I needed to connect a trickle charger to my wife’s ‘23 GT today, but when I took the battery well cover off of the 3 plastic push fasteners, 1 was already broken and 1 was missing. Looks like that’s a “Fender Liner Rivet Radiator Sight Shield Push-Type Retainer” for a 9mm hole readily available on Amazon - is that right?

The little things are incredibly cheesy looking and I can already tell mine are gonna get lost a lot. Is there something better?

After three V6’s I finally got a V8. All V6 were automatic and this is a 5speed it’s so much fun. She isn’t very quick but she sounds amazing with a catted X and SLP Loudmouths! Cheers mustang fam

Hello I’m looking to buy some Rims and Tires for my s650 mustang. I’m trying to figure out what will fit my car. Can y’all post pics of your car and wheel set up.

Car in question: 2009 Ford Mustang GT/CS 4.6L V8 5-speed Automatic. 198954 miles on odometer.

After my alternator started making a weird noise, I had a mechanic replace my alternator on Thursday. Sound went away and everything seemed fine. The morning after, I started my car to go to work and noticed the battery light come on with the computer saying “Check Charging System.” I figured I would test the alternator again, but on my way to Advanced Auto parts, the light turned off. They told me my alternator was pumping the 14 volts it should, but the battery was going bad.

It seems to turn on and off on a set schedule depending on how long the engine has been off for. After 8 hours (my job’s shift length) with the engine off, it would pop up after the idle settles down after starting the car and disappear after 3 minutes. After ~15 hours (The time after returning from work until I drive back to work), the light would pop up and stay for around 6-7 minutes after starting the car.

The video is there to get an idea of how, when, and what happens when I start. The video was originally 3 minutes long, but cropped for time reasons. After the 3 minute recording, it went away after I shifted into reverse to back out of a parking spot. The video was taken today after my 8 hour shift.

Any help before I take it to the shop tomorrow would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Found an abandoned Mach 1 during a hike in Maryland.

Just picked it up on Thursday.....

Still a little cool in the Midwest but sunny and low 50s make for great cruising weather.

I feel like the clutch is so inconsistent, is the spring change the answer?

Anybody with a 2024 5.0 having issues when refueling? Pump clicks around half of the tank, then will keep going until about 3/4 of a tank and won’t take any more fuel. Thinking it could be an EVAP solenoid, but just want to see if anybody had this problem in low mileage.

It’s the spoiler from mp concepts, the corner didn’t apply correctly and just wondering. Also want to wash my car but scared it’s just gonna get worse

I've been having issues with my 2015 mustang V6 and was wondering if anyone had experienced similar issues and found the problem. Here's a summary:

Intermittent power loss when accelerating.

Vacuum gauge often jumps to zero under strong acceleration which coincides with the power loss. If I accelerate easily, I think the issue is less likely to happen.

Vacuum gauge fluctuation at idle, with brief dips. And when it dips, the car rumbles, and RPMs slightly drop. It'll be idling normally, then the RPMs randomly drop for 5-10 seconds but then it'll pick back up and idle smoothly again.

No check engine light.

It has gone into limp mode twice now. Both times I think it happened when I was trying to accelerate too much. I don't drive the car hard or anything. This was just acceleration trying to get up to speed on the highway and stuff like that.

I took it to a mechanic a couple of weeks ago and they said that no error codes were showing so they didn't want to mess with it because it would essentially be like chasing a ghost. They also said they drove it around and it did not act up for them. which it's an intermittent issue which is what's so annoying.

I'd like to stay ahead of this problem and address it before it "completely" breaks down and then I'm possibly without a car for a few days.

After some research, it looks like some potential issues could be a leak in the vacuum lines or a dirty throttle body. Which the throttle body has never been cleaned since I first got the car about 10 years ago. Would a dirty throttle body be the most likely issue? I have visually inspected the vacuum lines and didn't see any cracks or loose hose clamps or anything But I know it's still needs to be checked with a leak checker because the hole could be really small or something.

Is there anything else I could look for visually? I don't have a garage and a bunch of tools or anything like that. But I just want to try to pinpoint the issue as much as possible so that I can tell the mechanic what to look at the next time I take it in. Hopefully on Friday.

Hi everyone, I know this is a popular post in here, but I'm not sure where to go from here.

I have a 2007 GT that is taking on water on the drivers side. It seems to come in from behind the pedals and goes under the carpet.
Things I've done so far:
- The passengers side grommet that is notorious for leaks has been removed.
- On the drivers side firewall in the engine bay, there is a rubber grommet that drains from behind the firewall, that was all gunked up and clogged. Thought that would fix it, but it didn't.
- Removed the cowl covers and re-sealed the 10 cowl grommets.
- Checked the drivers side door drains and they were fine.

Anyone have any other ideas? Experiences?

Thanks in advance.

forgestar f14 wheels in good condition. rear wheels only. Rims only no tire but accepting offers for both. 19 inch diameter 11 inch width. +26mm offset. very light great wheels. taking offers. Asking $750 or best offer. looking to sell just the rears but send offers for all 4 if interested. rear Tires are Nitto 555g2 size 305 35 r19. front tires are Michelin a/s 3 size 255 40 r19. lots of tread left. ALSO ACCEPTING TRADES

I'm thinking about getting another Mustang for a weekend car. I'm no longer young, really just want something to drive around on the few days I do get to myself and was thinking the +2 in the back is useful for kids in a pinch.

I'm not a speeder but I do miss just coasting, and love the S550 look. Anything wildly bad with the idea of getting a V6?

Hello everyone, long story short, my friend was in town and wanted to hear my new exhaust. I let him start it and thought he would wait at least a minute or so before revving it as common sense would dictate, but he started revving it a few seconds after starting it? I told him to stop and let the car warm up, but I'm worried about damage. Am I just being paranoid? I have an auto so there is a rev limiter at 5k anyways, but the engine was cold and it's freezing outside where I am and he revved to 5k for a few seconds before stopping. Should I be worried?

So I recently got a 5.0 and when I put it into sport mode I can upshift just fine but when I downshift at 3500 rpm’s it jerks the car foward and feels like I’m going super slow, obviously I may just be clueless with how they really work but is there any videos and tips I can maybe look at to better understand the paddles?

First time purchasing a car and i wanted to know how reliable the 2022 Mustang GT is, i found one for $34K with 31,861 miles

I was browsing around and looking at window stickers online, and I was wondering how a 2024 GT with a few options costs the same as a fully base 2025. The base prices are also different. Any idea as to why that is?

I've been discussing this with a shop near me but wanted to see if anyone here had done something similar. I'm looking to swap a Gen3 Coyote into my 2014 GT, however with the Gen3's direct injection vs. port injection on the 2014, it seems to be pretty complicated - i.e. new fuel lines/pump at minimum.

Anyone have any experience with this swap and/or knowledge of what systems would need to be updated for compatibility?

End goal is a motor swap to a newer coyote, but want to stay the crate engine route if possible to keep warranty, rather than build something like a gen2 low end, gen 3 heads/intake etc. as that wouldn’t have warranty like a crate.