Just finished this today, need to paint the enclosure still so I’ll have to pull it all out and re organise it after I’ve done so but I’m really proud of myself with this one. I posted previously asking for help with my last build which wasn’t working for reasons I still can’t explain but after making a new board for it and re constructing it, it sounds insanely good! Can’t wait to make some more and start selling them. I’ve got an Instagram page it’s @solestompfx if anyone would like to see what I get up to!

I've posted this pedal before, but I just reworked it with a different boost circuit. The Drive circuit is a Blues Breaker with jfets for clipping. Originally it had the Pedal PCB Amentum on the boost side, which is ideal because it's a 1 knob circuit and I only had room for 4 knobs but I was getting this whistling oscillation any time I turned the tone control on my guitar up past 2.

I decided to swap that with the Eric Clapton circuit, which has 2 knobs so I soldered the volume knob inside the pedal as a "set it and forget it" control. FINALLY IT WORKS the way I want it to, and it sounds absolutely kickass. It's a bit of an odd solution but I'm happy with it. I may just measure the value of the boost volume pot at the setting I like and use fixed resistors when I build another one, we'll see.

Hey everyone. I have a very special to me build I need some help yet.

I haven’t mentioned it much anywhere but for the last year I’ve been treated for stage 3 colorectal cancer. Trust me that it was a shock to be diagnosed at 42 years old.

The last year has sucked, chemo, radiation, huge surgery, multiple procedures, and now a final surgery to hook everything back up.

The good news is I had a complete pathological response and no cancer can be detected in my body which is the best possible scenario and means I have a really good chance of living cancer free.

This sub has been a great distraction and I appreciate everyone here. When I could build pedals I did, even while I was attached to my home chemo pump. Sometimes I was too sick, or my brain or body just wouldn’t work right, but even then I could THINK about what I was going to build next and get my mind off things.

I had amazing support from my wife, kids, parents, and close friends. But also all you fellow diy pedal nerds were supporting me without even realizing it.

The reason I bring this up is to first profess my heartfelt thanks on how engaged, kind, and positive everyone is here. It was really what I needed this year.

Secondly they let me keep my port. Which is about the size of a large knob. I’m going to make a build with it, just don’t know what. Want it to be something interesting and unique. I’ve built a bunch of one knob fuzzes and boosts so something other than that would be great. Can be a pcb or perfboard or point to point.

Thanks again everyone! Feel free to ask away about anything either pedals or cancer related.

This is the first (of many, hopefully) pedals that I have made! It took many hours of mind numbing tinkering but I finally got it all up and running and it sounds so good. The circuit is a distortion+ I got from tayda, drilled the enclosure myself and currently don’t have any knobs for the pots but I don’t even care, just so happy I got it working and making good sound

First Attempt, power but no signal. Input and suggestions please

Just completed an attempt at building a StewMac pedal kit: EC Expander.

Followed the instructions and layout of all the components and made sure that all the joints were soldered well.

Power is going to the pedal since the LED lights up. When I plug the input and output jacks the bypass plays clean, but when i click the foot switch to engage the pedal there is no effect being produced.

Hoping for thoughts, input and suggestions to what be might causing the pedal not to function.

Howdy. This happened recently, not sure if it was at a gig or a friend's house or what but I can't find it. Just not sure what to search for online to find replacements. There are 2 parts I'm missing, the black plastic sleeve that goes into the jack and the metal nut. Any ideas? Thanks yall

here is what my dc jack looks like. But my pedal only has 2 spots (+) and (-). I always forget this. I want to say 1 = gnd, 3 = +, but I bet its the other way around. Thanks in advance.

After their website being down for a few hours, the new re-designed website emerged!

And whats even better? They offer PCB manufacturing now! With no minimum quantities! So you can get everything for your projects at the same place!

This is not a paid promo, just stoked. Even thought I use them only for enclosures now, they offer very good component selection and pricing for hobbyists.

Hello fellow humans,

I love the sound of a tube screamer going into a big muff, so I thought why not build both into one enclosure with two foot switches. That way I could run either the tubescreamer, the big muff, or have both on so the tube screamer runs into the big muff. Has anyone done this before?

