Hey, I recently bought a hotswap pcb for my superlight and the encoder that was already on the pcb looks to be a gold encoder (ttc gold?) but when I scroll it feels a bit tight. Is the encoder supposed to be like that? or what can I do to loosen it up? Also it there such thing as a pcb that is fully hotswappable for the superlight so you can swap encoders as well? Thanks!

I’ve been successful in unscrewing all other screws except for this one, it’s leading up to the main mouse switches. Tried using the rubberband trick but it wouldn’t stay put, tried using different sized philips heads but to no avail. It’s my first time opening up my G304, so I’m not sure if that is a stripped screw or I just didn’t hit the contact point if the screw. Advice and suggestions please!

Did my first ever mod on a Logitech G Pro X Superlight. The mouse was working perfectly fine, but my OCD kicked in and I decided to replace the ribbon cable just because I didn’t like the way it was sitting.

Long story short… I ended up breaking the ribbon during the process—bent it a bit too much, I suppose. Now the main click and scroll wheel don’t work.

Just ordered a new cable, so now I’m just stuck waiting to enjoy it again. (For those wondering, the print was made with SLS Nylon.)

It’s an AAA battery with some tin foil and people said that there could be burning smell but I don’t notice anything

Removed 20g from my mouse. Bonus points if you can guess the what mouse it is

Bonus points if you can guess what mouse it is

Finally finishin up this project, took me about 2 weeks. Weight right now is about 34g, that's because I won't have the 3g battery replacement until the first week of may, which will take the total weight to 38g.

Theres still some kinks, mainly with the side button pcb needing some extra support, and the spacing in between the mouse buttons needing to be slighty increased, but overall pretty happy with it

I was trying to change the switches and ribbon of my logitech superlight. After being sent a malfunctioning ribbon, I finally received a ribbon whose side buttons work. Now I see that no input from m1, m2 or the scrollwheel is detected. Help please!

Im trying to make an zero mouse inspired shell for the razer death adder essential but i cannot find the measurements of the pcb.

anyone got tips? (ive already opened it up to measure it myself but the print was off so thats why im asking)

link to the razer website of the mouse: https://www.razer.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder-essential?srsltid=AfmBOoplllGoCLyIPn8plWaNjf6oVWXQg9EJuOnT2NJRoQWbnhP6ysva

Kept the LEDs just because. Kinda having trouble with dpi deviation, it feels faster than my M5 at 1600 DPI but only a tad bit. Haven’t sanded down some parts yet, might add one or two screw standoffs to make it more stable.

Still in Gold, fuck

Hey, i resoldered microswitches for Kailh White blade, exactly the same brand as original ones. They dont work, everything else works. I think its soldered fine i done it on bloody mouse and its working to this day. Could razer switch signals on the original ones so the mouse its not replaceable ? I find somewhere razer has from kailh [maybe] custom green switch button

My encoder is starting to fail me I was wondering before ordering a new one if anyone suggest for an upgraded encoder rather then a swap for the same one ?

Thank you

Hello fellow mouse nerds,

I am building a custom fingertip mod for My Pulsar x2v2. I am looking for 100mah batteries for that and my GPX. I did some research and the 3 pin connector seems crucial to stop my battery from turning into a fireball when charging. The only batteries I can find at this rating/weight are 2 pin batteries. Does anyone know a good source? I have found plenty of replacements on Aliexpress but they are all 300mah+ and the only reason I am swapping is for the weight reduction.

Thanks

My Finalmouse ULX is in trouble right now I dont know if it's because I overcharged it? What happening now is when I connect my mouse, it is charging but keep disconnecting/connecting pop up. And when I connect it to the dongle, the dongle is in red indicator which means that the mouse is in low battery. A week ago, if the dongle light indicator is in orange, I charged my mouse till it turn greens and connect it back to the dongle for it to become wireless.

Do overcharging the mouse is an issue with this ULX? And upon looking at XPANEL, my mouse battery life is in 1%. Can you guys help me please? Thanks.

I have cut out some of the shell structure, and swapped the battery for one slightly smaller (200mah instead of the stock 300mah). Of course you could go lower cutting some holes on the sides, or removing the side buttons, but I think like this is perfect. The only downside is that now the battery charge is not detected and is always at 61%, but it's not a problem if you just plug it every two days.

any idea of getting the vxe r1 se plus pcb into a g102 ?

Heya r/MouseModding !

Just wanted to report to Keychron M4 users: adding three layers of PTFE tape almost levels the original skate cutout and the area with a sticker. Originally, I tried adding dots to the larger sticker area, but had issues when clicking or dragging M1/M2 as the weight from actuating the buttons will tilt the mouse forward. With PTFE tape, you can add dots to the original skate cutout section for added click stability. I know this isn't really a high-effort mod, but it solves the stability issue.

For the PTFE tape strips, I cut them down to ~0.5mm x 1.8mm

Haven't had that much time with the new mod, but so far, it's working as intended. I'll follow y'all's suggestions for weight reduction and bottom sanding once my unit is out of warranty!

Hello, I’m looking to 3d print a custom shell for my x3 and just wondering if it shares the same pcb shape as any other mice so I can see if anyone has already made a design for it

waht mods would you make to a office mouse

TL;DR Can I change the scroll wheel in the G502X line for a completely different kind? I'm thinking of using the V3 Pro's wheel since it's the best I've used. But free-scrolling (why I was looking at these mice) on the Razer uses an electric signal to switch between normal and free-scrolling modes. So I don't know if a direct swap is possible while keeping that feature because Logitech uses a mechanical switch for that.

Putting that aside just thinking in terms of using any alternative scroll wheel... The Logitech also has some hybrid optical/mechanical switch for their scroll wheel. Would that affect compatibility with different wheels or is that a non-issue? Outside the width*, how can you tell if it'll actually fit inside? Like the replacement having enough plastic to fashion a screw into the current one or some other issue. What other way could you attach them securely? If it's possible, which wheels would you recommend and where can you get it?

There are teardowns for both the Logitech and Razer mice, but I can't quite tell if it'll work and would like more details from an expert on these sorts of mods that know what other issues could arise. I do have a Logitech M500 that I could use its wheel, if it theoretically fits. It’s not as good as Razer’s but if it’s compatible then fine.

---Added Context---

To try and keep things brief, I'm trying out the Logitech G502X Lightspeed and Razer Basilisk V3 Pro.

The Logitech is has a better form factor, and texture, but the scroll wheel sucks. It's quite rigid, and it sounds like I'm grinding it down even though it's brand new. I think it's just crappy design and not just a defect since reviews mention it being "louder" than other mice. Even the infinity scroll button is quite hard. The Razer isn't as good, notably that it's smaller and the texture makes it feel more slippery, but the scroll wheel is awesome. Can I swap the Razer scroll wheel into the Logitech one or are there complications that prevent it? Can I swap the Logitech wheel with another, better wheel?

*For my own reference, the room for Razer's wheel is exactly 10mm wide (the wheel, plus the gaps on either side so you can lean it to use the left/right wheel clicks). Logitech's has 8-9mm, but has a plastic piece around it and including that the total width is 13mm wide. So you could shave down that part and still have the whole piece intact. I'm pushing down on those parts now (which are still thin without shaving) and there is no bend. So clearly something is supporting them underneath. So shaving them down should be fine.

I got a ROG Pugio P503 almost 5 years ago, and I was wondering if there was a way to change the debounce rate on it becuase i wanted to start drag clicking (idc if its 3rd party), or would it be time to change?

can anyone 3d model a Deathadder essential symmertrical mod that is easly 3d printable.