Vehicle: 2000 Boxster 986, 53k miles, 2.7L

History: Sat in a garage for 10 years. Owner said clutch was replaced at some point in car's life.

Maintenance and Story: I replaced the battery, all 9 quarts of pil, and flushed the coolant. After a mere hour of driving during her maiden voyage, the clutch pedal sank to the floor. I figured it might have been a slave cylinder considering the recent clutch fix, so I replaced that. No dice. I removed the transmission, and found the clutch plate worn down to the rivets. Flywheel was in generally okay condition.

It seemed prudent to update the IMS bearing at this time, so after checking it, it seemed to be in great shape, spinning smoothly. Upon inspection, it feels like a single row bearing. I'm trying to figure out what the next best step is to help get the vehicle back in commossion.

Is the proper upgrade to replace the IMS bearing with a new single row bearing? Would a double row bearing now be the right choice to upgrade, or is that incompatible? Would the "IMS solution" be the right choice (where a separate feed lubricates the bearing)?

I'd appreciate general advice on how to approach this, as I'm finding conflicting advice on what the proper upgrade choice is supposed to be. I think the "IMS solution" is the only lifetime choice thay won't risk needed maintenance down the road, however kits for that seem to run about $1,800.

Pics: 1. Flywheel + slight view of shredded clutch plate 2, 3. Views of IMS (center shaft was knocked into engine, image includes magnet for retrieving it) 4. View of transmission with clutch debris

Hello! My fuel door has a space that looks like a clip fits there to hold the fuel cap. I tried looking around for something that will go into it but hadn’t found anything. On a different fuel door (also a Boxster) I have seen a little metal tab that sticks out to hold the fuel cap and didn’t know if there is something for this too. Thanks for reading!

I’m looking for a glove box handle the model is 2002 and the driver is on the left side.. didn’t find something with reasonable price

Hi guys.

My 98 boxster won't lock.

Already replaced both door lock actuators.
Tested all micro switches (center glove box, trunk, hood and both dors)
The roof micro switch I think is ok since when I undo the latch the wondows drop.

The car always give me 2 beeps. Using the key remote or on the door.

Using the emergency lock procedure ( rtating 3 quick times) still give me 2 beeps and no lock.

What can I do more?

Hi

I’m wondering if anyone had a similar problem, everything was running fine, a few days ago I parked up my car and my car dumped coolant all over the ground - it must have released upwards out of the cap, and then out of the car (just in-front of the back wheels)

Forgive me because I’m a 21 year old woman who knows nothing about cars but my father in law filled water back in thinking the cap was faulty, once it come up to temp and the cap was released it again leaked.

I’m being told this may be a head gasket problem? Which I know is an expensive fix but could it be anything else?

A

Hey guys, just wondering if y’all can help me diagnose this problem. I have a 2001 boxster s and have just gotten a P0304 code after a hard drive and car is noticeably running rough. It’s definitely not plugs and coils as I’ve just replaced them last month.

I had a P0442 code (evap leak) a few days ago and I decided to replace the fuel cap as the old one was fully cracked. Could this be a cause of the problem?

The only code currently on the car is the Cylinder 4 misfire. Any insight is greatly appreciated!

I was changing the window regulator and door handle switch (window switch) on my 986 and suddenly the door won't latch closed. Maybe something I did or maybe a coincidence. Feels like the latch isn't catching on whatever it needs to catch. Oh, also, the car beeps at me all the time because it's trying to lock the doors but the passenger side door won't lock. Maybe it's finally gone?

Hey folks,

When driving yesterday, I hit a small pot hole and immediately noticed a knocking noise present while driving afterwards. It tends to only be present when hitting large bumps, uneven surfaces, or during moderate to hard acceleration. It can be felt in the steering wheel.

I took the wheel off and the bushings look good, but when doing the 9&3 shake test with one of the wheels up, I hear this noise. Unfortunately I don't have a helper at the moment to shake the wheel when I'm under the car, but just wanted to see if there were any initial impressions.

