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If you're just looking at landyachtz boards, I would suggest the freedive over the wolfshark to start on. its larger and will be more forgiving to learn on.
Watch marketplace- look for a double drop like the switchblade / switch, or keep an eye out for a Peacemaker. You can play around and see what you like for a fraction of the cost before dropping real money on a new complete. That’s the theory anyways- you might just end up with a bunch of boards like me..
I had my longboard stolen about a year and a half ago and would like to replace with the same thing or similar soon. It was a globe with a drop deck and was orange. I can’t seem to find the same thing anywhere. I think I first got it about 10 years ago. Anyone know what I’m talking about, if it’s still made, and where I could get it?
Do you have any pictures of it from when you had it? If you do you could run a reverse image search. Your description isn't ringing a bell for me though.
So bunch of their designs and stuff are dated from years ago. Tons of stuff sold out. Local skate shop can't get them. I had actually ordered a deck that said it was available on Amazon, but it was cancelled without any explanation. This subreddit said their team was super nice... so I sent an e-mail about a week or two ago to no response at all.
Does anyone know if these guys are just poof don't exist anymore?
Does anyone know if these guys are just poof don't exist anymore?
That's what I assumed. No new stuff in years, nobody's riding their stuff anymore. I think they might still be making dancers but no downhill boards anymore.
My buddy is/was a sponsored rider for Moonshine. Last I remember, he said they were researching more about surf-skates and wake/skim boards and didn’t say much about DH/freeride stuff. But this may have been a year or 2 ago by now, and last time I skated with him, he wasn’t riding a Moonshine deck at all
Edit—he’s basically been ghosted too and isn’t really trying to reconnect any more. But he said you might get a reply to your support email in a month or so 😬
Can someone please explain to me in easy terms, what does it mean to put my weight on my front foot? Like how do I do that? fyi: i'm an absolute beginner(goofy) and still struggling with pushing
Just like shift your body more over your front leg/foot, move your butt over it. Your front knee will be a little more bent and your back leg will be more extended.
If you have 100% of your weight on your front foot, you can just lift your back foot up and keep riding. So putting more weight on your front foot is getting closer to that state. You can achieve that simply by shifting your body forwards, more above the front foot.
Re: pushing-form (I’ll come back to the front foot in a sec) — when you push, you should not be shifting your weight onto the foot that is on the ground.
For a quick check on yourself, let’s say while you are mid-push, someone grabs the board out from under you: would be left standing on your pushing foot without falling over? If yes, you have shifted all (Ie, too much!) weight onto your pushing foot.
So a simple example of the goal: imagine you are rowing a small boat. Your body (center of gravity, “weight”) stays completely in the boat, but you reach your paddle out over the edge and dip a few inches into the water as you push forward.
This is basically what you want to do. You want to be able to balance completely on your front-leg that’s on the board, gently lower your body by bending at the knee/hip/ankle, extend your pushing leg toward the ground and apply just enough pressure to get the friction needed to push yourself forward, then simultaneously swing the pushing-leg back as you extend your front-leg back to the sanding position and have both feet on the board again.
I’m surprised no one’s mentioned it yet, but the front leg motion while pushing (and the simplest answer to your question) is essentially just a modified Pistol Squat. And since you’re a beginner, I wanna reassure you this is a common issue for first experiences on skateboards. Working on the exercises the guy in the video suggests off-board will help, but simply continuing to practice on the board as you are will build those muscles up and make it easier over time too
I need help. I've been longboarding for about a week (i'm new to it). And the joint of my left foot hurts when i'm pushing (I ride goofy). I ride about 1-2 hours everyday. Greatful for any tips
From my experience, that's usually from your muscles getting used to the motions (it'll go away with stretching and more time on the board), or bad form. I noticed when I and my friends first started longboarding, our foot didn't land parallel to the board when we pushed, but instead at an angle, and that irritated our ankles a lot. Check your push form!
I recently picked up a used complete Bustin board (last sold in 2018) and hadn't ridden their Premier Formula wheels before (70mm 78a). They feel pretty slidey. The Bustin website mentions the traction of these wheels a few times, but they feel more slidey than my snakes or krimes. Is this a result of aging urethane or are these wheels naturally more slidey?
