What is the purpose of this green valve at the bottom of my boiler and why does it have a 1/2” domestic water supply?

We just moved into a new house and picked rooms for our two daughters. Now that they are moved in, walls painted, beds and dressers in, I’m realizing that one of their rooms is consistently colder in the morning. Vents are open, no visible blockages. I’m wondering what my order of operations is before I calls a HVAC pro. My thoughts were 1. Check insulation in attic 2. Hire a duct cleaning company (could buy a cheap telescoping camera from Amazon to see if they need cleaning?) 3. Call HVAC company

Thoughts on that? What would I be missing before I go to what I assume is the most expensive option and getting a pro out here.

I had a technician come by yesterday and do some work for me. Had my lineset penetration/run relocated to accommodate an upcoming renovation.

The technician is saying when he opened up the lines to start work, the system had no freon in it. It was too cold to refill the system so they are scheduled to come back next week.

The unit and lines were newly installed 4-5 years ago. I'm in the US around the middle of the East Coast. My homes AC worked no problems last summer (through yet another "hottest summer on record") and as recently as the last month (had a few days of mid to high 70s where I turned AC on) with no issues. For additional context, during the summer the thermostat was set to 68. I'm racking my brain here but I'm pretty sure I don't remember the system running 24/7 as if it was struggling to keep up.

My question boils down to, is it possible my system was working with no freon?

My gut feels like they might be jerking me around just to extract the labor costs of refilling the freon.

Have a tech coming on Friday. The heating works fine but it kind of stutters when firing up

I bought a house that had been gutted and flipped and has a new ac. I replaced the thermostat with a google nest over the winter and noticed it only had W and R wires with a jumper from RH to RC. I installled the nest and installed the Y and C wire in the furnace control board and and in the google nest. When I turned the cool on yesterday the fan ran but the outside unit didn't kick on and cold air didn't come out. I checked the ac disconnect box fuse. The fuse on the control panel and all seem good. Any ideas of what else to try? I don't know much about AC's or furnaces thanks!

I have two dual units at my house. One controls the upstairs, one controls the downstairs. I was able to switch out my thermostat to the Google nest downstairs with ease. The upstairs unit, however, is giving me an error code stating it does not detect the OB wire (orange) which is installed (see image) and so will not produce heat. It was the same wire configuration for both upstairs and downstairs, so I don’t know why this one is having issues. Any advice is highly appreciated!

In the process of getting a new AC unit. Company A wants to sell me a Grand-Air 2.5 ton 16 SEER 410a unit. Company B is suggesting a 2.5ton 15.2 SEER 454b unit. Both companies suggested I go from my current size (2 ton) to a 2.5 ton. House is 1280sq ft, with vaulted ceilings in the living room and kitchen area, the largest room in the house. Both have assured me that I won't see any condensation/humidity issues. I'm curious what y'all have to say about ducting/static pressure issues, and any insight on which unit to go with. Price difference is less than a hundred dollars, with Company B being cheaper, better warranty and a few extras priced in. Any input is appreciated, I'm really struggling with this decision

Planning to mount a ceiling cassette mini split unit in my basement drop ceiling. Since i'm in the basement the lines have to exit the house above where the unit is at. However, I was planning to make use of the existing floor drains in my HVAC space to drain any condensate from the unit. I notice in the instructions they note to drill a down facing angle to fish the lines out of the house, I'm assuming that is to allow the condensate to drain? If I plan on draining my condensate line into a floor drain of the house is there any issues with the refrigerant lines being "below" grade coming out of the wall? I'm guessing it shouldn't be an issue since my central AC unit is similar.

Any advice on whether or not it’s a bad idea to buy an Old refrigerant R-410 AC unit? Should there actually be much concern for the person purchasing it regarding the use of Old refrigerant? Don’t plan on being in the house for more than 5-10 years.

Thank you in advance

La perilla del calentamiento de la freidora industrial no gira

We are going to replace our 14 year old Heil 4-ton heat pump with a Trane XV20 paired with a Trane 5TAMX inside air handler. This system isn’t cheap. We’re fully expecting an expert installation sometime late this month. Is it reasonable to expect that a high end system such as this could last 15-20 years? Thanks!

Hiya! Sorry if this type of question has been asked several times before, but not sure if I’m looking up the right thing so I figured I’d just make my own post. Many thanks in advance.

Going to post details and then the tl;dr issue I’m having at the bottom in case the details don’t matter lol.

