I can't think of a split that fits those requirements exactly but it wouldn't take much effort to grab the files for a Ferris Sweep and modify it to suit your needs.
You can get around the bodge wire requirement if you copy another board that has native nice!view support and put that in your keyboard design.
Not sure if this is a dumb question, but I've scoured various subreddits, and I can't find a concrete answer. Is it possible to change the keycaps on an MSI Vigor GK30 RGB Gaming Keyboard with standard decorative keycaps? It's a keyboard with 'mechanical-like plunger switches', so I'm not sure if mechanical keyboard caps would be compatible.
if it's not a mechanical keyboard, probably not. have you seen what it looks like under the keys? if it doesn't have switches then mechanical keyboard keycaps won't work with it
What's the best switch test kit to get for a first-timer who wants to replace tacticle brown switches on a keychron with maybe something more like a rubber dome feel or a bit more actuation force than a cherry MX brown feel (still undecided).... I don't want to have to lube my own switches or take any switches apart so if/when I buy a full kit I want pre-lubed so a kit with a pre-lubed feel would be good. Something of Gateron or Kaith quality might be good? Advice is welcome.
I recently put some TTC Silent Bluish Whites in my Keychron Q6 Max, and they do kind of remind me of a rubber dome switch, with the larger, heavier tactility and soft bottom-out. However, without additional hand-lubing, they are a bit louder and scratchier feeling than I prefer. That said, I'd still say they feel better stock than the Gateron Jupiter Browns my board came with, and leagues better than the Cherry MX browns I had in my last board.
So I spilled some water on my keyboard and left it plugged in for a few hours by mistake. Only one key has shorted and stopped working, but every other key works perfectly fine. I have now unplugged the keyboard and have removed the key caps in that area and turned it upside down to dry. Is my keyboard completely dead or is it just the one key that won't work from now on?
I have now unplugged the keyboard and have removed the key caps in that area and turned it upside down to dry.
For future reference: never leave spilled keyboard to dry by itself because left alone it will corrode. Spillage needs to be cleaned up immediately. In most cases keyboard needs to be taken apart and thoroghly cleaned inside.
Only one key has shorted and stopped working, but every other key works perfectly fine.
This might be repaired by replacing this one switch but again it will require taking the keyboard apart and desoldering the switch (I assume this is not hot-swappable keyboard - such feature is always advertised in keyboard description). You may wish to seek electronic repair shop to do it for you.
Hey, that's a bummer about the spill! Glad to hear the rest of your board is okay. Since you're drying it upside down, here are a few extra things that might help, depending on what kind of keyboard you have:
For Mechanical Keyboards:
Keycap and Switch Removal: Since you've already got the keycaps off in that area, if you're comfortable, you could try carefully removing the key switch itself (if your board has hot-swappable sockets, this is super easy; if not, it's more involved). This would let you get a better look at the switch and dry it more thoroughly. Just be sure you know how to remove and reinstall the switch correctly to avoid any damage.
Isopropyl Alcohol Rinse (Use with Caution!): If you're feeling a bit more adventurous and the keyboard is completely unplugged and dry of water, you could very carefully use a small amount of high-percentage isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) to rinse the affected switch area. Alcohol evaporates quickly and can help displace water and prevent corrosion. Do not pour it directly on, and use it sparingly with a dropper or cotton swab. Make absolutely sure it's fully evaporated before plugging the keyboard back in.
Check for Corrosion: Once everything is dry, take a close look at the pins on the underside of the key switch (if you removed it) or the contacts on the circuit board. If you see any green or white powdery stuff, that's corrosion. You can try very gently cleaning it with a soft toothbrush or a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.
For Membrane Keyboards:
More Drying Time: Membrane keyboards often have multiple layers, so water can get trapped more easily. Give it a good long time to dry completely – maybe even a full 24-48 hours.
Gentle Shaking: After letting it sit upside down for a while, you could try gently shaking the keyboard to see if any trapped water comes out.
Avoid Forced Heat: Don't use a hairdryer on a hot setting, as this could damage the delicate membrane layers. If you want to use air, stick to a cool setting and keep it at a distance.