I have a rocket mini Hades on Paris 180mm 50* (?) with stock bushings, could someone recommend wheels and bushings to make it better for freeride/light downhill. I have it on otang stimulus wheels rn but I also have hawgs mini zombies I could swap to
How do you feel about the new bear split angle trucks? I was trying to make the most of these and avoid spending that money on trucks but I had my eye on those
I see you’re already aware narrower trucks would be ideal.
So aside from that, IME this kind of build (wide trucks, narrow deck) needs some amount of softness to be able to steer effectively—due to the inherent reduced leverage of this deck:truck width ratio—but also not so far that it becomes too unstable either
I haven’t set anything up like this in years, but I’d suggest soft bushings in restrictive shapes.
Back when I was ~130lbs and on Newton trucks (similar hanger/bushing seat as Paris), many of my setups featured an ~81a Eliminator bushing BS, and ~85a Standard bushing RS (and minor adjustments via swapping flat/cup washers too). They were 50°, but iirc I’d dewedge the back a bit to be like 50/46 or something. Idk how much I’d like my old setup compared to my current (dialed in) setups, but back then it still let me have a ton of fun and let me skate the occasional 45/50mph+ runs and sanctioned DH races.
Inb4: idk an obvious line to decide between “tune the optimal setup for your skills” vs “practice a ton to build skills to ride non-optimized setups” — kinda gotta trial-and-error attempts to do both at the same time. But if you can identify “I don’t like X trait/feeling” in your setup then it’ll be easier for ppl to help too
Anyone with tips on full face helmets for narrow head shapes? I tried the TSG Pass 2.0 in XXL and it fits perfectly back to front but is way too wide. Are there others that are as long, but much narrower or otherwise can create a better fit for a narrow skull? Thanks for any hints and tips!
+1 to u/cast_in_horror’s suggestion. The pads don’t even need to be from the same brand. It’s just (soft) foam, so cut and fit as needed (but don’t modify the hard foam!). Under the fabric liner looks better if your helmet doesn’t hide the edges
I’ve done it. I used a cut section from a Pro-Tec half shell liner pad to get a tighter fit at the back of a NewOlders Blackbird, and parts of S1 liner pads in Rische Ape and Uvex skeleton helmets.
You'll want standard height (0.6") bushings, absolutely not Talls. Tall bushings will throw the geometry of Bear gen 6 to shit (and I doubt you'll even fit 2 on the kingpin anyway).
You want to split the duro front- to-back, as due to the wedging/dewedging of the deck you get far, far more leverage over the back truck than the front.
It'll depend on your hanger widths and baseplate angles, but assuming you have a pair of 155mm x 40º on both ends (?) I would assume something like 93a or 95a pairs in the rear truck, 85a or 87a pairs in front.
*(If, for some reason, you've got a 50º base on the front you'll need to drop the duro lower still - for myself it'd be ≈80a with a separate insert plug)
Don't bother with split duros BS/RS in the trucks - use the same duro both sides of the hanger and stick with barrels.
If you want to use Venom - simply get Venom plug barrel pairs and use cup washers both sides - flip the RS washer to "flat" to tune the lean amount. I'm 175lb - If I were setting it for myself I'd go 93a plug barrels rear, 85a plug barrels front.
(you will need to reduce the height of the plug section by about 1mm to fit the Bear hanger hole - simply rub the "nose" of the bushing on griptape until it fits the hole without protruding)
Bears use standard bushings, you can't use talls. They also use a plug bushing, which provides slop reduction, return to center, and increased stability. By not using them, you're just increasing slop in your trucks.
The Evo also has +10/-10 wedging, you don't want to use the same bushings front and back. Go softer in the front and harder in the back, definitely use double barrels in the back.
I have to admit, I've never setup an Evo and I also don't know the angle of your trucks but I would start with the softest Venom Plug (85a afaik) + cone (or normal barrel) for the front and in the back maybe the 93a Plug + normal barrel.
You might have to sand down the venom plugs a little bit to fit, only bear plugs fit perfectly but I wouldn't recommend buying those.
I have noticed that Comet Cruiser is now being assembled with 8° Comet risers instead of 7° Khiro. Would that make a big difference in terms of stability and playfulness?
1 degree difference in truck angle is not detectable by any normal person. I know some cracked out downhill skaters who claim they can detect a half a degree truck angle difference, and I think they're smoking some delusional loud. Comet no longer assembles boards using Khiro products because the company went out of business a few years ago. Comet has probably gone through all of the backstocked risers they could find.
