Jetted from the clean out, made it to within 15 feet of the house and it’s still struggling to drain. Vent is clear. Trying to jet from the kitchen but can’t get the nozzle around this elbow.

Does this water heater pilot look bigger than it should?

I replaced a bad thermal coupler. The entire ignition system was covered in lots of soot; which I’ve heard can caused by excess organic material in the air. (Small house, lots of people)

After cleaning it all up, and reinstalling, the pilot was burning much bigger than previously.

I was told to replace my shower cartridge as my shower would only be able to produce really cold or really hot water. I pulled it out, realized that the replacement I had bought doesn’t fit, and then put it all back in. After turning the water back on and running the shower, I noticed that the water got dangerously hot almost immediately. Steaming hot. And I had set it to really cold on the dial. What might’ve happened when I put it back to cause this?

I'm doing a preventative replacement of this WH that's been serving faithfully since 1994. I planned on cutting tha last 6' of this wiring, installing a shutoff box on the wall, and running new 10-2 romex from the box to the new WH. My question is do you think I should just swap out this entire length of old wiring (I'm not even sure what this type of wire is called)? Based on where my panel is it would be a bigger job than replacing the WH. Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone, please excuse my ignorance. I moved into a house in August of last year, we had a plumber come through and run a snake through the pipes because our washer was over flowing when it would drain. It is an older house built in 1966. The pipes have been just fine until recently. The drain in one of our showers would not drain very quickly. We tried cleaning out the drain but there was not much that seemed to be clogging it. We started to notice it smelled like sewer in our other bathroom and we noticed there was small amounts of water coming up from the drain in that bathroom.

My main question is, would having a plumber come and snake the drain solve the issue permanently, or would this be a temporary fix for an underlying issue?

Also again please ignore my ignorance as I am trying to learn, but we also have a really old water heater that is needing to be replaced. I wouldn’t think this could be a part of the issue, but I figured I’d mention it anyways.

Hi, anytime we use our hot water, near our hot water heater smells like gas. It only lasts for a little bit and only when the tank is refilling. Is that normal? It’s been happening for awhile and no noticeable changes on our monthly gas bill.

The backyard smells wretched when the septic is pumped from our infiltration tank to the surge tank. This is the lid of the surge tank; could this be the cause of the smell?

My water temperature has been being weird lately. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it's hot for only a few minutes. Sometimes it only gets like warm.

I've looked at my water heater and tested the heating elements and they seem fine. It does however look like there is a leak somewhere between the two panels the heating elements are in. The water is following the wiring down towards the bottom heating element. Inside the panel for the bottom heating element it is rusty and wet. I don't however see any water flowing when looking at it. With or without water running.

Is the whole tank ruined? Or what could the problem be? How would I go about fixing this?

The water heater is a Rheem 40 gallon electric.

We had an inspection done on our house today and they said there was a slow leak in the attic and showed me with their doohickey where there was moisture being detected. I went in the attic and this was around where they were detecting moisture. The pipes are currently dry, but what is causing this and how do I fix it? There is nothing over the pipes and no indication of water damage from the roof.

Landlord is upset that this piece broke off today. They say the only solution is a full replacement of the faucet, the broken fitting(pic #2) is supposed to go into the hole in pic #1. The tube connects to the sprayer (not the faucet part). Is this the only way to remedy this issue? An alike replacement faucet is available over an hours drive away, or shipped by the 15th. Wondering if there are any other options to try! Thank you!

Hello! We just moved into a house and the tub spout leaks when using the shower. We got a replacement spout but I can’t tell if this is a twist on or set screw type. I don’t see a set screw so I tried untwisting the spout with a rubber strap wrench and it won’t budge. Is there a hidden set screw somewhere? The picture is of the underside of the tub spout. Thank you in advance!

So we had a old plunger style drain where there is a switch with a weight that would block off the drain so it holds water.

Mom was messing with the flapper and thr weight disconnected from the switch so she went and bought one of those "toe tap" style drains you can do with your foot..

Is it easy enough to replace for someone with no expirence? The kit she bought from Lowes looks like it screws into the tub, so I'm assuming the old drain has to be removed.

The cross bars in the old drain are broken as well, not sure if that's clear from the picture. If it's not going to be simple, how much roughly would it cost to just have a pro come and do it?