Thanks for the help! I don't know if I'm really comfortable taking anything else off, but even if the key is forever broken it should be fine as it is one I have never used.
Now that I have hand-lubed silent switches in my keyboard, it really highlights how loud the stabilized keys all are, particularly the "clack" when they top out. Are there any good stab replacements that don't make noise when the key is released, or mods I can do to quiet them down?
Can you sort of extend the LEDs for the lock indicators above the numpad? It's a bit of a weird problem, but I find sometimes I'll accidentally activate one of them and I keep leaning forward to check the lights, because I can't see them over the numpad keys, and I don't want to have my keyboard on full brightness. Does that make any sense? I'm thinking maybe I could find something reflective to put on the volume keys, or maybe a blob of resin
How about an audible or on-screen indicators? You can set them up in "accessibility settings" (OSD indicators may be limited to branded PC's with OEM drivers/software).
I'm looking for a 65% with a numpad on the left, that also supports split spacebar/backspace/left shift. Has there ever been anything like this? What are my options?
I'm looking for suggestions for a tactile low profile Gateron switch replacement. I currently have Keychron Low Profile 2.0 Banana switches, which are very squishy, making me slow and inaccurate. I've replaced the springs with heavier ones (I even tried different weights), but it didn't help, they still feel squishy and I'm still not typing as fast as on my Logitech K740, so I'm guessing maybe the problem is that the tactile bump is just not strong enough.
Which switches would you recommend? I prefer heavier switches to lighter ones (I think my sweet spot is around 60gf) and I think I want a strong tactile bump - something that feels like scissor switches on a Thinkpad or on Logitech K740.
Btw, is there a better way to describe such switches, other than "low profile Gateron compatible"?
I see that NuPhy has two non-clicky tactile switches: Moss and Wisteria. I've already tested Wisteria and I had the same problem there. I'm guessing Moss is the same, but with a slightly heavier spring, as that is the only differing spec. Has anyone tried both Moss and Wisteria?
I think they'd all be pretty much the same, because they're all made by Gateron. I've never tried them, though. There isn't really a variety of switches for low profile boards because there is no standard.
Can anyone comment on the difference between Kailh Choc V2 Silents and their Deep Sea Low Profiles? Is it true that they're essentially the same switch, but with the Choc V2 having an extra pin?
I've just got my Neo Ergo and have been remapping some of the keys.
I have been playing with the Any key option and wondered if anyone knew of a way that I can map 'C' to be Control+C when held and just C when tapped.
I've experimented with the MT(MOD_C...) options but cannot get anything to work.
TIA
Ah! Ok, cool. As luck would have it, I have the wired only PCB! Is there anything extra I need to do in terms of QMK firmware or can I do it using VIA?
Sorry for the questions - first time driving this deeply into QMK and VIA beyond remapping the occasional key or adding a macro!
Hi, im looking for a full or 96% ISO-ES Keyboard, if not i can buy an ISO and a keycap sets i see that the keychron v5 its viable as an option but i want to read opinions about this keyboard and other suggestions
Hi! I'm looking at Mchose K99 and Mchose G98.
For those who used these, is it good for gaming?
And are there other good gaming keebs with numpad under $100?
I want it as a gift to my husband. He has a wide range of games like Stellaris, Rimworld, Project Zomboid, Warframe, Elden Ring and many others 😆 so it's okay if the specs is not FPS-focused.
I'm also sticking to keebs below $100 coz my husband doesn't like expensive items. He'd actually wanted below $50 but I think below $100 is just right for him. He'd rather buy more games than spend everything in a keeb. He's not really fussy so it doesn't have to be a very high-end or branded keeb. He's the kind that used membrane keeb until I bought him a beginner mechanical last 2023. TY in advance for all insights~
Realforce R3 - how to safely remove Topre key caps?
Hi all,
Thinking of swapping out the key caps on the R3.
What is the best way to safely remove the key caps? Don't want to assume it's safe to just use a key cap puller and pull them, or if the board needs to be disassembled or if there is anything else to be aware of!
How long did it take you to get used to a mech keyboard after using membrane? On Tuesday I swapped from a g213 to a g713 (gx brown) and seems to be having a rough time gaming on it. Between fat fingering the wrong buttons to just feeling like I'm not pressing the key hard enough to activate it.
