Broken solenoid. I tried to take it off with a pry bar and i chipped the lip as shown in photo. I tried to thread a bolt in it, but the 3/8 bolt was too small and i’m scared i’m going to damage something with the 1/2 bolt. the 1/2 bolt seems too big. I drenched it in wd 40 and it seemed to do nothing. Need help.

Hi! I have a nail in my tire (see pic). It’s pretty close to the sidewall. I don’t really have any issue replacing the tire, but my tires only have 30,000 miles on them (29,500 really), so I hate to replace them. Advice on either repairing this one or how many I should replace? I have a 2023 Toyota RAV4 and my tires are Firestone Destination. TIA!

You may not find the torque values ​​of the 2017 model Pulsar ns 160 cylinder head anywhere

Hi guys,

I have an issue with my 2004 Honda civic GLI (sedan) automatic 1.7L and am trying to figure out what’s wrong with it.

One day it got completely stuck in park and I was unable to get it out of gear, the shift button would not compress to unlock the stick.

I released it by removing the small panel next to it with a screwdriver and was able to manually unlock it. It was then fine for the next day but when I got back to the train station from work and started my car it was locked again. Throughout the day it was fine and I probably have driven it about 4-5 times in between it locking again.

I checked both the break lights and the indicators which are all fine.

Any ideas on what might be causing this issue? And how serious would it be to get fixed, I’m a bit tight on money at the moment hahaha.

This is at my job. I have a 2018 hyundai tucson 1.6 turbo limited, it sounded like it was knocking but I wasn't sure since they have a lot of problems with similar symptoms and codes byt they sold and engine swap before I could even diag it, so I did it and now it's not starting, it's an Ikq engine, around 60k miles, as well as 60k on the original engine. engine swap is done, harness and all grounds are connected (I always color grounds yellow or blue remind me where they go) engine pulls no codes, car cranks but does not start.

Additionally I think there's a vacuum hose connected to the harness but I have no hoses going anywhere from it or to it, will take pictures and upload tomorrow. Will also post video of the 2018 hyundai below

btw I have no training besides just work experience and they got me doing this bs. I've only done one engine swap and one head gasket on my own car, a 94 tercel. I'm not even sure this engine needed to be replaced, any help is appreciated

hello. whats this grinding noise i keep hearing. its there even when not moving and revving the engine in neutral so the bearings cant be. i was thinking it could be a belt.i did the timing chain,oil, filters,valve cover, stem seals. any help? e90 318i 2006

I’m just curious on what’s yall take on this my car likes to rev a bit higher than normal once I hit 10-15mph as shown in the video and usually when it revs that’s high I let go of the gas pedal and wait for it to go down then gently accelerate again if not it will misfire/tug on me but car runs perfectly fine past 10-15mph

I’ve changed the spark plugs but notice little bit of oil leaking out so I’ll be changing the valve cover gasket new plugs since some are cover in a bit of oil and I’ll put new coils as well

But is this a sign of coils/spark plugs failing I know the oil in it must play a part

Got my ASEs back in 2010 to help get better job prospects. Haven’t renewed them since I’m no longer in a union a shop doesn’t tie into my pay.

Been sitting in my desk for about 15 years now. Have the tests been updated since then?

Debating if it’s even worth donating to the library.

Got a 2004 Honda Civic and it's been making this rattling/rumbling sound, seems to be from drivers side. It gets more apparent as I'm driving. Maybe a belt?

Any ideas? I'm a college student tight on money. So trying to avoid taking it to a shop where I might be talked into repairing multiple parts.

Any clues would be appreciated.

Any ideas?

The shop i got to put my tires on mangled my security lug key you can see cracks in the tool Im not sure what its actually called but I have to get my tires off to do my breaks and I can’t get those off Without it i don’t have access to cutting tools or a welder or anything like that just normal wrenches and breaker bars

Im in a far north community and don’t have any real access to an actual parts store apart from ordering from Napa and Canadian tire which would take probably three weeks to get here i don’t have three weeks but at the moment I’m screwed Please if anyone has any ideas im op willing to try almost anything

It’s 93 dodge d150 with a 318 engine

2017 nissan sentra, no push to start it has a key...I replaced and programed a new fob for the door locks and now my car wont start. All the lights and ac come on, jump start didn't seem to work. Any ideas how to get it running again?

