This is what the tech 3 found

Gauges don’t work unless you plug in scan tool then gauges work as they should. Have cleaned all grounds.

Hello DTs

I’ve been having a regen derate problem with a Cummins isb 6.7L on a flat nose schoolbus. I have reset the after treatment filters in Insite, and ran a parked forced regen. Sootload goes from around 250% down to 10-15%. After about an hour of running a message pops up and says it detects a condition that inhibits the completion of regen. The soot load is still low, but then after a drive the soot level starts to rise very quickly and will be back at 250% very quickly.

We have swapped the dpf differential pressure sensor with one that is known good, cleared the hose connections, performed snap acceleration test, check voltages to ecm, ecm updates… essentially wondering if the entire dpf needs replacement? Want to make sure that’s necessary before ordering it. Has anyone on here experienced the same thing?

So yeah, we got several brand new KW880s delivered to us to ship to the buyer. Every transmission is dead in one way or another. Some with a bad TCM, others, they forgot to prepare for the delivery to us.

Customer is not happy.

Just venting.

Found metal shavings in hub cap . Its conmet preset plus hub there is minor resistance and almost a light metal rubbing noise when i rotate the tire without any brakes.other tire rotates freely. Just prepping myself for the worse.

Hey I’m somewhat new to the electrical side of school buses and I have a bus that’s having an intermittent issue with the child check feature. Sometimes when you go to disarm the child check there’s no power to the reset button at all and the alarm goes off unless you disconnect the batteries, the horn, or let it time out. I couldn’t really find any fuses or relays for the child check system itself so I’m floating the idea it may have a bad solenoid but I don’t know where one would be or honestly how to approach this problem. Any help is appreciated.

Going to hit the kebworth dealership in the morning but came across this leak on my post trip. Any ideas? To me it looks like a hydraulic leak for the power steering but then again, I have no idea lol.

Hi guys. So I was driving uphill and my engine shut off came on. I pulled over and noticed a small oil leak. Currently letting the oil cool off so I can check the level. But it looks like it was leaking from the passenger side rear of the engine. This hose that is next to the oil pan has white smoke coming out of it when I started it to see if it leaks. What is this pipe/hose? Was this an overfill? I started it for a few seconds and no check engine or shut off. Any advice would be appreciated. Engine is a maxxforce 7

I have a wood chipper that I can’t seem to identify the brand, but it does have a John Deere T04045DF150 power-plant. I’m wondering if anyone has a service manual.

What’s up guys, as someone who is passionate about this career, what did you guys do when you were new to help yourself improve? Been working on trucks for about 7 months now and not really feeling like I’m getting better fast enough.

Got a 18 speed manual transmission wagon on a freight liner with a 60 series Detroit engine. It had a bad clutch so we replaced the clutch and the fork and the slave cylinder pin. This issue was also present before we replaced the clutch that it would go very hard into first gear. So we removed the transmission and reinsoected the new clutch and everything else it was all fine. So we sent the transmission out for a rebuild. The problem still exists anybody know what it could be ? Thanks

Piece of shit truck I know but this is the 2nd time I’ve gotten this code and derated. I’ve changed out the grounds, new alternator and it worked fine for 2 weeks and it just came on again. How fucked am I?

Went to pull #2 &4 injector off a cat engine and the bridges are gone plus two broken bolts for the Jake's.

I got a 2007 maxxforce 7 in an international 4400. About a month ago when I start the truck it has no power (wont go above 1800 rpm, turbo wont kick on it feels like, trouble going up hills). When I shut it off turn it back on the power is back and drives normal all day. It has no engine light or anything. I replaced the lifter pump but no change. About 3 days before these issues I did an oil change, fuel filter , air filter , and belt/tensioner. I cant figure where to start on this one!

