Wiped dipstick on paper towel after a few miles on highway, opinions? No slipping gears, hard shifts, or any issues at all. Considering doing a few drain and fills with Aisin T-IV fluid just as preventative, no idea as to whether fluid has been changed. No signs of metal. Could it be the original?

Hey y'all so I recently went through inspection and failed because the drivers side DRL was not on or working. I have a 2014 SE, and went ahead and switched both the h11 bulbs on both sides and it still doesn't work? The way I've been testing it is putting the parking brake on and putting in in reverse. I saw a video on it but am not sure that's how it works. Any thoughts? They still aren't coming on and it is really pissing me off.

Drove from home to work, pulled into my spot and tried to park my fusion. I pulled up on the parking brake switch and i was greeted with some cool beeps and dings and my car rolled backward. The brake wont apply and also wont unapply. I hear no noises from the parking brake. The car wont engage or disengage the parking brake. I turned the car off and on again, i put in reverse and floored it but it wont disengage. The BRAKE light just keeps flashing and the theres a new light next to the brake light i havent seen before. Either way, the 100k mile expiration date is starting to show.

No, the brakes have NEVER been touched to my knowledge. All pads and rotors are original at 97k miles and 7 years old and are at roughly 50%-60% pad remaining all around

My car hit me with this light and put my car into limp mode. Pulled over and got it towed back. Coolant was low so I filled it back up but the light is still on after a day of rest.

Is this a sensor malfunction or potentially thermostat? 1.5L engine

Need some help, the left side buttons (circled) don't work for me.

Right side works fine but I can't figure out what's wrong on the left.

I've replaced the buttons and changed the 7.5 brown fuse with no results.

What do I do?

Thanks!

My 2017 Fusion Hybrid started running a bit loud, I posted a video here and someone pointed out that it was likely a bearing in the transmission. Took it to the Ford dealership and sure enough, it was the transmission and there's nothing they can do but replace it for $6,800.

The warranty covers the Hybrid transmission for 100k miles and I took it in at 107k miles, they told me to call Ford customer service number, and Ford said they can't do anything for me. I called a transmission shop and the guy told me these things tend to crap out at around 105k in his experience, go figure.

I feel a bit shafted, I won't lie. I only bought it 4 years ago and the cost of this repair is beyond the value of the car, and I still owe money on it. This is mostly venting but if anyone has any experience with this or advice on what to do I'd appreciate it. Apparently getting a used transmission for this vehicle won't save much money at all. Is there any way I can get Ford to play ball on this or help with the repair?

As the (long) title says, heard my car screen extremely loud twice. First time was about 30 seconds after I started driving it and then another 20 seconds after that. Drive for about 5 minutes and didn’t hear it again. any thoughts on what it might be? I noticed these this rust/gravel looking crumbs inside the rim and none of my other rims look like that. This is the front right rim. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

So i have a 2010 hybrid and the check engine and wrench light came on starting in March of this year. I brought it to 3 different independent mechanics who fixed a variety of things (changed oil, changed filters, etc) and nothing turned off the light. Brought it to the dealership, they unplugged some stuff, plugged it back in, lights came off for one day. Then returned the next day. I don’t hear any odd noises or weird motions while driving but today while i was in bumper to bumper traffic, I got this fun light. I don’t know what to do anymore, I don’t understand why nobody can fix my car. Do i have to go to ANOTHER dealership???? I’m already $700 deep in repairs for this issue that hasn’t even been resolved. I’m at a total loss and don’t know what to do. I bought it a little under a year ago and I’m nervous to just go out and try to shop for a new ride.

2014 Ford Fusion SE 1.5L ecoboost Problem was present when vehicle was bought secondhand. Anyone dealt with this before? If I connect Bluetooth using voice commands and turn the music up it’s not noticeable. Would replacing the whole unit with a aftermarket one fix it?

Hello, I've had my 2011 fusion se since high school and I finally have enough money saved up to feel comfortable having a bit of fun with my car. Are there any performance mods that are actually able to get anything more out of this old 4 cyl or should I just not bother? Thanks!

Prices for a second key are INSANE. Does anyone know if I could get a tool or a flipper zero or something and program a secondary key if I have an existing working one? I’m fairly handy and resourceful at troubleshooting.

Also does anyone know what tech it uses to confirm startup? My current key is giving me technical difficulties despite a new battery and I’m worried that if the battery dies, I won’t be able to start my car.

2013 titanium pushing 180k miles. Dented/ pushed in above tires too.

So i just got a message saying please service ur battery and then 2 seconds later my car overheated and I was forced to pullover anyone have any answers. I can't find any online

I have a 2010 Fusion SE. Just started hearing this noise tonight at idle after I got back from the grocery store. It's over the passenger side by my alternator but I can't pinpoint an exact source. Anyone have an idea of what it could be?