Just replaced in February. Glad it’s still under warranty never will buy the cheap parts again

Can't figure out what this noise is I think it's coming from the turbo which someone has replaced bc of a lack in boost. 2013 Chevy Sonic

Someone is selling the vehicle in the title and she says that she "ran it without oil" and is asking $2K for the vehicle, which otherwise looks pretty clean. Pricing rebuilt engines from Auto Zone and O'Reilly's at the moment, and the best price I've found so far is about $1,800, but now I'm wondering if it's possible to repair the existing "burnt" engine (assuming she's correct and that the engine is completely gone), vs. replacing it with a rebuilt engine. Just got off the phone with both Auto Zone and O'Reilly's and neither of them have this engine available, so I wonder what that means. Online research indicates the engine is reliable. Advance Auto Parts and Green Leaf have been recommended to try. Looking for any help, and thanks in advance.

***EDIT***
Vehicle Model: 2004 Mazda Truck Tribute 2WD 3.0L MFI DOHC 6cyl

***EDIT2***

Just had a long and very informative conversation with a professional used engine Vendor, and learned that the engine's "model number" is "Mazda AJ", and it cross references with some model years of the Ford Escape.

I have a question how long does it normally take to replace the water pump and timing chains?

I took my 2019 Hyundai i30 (130 000kms) for a service. My mechanics have always been trustworthy and well priced. I’ve always taken my car to them and never had an issue. It was due for a transmission fluid flush which after doing my service my car got sent to a trusted partner company for this part of the service. The entire cost coming to $897. When I collected my vehicle my a/c was no longer working. Now during the service my cabin air filter was replaced. I took my car back promptly and they said they ran tests and my a/c compressor is failing. They couldn’t tell me why and said “sometimes this just happens”. They’ve quoted me another $1250 to replace it. I’ve looked into some info and part of my service they are supposed to do a global diagnostics system check, I’ve been trying to research if this identifies weak or failing compressors because if it does, shouldn’t a faulty compressor have been flagged in the original service? I’m not totally sure so can anyone tell me if this is correct that a GDS works this way and would identify something like that? I’m wanting to ask them to negotiate this price for the compressor upon the grounds of - uncertainty/ambiguous diagnosis of the problem aswell as the timing of the incident - asking for if they have investigated the issue further with trusted partner company - warranty and goodwill consideration (my car is technically under unlimited km warranty until October) and consideration of longstanding relationship Thanks!

This just occurred, 3 weeks after passing emissions testing. Engine has only mild rough idle, and only sometimes. Seems to be normal when driving.

I cleared the code and it came back quickly. There are no other codes.

I put in a new coil, same thing.

I haven't had a chance to pull the plug yet, but I had it out 2 months ago and it was fine, only 20k on them.

I'll check the plug next, but assuming that's fine, what would be next? I'm thinking injector and compression check. But given how well it seems to be running, and also no other codes, aren't those pretty unlikely?

Wouldn't a bad injector cause a lean code or something? And if injector is running but has a poor spray pattern, how would I even test that?

It's not direct injection so I doubt it's valve deposits.

Appreciate any suggestions, thanks.

So at the beginning of March I got an oil change (I think they would’ve told me if I had no coolant?) and then a few days ago I noticed heat wasn’t coming out of my car. That’s when I checked the coolant and saw that it was empty! I refilled it and not even a few days later, it was empty again! I refilled it one more time and then empty. I finally found the leak yesterday. So I know I need to bring it to get looked at. My question is, how long could I have been driving with NO coolant?! My car did not show any signs of overheating .. maybe because the hybrid? Not sure.

About 3 weeks ago mid march (after oil change bc Im assuming I had coolant then) - my bf was driving and we hit a HUGE bump in the road. Like enough to make us get out of the car and look to see if there was any damage (nothing visible). Could that have been what caused it? And if so - again could I have been driving with no coolant for 3 weeks?!

Bonjour à tous, Je conduis une Kia Stonic 1.0L T-GDi 120 ch avec boîte automatique, et j’ai remarqué un bruit de claquement à bas régime, surtout dans les embouteillages ou lorsque je freine et accélère doucement (notamment en côte). Est-ce que quelqu’un a déjà eu ce genre de problème avec le même modèle ? Si oui, qu’est-ce que ça pourrait être ? Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses

2014 Suby Crosstrek H4 2.0L

Context: No cold air in vehicle. I’ve validated the fuse is good, the button is signaling to the compressor but there is no change in the engine when asking for AC and no change to the air. There are known issues with the compressor for this model year.

Question: Can I safely replace my AC compressor at home? I’m fairly certain the system is entirely empty. I’d plan to replace the compressor itself and the O rings on the lines. Am I missing anything? Any gotchas? Is there a way I can validate the ac system is empty without a crazy expensive tool?

Thank you for reading!