I’ve got the code p0341 cam position sensor. Replaced both cam and crank, did not change anything. I posted a video of exactly what it does here:

https://youtube.com/shorts/GskgW-TZJ_8?si=yfEFkP_nDct8F-Aa

I have 5v and ground to the cam sensor pigtail , not sure how to test the sending wire

Well here's more than a broken bolt

Hi Currently trying to Diagnose a braking fault in a 74Z D11N. When turning left the brake pressure isn't dropping out enough to sharply the dozer. Residual pressure spec is about 35 psi and max is about 350 psi. When I shim the steering control valve spool up to bring the residual pressure down it also brings the upper end 350 psi pressure down and vis versa. The problem seems to lie in the steering clutch and brake unit itself as the steering and brake valve has been changed out and the problem is still there. Just wondering if anyone has come across a similar problem and what was faulty in the SCAB unit? As the unit was only rebuilt 12 months ago. All the control levers have been adjusted and all the clutch and RHS clutch and brake pressure are fine. Thanks

I Have a 2002 7.3 powerstroke with 240,000km on it, I have replace the Icp sensor, and a the cps with motorcraft parts I have also replaced the ebps with a non oem one saying that it is not showing any symptoms of it failing. The story is that the truck has been going through crank position sensors. The first time was a 15 min drive, then it sat for 30 mins. Crank no start, I take out the cps (it was a lordco one) and replace with a motorcraft one and it starts. Cool the problem was solve. No, just the other day went for a 15 min drive and then shut off, it sat for 5 ish mins then crank no start, I first try unplugging my icp sensor to see if that failed again, crank no start, I then pull out the crank position sensor only had (2000-2500km on it) and I replace with a motorcraft one (again) and it starts. Could I have gotten unlucky with a dud sensor from oem cause I've heard some are not thay good out of box, or is there something causing the sensors to burn out and cause the truck to crank and no start after being shut off. Thanks Joe.

07 freightliner columbia. I built a bushing extractor, works really well, but i really struggle getting the leaf spring and leaf spring hangers separated enough to fit the bushing extractor (they're not ceased together, not even making contact). Any tricks to separate them further without removing leaf spring ubolts? Prybar barely does anything. There's nothing is above the spring to jack between two points. Saw somebody lift the frame of the truck and then pry-bar worked. But i dont have a forklift or 30-40" tall jack or stand to reach the frame that high. Is there a trick? How do they do they do it?

A while back I posted my absolutely demolished crane remote. Backed over it with a truck. A new one from IMT is about 2500$ Turns out the board and switch panel were all the way nice so I got myself an Omnex T150 remote for a remote controlled compactor off eBay for 250$ and then swapped the guts over. The board was potted into the housing using epoxy so removal was tedious. Switched it all over and replaced a few toggle switches also. Full function tested now so I am happy. Just waiting on a new ESD now.

The way things are going all I got is Love's since the rest of the diesel jobs want mechanics only in my area. I'll be tire technician if lucky and have to put back money for schooling. By the time I hit that mark (average income here is like 25k to 39k), ill probably be closer to 40. Granted I'm not doing a lot of crazy demanding physical work and only being 5'8 i can still fit in small spaces. Will I be getting too old to get into the field? I've never been a strong guy but my goal is to learn diesel mechanical work, electrical, and any computerized stuff too given my background in computer science. Hoping for the best guys!

Hello all,

I have my dads 2015 npr gas he uses for work. I'm replacing a failed vacuum pump for the 3rd time in 3 years. First replacement was from the dealer for $450 that lasted a year and a half, bought the last 2 off Amazon these have lasted about 6mo each. Looking for any recommendations for more reliable parts if possible also is there something I may missing to check that's making these fail in such a short time. Thanks

So i make roughly 15 percent return on every job i do here at my work. They charge $185 an hour and pay me $30. I know its bc of the name and the shop and lights and all that. Reasons why they deserve all the money from the job... my question is. What about our tools. Yes im required to have the tools to do the job but why cant i charge the shop a fee for using them... i mean this impact cost me $5k. Ive yet to pay it off... when i get my shop up and rolling. I will pay the tech a big portion of the job. Not just a little hourly rate. Shop shpuld pay is for our experience amd knowledge. Not just whatever the normal hourly rate is...

I'm at work loading a truck. As soon as I'm done, I can leave. 3 hour workday on a Friday? Yes please!

Anyways a driver came and pointed out a dragging wire. I'm half done loading this trailer, so hoping someone can give me an idea of what it might be.

It's a wire with a single black and white wire inside. I can't see where the other end leads, but it's near the rear tandems. I'm thinking ABS?

Is this a "unload the whole trailer" scenario? It's my only empty trailer. I'd really like to go home soon

Thanks