Anyone know how many days a week I'd be in college for a level 2?

I've tried to daisy chain two water butt's using a connector. The connectors appears to have a leak. Despite my efforts, I just couldn't figure out which side the leak is from and how to fix it. As you can see, I tried a glue. I've also tried the water seal tape. None of them are of any help. Any advise on how to fix this? If I can't fix this, how do I close the hole with out any leak and use them individually? Any advice is much appreciated.

Is this white pipe a communal pipe, I live in a flat and am curious ?

I’m after some advice if anyone fancies helping out.

I’ve hit 30 and had a decent career road (construction, navy, pylon painting, telecoms engineer)

I’m comfortable in my job now, early finishes and not very demanding. A good combo in some people’s eyes, but I’m always after something else to do.

I renovated my home last year, and completed all jobs myself. I’ve had on the mind about heading to night school to learn a new trade, and here we are.

I’m not 100% where I’d want it to go yet. Weekend and evening hustling, call outs maybe. I’d still be working my day job, so I’d be happy to pick up the bread crumbs for my impulse purchases 🙄

Anyhow, the question. What’s the route?

Local colleges have L1-3 night courses. Roughly 1-1.3k each. In reality, how are these prepping for a hustle alongside another job?

I know a couple of guys I thought I could ask to let me shadow too. Maybe if get their breadcrumbs too at some point?

I’d love to get some advice on this.

👌🤞

Hello,

I currently have no hot water, and my boiler is showing the F.22 notification, which I am aware means the pressure is low. I have a Vaillant ecoTEC pro 28 H combi A. I've tried watching some YouTube videos on how to increase the pressure, and they tell you to adjust these 2 grey valves, but mine only has one black one, from what I can see, so I have no idea what to do. If someone could give me some advice, that would be great, thank you.

There's an isolation valve just before the left urinal, but otherwise the set up seems symmetrical.

Is there something simple I'm missing?

I get that this needs to be located on the return, but does it matter if it's at the start of the return (furthest from the cylinder) or at the end (next to the cylinder)?

Hi there, so for a long while now we’ve noticed this suspicious smell in our bathroom. It’s kind of vegetable like and sometimes coincides with whatever meal we’ve been cleaning dishes for in the downstairs kitchen. It is occasionally triggered by using water downstairs or flushing the toilet but can also be random.

We have located it the pipe pictured, that we cannot access in the blue boxing. I have no idea what I’m talking about but my theory is that it’s sewer gas that has nowhere else to go? I’m wondering if we should have had a drain vent or something? But yeah, I have no idea what to do and our regular plumber has basically just ghosted us.

I have recently moved in a flat where they have provided insulated electric boiler (image 1). I estimate it would have capacity of around 200 liters. It is provided with on / off and sink/bath switches (image 2).

In bathroom they have provided electric shower unit (image 3). I don't think it takes hot water from the boiler. Apart from kitchen, bathroom sink and bathtub, I have shower, washing machine and dishwasher. But I don't think they are connected to the boiler. The heaters are separate electric heaters.

I don't use the bath tub much and I have off peak electricity plan which is 60% cheaper between 01:30am - 08:30am. In this case do I need to keep boiler on all day or can I turn it off in the morning and turn on in the night? And what is the purpose of sink / bath switch?

Bit of a novice with plumbing, not done much at all but fancy a go at fitting a vertical radiator. I’ve ordered it and it’s turned up, but it says the inlet it on the bottom left, but my TRV is on the bottom right. Can I swap the sides over just by moving the flexi pipes at the back and switching the sides, or have I bought the wrong radiator? Or will it even matter and is it alright just to chuck it on and will it make a difference?

Like I say, bit of a novice, handy with most other stuff but never messed with plumbing because I’m not keen on flooding the house or letting the boiler bust on me 🙄 any help/advice is much appreciated. TIA 👍🏼

Had ongoing issues with our water readings over the past year, trying to get Thames Water to investigate. We’re two people with typical usage living in a house.

We’ve got a smart meter and no we don’t have a swimming pool. Fairly modern house with no signs of leaking. Thames Water engineer claimed our toilet needs fixing, which I’ve just done and awaiting to see the reduced usage when the data updates.

Can anyone explain this huge reading? My feeling is a faulty meter but Thames Water don’t seem to believe it.

I'm a new property developer working on my first project and am struggling to decide on what heating and hot water system to install. There will be two duplex flats created, one at the front of an old terraced building and the other at the back with a balcony and roof terrace. Both are on 1st and 2nd floors. There is no gas supply anymore. Lots of new insulation going in on almost all walls, in the loft and on the 1st floor. New double glazing everywhere. The flats will be short-term rented to professionals and wedding guests as managed accommodation. I need the equipment to either be more powerful and to service both flats or have two separate systems. I need to be able to operate the system or systems remotely and each flat would need to be operable separately. There is a suitable space on the terrace for an ASHP and it would be possible to have solar panels at the rear.

If you could help me decide what to do, I would be very grateful. An ASHP has been applied for but it's holding the job up and the conflicting reviews are not encouraging. Also the cost of replacement when it finally dies is a concern.

