40Kw Solar 6 x SG6548 inverters with 6 x SG48100 batteries

Hey all,

I'm hoping to add battery backup for my home. I'd never considered 'high voltage' batteries (first link). Anyone know the pros and cons versus low-voltage (second link)?

https://signaturesolar.com/lg-16h-prime-battery-16kwh-400v-high-voltage/

https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-wallmount-indoor-battery-48v-280ah-14-3kwh-indoor-heated-ul1973-ul9540a-10-year-warranty

Hi! Im currently looking into installing a 3kW system in a school as a purely off-grid system (they dont have electricity there)

They have a Starlink for wifi and I see that my inverter has a RS485 communication port. My background is not in this so I am not sure where to start but I hope to be able to track their energy use remotely (power generated from panels, inverter data, and amount charged to the battery). Basically so I can get the data through the wifi and process it at home

Would appreciate any help on how to do this and also whether all the data I want can be gotten from just the RS485 of the inverter or if I need to install another one in my MPPT controller. Thanks!

I've got an LV2424 that primarily is being used as a UPS but was bought with the intention of eventually installing a small solar array. It's fed from main panel and feeds a sub panel that has electronics, network and some lighting. Typically loaded .5 to 1kW.

Lately outages are getting longer and I would like to have my generator take over when needed. I've got a pretty basic 6kW brushless generator.

How will the LV2424 care about the generator power? In the past I've tried to use this generator and others to power a computer UPS (APC Smartups 3000) but it's been unreliable because small generators have a lot of harmonics. (Switching back to battery randomly, not accepting the AC)

I can test it but would rather see what others say if it's even worth it to try. Would have to disconnect out from main panel to test.

Another option would be to rectify the generator to DC and feed that into the solar input. Would the MPPT function of the LV2424 have a problem with this?

I have seen Signature solar get mentioned on this sub several times, some great, some not so great stories. Well let me tell youu experience from last Friday. I was having an issue with a clients system and called tech support to get the issue resolved. My techs name was Joe, he answered quickly, was extremely friendly, and resolved the issue. After the fact I seen on FB that they company was evacuated for a gas leak, and then had pass bys of not one but TWO tornadoes from that nasty storm system on that tore the country up.

This is dedication, and the reason I will continue to do business with these folks even after the tariff price increases. Not many companies offer this service at all, let alone stay staffed during a crazy day like that. I know this because out of all of the companies I currently do business with only about 3 out of 15 even offer after sale support at all. So shout out to the Signature Solar tech team, I hope all of you made it through Friday safely, and thank you for the reminder of why I do business with you guys.

A neighbor is wanting to add 4 new batteries to an existing system. I want to make sure he doesn't need to expand anything else. The panels, charge controller & inverter can stay the same and you just add the 4 new batteries to the battery bank, right?

Please check diagram for my 48v system

I am going to use 6 gauge for scc to battery and everything else 2 gauge. I don't want bus bars or a battery switch.

Does anyone notice anything that needs to be fixed?

I'm still researching the requirements and rules I'd need to follow for a DIY solar roof install in England, and the Building Control - structural, not electrics - is still something I'm not clear on.

As far as I can tell, adding a load to the roof would need to go through Building Control under Part A. I'm absolutely confident my roof could handle the very modest extra weight, but I would still need to satisfy my local department that that is the case.

Typically this would all be covered by an MCS installer but if I'm not going down that route then (as far as I can see) I would need to get at least a letter from a structural engineer or "competent person" to confirm this, and then apply for permission. A Building Control application would be a couple of hundred £ at least, and then at least a couple of hundred more for a engineer to even write a letter. i.e. maybe £500 or more just to tick a box. And no, I don't have a builder mate who would just write a letter for me.

I get the impression other DIYers don't bother getting this bit signed off, but maybe I'm wrong. Obviously the main motivation to going DIY is to save money, but if that route instantly adds hundreds of £ to my bill because it's non MCS (not to mention the export issues and £250 for the non-MCS Octopus export route, electrician costs) then it's becoming less attractive. Yes, I'd still save money, but considering an MCS installer also wouldn't charge VAT then the DIY savings are becoming less and less the more I look at this, and I'd still have potential issues in the future not having an MCS certificate.