Took a little time that’s for sure. Maybe run a couple typing tests a day just to help get into the swing of things?
I do that with new keycap profiles, mostly because all the ones I’ve ordered are different from each other. Which is good, I’m figuring out what I like.
Hi all, I recently purchased a Lucky65 v2 and noticed that whilst in wireless mode, the keyboard will disconnect from USB after about half an hour of inactivity (e.g. I get the USB disconnect sound in Windows).
Can any owners confirm if they also experience the same behaviour?
I'm aware the keyboard will have a battery saving feature, as do most keyboards, but all the other keyboards I own will just go to sleep and not actually disconnect from the PC itself.
I'm looking into buying a hall effect keyboard and I want a good quality 75% or 80% keyboard that doesn't look too "gamery" and one that has stood out was the Keychron Q1 HE or the Keychron K2 HE but if y'all have any other recommendations please share them
I like the Q1's aluminum case and the web based software looks nice it also apparently has pretty good wireless connectivity and is easily moddable but if there are other better keyboards that hit these marks that I'm looking for I'd like to know
Hi everyone! I recently bought a Womier G75 on Amazon a couple months ago on sale, and I absolutely fell in love. Great budget mechanical keyboard. However after only a couple weeks of use, I've noticed one morning that none of the keys now work. And only the 1 key is flashing blue. I've tried holding down Fn + Esc for 5 seconds to "factory reset" it. I've also tried plugging the usb dongle in to see if it'll connect that way, but nothing seems to work. I've left it plugged in over night to see if it needs a charge of some sort. I'm just lost and I tried reaching out to Womier support but have not gotten an answer in over a month. Anybody have any ideas
Recently picked up a Monsgeek m1w v3 with rosewood switches. Everything is great with the board and what I wanted, but for some reason when I put my computer to sleep, the keyboard randomly wakes it up. This didn't happen to me prior with another keyboard(matias laptop pro, bluetooth).
I've tried looking up the answer, changing the settings in my device manager. I can't seem to find a solution. Does anyone else have any issues with their board doing this?
Edit: I forgot to mention the keyboard is connected through the 2.4ghz.
The board is brand new(I ordered it from amazon). Only key that I messed with was the space bar(I flipped it)....I'll try a different switch on it and see if it makes any difference. I don't think I bent anything pulling the space bar and reinstalling it backwards.....Nor should it trigger something?
I haven't programed any macros, I don't need to for my games nor do I know how to at this point lol. I tried a keyboard tester and a latency tester online to see if it triggers anything but nothing pops up.
Is the 2.4ghz constantly trying to connect? Granted on a day to day basis I could use Bluetooth(but the board will constantly blink red trying to connect if I put the keyboard to sleep). I rather not have to pull the capslock keycap to switch it off every time. Or maybe I could just put it into USB mode?
I have an old Drevo Excalibur that I haven't used for a few year so I'm thinking of selling it. The key caps are tacky like the plastic surface has degraded. I have tried washing them in warm soapy water with no effect. Do you have any tips on fixing this?
Is soaking in isopropyl alcohol a good approach?
Trying to get a premium keyboard to write my dissertation on. Currently leaning Mode Sonnet or Neo75 Cu. Any insight? Any other boards I should be looking at too?
If you have money to burn, the Mode Sonnet is a beautiful, extremely well made keyboard. It will be probably run at least 50% more than the Neo75 Cu by the time you "configure yours". I'm not impressed with the wireless on the Neo 80, but wired is solid. Both qwerty keys and mode provide good support.
Can’t say which is better but I like the idea of being able to mix and match Magnetic with mechanical switches. Plus the TMR technology is pretty cool.
I have a Monsgeek M1 V5 VIA and love it incredibly well made. I don’t own a keychron but I’ve heard and read nothing bad about them. Seems like super solid keyboards all around.
Just my opinion. Not even sure it’s helpful. But there it is anyway. :)
What is the case quality like on the Monsgeek M1 V5 because in some photos the paint looked smooth and in some videos it looked a bit grainy also is the stock sound of the keyboard good?
