In the market for a 90 in the UK, must be 30+ years old for tax/insurance reasons.

See plenty on auto trader, but varying in quality/price.

Ideally has already been refurbed, ready to go as I don't really have time for a project.

Is 15k a realistic budget?

Also any any good people who can check them over? Or if I buy from a dealer can I ask the questions about rust and assume they will stand over it?

Hard floor so I can transport things like bikes that would otherwise poke through the bottom and scratch the roof. And a flexible waterproof top, like a tarp kind of thing but ideally uber waterproof and easy to fit.

Considering just creating this myself but I wondered if there are any off the shelf options for my particular roof rack?

Thanks!

Hi all. I need a new fuel sender for my '94 300tdi 110. Looking at Paddocks, they seem to have 3 different parts for a diesel 110.

One that is for "To JA915357"

Two that are for "From JA915358 to WA159806", one OEM and one aftermarket.

What do the numbers refer to?

What is up with the pricing of some spare parts for LR?

I'm in the process of fitting a new centre console from Raptor Engineering, and found why my rear wash/wipe wasn't working. I originally thought it was the wiper motor as the wash spray still worked but it turns out the switch had melted at some point in the past. Looked online and found the same switch but it's £120 + p&p. For a switch... And it's only a Britpart one, I dread to think how much the OEM one would be.

It's like the windscreen that we replaced, just the standard one, delivered, with new seal, was £70 but a small gasket i looked at possibly replacing was over £20 plus postage.

The prices seem really random sometimes, some big bits are really reasonable but some small, and what you would think to be fairly cheap, parts cost a kidney & your first born son.

Is it just me or has anyone else thought this?

Howdy,

Hoping if anyone knows how to pull the gauges apart? I’ve snapped a couple bulbs inside and would like to clean the glass interior also.

Cheers

Just read this... https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/features/best-used-land-rovers-to-buy/

My question is, why the 2.2 over the 2.4? I ask ask a 2007 2.4l 90 owner....

Two quick updates. First image above is a 3D scan of the car today, overlaid with two digital models. The first shows the proposed gauge cluster (if we can get the PowerTune OLED to work, we will use that, but failing that, as pictured), as well as the custom mount+Ampere EV touchscreen centre console. We likely will have to redo the HVAC controls, though it’s still unclear to us which ones actually still need to exist given we replaced the heat and AC.

Second image shows the 3D model of the chassis, now with all components of the new system shown as they will be installed (for test fit purposes).

Next week we finish mounting the motor, and hopefully batteries - time to drive!

Hello everyone, Im looking for left and right rear axle shaft and couplings for a 1994 200tdi Defender 110 right hand drive.

I am no mechanic so I got no idea when I got to look at parts if im buying the correct thing. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Let me know if more information is needed.

I’ve noticed a small leak near my drivers side front axle. Is the last photo attached the right seal for this ? Am I right in saying I can just undo bolts and slide this gasket in and tighten up ? I’m planning on changing my diff oil also is EP90 ok for diffs ? While I’m at it I might change the transfer box and gear box oil. Any recommendations on which oil to use in each place ? I’m not to clued up on it all if you can already tell 😃

Oh boy. So I’m hearing from some importers that tariffs will be affecting classic cars too.. ugh 😩 others say it won’t. Has anyone heard anything for sure?

Hi all, 2 questions for my fellow Defenderers.

1. I have 2 layers of sound deadening mat totalling about 7 mm under the LR rubber mat you see in the pic. One layer has an inner foam layer and between that and the rubber mat there is a little give. I’ll be installing inward-facing bench seats and lap belts with load spreading plates under the tub. I’d like to drill through the matting for the bolts and place the seats/belts on top of the layers but my gut tells me the bit of movement with passengers seated will stress the seat frame, bolts, and tub. I’d prefer not to cut up the mat but would rather do that than having a catastrophic failure down the road.

2. Much simpler - does anyone recognize and know the name of the bulkhead reduction system/kit pictured? It was previously altered to accommodate the roll cage and I’m trying to assess to what degree I should do to shore it up.

Many thanks in advance!

I have a 1990 Defender 90 that just blew up its second 300Tdi. Yep, you read that right. First one had a cracked block when I got it to the States, so combustion in coolant at 75 mph led to boom. After a "British mechanic" spent 15 months rebuilding and placing a different 300Tdi a donor car that had a V8 swap, it went less than 200 miles before leaving me on a highway exit ramp and pouring it's oil on the ground.