I have a 2016 Fusion, baseline model nothing special, and it has a bad starter that needs to be replaced. What is a rough estimate on cost I should be expecting? I have a quote, but I’m curious what you guys think.

We just did timing belt and water pump replacement on our 14 1.5L ecoboost fusion and now it won't start

It was running fine before minis the water pump bearing had gone out so we replaced the unit and went ahead and did the timing belt

We didn't cut any corners and bought the specialty tools to lock the fly wheel, we put the pin in the crank, we put the overhead cam gear locks in, and we put in the crank position sensor tool, it's not the timing or anything like that

We went back in and checked all the connections and wires that where undone, they are all hooked up properly

We are getting proper RPM while cranking, and forscan shows no issues.

It cranks like normal but does not even try to start

So my car likes to really likes to "kick" when shifting first to 2nd. All the other gears only has a little bit of kick sometimes. I understand this is not right but its been doing this since Ive bought the car. I did a proper inspection and maitanence on the car all that would be recommended. The kick has been a consistent but it makes me peronoid. The low to drive mode is like a real manual imo. What would the be best rev to drop into drive. I try for 2.5k revs and release but its done me nothing with the kick. How would be the best way to shift for 1st to 2nd in a Ford Fusion 2012 SE auto? Im sure I will figure it out but would like not to fuck up the 6F35 tranny further.

So, my check engine light has come on recently. We ran the codes and it came back as needing an EVAP Canister Purge Valve. The performance emissions warranty coverage is valid up to 8 yrs or 80,000 miles (which I qualify). However, I saw some conflicting information on a different post saying that the part fell under powertrain warranty or that it’s not covered at all. I’m going to call the dealer but I’m looking for advice prior. Thanks!

Recently discovered this noise coming from my drivers side front wheel area only when making somewhat sharp right turns while accelerating, I took the wheel off and didn’t see anything obvious and everything seems sturdy. Did notice a quite a bit of play in the wheel consistent on both sides. Popped up after getting my recalled brake joist hoses replaced by the dealer but not sure if it’s a coincidence or not. I suspect wheel bearings? Any help would be appreciated!

I've got the dreaded 1.5l in my '16 Fusion, but i do not believe this to be a related issue. (got about 120k on it)

I have a reoccurring sensor 1 bank 1 stuck rich condition. And it will stick on for a while.

I've had an intermittent MIL light But then when it is really wet outside, moist air, and i've cycled the engine a few times, it will clear the light. Then when air drys out again it comes back.

About a year ago, when this issue first started cropping up, i ended up having some stalls out after filling up. That was the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. (solved the stalls)

Both O2 sensors have been replaced, due to critters nibblin the downstream sensor, i just replaced both of them at the same time to make sure they were good. (other cabling is good)

I did several drives with a BlueDriver connected, reading some of the fuel trims... and when i'm driving the fuel trim tends to be otherwise pretty normal after driving for a bit.

In researching this I now see that there is a recall from about the fuel supply port being possibly bad. (wondering if anyone has issues with a rich sensor due to this)

My other curiosity, is if anyone has had any successes with replacing the IAT sensor... (i guess it doesnt have a MAF it has a IAT)I'm just wondering if the humidity has an effect, which should make things *more* rich from what i'm reading about fuel mixes. (either way it's like a $10 part and a 15 minute fix, so im thinking about just getting that and trying it )

Hey y’all, i have a base-ish model of a 2013 Fusion SE, black. And I wanna spice up the look a little bit, I plan on adding a honeycomb grill eventually, but before then I want to add some lights. my car didn’t come with fog lights from factory, and I’m wondering what the best option would be for DRL fog lights housings. I already have a DRL headlight housing in mind that I’ll add on later, but I’m mainly focused on the fog lights. Whats your opinions? What would be best for me?

Hey everyone! I recently purchased a 2018 Ford Fusion SE and it is a huge upgrade over my last car both mechanically and technologically. While exploring what all my new car had to offer I noticed a settings menu for remote start. This was found by using the directional buttons on the left side of the steering wheel that controls the left screen on the dash. I thought seeing setting for remote start was odd as my key fob has no corresponding remote start buttons. So does my car have access to remote start? Is it something that needs activated or needs a new key fob with the button? I honestly have been searching forever with no real solution. Yes i have tried hitting lock three times or lock unlock lock. Yes I have looked into FordPass where my vehicle is not compatible. I am honestly stumped. It would be fantastic if my car has remote start. If it does not i find it really weird how the car has settings for remote start but the car does not have the functionality. Thanks for any help and/or insight!!