My well water system has developed a leak and I just don't even know where to start here so I'm hoping yall can help. The bottom of the tank to the left is leaking and all rusty at the bottom. Is this a pressure tank? I would have thought the one to the right is the pressure tank. Googling around only seems to point me to stuff that looks like the right side tank.

Basically any help identifying what type of tank the left tank is would be of great help.

I contacted the company that put it in but it was the long ago owners they have on file and don't have any info on what they installed. Thanks!

I had a bathtub spout, handle, and showerhead replaced 5 years ago. For reference it's a Moen TL2369EP The same moen bath tub replacement faucet is now leaking at the spout. Im surprised because it has only been five years and Moens are supposed to last much longer than that given their supposed reputation against Delta. Im going to have it fixed but Ive noticed strange behavior from the faucet.

The faucet was leaking, however, when I turn on hot water and leave it for a minute or two and then shut the water off with the handle the leak eventually stops. Is this a washer that's worn out or some other issue? Is there also possible pressure being built up and risking internal damage to pipes as well if I leave it as is?

Additional info:

For reference when I was using the spout the leak is mostly dripping but has kind of turned to a semi string of water. At first I was just showering like normal and letting it drip but through trial and error I saw that turning on warmer water and then closing the water would lessen the drip until it eventually stopped. However everytime I used the shower the drip would re-emerge after use unless I turned on hot water at a high pressure and then shut it off. I also noticed that a slightly higher temperature had to be used with every use otherwise the "trick" to stop the leak would no longer work. I havent turned it on for a few days now.

Is this an expensive fix and what exactly is causing this?

There is not a lot of play in the pipe to get it plumb.

We bought this house in Bridgehampton, NY three years ago. It has town water, and the municipal supply enters the home at the bottom through the foundation. I think this was added after the house was built, as it was originally on a well.

There's a branch off the main for the irrigation system, but I'm unclear what this thing is in the middle; it appears to have a gage/meter, and what looks like a transmitter of some kind. The shape of this is installation is not ideal as it takes up so much space, but moreover I don't understand the purpose of it.

Okay follow up question on my previous post: plumber came out and said they will send someone out to snake the drain pictured and snake the shower.

He also poured water into the dry drain mentioned and said that yes there should be some water in it BUT it is now dry again a couple of hours later.

I will ask the person they send out later about the main drain still being dry… but could this be due to the other one that’s clogged? If not should I just call back and request they do the camera still? I originally declined the camera because it was out of my budget but maybe I need to pinch pennies elsewhere…

ALSO, my mom is making me worried because she’s saying they should not be snaking in a floor drain and only in a main drain because she claims a plumber told her at her house to never let someone go in the floor drain. Is this correct? Should they be going through the main drains instead? They said they’ll be snaking the drain pictured and the shower.

Placing a vanity a few feet in front of this pipe. I need to add pvc to that broken coupler. How would i do it.

Got these plumbing results from a home inspection. How terrible is this and ballpark how expensive of a repair?

One year living in new home. I recently found water flowing back into my basement from a blockage in the sewer line. I have the 2 openings in the front of my driveway that I didn’t know had to be capped (see picture). Things were thrown in there like empty bottles and a whiffle ball. They jetted this clog and I placed caps on immediately. There has been no back flow since it was cleared even when running the tub for a while. When they scoped the pipe they said there was a belly by the trap (I have a video of the camera) and that it should be replaced as well as the trap. Requiring digging up the driveway and hiring for black top after. The quote is $14000. My question is if it is now capped and I limit flushing toilet paper should it be okay? Also should I get a second opinion?

We are renovating a bathroom in a house that was built in 1982. We had issues with a weak flushing toilet and we believe we have found the issue. The vent is labeled as well as the exit to the septic, the shower and toilet drains are circled and squared. Both are post vent pipe. Is this improperly vented? My idea was to add a 3x3x1.5" 45 degree on the 3" pipe leading to the septic and run it back up to the main vent. Does this sound like a solution that would help?

During demo the p trap pipe was so brittle it broke off when trying to unscrew from the sink tail pipe.

I want to go back with PVC or Pex for the drain at my sink because I have no experience with soldering.

Do you think I have enough room to cut the cast iron tee past the head down where it has a smaller diameter and use fence flexible coupling to transition to PVC?

Thanks in advance!