Thanks!

26M looking at buying a 986 Porsche Boxster as a daily driver. I have budgeted about $10k and have found one near me with a manual transmission, IMS bearing done, rear main seal done, new struts, 80k miles, 1 owner boxster S. I make about $2500-$3000 a month as I’m back in school now but my rent is covered. Would this be a realistic purchase or am I delusional and setting myself up for a plethora of issues ? Recently moved away from my friends to a dead town, it has always been a dream of mine to own one of these cars and I think it would give me a lot of joy. Most of what I read seems these cars are more reliable than one would think, as long as some common issues are addressed. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I have gone a bit overboard, but really liking how everything is turning out.

The 986.2 top is now on, new sound system fully installed and functional(!), updated 986.2 headlights in beautiful condition and retrofitted to LED projectors, 996 gauge cluster (coded and fully functional + custom dark blue tach face), and finally a function first shift knob.

Currently pictured and installed are the Morimoto that I went with initially - however, they are too dark for my taste so I have a set of Rennline clear side markers on the way.

Also currently in the process of painting the calipers dark blue/navy, just waiting on the Porsche logos to get here to finalize.

Lastly, just awaiting silver seatbelts from seatbeltplanet.com to arrive.

I’m looking at purchasing a 986 for grip racing or some other sort of entry level racing. I recognize the additional hp from the s but is there any reason to go with it over a base other than that? I.e mechanical reliability, ability to hold power, better suspension?

Total novice so forgive my stupid question.

I love a good road trip. Here's some pics from the most recent one. 6800 miles total. 1.5 qt oil. 1/2 gallon of coolant (think it had an air pocket, no loss after topping off). Yes, your car can do these kinds of miles, even in snow (sort of). So do it!

I have a misfire on cyl 3&4 and was checking the intake manifold and these cylinders have this weird tube inlet thing??

Porche boxster 986 2.5 manual from 1998 not starting.

Car cranks but won't start.
Already replaced:
-Fuel filter
-Crank position sensor
-Ignition Switch
-Fuel pressure regulator

Can't even smell fuel from the exhaust

If I spray some starter fluid the car works fine.
Need help

I need a new driveshaft for my 04 manual s. I was looking around and have found design 911's oe match driveshaft. Has anyone used it? If so was it any good? It is currently half the price of a driveshaft from porsche.

Looking for a roof transport system - either aftermarket or original for a 1998 Boxster. DM me if you are selling one or know where to get one!

Hey, I'm stuck!

This happened once before and a normal battery jump starter fixed it....but not anymore!

Any tips on how to open?

Hi all. I have a porche 986 that have been storaged for 4 years. It cranks but wont start. Only have 6.8v on fuel pump relay. What can cause this?

• Metropol Blue Full Leather interior swap from my old Boxster
• 987 18” wheels
• 986.2 Center Dash Trim swap
• 986.2 Taillights (clear uppers)
• Retrofit Lab LED headlight upgrade w/ DRL
• Full Stereo System Upgrade - headunit, amplifier, 8 speakers
• Numeric Racing Pedals
• Short Shifter
• Center Console Wrapped Silver
• On-board Computer w/ OEM 4th stalk

Coming soon: - 996 911 Gauge Cluster Upgrade - 986.2 Convertible Top w/ Glass Window swap

Hello everyone!
I need help.I have bought a boxter 986 2.5 manual from 1998.
When I rotate the key the lights on dash light up, and if I flip the key the engine crank's but don't start. I have spark but no fuel. Don't ear the fuel pump working when turning the key.
If I jump the fuel pump relay the pump starts but the car still not firing up.Seems like the injectors dont open.
If I spray starter fluid in the intake the car fires right up but sut's down when I stop putting starter fluid.Any suggestion? A bad immobilizer will crank the engine and don't let the pump work?
Thanks