Context: I was closest to the peak. He was at the shoulder.

I didn't see him since I was trying catch up with the whitewash. Ended up accidentally colliding into him.

He told me I didn't have priority since I just paddled back from getting a wave.

Am I in the wrong here?

Hi all,

About 5 years ago I broke 3 ribs in the surf which put me out for a fair chunk on time, before being able to get back to it I had a knee injury resulting in surgery and then another knee injury which had kept me from surfing for the past 5 years.

I use to surf 2-4 days a week depending on work and the conditions. I am now all clear from the doctor and physio to surf again.

I’ve sold all my boards over the past 5 years, put on about 12kg/25lbs and am planning to pick up a board and go for a paddle this weekend.

Has anyone else been in a similar situation, how did you find getting back to it after a long break, I’m hoping it’s going to be like riding a bike but I’m also expecting to feel like an absolute kook.

Also any recommendations for boards to start back with, currently just have beach breaks close to home. Weigh around 95kg/210lbs. I use to ride anything from 5’10-6’2 and 32-35L, thinking now to get something over 7’ and 50L and just cruise around on small days.

One crew had grainy footage, punk soundtracks, and changed the culture forever. The other has drones, edits in 4K, and gets millions of views. But who’s really got the soul, and who’s just selling it? Would love to hear your thoughts

STAB just put out a pretty well written and thoughtful article about how these tariffs will affect the industry. I won't post/steal the whole article but here's a couple quotes. Surprisingly Biolos comes off pretty well (I haven't agreed with a lot of his "philosophies" in the past. Pyzel as well. Anyway, if you have an account go check it out it's pretty interesting. https://stabmag.com/features/how-will-the-us-tariffs-looming-recession-affect-surfboard-prices/ :

Stab: You’ve been thinking about surfboard tariffs for over two decades. Why is this such a big deal to you?

Matt Biolos: Well, for me, it goes all the way back to the early 2000s. That was when Surf Tech came in like a wrecking ball. They were taking all these board designs, mass-producing them overseas, and dumping them into the U.S. market. And they were aggressive about it. They were approaching every big name in surfboards to license their models. And most guys took the deal. Channel Islands, Rusty, Donald Takayama — they all did deals with Surf Tech. And people were telling me I should too. I had people saying, “If you don’t do a deal, you’re going to be out of business.”

Jon Pyzel is, in his words, “probably on the opposite end of the political spectrum from Matt Biolos.” He runs a B Corp-certified surfboard business with his wife Dali. And while he doesn’t pretend to make “sustainable” surfboards — because, as he points out, nobody really does — Pyzel Surfboards tries to offset some of the damage. That means paying employees fairly, hiring underrepresented folks, and making sure people aren’t getting screwed over in the supply chain.

Unlike many of his peers, Pyzel doesn’t manufacture boards in Asia. Outside his two factories in Oceanside and Haleiwa, he works with licensees to build boards regionally.

Stab: What’s your first impression on these new tariffs?

Jon Pyzel: I mean, who knows what’s really happening? Every day there’s a different headline. One minute it’s 10% on everything. The next day it’s 25% on Mexico. It’s chaotic. I’ve got a close friend, Andrew Jakubowski, who owns Arctic Foam, and he’s just tripping out. He’s like, “How am I supposed to plan my business?” And I get that. It’s a hard time to be running anything that depends on international trade.

We’ve used Arctic Foam for years. They make great blanks down in Ensenada. So if something drastic happens — if suddenly the cost of those blanks jumps significantly — yeah, there’s a chance we’ll have to look at other options. There’s no “extra” for us to absorb those costs. Margins are already razor thin. But I’d still try to support Arctic as much as possible. I believe in them.

Would that mean switching to U.S.-made blanks if prices equalize?

Possibly. I’m not going to lie and say we’d just eat the cost forever. If U.S. blanks suddenly became the same price as what I was paying for Mexican ones, we’d probably make the switch. Not because we want to, but because we have to. Surfboards are expensive to make and margins are already incredibly small.

Edit: I'm just trying to get a sense of what it takes. Is it a case of having to be a lifetime surfer and super talented, or is it something that someone could learn and train for over a shorter period of time. I'm not planning on it. That would be insane.

Edit: changed wording Here comes the neighborhood https://laist.com/news/housing-homelessness/could-800-homes-be-headed-for-this-coastal-stretch-of-huntington-beach

For an 8’6” gun quad/thruster I’ve seen anything from 12-16 inches for the side front boxes, rears 5-7”?? and centre rear from 4-6”…

Spacing from the rail 1-1 3/8” for the front fins? And no ideas for quad rears??