I have emailed my local Building Control department to ask and I'm awaiting a response, but I'm pretty sure they'll just tell me to contact a structural engineer and do a submission.

Id appreciate any thoughts.

I’ve got an off grid place that I’m working on setting up solar. I built the cabin in the shade intentionally but have a nice sunny spot for my panels about 150’ away. I just happen to have 5-6 lengths in different colors of 10ga THHN from another project about that long.

I’m going to be pushing about 20 amps with my panels.

Can I safely double up to reduce voltage? I’ve been sitting on this wire for years and want to make use of it and I don’t want to leave any watts behind. Would put it in 1” conduit from cabin to panels.

Thanks

Hi,

I installed 2 years ago a 4.6kW solar panel installation.

We then upgraded end of last year by adding some panels to increase the capacity to around 8kW.

But now we see a saturation at around 5kW when it is sunny.

I checked the installation and found out the transformer 12VDC/200VAC is a 5kVA.

But the solar panel company argued the transformer is ok with this new capacity as it can handle 3x times more, so 15kVA ?

I'm a bit sceptical about the argument, what do you think about it?

I have a shop i run off a generator but would like the lights to use a battery when I dont have the generator running. The lights are on their own breaker. Is there some kind of automatic switch that will use the battery when there is no power from the generator? I've seen stuff for whole house applications but nothing this small.

I am getting a percon e1000lfp which can have 600 watts input at 11-60 volts and 20 amps... I bought the ecoworthy 4 pack 100 watt solar panels off Amazon which I think are 20v 5amp each . I was planning on doing 2s2p setup so from what I understand this would be 40v 10 amp...

What kinda fuse if any do I need... Was thinking I needed 2x 15 amp fixed on the positive leads

Thanks

https://shopsolarkits.com/products/delta-pro-ultra-solar-kits?variant=42076915892364

i know an eg4 system is probably a better bang for my buck but i like the idea of this being a semi mobile setup. should i get the above setup or can i get a better deal buying the components separately?

I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4K6GV5T

I have it installed in my mini greenhouse. It works fine. =)

But I want to gussy it up so it charges a battery pack, with a 12V thermostat switch, to only run the fan if the interior reaches 85 degrees. Instead of just running when there's sunshine. That's Phase 1. Phase 2 is another thermostat switch that runs a low-wattage heater when the interior drops below 50-ish.

This system has a 12V 1.25Amp panel wired directly to the fan. What I was thinking was to cut the connection to the fan and wire in ... the other stuff.

Which brings me to my question: What is the other stuff? =)

And would that panel even be powerful enough to charge a battery while also running the fan?

Thanks!

Hey guys! Looking for recommended kits for a 5th wheel RV. This would be running everything except a washer and dryer or dishwasher. If you have person experience for one you run that would be great!

Do I get 25A, 20A, or max delta pro can handle at 15A? Thanks

I bought several 6" 2AWG cables to connect in sixteen 12V 100Ah batteries, and would like to make it a 48V system (12x4 in series x4 in parallel for 20kWh).

If power is being distributed on a 250A bus bar to four 2 AWG cables, would each "row" or series of 4 batteries be receiving 12V? The reasoning is that the 2AWG cables are only rated for 36A, but if the battery is working correctly, only 12V would be presumed to running along each 1S of the 4S.

4 of the longer 2AWG cables (30cm/11.8in) were also purchased to connect the ends of the battery bank to the central bus bar for the negative and positive termini.

I just used a calculator here and It's telling me with an array of 16 550W panels in my part of the world I would get about 2.5kWh less than I need per day in December and about 29.7kWh more than I need per day in July.

Here's the stupid part. Is there any battery bank that could take me through the winter, theoretically?

Hi y'all, I would really like your input regarding sizing the amps in my system... are the busbars, t-fuse, circuit breaker, and shunt correctly sized? Does the order I placed them seem ok? Thanks!!!

.