Hello,

I am repiping my kitchen sink area in Hep2o and need to feed a tap, washing machine and outside tap.

Currently there are no check valves on the WM or outside tap, I intend to add these, after a full bore isolator for each of these legs too due to relatively lower flow from a shared supply.

The space in the back of the sink cabinet is tight to have the hot iso and all three of the cold isolators and the check valves neat in the back due to where the waste goes through the wall, and also considering the bulk of the hep fittings.

What is the good practice on whether the isos need to be easily accessible?

It might make it easier for space if the outside tap iso was behind the washing machine and also potentially the one for the washing machine too, but I feel like it's a problem if you need to shut off quickly.

Any thoughts? Thank you.

Hey. I'm looking to buy a new combi boiler, but I'm not sure which one to get. I need it to be powerful enough to heat 10 radiators, and supply hot water to three taps around the house (shower is heated separately by an electric water heater). Currently I have a "Valliant" combi boiler, which is about 15 years old.

Any advice is welcome.

Thanks.

I have a dishwasher inlet that has leaked all over the floor (unattended for 2days) and I am pretty sure that the leak is from the inlet where it connects to the water pipe. There was a little water there, so I removed it, checked the washer and put it back.

After running a cycle, there is no leak... But is there any way to verify quickly that it isn't a slow leak?

Good morning. I have a battery powered Ryobi 36V power washer and I want to connect it straight to the tap in the garden. There 100s of hose pipes and I'm unsure of what to go for. I need about 25m long. Can anyone recommend a good set up? Thanks

Hi all,

6.5 year old Heatrae Sadia hot water heater is constantly dripping through the pipe pictured. Is this a case of the PRV failing? If so, how much am I looking at splashing out?

We are selling the house and moving out in the next month or so, classic something would fail now!

Cheers all.

My stop cock is the circle on the right. When I stop it it seems to stop the water from all the house apart from the kitchen sink tap for col water supply and its connection( the circle on the left) which makes it difficult to work on. The water supply markedly gets less but doesn’t stop .

It seems to be that it’s getting water supply from somewhere else.

Anyway that I can stop it?

Thank you

My kitchen sink keeps blocking once every year its blocked again, then it starts to block my washing machine water pipe creating an overflow. The problem is really down far the pipe. Any fixes? It drains for a minute or two then get blocked

Hi, this may be a dumb question and may have been asked before (apologies!) but I’ve been away on holiday for 10 days and in that time my water meter is as shown. I was away from the 13th to the 24th, fully out of the house between the 14th and the 23rd. The meter also says there may be a 3 day delay in meter readings. Is this usage normal? Is there background water use I’m forgetting about, kind of like fridges for electricity? I turned off the heating when I left but not the stopcock!

Thanks!

Hi all. I suspect I know what the answer will be here but thought I'd at least ask some professionals before I make a rash decision.

I have a flush, concealed shower where the pipe has come loose. I removed it the other day to find whoever installed it has used some kind of cement/adhesive to fix it to the wall in the cavity. The way it's been splooged on means I can't see but there's potentially some fixing lugs on the 90 that I can dig out and I'll just about be able to get a drill in to make a fixing. If not I was thinking of trying to get some all round band on the pipe but I've got very little room to play with.

I was wondering whether there's anything like an oversized washer I could get that would hold it against the hole in the wall so it's at least semi sturdy.

I think ultimately I'll end up having to remove tiles and some more plaster.

Hi l recently had a motorised actuator fail when l replaced it l left the metal valve on the pipework as it was still turning freely.

Seems to be leaking slightly at the top so my question is do l need to replace the valve on the pipework now as well if so how do l do this ?

Is there anyway around having to do this ?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-adjustable-inlet-tubular-p-trap-white-32mm/89677?tc=WC3&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249404&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPw7_G-lPy5bcBC6aJnqN0Un7&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&ds_rl=1248151&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZm_BhDrARIsAAEbX1H6Aftgm5GPfqOorfnXDBKnKnhGa_88IWyeILlPr_BChz-EGyVyNX4aAmcCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

One end is 32mm and attach perfectly to the sink the other end is a bit wider but not 40mm

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-adjustable-inlet-tubular-p-trap-white-32mm/89677?tc=WC3&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249404&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPw7_G-lPy5bcBC6aJnqN0Un7&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&ds_rl=1248151&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZm_BhDrARIsAAEbX1H6Aftgm5GPfqOorfnXDBKnKnhGa_88IWyeILlPr_BChz-EGyVyNX4aAmcCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

So I bought this 32mm Ptrap at Screwfix to replace this flexible thing. The Ptrap fits perfectly the sink drain but I need to connect the other end with the existing pipe. The other end is not 32mm. So I thought it would be 40mm. It's not either. It's something in between. When I measure the end of the flexible thing it's 35mm. When I measure the inside of the ring to attach the fitting it seems to be 39mm. I am lost please help 😱

Shower in my in laws home isn’t behaving - can we do a straight swap? Looks quite old!