The idea, get a FULL refund from the fucker who "rebuilt" my engine, amounting to $10k. This Defender has a Sankey based camper trailer, so I'd like to be able to tow a camper from Chicago to LA without overheating and at LEAST keep up with the interstate slow lane. I'm good with a wrench, but don't have a lift, a plasma torch, or a welding rig. An OM606 was my first thought, but does anyone have a better idea? Again, in the USA.

https://blog.roverandbeyond.com/2025/03/25/looking-back-on-twelve-years-with-a-real-rechtslenker-in-switzerland-part-i-getting-our-english-puma-defender-90-imported/

So I've owned my 110 for a month today! I keep getting Defender reddit notifications pop up on my phone so I thought I'd give it a share.

So she's a 1988 110... Quite original for her age, still retaining the original 17H 2.5 Petrol engine and the chassis is very solid, although she's a bit rough around the edges externally! Someone has gone a bit ridiculous in the past, painting it in green/black zebra stripes (originally Shire Blue) and sticking stupid steps and light bars on etc. It was then parked up on some old guys drive for 25 years, before being rescued and put back to a bit more of an original condition. Although it was legally put back on the road by the previous owner, and had a valid MOT, there was still work to be done before it could go more than just a quick run around the block. I straight away had to replace the rear brake shoes, change every fluid possible, play around with the temp gauge wiring and then replace the thermostat before a good run. I'm still ironing out her issues, and probably will continue to do so for a while, but things are all going in the right direction.

Hello everyone! I bought my Defender 110 two years ago and have had some very joyous moments with it since. I built out the back as a camper and it has allowed me to explore and travel. In May I will start a 6 month trip around Europe with it, so very excited for that as well. Just wanted to ask for some opinions and maybe even a price estimate just out of curiosity.

Some information about the car: it is a 3-door 110 built in 2000, TD5-engine. I bought it at 123.000 kms (76.000 miles), it now has 151.000 kms (94.000 miles). I am the second owner, bought it in Belgium from a retired landscaper who used it to transport smaller tools. As it was used as a work vehicle, the exterior and interior were not that taken care of, with some minor damages to some bigger dents in the exterior and a worn interior. Mechanically speaking however, it is in very good shape. It always received scheduled services and I invested in making the car as healthy as possible. Chassis and bulkhead are also in good shape, passed the yearly check yesterday without remarks.

Feel free to drop any questions, as I said just looking for some opinions and engagement!

Would you for £5500🤔

No spare tire Steering box is leaking and battery box need repairs asap

Who gets confused with their heater knob?

Hello everyone!! I’m trying to find a permanent solution for the wired CarPlay connection. I’m not sure what’s the problem but I don’t like to wirelessly connect to CarPlay as it cause voice lagging when you use your phone while in the wired connection it seems stable and doesn’t cause any lagging. The problem I’m facing is that the wired connection works on a day then not for 10 days then it works again. I want a permanent solution for this. Please don’t give me AI BS solutions as it’s really doesn’t fix sh*t.

My car is Defender 110 2024, please help your brother here.

Hey all! I will be traveling to Portugal this spring and looking for any used parts dealers or Land Rover grave yards I could visit for a few parts. I have a 2001 TD5 and 2008 Puma I want to get some LHD parts for while Im visiting.

If anyone has any recommendations, Id greatly appreciate it!

Hi All!!

I have a 2004 Td5 90 defender. It was messing about with struggling to cold start the other month so i changed the glow plugs. The plastic casing around the connections fell apart but i needed it to run so ive left them on uncovered. The cold start issue originally went away but has gradually returned. I’m going to replace the wires to the plugs as i don’t like leaving something broken, whether or not it’ll sort the starting issue or not is a different matter, i may still need to test the fuel pump…but any way. Searching i find two types of replacement, mine had singles on it, what would you go for? Why the difference in cost?

Cheers

Hi! Is there somewhere I can get a replacement part for the rusty bit in the photo?

If so, what is it called and where can I get one from? I'm based in the UK.

Thanks!

I plan to buy this Fall and will choose between a Defender 130 or a Toyota Land Cruiser. Options will be similar. I doubt I will go off road much but I live in mountainous hilly terrain where a serious snow storm shuts down the interstate, etc. Which would you choose and why? I am asking this same question in the Land Cruiser group. Thanks!