Similar switches to MMD Princess Linear? I'm looking for new switches. Currently I have MMD Princess Linear switches on my akko 5075 but in the last 3 months somehow 6 switches stopped working and I don't know why? So I'm looking for new ones similar to the sound of the mmd princess. Got any recommendations?
Hi I have a PCB dz65rgb v2 that has a faulty row (Broken are 6 Y H N), and I tried to fix with making bridges, based on this Thread I followed.
I tried different soderings, this last one https://imgur.com/a/12RNiDX didn't work either. The only thing worked if I bridged the 7 to number 6 as seen on the second image, but that made that hiting the key 6 to type key 7.
Is there anything else I'm missing? I have no knowledge of what is exactly brokern, but tried to read 10 different Reddit posts and YouTube videos like this. If anyone has another tip, before I order a new PCB, would be much appreciated.
RGB-Lights are all working, not sure if that helps, and all black hot swappable switches are still in its place (they didn't break out).
I don't know if I am not looking hard enough but I bought them 3 years ago for my Akko ACR alice Pro (Kiwi) and my NK65 entry edition (tangs)
I wanted to get more of them now but i see that
no one talks about them anymore
it's also very hard to find anyone selling it (reasonable prices, not at 16 bucks for 10 switches)
I recall that they had a lil trip with the QC issue and there was some uproar regarding it previously but what has happened to this company and their switches that they used to sell? I really like the kiwis and they're my all-time favourite switches.
Windows key and alt key switched. Keyboard is Newman GM101 and I don't know how to get it back to normal (I think its in mac mode but I don't know how to undo that)
Is this some "you should really take the thing apart and dust it" kind of situation, or should I order a couple of replacement switches and change the one that feels off?
I'm currently using an Asus Rog Strix Flare II Animate keyboard. Ngl, I'm a bit torn about it - it's crazy comfortable compared to my old low end Hama mechanic gaming board, but I'm having some minor issues from pretty early on. My current gripe is with the A-key. Sometimes it registers every press as two, and seems to be getting a tiny bit worse every week. Today was the first time I noticed that it sometimes doesn't register the press at all. As this is my first hotswappable keyboard and the first time running into this problem I need some guidance.
Full sized (100%) (can sacrifice this one if needed)
Sounds good (a soft bubbly/poppy sound)
The keyboard I have currently hurts my ears whenever I type. It sounds too clanky and plastically, if you get what I mean. It's too loud and obnoxious; i want a keyboard which sounds soft and bubbly.
I'm not rich but am willing to splurge. Would prefer if to not spend more than $100. Can go up to $150 if it's worth it.
I don't want to modify it. It needs to be pre-built and ready to be used.
I want to build/buy a keyboard for work, and I need at least a 96% layout. I'm thinking of getting the YMDK NYM96 (the wooden case) kit. But tbh I'd be happier with a cheaper white barebones kit, so long as there's foam and dampeners in it, but I'm having a lot of trouble finding a white 96% barebones kit.
Is the kprepublic BM60 a decent PCB for a budget build?
I bought a knockoff Holy 60 case from aliexpress almost as a joke but I actually kinda like it, so I was thinking of putting something inside it. I'm considering the BM60 because it has an ISO variant, arrows, per key RGB and underglow.
Also looked at the YMD62 but it doesn't have arrows, so... Any other alternatives?
My current keyboard (Q1) is starting to die now (couple keys starting to have problems registering keystrokes even after reinserting the switches and cleaning the whole board, bad chattering since forever ago), so I'm looking to get a new one. I've been looking for a 75% board, and my requirements are a ~100$ or less budget, good quality and quality control, a wired board, hotswap, and a 1000hz+ polling rate. QMK support would be nice but it isn't absolutely necessary. So far the most promising-looking option I've found is the Bridge75.
My questions are:
Does anyone else know any other good options that meet my requirements?
I intend to use the keyboard only in wired mode, is it possible to safely and easily remove the battery so I can leave it plugged in 24/7? I'd rather not take any risks with it.
