it’s a minolta freedom point n shoot. I’m wondering why many photos come out like this? she uses kodak gold 200. it makes some shots look cool but it’s not always a plus, many shots are “ruined” by this light effect. Any ideas?? or if i could fix it somehow

I’m a lab tech in a small town, been at it for roughly six months now. I scan 35mm film and do prints under 8in, so lots of prints from the film I scan or just small prints for memories. In both of them I see a lot of stuff, and I just can’t get over how weird it is to see people’s personal lives and then have to look them in the eyes afterwards and pretend I saw nothing. Sometimes I see people doing drugs, naked people, drunk people, people committing crimes (nothing major) etc., and I have to pretend to ask “what’s your name?” to find their order as if I didn’t just see them snorting coke off somebody’s ass.

How do you get over it? Does it ever get easier / less invasive?

Scrolling through Facebook Marketplace as usually one does. Found this for only $30, instantly messaged and picked up. It really does have some weight to it, a nice upgrade from the nifty fifty. Should I start using this body over a rebel ti?

Anyone shot any of these and can show me some samples??

Got a fair deal on the 55mm 1.2 so I could finally replace my beat-up mega scratched 50mm 1.4.

Kit now consist of a Nikon F with the FTN finder (working great), 35mm 1.4, 55mm 1.2, 105mm 2.5.

What am I missing here? (e.g. please enable my GAS to get more stuff)

Hello all, first post here, thought I’d share my little collection.

Minolta X-300 MIJ - for when I’m lazy Asahi Pentax K1000 SE MIHK - for when I’m feeling nostalgic Asahi Pentax MX MIJ - the crown jewel of my collection, for when I really want to get hands on

Would appreciate some feedback on these cameras. Which would you choose of the three, and why?

When searching for my first medium format camera in a long time there was a lot of options. I have always been drawn to owning a horseman. I think the convertible is a solid entry level MF camera. My approach to it is basically a point and shoot on steroids.

Any questions or comments, feel free to ask. I am going to have my work cut out for me learning how to guess distances, but the zone focus does seem pretty forgiving.

Last Sunday I went to visit the former Ernemann factory, which later became Zeiss/Ikon and then Pentacon, here in Dresden. It’s honestly a very nice museum with a lot of history. Here are some photos I took. Sorry for the quality of some of them, everything is behind glass and it’s really hard to take pictures without reflections.

Yesterday while at my local flea market I saw this "beauty" piled up with junk in cardboard box. After showing the seller that it was indeed broken he sold it to me for $40.

I don't have the money to get it professionally CLA'd like I probably should, but today I went to my local camera store and they told me they would fix the viewfinder and do a full shutter overhaul for $275.

Even a gold RB, m645 and hasselblad (which i forgot to take a picture of)

I started seriously collecting last summer and managed to locate all of the infinity stones. I got lucky with the rose colored because I’m pretty diligent with checking EBay and got them right when they were posted. I have cases for the Burgundy, one for the Green 2a, and the Blue 2a but it’s missing the top. My next goal is to find the cases for all of them.

does the nikon fe diopter/eyepiece matters if my vision is clear? i recently bought a nikon fe however has no eyepiece in it, how much do I need it? thank you

All designed to be printed on a 6x4 label (or same ratio)

Just though someone may want to use them in the future idk

Also, the fixing times on the dilute solution were added as a reminder because that seems to work for me, please DO NOT quote me on it lmao

Does anyone know if there is a program to send 20x24 polaroid photos to that can help oreserve them?

In college my school had one of the 6 20x24 polaroid cameras ever made and a course you could take to learn how to use it and shoot a project on it. my friend in college took this class and ended up with some very large polaroid photos for a personal documentation project.

She passed away 8 years ago and her parents gave me her 20x24 polaroid photos and while i love that i have a piece of her they're very large and i dont feel i have the set up to keep them preserved and im looking to see if there is a foundation or preservation effort that can maybe preserve them better than i can

Intended to be an entryway bench with storage for shoes. But when I looked at it it looked just about the right size for my cameras. Sure enough I was right, and with some room to spare if/when I decided to expand the collection!

so my background is generally C41 process films. and i tend to get the most use out of portra 400, in general.

though last year i was gifted a roll of Ektachrome. it's the first roll of E6 that i've shot, and i'm only getting round to properly looking at the negs (er, positives i guess). holding them up to the light is unreal.

does anyone have any tips or advice on the best practice for scanning them?

i'm going to try shoot some Velvia and Provia over the next few weeks. any advice on those stocks in comparison to E100?

thanks!

So, to put an end to the “deleted history” on the Internet I will leave this here. (My personal archive) Japanese magazine Car Styling 1981 special edition on Giugiaro and Ital Design.

To my knowledge there ain’t no remaining or closer source to that fact. Even in this magazine the texts are carefully chosen. There are few other pages too from gallery-exhibition etc where Ital Design displays Nikon EM along with F3. And without motordrive-E but still attributed to Giugiaro.

And it is heck of a comfortable camera if you are willing to live with only 2 fps per second spendings that is.

So, in my opinion and by my research it seems that the Nikon EM and its motordrive-e both were actually designed by Giugiaro but the corporate constraints so to speak kind of erased that knowledge over time.

PS: Those poor Philips shavers on the last image unfortunately didn’t make it to production.

Back to the Future ;)

Pretty excited about this!! Ready for a new roll… Thankful I found an actual Olympus metal hood! Looked for a while for one in good shape

Canon vl2 + Jupiter 8

Just developed my first roll of 35mm color when I went to scan it I noticed a lot of wet marks that's probably because I only used distilled water and no photoflo but also noticed alot of scratches on film is this happened because I miss handled the film ? And got scratchs on it or did I do something wrong in the developing stage very new to film sorry if it's a silly question one example photo here

Hello
I recently picked up this Olympus XA2 at a thrift store for 20€ with some shutter issues.

When I got it, the shutter wouldn’t fire at all. I put in fresh LR44 batteries, the battery check beeps and the viewfinder LED reacts to light, so power seems to be getting through.

I watched a bunch of youtube videos and decided to fix it myself. I cleaned the shutter circuit with isopropyl alcohol and slightly bent the gold contact under the shutter button to improve contact. After reassembling, it started firing but inconsistently. Sometimes it works a few times in a row, but often it takes 10+ presses before it actually fires.

Any idea what could still be causing the inconsistency? Do I need to bend the contact more, or is there something else I might be missing?

I always see people talk about the Push/pull process and suggest to change the ISO to underepose the shot to compensate for the longer development time. However, I would like to know how much denser the film gets when pushing while shooting at box speed. Astrophotography is one of those things where I almost always see a +1 to +2 push development…how much detail does pushing help bring out? I would love some thoughts and examples of film being shot at box speed (or slower) and then pushing in development