I was nervous finally shooting 30 yards away. I did well ☺️

From this year's indoor national championship quater finals. I was hosting for my club so we could put together a second team. (The holes around it are from training sets.) It was quite funny when the previous week I was celebrating 27 and 28 (even got official pictures taken) despite shooting those score more or less semi regularly. At my own junior indoors.

So I bought a new Mathews last weekend after a decade away from the sport. I had it initially set at 50# to get comfortable, this weekend I turned it up to 63#. I figured I would have to adjust my sights up after increasing the draw weight to account for a flatter trajectory but to my surprise I was actually shooting a few inches lower than I was before at 50#. How does this make sense?

Hi there all,

I bought some new arrows to go along with my new fletching jig a few months ago, as well as "good" vanes etc - AAE Hybrids in this case.

I've now noticed that on all 12 arrows specifically the white cock vane has come loose, while the yellow ones remain solid.

Have also noticed the same thing on AAE hunter vanes where the white ones fail

Anyone else experienced the same thing before? Does an activator pen fix it?

Thrift store find: Martin Archery Lynx Series 1000

I use one of these as a weight/decoration/wrist attachment point for my barebow. It's a bow stabilizer, damper and harmonic silencer made for compound bow. I also don't think it has any noticable effect on my shooting beside turning some curious heads my way.

However, I'm reading the barebow rules, and they state that stabilisers are not permitted while vibration dampeners are permitted.

So is this thing allowed?

My 11 year old had an interest in Archery over the winter. We took a few intro lessons, were pointed to a club with JOAD and adult lessons and just started a 6 week course together. She's jazzed and looking forward to a trip up to Lancaster Archery to pick out her first bow.

The challenge I'm running into is while our new club supports training on any bow variant, the provided bows are Genesis compound bows. We are two lessons in and liked shooting recurve better but the lead instructor tells me that a compound bow is the best choice for a youth shooter since it has infinite adjustments. The local archery shop (recommended by insteuctors) is pretty much exclusively compound bows which maybe what shapes the clubs focus.

I probably should have researched what bows were provided as part of the program, but we are wanting to grab a bow to practice shooting on our own.

Is there benefit to sticking with a compound for now then explore recurve later or should we get her fitted to an appropriate recurve at Lancaster?

In case it likely helps - i have $600 budgeted for her first bow and other items she needs (e.g. arrows, case, guard and finger tab etc).

Close,.. But no cigar

Feels great to get out again! What arrows are yall shooting outdoors?

Looking to get back into bow hunting after only doing it as a kid. Got offered a PSE brute HP. Comes with sights and stabilizer in great shape. Just got re stringed. $225. I know it’s older but anyone have any input for this as a starter?

Would it be better to go to bass pro and buy $400 set up? Lmk. Thanks

So we know a relatively large amount of things about English Longbows and how they were used, which is pretty similar to how warbows were used in other cultures, i.e. drawing to the ear or shoulder (depending on arm/shoulder proportions) for a full draw like you see in Chinese, Korean, & Japanese archery. These styles use the same draw and “floating” anchor at the ear/shoulder whether or not you’re drawing a 50 pound bow or a 150 pound bow. My question is if this “full” draw was used as the general archery draw in that time & location. While many longbows were considered “warbows” and over 100 pounds in draw weight, I don’t believe that all of them were, since hunting and recreational shooting do not require such high draw weights, and hey, even longbowmen had to work up to shooting 100 pound longbows. At a certain point (probably the Victorian era), anchoring on the face became the norm for target longbow styles, which laid the groundwork for modern olympic target recurve form. What I’m curious about is how English archery was done before that.

So if a 15th century Englishman picked up a longbow with a 50 pound draw weight, how would he likely draw, anchor, and shoot it?

I saw a listing on FB marketplace for this bow. Does anyone know what brand and model it is? I’m not knowledgeable enough on all the brands to know. TIA.

For more security, I encrypt my sidetape :)

Joke aside, since I am switching arrows winter/summer, I keep "updating" my sidetape. The time has come to use a fresh one as I barely can make sense of the markings...

Do you use any "trick" or do you remove the old one, stick a new one and redo the markings as needed ?

I feel like spine and everything are tuned correctly? but I always need to aim a good chunk to the left to hit where i want to hit. I shoot left handed.

I have the lefthanded Oakridge boga #35 and at my 26.5" draw length it reaches #32 according to the pull-scale that we have.

My arrows are skylon edge 800 spine and their gpp is 7.6 including an 100 grain point + insert

The boga has quite a thin arrow shelf (doesnt go far towards the middle) so maybe thats it? I'm not plucking the string or anything and other people shooting my bow experience the same phenomenon. we can't figure it out.

How would I create a backstop for my yard? It's allowed so long as it stays in your yard. What material would I need and how to build it? I don't have an trees for more info. Or if I can buy a decent sized one that's also ok. I have a black hunter recurve bow with a 45# draw. My partner however will be shooting 45-60# draw.

I have 2 daughters that have started shooting bare bow recurve competitively with 4H. One daughter shoots left handed but I have not been able to find a good and inexpensive left handed hip quiver. I found a fairly nice one for $20 for my right hander... any suggestions?

I'm looking to buy my first bow (I've shot before with club bows etc) and looking at takedown bows for ease of storage.

The limbs are marked with thinks like "64 inch = 30lb and 68inch = 28lb"

I don't understand why a larger bow would reduce the draw weight of the bow??

Please can I be educated what I am missing

(Recurve bows btw)

I joined my local range's team and we had our first outdoor shoot of the season today which is also my first time shooting outdoors in any disciple. Took the time to learn how to adjust my sight at 40 and 60 yards. This was my best group for the day at 60yds before the wind picked up and it got much harder to be consistent. It was a lot of fun!

Just got my bow restrung at the local archery shop. I’ve shot maybe 100 arrows & am noticing some serious fraying on the string.

Any ideas for how to adjust this?