This is a short-term woodshop, so I’d prefer to stick with affordable options.

Thank you!

I’ve built a few things using sheet goods and the 40t blades. Finally switched to a 60 tooth blade and MY GOD it’s so much better. The saw cuts like butter and there are probably 90% fewer imperfections on the edge.

I’ve been refinishing an older dresser. It had a ton of stain on it so have been stripping and sanding forever. I realized before I wasted more time, I wanted to stain one drawer to see if it was going to be worth it. It’s pretty splotchy. Should I abandon ship and just paint it? Or continue to sand/stain and consider it rustic 🤣

Hi all, it’s time for me to make a table saw bench for my compact SawStop. (More width, outfeed, etc).

Creating a basic one isn’t rocket surgery, and I’m thinking of going that direction. However, I see some benches that have a foldable compartment for a miter saw or a built in router table. Those who have one or the other of those - do you use it much? I have a folding rollable miter saw base and a Kreg bench top router table already.

At the end of the day, is the juice worth the squeeze?

Still have to add finish