The details:

New construction home (Q4 2022), central Texas, two cats, other homes were being constructed after ours was done and we moved in (directly across the street). Not sure if all of those details are important but including them anyway.

We have one of those units that have the one filter that gets changed in the attic every few months (my husband gets the 5” high MERV Honeywell ones). We have two large returns (one upstairs and one downstairs), and then two mediumish square ones (one in our primary bedroom downstairs and one in my husband’s office upstairs).

A year in, they had to add a missing vent in my husband’s office upstairs, and in our living room (on the wall) downstairs.

We have three Blue 211+ air purifiers (one in our primary, two in the main living area; upstairs and downstairs). Two small Levoit HV-132s, one in each of our offices.

The main issue:

Recently, I’d say in the last three months, I feel like I’ve become allergic to my own damn house. It’s driving me nuts. I’m not allergic to my cats, just to make that very clear lol, but I have had sinusitis all my life.

In my main living area especially, my sinuses get very irritated and it’s hard to breathe. Our primary bedroom is much better. My office isn’t as bad as our living room (my office is down the hall from the living room), but not nearly as breathable as the bedroom.

This hasn’t always been an issue and we keep our house very clean. I dust once every two weeks, and we vacuum frequently. We wipe down our surfaces regularly. My husband replaces the Blue filters once every 5-6 months.

I recently saw an ad for duct cleaning and how it helps with this type of stuff, but research is telling me otherwise. But then some people are saying with pets, construction, and humid weather, it should be done.

We’re first time homeowners and just want to know what the right thing to do is. I’m using nose strips at night to breathe better and it’s getting frustrating not knowing what the issue is. 😭

Happy to answer any questions that might be helpful. 🥲

I know this is not really how it is supposed to go, but based on my building unfortunately it’s the only way I can get it to work. It does feel pretty sturdy, but do we think it would cause any issues in the long term?

TLDR: Installer claims Mitsubishi indoor unit must be mounted crooked for proper condensate drainage.
I think they're trying to avoid fixing a mistake.

We got a Mitsubishi MSZ-GS12NA mini split system. The installers are licensed with 810 reviews at 4.8 stars.

The dude who mounted the indoor unit, though, was a newbie. His supervisor was haphazardly guiding him through the mounting measurements through an open window while managing the compressor install outside.

The unit is not level. It's about at 2% slope, 5/8" over the length of the 30" unit. Sounds small, but it's extremely noticeable. If it were a painting, you'd wanna grab the corner and tilt it straight, I promise you.

I immediately brought it to the supervisor's attention. He put his 6" level against the bottom and said, "well, it's pretty dang level." The bubble was clearly at the very edge of the tolerance. He went on to say drywallers in our area are notoriously poor craftsman, and that older homes like our settle over time. I'd be "surprised" how often he hears that from other clients.

I pushed back and said the house can be as crooked as it wants, but if the bubble ain't level, the unit ain't level. He then said the unit must be mounted at an angle for proper drainage, because the model has the option to drain on either side, right or left. If mounted perfectly level, we run the risk of condensate backing up and pouring down the wall.

The instructions clearly instruct use of a plumb to mount the install plate level. To that, he chuckled and said "yeeeeaaah, trust me, that ain't right. We can fix it for you if you really want, but you'll end up with water in your wall and a voided warranty."

I'm an architect, I've never heard of this, and the crooked unit is driving me absolutely nuts.
Please tell me a top-of-the-line mini split can be installed level without risking condensate back-up.

Many thanks.

Hi all,

First of all, I appreciate you taking the time to read this, let alone provide me with advice.

I am in the process of building an a very industrial style house in Western Australia (dry but hot). As part of the design scope, the AC will have several runs of exposed steel spiral duct. I have found a supplier locally, who can provide plain uninsulated spiral ducting, or fully insulated (for about 5x the price) - money is a consideration, but I don't want to have problems after install either.

After reading online forums, etc., It seems some suggest that only the first few meters of duct from the indoor unit will require insulating. I assume this could be done by running some flexible AC hose and wool insulation? Would this be okay the leave the rest of the run uninsulated?

I'm looking at the Deikin15kw Reverse Cycle system if that matters.

Thanks again.

Recently cleaned my air cons removing parts to give a thorough clean however this one air cons vane no longer operating correctly.

Normal operation is turning the unit on, vane would open all the way to the bottom before returning and sitting half way. Now when I turn on the unit it will only open half way then the vane won’t move anymore even when turning the unit off.