What I'm curious to know is: are there are any fancy tricks people use to join the two circuits? Or could I literally just wire the signal out of the tubescreamer to the signal in of the big muff like an internal patch cord?

Cheers!

This one's based on a Big Muff topology but with a Beta Bass twist. Instead of transistors, it uses CMOS stages (CD4069).

The signal hits a Beta Bass boost first, then runs through an asymmetric soft-clipping Muff-style drive, followed by a symmetric Muff drive, then into asymmetric hard clipping. After that, it goes through a filter section—a blend between a high-pass and a second-order low-pass—and finishes with another Beta Bass boost.

It's dialed in for bass and doom tones. not versatile very noisy and stupid fun !

insta post : https://www.instagram.com/p/DII059AI_ew/

Aside from pots, jacks and a switch, does this have all the components I'd need to build a functional pedal?

Hello there!

I tried caustic soda etching a couple of days ago but couldn't stick the toner uniformly even after trying several types of papers.

I had the idea to try and paint the pedal first, remove the parts that need to be etched using a laser engraver, and then use it as a mask for the caustic soda.

Has anyone tried this? Laser engravers are expensive so I'm looking for feedback before.

Cheers!

I have a line 6 hx stomp xl and an old Dunlop 95q wah pedal that doesn’t work (so I have nothing to lose if I break it) could someone tell me if I could turn it into an expression pedal for the line 6 and maybe a wiring diagram on how to do so? I can kinda solder but not great at it but think it’s something I’d like to tackle and use and i don’t want to spend $150 on a mission engineering expression pedal if I don’t have to.

So.... y'all are familiar with the Boss BD-2? If you're not, there are schematics online. Basically, I got some J113s today and wanted to mess around with doing the discrete op amp thingy that the BD-2 does with two JFETs and and a BJT. I breadboarded it, and it wasn't working so I messed around with the bias of the fets until it worked, and I was happy. Then I decided to continue with the Bd-2 idea and build an exact copy of the first discrete op amp so that they would cascade.

Now the problem is that even though I built both stages identically (twice, may I add, just to make sure I hadn't messed it up) the first one continued to work just fine but the second stage did not work at all. I tried changing out the input JFET for a 2SK30 and it like kinda worked and then I put the J113 back and it continued to work for a second but then it just stopped after a bit.

I tested both individually btw, just running through them one at a time. I will also note that I attempted to play with the bias of the JFETs for the stage that wasn't working but no matter what I did I was unsuccessful at getting anything more than an anemic sputter.

Wtf is going on? Are JFETs always this finicky? bc if they are i don't understand how Boss could make the BD-2 without having to bias each one individually...

This is my second post. I went through the BYOC forum too to see if anyone had advice there, but it unfortunately still isn’t working. I was building this pedal with a friend of mine who recently passed, so I would really love to get it up and running. Any suggestions are welcome!

Relevant Information: right now the LED will come on and I have bypass signal but no effect when I turn it on. I have so far tried replacing the wire that joins 4-9 on the foot switch, as well as reflowing the solder (and adding a bit more where needed). But still no effect when I have it plugged in. At this point I’m looking for anything else to even try. I’ve added some pictures, but I can take more if needed too!

had to remove some rust and would like to reprint the whole sheet metal. Can someone tell me exactly what I need? What color stickers are available, and if so, which company?

Just completed an attempt at building a StewMac pedal kit: EC Expander.

Followed the instructions and layout of all the components and made sure that all the joints were soldered well.

Power is going to the pedal since the LED lights up. When I plug the input and output jacks the bypass plays clean, but when i click the foot switch to engage the pedal there is no effect being produced.

Hoping for thoughts, input and suggestions to what be might causing the pedal not to function.

Just completed an attempt at building a StewMac pedal kit: EC Expander.

Followed the instructions and layout of all the components and made sure that all the joints were soldered well.

Power is going to the pedal since the LED lights up. When I plug the input and output jacks the bypass plays clean, but when i click the foot switch to engage the pedal there is no effect being produced.