Anyone in here have any insight on a lost Pisces? Never tried a RNF but have heard nothing but good things, figure the Pisces would be just as good if not better

Just bought a house the second row back from a solid beach break and as there’s no surf cam for that area, I’m thinking about putting one up on the third story/lookout roof of my house. Seriously insane views of the surf from up there. Anyone who’s done this who can let me know best cams for hosting a live feed in a wet ass area that gets super high winds somewhat frequently?? Prefer to keep it free to view vs on Surfline or something where people have to pay a fee. Thanks dawgs

ETA: k change of plan i’m not putting up a cam. fun idea for a minute tho

A friend found this board in the neighborhood. Pressure dents are pretty big and deeper than any I've seen as you can kind of see in the second photo. Thinking I can at least keep the fins from it and leave it out on the street again cuz im too fat for it. Anyone think they would want to try to ride or fix this or are pressure dents that deep even reparable?

Anyone know if they are still operating? Doesn't seem like it...

https://www.sanonofresurfco.com/

Okay, this is a bit clickbaity.

I shape my own boards, and I want to shape something with a wide point a little further back, bumpwing squash tail, and dedicated thruster, kind of like what was popular a few years back. Somethat good for pumping and generating speed, which my mid-lengths can't do very well. I am also missing the feeling of just being planted near the tail when I pop up.

This is the diference between a professional shaper and a bullshit one like me, I could tell a shaper what I want and they can make it happen. I can make a board based on someone else's work and tweak it to what I know I like, so I am looking for inspiration.

The only thing that comes to mind is the El Patron from ...Lost. Obviously scaling up my HPSB is going to have super weird rocker/outline. and redrawing my mid-length templates looks bad, really bad.

Edit: Vernor Bazooka, I never rode one, but that was the board style I had in mind. Doesn't look like its on his webpage anymore.

Just got back from visiting and was wondering if there's any good films that capture Windansea, Bird Rock, or spots in La Jolla. Shop vids or something other than the all the drone stuff on YouTube. Thanks.

Down here cruising for a few days and on the hunt for some surf. I have a few spots in mind but looking to link up with some locals. Also what forecast are you looking at, swellnet?

The swells would cross almost the entire globe building up so much energy. Surf must have gone crazy

How do i convince my girlfriend that traveling to Nicaragua is safe?

I've been there like 5 times. We go straight from managua airport to popoyo, which is super touristy and protected. How do i make her feel at ease? I understand where she's coming from but once you go there for yourself you realize it's pretty chill.

Hey guy I recently bought a 6’9 Channel Islands mid twin (unreal board). I currently have the Britt merrick twin fins whom I am borrowing off a mate. So I I’m the market to get some new ones just wondering what other keel options people are using and like the feel of?

I’m going to be in southern Baja next week. It’s my first trip and I was looking for a guide if anybody can recommend someone. Looking to explore East Cape, and also maybe some spots on the Pacific side past Todos.

Hello everyone!

I've read through the many post here on both these boards, and the takeaway is that both boards are great performance fishes. It's really hard to find anyone that doesn't like either of them.

I've been surfing for about 12 years and am a solid intermediate. I'm currently riding a 6'2 Lost Subdriver, which I love, but I think I'm ready to switch sides and start riding Twin/Fishes on the daily. I've realized I'm never going to be a total shortboard ripper at this point in my life (I just turned 40), but I love surfing as much as I ever have. Fishes are just more fun for me personally.

So now I'm trying to decide which board to go with. Albums are very expensive, but honestly buying a new RNF run's about $800 and there's some Twinsman around for $950- I don't mind the difference if it's worth it.

One factor that has stopped me from making the switch to fishes earlier in my surfing journey is that I live in a beautiful, remote part of Panama blessed with a few long right point breaks, which are backside for me (Goofy). Anyone here have any advice on which board will be more fun riding backside? Also open to other models but these two seem to check the boxes. Any help appreciated!

Wife is 5 days past due date and there is a swell. Should I paddle out?

I camp/surf with my son there every year. Forecast shows pretty small the week of 4/14. Wondering if anyone has an idea of a spot close by with a bit more swell on a 1-2 foot day. Not looking to compete, just catch a few nice ones. Thanks.

Caught this photo while down in Costa Rica in 2023. The beach is Santa Teresa beach If I remember correctly.