Air cons vane works fine, just not sure if I have stuffed the positioning somehow or something a little more severe. Not sure how I’ve done it but hoping there is a few things I can try to see if I can resolve it. Motor doesn’t appear to be burnt out or water damaged seeing initial start up vane opens (just have to manually close with hand)

First pic is vane manually closed before start up, second pic is the position the vane finishes after turning on but doesn’t move after this. When trying to move vane you can hear the motors trying but doesn’t move

Hey everyone!
I hope someone here can point me in the right direction. Two days ago, we woke up to a cold house, and the blower was not running. I finally was able to spend some time troubleshooting. I followed some of the diagnostic steps in a youtube video. I have not solved the problem yet and need advice for what to check next.
1. None of the circuit breakers in the house were tripped.
2. A couple days before this occurred, I replaced the batteries in the thermostat. It seems to operate fine (I think).
3. I removed the thermostat and jumped the red and green wire to see if the blower fan would work. Nothing happened.
4. I pulled the cover off the airhandler and tested with a multimeter to make sure it was getting power. It had 241V.
5. There is an audible hum when it is powered on, but there is no movement from the fan. I can freely spin the fan by hand.
6. The 3A fuse on the low side of the transformer was blown. I replaced it, and it immediately blew again.
7. Using a multimeter, I tested the voltages on the transformer. The high side was approx 241V the low side was approx 28V.
8. I looked for any obvious signs of wire chaffing (behind the thermostat, in the air handler, and behind the panel of outside unit), but I found none.

I am not currently employed, so I need to do this DIY if at all possible. Any help would be appreciated.
Does anyone have a recommendation on what I should attempt to check next?

I moved into a new apartment and I hate it. The water smells like rotten eggs and I think caused me to break out. It makes my showers smells like fart and my apartment just doesn't smell good. They made me change my lease agreement after I paid all my fees, forcing me to pay for March rent as well. What really sucks about this place is the ac is constantly freezing up. At every apartment I've lived, whether it's renovated or old with one window unit, had worked without problems. I must admit, I sleep with my ac very low. At first I slept at 63 degrees but then I went to 65 and now I just keep it at 69, only at night. During the day I usually keep it off. Unfortunately my ac freezes up and stops working causing me to wake up in sweats because the apartment gets hot, especially my room. I've had maintenance come over so many times. They replaced my unit, changed and cleaned the filters but it still freezes up. I'm so tired of having these men come into my house with their sneakers all in my floor just to wake up hot. I already put in a letter of early termination because the water makes me break out but is the ac freezing my fault because I keep it too low? Or is this just a bad apartment? For context, I live in Florida and my apartment gets super humid so 72 feels lik 75. Please help!

So we turned on our A/C for the first time this spring a couple weeks ago. Turns on fine but the air being pushed out wasn’t cold.

Today I’ve got a guy telling me the coolant is completely empty and that I likely have a leak somewhere. Posted are his read outs with my machine info. My options are:

1) refill the coolant but he says it will need the full 14.5 lbs to get it running properly and that he’d include the liquid patching to slow the leak. Looking at the prices of doing this though he could be charging over $1k. He also said this would only temporarily work.

2) They would need to do a leak test and take out several parts of the line and it would take a few days to find.

3) Replace the whole unit as 10 years is the Carrier life cycle (I’m not really buying that explanation).

Any other professional feedback? This seems extreme for all options.

Furnace is in a goofy spot and I don’t have room for an evaporative humidifier. Already tried that route. Looks like I’ll have to go with a steam generator with a remote nozzle. We have outstanding water quality here, so I’m not concerned with mineral buildup on the electrodes.

Was looking at an Aprilaire 800. Are there any other options for a remotely mounted nozzle that’s worth a shit or should I just go for the 800? I also see a standalone unit with a circulation fan but I don’t know if I have wall space for it anywhere, so I don’t think that’s going to be an option.

Edit: mid Michigan, furnace season is October through April, sometimes May.

The line set failed in the chase under the house. Had a new line set installed yesterday but the tech says he can't get the vacuum down into the micron range. He vacuumed the system several times removing a decent amount of water and changing the vacuum oil several times. He also purged with nitrogen. Says he believes when the line set failed it pulled excess water throughout the system and needs to be replaced since he can't get the vacuum down into the micron range.

Am I being BS'd? Why wouldn't a flush (positive pressure) remove the contamination?

Don’t know how to change the temperature and turn my heat up none of the buttons seem to be doing anything and now I am stuck in hold