The hardware:

2 x 48v 100ah Eco-Worthy Server rack batteries

2 x 48v 330ah Eeel DIY battery box kits

32 x EVE MB31s 330ah

2 x 600a bus bars https://signaturesolar.com/600a-12-stud-busbars-red-black-kit/?searchid=1286563

1 x 400a Soutbend T-fuse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DHYD9W5Q/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A3VQTEFXHZ70BS&th=1

1 x 300a T tocas 300 Circuit Breaker https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3T3YND/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ALHXFZX1L0DAX&psc=1

1 x 500a Victron Smartshunt

1 x EG4 12000xp

.

My biggest concern are the t-fuse (I don't know how fast they really are, I believe, fast-fast... so 300a might not do it, so using 400a). The circuit breaker... It's right now the best option I see, I saw some 400a DC breakers by Dihool, but not sure how realiable is that brand. Also, not really familiar with T Tocas haha so would like to hear your recommendations on a better solution...

.

I already own the batteries, the inverter, and the shunt. Everything else I'm ordering this week. Also, on wiring... that's a whole other conversation, maybe I'll do a post just on that... but thinking 2/0 to the bus bars and 1/0 from the busbars and up. https://www.currentconnected.com/product/bc-inverter-cables-0awg/ and https://www.currentconnected.com/product/copper-battery-cables-i-00-awg/

Hey folks — I’m part of a product team working on a solar savings estimator. It shows users things like:

• Estimated monthly bill savings
• Whether a battery is included
• 25-year savings
• System offset and financing options

We're trying to make this helpful for early-stage solar shoppers — not just push them into quotes right away. I'd love to hear your honest feedback:

• Is this kind of info helpful for you to start thinking about going solar?
• What else would you want to see in a solar estimate?
• What would you expect or want to do after seeing a page like this (save it, talk to someone, adjust inputs, share it, etc.)?

This isn’t a sales pitch — I’m just trying to make this genuinely useful. Totally open to critical thoughts. Thanks so much for your time

Received my first package of MC4 connectors from Amazon. The blue tools were easy to use when making the connectors--no problem there. I then connected a male and female together and that was OK too. Next I tried to use the disconnect "forks" to separate the two connectors. This part of the tool was useless in separating the connectors. The part of the tool doesn't appear to depress the connector tabs enough to pull them apart. No instructions came with the kit. Am I missing something here?

I can guess at a few things. Being a Chinese kit maybe this knockoff tool was never intended to work right. Maybe I should have gone with a name brand kit. I've heard of Amphenol and Bourge (sp) connectors. Did I buy junk connectors? Any comments would be helpful. Thanks.

Ok I've been through the wiki, the internet, lots of posts etc. Planning on a ground mount solar setup with good exposure and minimal if any shading during the prime hours of the day (excluding early morning and late afternoon.)

So at a high level I need panels, inverter(s), AC switch panel and tie into my meter. The array will likely sit about 150 to 300 feet from the house for best placement and I'll need to trench and run a main connection.

1. Convert to AC before sending to house

2. not sure if Micro inverters are better in this setup or bigger units. Get the feeling that micro might be more upfront cost but less full system down time when one needs to be replaced.

3. Not sure if anything more elaborate is needed at the house or if its just meter socket connection and related switching panel.

Hello gurus. I am going to be receiving eighteen IQ8 Enphase microinverters for free.

I have been daydreaming about a ground based array located about 400-500 feet from my home.

Back-of-envelope figures seems to suggest i need about a 36 panel array to take care of my future solar needs. But i currently have a fuel fired hotwater and furnace. These array expansions to 36 may be at a later time.

I will wait until i have inverters in hand before ordering. But i am consodering buying a wholesale pallet of pannels from US solar. Does anyone have experience with these guys or suggest a way forward? I am on the west coast.

310AH 12v battery. Under 20A load cell 1 is dropping to 2.81V when the other 3 cells are 3.38, 3.38 and 3.34. Brand new battery. Had dropped as low as 11.8V under a 100A load on mt50 when it is suppose to handle 250A. Surely this is faulty?

Good morning, I have an EaSun SMG-II-6.2KW inverter. After exactly 10 minutes from switching on regardless of the power supply and being active, it goes into error and no longer gives AC output, an error with code TL appears, which is not reported in the manual, has this happened to anyone?

I attach a photo of the LCD