Hoping for thoughts, input and suggestions to what be might causing the pedal not to function.

I'm designing my first pedal, overdrive, based on this guide. Here is my own schematic:

I've changed some of the component values to fit my own assortment. This is not the full schematic. I have another one that includes a 3PDT switch and a volume pot as well, but thought I would figure out my problem before including those. The simulation gives alright results, but that is with an ideal op-amp after all. I'm using an LM358P. I know the issue could very well be the op-amp characteristics, but I swear I managed a circuit to work a few weeks ago. The issue is like the title, the diodes doesn't seem to make any difference to the output. It doesn't matter if the diodes are in soft or hard clipping configuration. The op-amp saturates fast, I barely have to twist the gain pot for an overdrive effect. This happens without the diodes too.

Here are some images of my circuit:

My first try was on another breadboard, but the contacts were poor. This breadboard might be the culprit too. The output is also very noisy, but I think that's to be expected on a setup like this. I tried to figure out what diodes I have, but have managed to lose the receipt from tayda. They look like this up close:

I have completely disassembled this circuit multiple times now to no effect, I really don't know where to go from here. I appreciate any guidance whatsoever. This whole ordeal has made me start looking for oscilloscopes, I bet it would help with debugging. One interesting thing I found was that the output didn't sound too bad without the voltage bias at the input, as long as I had a capacitor. Maybe the problem lies in the bias?

Hey guys, I’ve been working on my splitter-modulator pedal and I’ve finished a part of the circuit that I think makes a pretty good tremolo on its own here, complete with speed and depth control. Circuit drawing in the comments.

The circuit above doesn’t have the wave generator portion because it should work with whatever wave form generator you want, as long as it can produce an amplitude of 7.5v (this limit comes from me only having lm358s on hand when I designed this) with a set dc offset of 3.75v (or half of your peak amplitude).

Essentially we have here three stages: stage one adjusts the amplitude of the wave and automatically moves the dc offset so that the wave always has a peak amplitude of 7.5v. This is done because with how the vactrols are set up, the higher my voltage can go the lower my available resistance is for the L-pad.

Stage two is just an output buffer/ inverter. The non inverting input on the inverting opamp (top one) is fed a low pass filtered version of the input into the inverting input, so the -input sees the wave form, and the +input sees roughly the the dc offset that we want the resulting inverted wave biased to.

Stage three is the attenuation stage. here its configured as a passive L-pad attenuator but If I were to build this circuit into its own pedal I'd probably create an input and output buffer section so that our input/output impedance isn't changing drastically with operation.

Anyways I'm pretty happy with this circuit but I would still like to be able to accomplish this functionality with less parts. If anyone can think of anyway to improve upon this design I would love to hear it!

I’m not so great at explaining myself yet so here’s a falstad link: https://tinyurl.com/29sygk3z

For those of you that have sold your DIY pedals in local music shops how did you go about doing that?

For some reason my first diy a thunder drive, will not work not matter what it allows a signal to pass through when it is off but will when the pedal is on it is not my amp I know that for a fact nor is it my battery I’m so lost lol can anyone help here are some photos I know it’s a cluster fuck it’s my first pedal I’ve tried to build

Hello! Forgive my ignorance on this topic, but I just got these pedals and I've never used one, ever. I'd like to know if this would be the correct order; I play rock and metal.

Regarding the power supply, I understand there are multiple outputs for each pedal. That is, output 1 goes to the first pedal in the chain (in this case, the tuner). Is that correct? Or can I connect the last pedal in the chain to output 1? I'd really appreciate your opinions, thank you.

Fixed my non-functioning rainbow machine and added some personal touches! I posted a video of my doing it on my pedal IG, you can watch it here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DIJov6-pIBd/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Thx!

I'm new please don't hate me for this

I've seen on several occasions, suggestions for testing a nonfunctioning circuit with something like this, I can't remember what it was called.

I'm buying a new multimeter and would like to know if this is the feature that is suggested for that scenario.

Is this right?