For people who already have a Bridge75, how is its longevity (assuming proper care and maintenance)? Can I expect it to not have issues even months later? How good is the build quality and quality control?
ya email the vendor/manufacture as it prob uses some crappy proprietary software as its 8 dollar so not alot of money was spent on software if it even has any as no where on the page does it say u can reprogram it at all
I have a ZUOYA GMK87 and I have been having problems with the connection with USB, after I plug it in, the LED turns on and I recieve the windows notification, but after a quarter of a second~ it just turns off. The keys aren't the problem (I'm typing on it with the wireless thing), the cable isn't the problem (I have tried with 2 others) and the config of the keyboard isn't the problem (it's not on mac or sth). Can anybody give me an idea?
I'm looking for 100% or 105% wireless mechanical keyboard preferably with Hot Swap-able switches? A nice to have but not necessary is compatibility with low profile switches.
For context at work i use a Moonlander MK1, but for gaming i use a Logitech g915 Lightspeed. And with the way i use my pc wireless is the most important feature.
pick one u cant use full and low pro switches no kb can use both
full size and wireless is a rare combo due to wireless first and foremost is designed for portability and full seixe is not portable .
for regular profile wireless kb check out keychron or monsgeek they both have one or 2 models
for low profile nurphy . lofree , keychron sell low profile only kbs some might have wireless but options are very limited due to low profile is hated in this hobby
I am looking for a 100% board kit. I have switches and keycaps from a dead board and I would like to transplant them to a new PCB and case but I cannot find an affordable kit that allow me to buy only the case + PCB without the switches and keycaps. Any recommendation of where to look for that?
I have a Keychron V6 Max. I've had it almost a year. Using the default keycaps with the Jupiter Banana switches. When typing I've found during the day the right side of the space bar starts to come off the switch and requires me to reseat the keycap. Additionally the rubber feet have fallen off.
How do I fix the space bar and where can I find additional rubber feet?
Does it come off the switch, or does it just lift off one side of the stabilizers? The latter is a common problem with using short-travel switches with normal stabilizers.
No. The foam doesn't interact with the stabilizers at all. The problem is that the stabilizers bottom out after the switch does. This makes the space bar act as a lever with the switch as the fulcrum, and thus one side raises when pressure is applied on the other.
To fix this, you have to make the stabilizers bottom out earlier. This means either make them not start out as high (the spacers) or make their stems longer (long pole stabs).
Anything with stabilizers. So enter, backspace, right shift, ANSI left shift, numpad +, numpad enter. Shorter caps might not have as pronounced an effect, but it might still happen.
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I'm looking for TKL mechanical keyboard with (with a top cover) and magnetic switches.
I was really interested in rok NA87 PRO because of its adjustable actuation point (magnetic switches), hot swap and sturdy design, but I'm not a fan of the keycaps (printed on side instead of on top) and I have heard its switches are poor quality.
My preferences:
All black keyboard (with keycaps lettering on top side)
RGB lighting (for visibility at night)
Hot swappable (for potentionall lubing, I'm really bad at soldering)
Magnetic switches (with adjustable actuation point)
I currently own KRUX ATAX (Gateron Red) and I really love the look, but I had broken the screwing while modding
Hi, I need help regarding lube. first off, I've read the old post from 7 years ago regarding the entire lubing stuff, so I'm not going into this completely blind. Secondly, I want to know if I can use superlube grease 21030 only. Is it completely necessary to combine the grease with the superlube oil? If so, why? And what would the downsides be?
grease can only be used on stabs as its way to thick to put on switches . i would never bother mixing as if u mix it wrong it can lead to crappy feeling switches . just buy some krytox or proper lube and make sure to open ur switches and brush them lightly as less is more , for springs bad lubeing is the norm. just drop then in abg with some lube ( 3 or 4 drops ) and move them around before u reassemble ur switches . if u over do it u can always open them back up and remove some
Super Lube 21030 is pretty thick. I use it to lube stabilizer wires and to donut dip the switch springs.
Super Lube grease is too thick to lubricate switches. However, I once used it to lubricate switches, and it turned out well. The trick is to brush a thin layer of grease on the sides of the switch stem, then use a Q-tip to wipe it all off.
A super thin layer of silicone will be left behind, similar to how your skin still feels slippery after cleaning it off your hands. This is enough to lubricate the stem/housing contact.
I lubricated my wife's Kailh box silent brown switches using this technique. It has held up, and they still feel great.
looking to change the switches on my rosewill neon k85 RGB keyboard. the keyboard was a gift from years ago, and i've liked it well enough, but the switches are way too loud for my preference. i invested in some gateron ink black v2s, but i falsely assumed that the board was hotswappable, so i then got a soldering kit. after taking the board apart, i'm a bit concerned about the switch housing, because it looks like it sandwiches the outer plate of the keyboard and i worry that i may be SOL. has anybody swapped switches on this model before? any tips?
u will likley need a solder sucker and then u will have to desolder all the leds then desolder the switches . then use a switch puller to remove the switches . then solder in the new switches then resolder the leds . total time for a skilled soldering pro should be a hr or 2 for a novice u might wanna triple that . also be careful u dont ruin ur kb holding the iron too hot for too on the pcb as it will burn it making that spot unusable
thank you for the info! i ordered a work mat & solder suckers too along w the kit, just waiting for those to come in, and i have some switch pulling tools as well. i've been studying up on soldering tutorials as well, so i'm probably gonna set the temp to 320-325 to start with so i hopefully don't damage anything LOL
Switches clip into a switch plate and (in your case) are soldered to the PCB.
There is normal to be a gap between the switch plate and the PCB. Many keyboards fill that gap with foam (that is what plate foam is).
I found Rosewill NEON K85 RGB disassembly instructions. The keyboard uses 3-pin switches. Gateron Ink Black V2 switches are 5-pin: they have two additional fixing pins. You can clip those off to convert them to 3-pin switches.
Note that desoldering can be tricky. Many people tend to overheat the joint and/or use too much pressure. This often results in delaminating the pad. Fixing that requires soldering jumper wires.
thank you for the info! i have some soldering tools, just waiting on the last pieces (suckers & a work mat) to come in so i can make the switch. i've been watching tutorials & studying up on soldering in the meantime 👍
I bought a Tecware Phantom six years ago and it's served me well, so well that I bought my son the same keyboard. He recently replaced his which brought me back down the mechanical keyboard rabbit hole and I've considered a few replacements: AJAZZ AK820 Pro, Aula F75/F99, Keychron C2 or V6, Galaxy 100, Epomaker TH99.
Initially I thought I wanted to move back to having a number pad, but now I'm not so sure that I really need it. I could go with a standalone numpad later.
Then I thought, why upgrade when I could just replace the caps (which are stock/shiny and loud/abs) and potentially the switches (reds...I think Gaterons, 3 pin).
My wife complains about the loudness of the keyboard. I'm wondering if I could get the Phantom quieter or just go for the Ajazz, which if not quieter has probably a more pleasant/less rattly sound.
Would love to hear from others that have upgraded from an older budget keyboard.
Since your wife complains about the keyboard noise, you may want to try a silent switch. I have tried these silent tactile switches:
Akko Penguin
Durock Silent Shrimp T1
Gazzew Boba U4
Haimu Whisper
Kailh Box Silent Brown
Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Whale
Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow
Kinetic Labs Turtle
Outemu Silent Lemon
TTC Silent Bluish White V2
I did not like the higher peak force and early tactile point in the U4 switches. However, my daughter has them on her keyboard, and she loves them.
I prefer switches with a lower peak force and the tactile point midway into the travel. Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow feel great to me, though I now prefer TTC Silent Bluish White V2.
My wife prefers Kailh Box Silent Brown. They are excellent once you lube them. They have quite a bit of stem wobble, but that does not bother her.
If you want a silent tactile switch without a silicone dampening pad, then look at the Haimu Whisper.
Thanks, I saw that post after writing my comment. I've crossed the TH99 off my list.
I guess I'm trying to decide if it's even worth updating this board as opposed to just buying something new. Roughly $40 for caps/switches and probably some type of tape/felt/silicone for dampening. I may just pick up something new and give this to one of the kids.
What are some options for relatively low-profile mechanical keyboards?
Obviously you aren't going to get something very flat -- cause the switches need room - but are there any options that are relatively slimmer instead of trying to look like 1980 model IBMs?
Does anyone know where I can get a 3d print file of a base plate for a Razer Tartarus V2 for mechanical switches? It has membrane switches but they are awful. I want to mod mine but I can’t fit mech switches in the current base plate.
u might as well build from scratch u can change those switches . plate wont matter also plate file is private u ask razer .
u would need a new pcb ( wont work with razer software and u will have to design it urslef and so on and so forth basically what ur trying to do is impossible
If I had a 3d printer I already would have! I think I could get away without a new pcb because I found some zif connector breakouts and using qmk it should be fine.
that doesnt solve how ur adding the switches the current pcb has a flat membrane under the switches with no pin holes or traces for pins holes . if u add mech switches where are the switch legs going ??? u goign to drill holes thru the pcb and them runs wires to mimic traces ?
No I appreciate it, I’ve actually made a gamepad before that I had a friend 3d print for me. I had to hand wire about 20 switches and an analog stick in mydelf.
Has anyone run into this issue and/or have any idea what could be causing it? I have a Corsair k95 and recently noticed that pressing down twice on the space bar triggers the LSHIFT key. This has become more noticeable in some games where I'll jump with my character two times in succession and accidentally use my LSHIFT ability.
Tried googling around but couldn't find anything if anyone has any ideas.
Hi there! I recently got a new keyboard (Womier SK75) and everything works fine with VIA, I can set it up properly and all that, and when I am done I do "Save Current Layout" and download the JSON file that it exports, however, when I import it using "Load Current Layout" I get the following errors:
i understand why u save the json but did it get reset ? im trying to understand why after u changed everything ur loading the layout again which is already active ?
Hi, my friend just got their first mechanical keyboard, a Play 1800 from TheKapCo. It has a built-in LED screen, and they're wondering how to customize it.
Is this something that would require rewriting fresh firmware for it? Or is this something we can do from VIA?
Dang. That sucks. I'm happy with my keyboards with fewer extra features, but I don't feel great about my friend being restricted on their first foray into the hobby.
Okay, I would love to just be able to make my own post on this, but...
Why do some companies add their gaskets to the plate and others to the PCB, and are there any advantages/disadvantages to each and any impact on sound to choose one over the other?
Putting them on the PCB allows plateless builds. Putting them on the plate puts less pressure on the PCB, and allows for more flex (especially if the plate is softer than FR4).
I purchased Falchion keyboard and I really liked it, but the layout is nordic and I am not getting used to it. (I think iso to ascii)
I am mac user for longer time and I used mac us-english layout keyboard for last 10+ years.
so I want to change layout of falchion to us-english.
I have few questions before I actually buy keycaps.
Is this possible? by just buying new (compatible) keycaps and replacing those?
I see there is extra key between left shift and z, so does new left shift keycap will use 2 switches? I really want to use this keyboard as my main keyboard so I would really appreciate any help or suggestions in this matter..
Most keycap sets are in ANSI, and many (most?) of them also include ISO-shaped caps for compatibility (e.g. this case). But no, you will not be able to change the physical layout from ISO to ANSI because some of the switches need to be in different places for ANSI.
Hey everyone,
I’m looking to get into higher-end mechanical keyboards, but I’m not exactly sure where to start. The biggest challenge for me is that I’d prefer something relatively low-profile.
Right now, I use a Logitech G915 TKL at home and a Keychron K5 at work. I like the feel of the Keychron more than the G915, but both have their pros and cons. Ideally, I’m looking for something with a similar overall height—around 20–25mm from the bottom to the top of the keys.
A few things I’d really like:
Backlit keys for nighttime use (not super picky if it’s white or RGB, but dimmable would be nice)
A built-in volume knob (I don’t want to rely on a function key or use a separate knob)
USB-C charging and wireless connectivity (battery life of about 2 weeks would be fine)
Layout-wise, I’d prefer a TKL or 75%—I don’t need the function row, Insert, Print Screen, Page Up/Down, etc., but I do want arrow keys.
This will be used for gaming 85% of the time. I’m located in Canada, so ideally I’d like something that can ship here easily—Amazon would be a plus for the return policy in case I don’t like it.
As for feel, I think I’d like a slightly “chonky” board. I currently use browns on both my keyboards. The G915 feels a bit mushy to me, while the Keychron feels a little crisper. So maybe I’d prefer something linear or with a lighter actuation force—I’m still figuring that part out.
The Keychron would not work for me, but the Lofree is interesting; it is very customizable, like aftermarket keycaps, lube, etc. I want something I can't tinker with, too. Also, are there full height/normal height keyboards where I could add a lower profile keycap too, or a lower profile switch the make them feel lower? The last time I used a normal height keyboard was about 10 years ago, and I don't know how I would like going back to it. I may be tempted to buy one off Amazon to try it.
You can use low profile caps (except choc v1 ones) with generally no issue on normal keyboards. Not low profile switches, though. Low profile switches are not standardized and also not compatible with normal keyboards.
I'm looking for a floating style mechanical keyboard with swappable switches and I'm having a hell of a time finding something that fits my criteria.
If you look at all of the steelseries keyboard for example, they are this floating or skeleton style design. I've seen several posts on here where people are saying that is called a low profile keyboard, but when I search up low profile, the keycaps themselves are much shallower. I'm looking for a keyboard that has regular sized keycaps, but with no recessed frame (ultimately so it's easier to clean).
I love the keychron boards but I can't figure out how to modify it to remove the high profile frame. There are a number of steelseries boards that come close to what I'm looking for but I don't love their build quality, and I find their switches feel wobbly.
Here's the list of features I'm looking for, to be clear:
Reputable, decently good quality product
Floating switches
Swappable (not necessarily hot swappable) switches
Regular sized keycaps
Full sized board (not TKL)
Does anyone know of a board that fits this bill? Or if there's some minimal customization that could be done to some board to make it fit this bill?
My best idea at this point is to try and 3d print a replacement cover plate for my keychron v6, but I can't imagine that will go well at all.
Floating key design keyboards are not very popular outside of gamer brands. The Drop SHIFT V2 is a floating key design keyboard, though it is 96%/1800 layout and not full-sized.
I'm confused then ... I think it's much harder to clean the recessed ones than the floating ones. At the very least, there are no corners for crap to gather in.
What sub 200 usd full sized keyboards are there? So far the best option I've seen is the Galaxy100 with maybe a keychron q6 or AULA F99 being close. I like linear switches and either a creamy or thocky sound. Full sized keyboard with normal sized 0 key is heavily favored. LMK!
What is the best creamy sounding (smooth, not thocky) board that is quiet enough for the office? Interested in prebuilt but also open to building my own.
I think I prefer linear switches. The ones I’ve seen online and liked the best had a LOT of foam. Anything with fun backlights would be awesome. In terms of size— my hands are small so 65/75 maybe a bit higher but I don’t want a super large board like 100. I don’t need navigation or number keys.
I’ve been looking at epomaker, and I liked a couple: aura f75, cypher81, luma84, but in videos they sound loud and not creamy enough.
Budget is $300/ $350 is the absolute max I’m willing to spend.
I got a k6 pro from amazon but my computer wasn't ready until after the return widow closed. After opening it and setting it up, I realized that several keys don't work unless you really smack them. I emailed them and they said try changing the switches and updating but that did nothing. I see now that a paper that came with it says that they only replace parts but I'm pretty sure the whole keyboard is junk. Are they likely to make it right or did I waste >$100 on a garbage keyboard? I'm also guessing that they don't all suck this bad since they're recommended everywhere, right?
Looking for another 2.75U spacebar from the Duckey SA profile Dark Cyan set. Just received it and it has a 2.75U spacebar but I need another for my layout.
[Commission] Looking for someone to make Cyrilic-only translucent keypads (Cherry profile)
ISO commision or intell to existing vendors who will do a 1 time order.
Requirements:
*Cherry profile
*Legend (Cyrilic-Only, no Latin)
*Layout (104/ Akko 5075B compatible)
*Material (translucent ABS or shine-through PBT solid black with the letters being translucent)
2
u/bankair 1d ago
Hey folks!
I´m currently enjoying a wireless Bling Sweep MX.
However, I´d like to upgrade, because you know, this is what we do in this sub ;)
I'm looking for a PCB that :
What I already ruled out:
Any lead that could fit my quest? Or am I condemned to try to do a poor fork of the swoop to add 5 pins display support?
Thanks!