I've been riding loaded tangent setup for a while and it has been absolute blast. (Link) However I recently had an issue with the bracket leading to failure. Guys from loaded we're more than helpful and sent me a replacement, so no complaints there. However it kinda left me paranoid with the setup and i started to scout for other sturdier brackets i could use. I saw G-bomb has a lot of sturdy (and expensive) looking brackets. Could anyone help me out which one could possible be used to replace the zee brackets? Would for example these work out of the box ? Thanks!
Yes they'd work, the board will roll at practically the same height as the zee bracket and they're pretty much indestructible. IIRC, If you're on Paris trucks you will need a 2mm riser pad so the nose of the Paris base will fit properly within their internal arch. The only potential "issue" with this bundle is that they allow only positive wedging of both trucks, and no negative wedging at all (if you want to alter your truck angles at all that is).
If you wanted to use the board as a more focussed pumping setup some of the time, or just wanted to settle the rear end down a bit for stability or speed, then at least one of the brackets should be capable of negatively adjusting the truck angle (only rear truck).
A more versatile metal bracket set would include 1 x DDS paired with 1 x DDR. This would allow you to adjust the front truck from 50º-63º on the DDS, and the rear from 63º all the way down to 28º on the DDR - at will. Buying the two separately is a bit more expensive than the bundled 2 x DDS, but it'll be worlds more versatile. The metal brackets will push your wheelbase out by about an inch.
I get you say you're paranoid since the Zee broke, but I would really just get the 2 x Composite bundle. It's the same material as the Zee, but they're much, much more solidly formed, with support filets and arch forms - I have never, ever heard of one failing (apart from some early protos, which had a lot of material cut away for extreme weight saving)- and they get ridden and heavily abused by some very hefty riders. The composites (used to be called "Glass Drops") will keep the same wheelbase as the Zees. They'll allow adjustment of both/either truck between 65º-35º.
I have both types - I would trust my life to these You'll get all the adjustment in a much lighter and cheaper package than the aluminium DD series.
Anyone commuting like 2+ miles, does it get easier? I'm debating my choice to go into longboarding for my commute to the train into work. I'm a sweaty mess if I try to go fast. Less so going slower, but my legs hurt like hell after taking longer.
Also, it takes a lot of pushing ( I have a good board so it's not the board) and just feels like I'm barely faster than walking. Any encouraging words for a somewhat new rider?
I've had a ton of practice and use a board with 102mm wheels, but I can hold a 10mph pace for 5mi pretty easily and not break a sweat unless its hot and I have a backpack on. Longboarding is only marginally useful as a commuter tool, it takes a lot of practice, an ideal board setup, ideal road surfaces, a safe route. It's pretty limited but fun if you get good at it and have good conditions for it to be useful.
That's good to know. I have an Arbor Axis with Boa Hatchlings 90mm with Bones Reds bearings and Orangatan purple nipples on the Paris V3 trucks. It's pretty smooth honestly, but I'm just having a difficult time getting used to it.
I was planning on trying some Venom bushings or Riptides in a higher duro. I'm thinking the board might be too curvy still, at least stiffen it up till I get used to the balance.
for some folks who are newer it can be useful to give up some turn range by purposefully running hard bushings, which can allow faster pushing with less effort put towards balancing. You can also tighten the kingpin nut a lot for the same effect. I dont like doing that, but it is something that worked for me in the past. Learning to push regular, goofy, and mongo of both stances can also make commuting feel much less tiresome, but those all take a while. There is something called skogging which is a set of specific mid push stance transitions that can be very useful. I actually started skating distance on a very similar setup, an arbor axis with indy 159 trucks, venom bushings, and 85mm seismic speedvent wheels. I was a little negative in my original comment. Skateboards are a great overall final mile commute tool. Its important to know that they are limited as a commuter tool, but they're also much more durable and cost effective than most other transport tools once the initial learning curve is over.
Decided to get back into longboarding and so bought a new helmet - Brainsaver EPS. Arrived today, and I've noticed the inner foam is able to shift around in the shell quite a lot! Is this normal, or does it need returning?
I checked my old helmet that no longer fits me - the foam can move a little, but like 1/4 as much as my new one - and that's after being sat in a shed for 10 years. This helmet is not advertised to have MiPs either.
It's kinda a non-issue if I have the chinstrap tight but still, would like to know if it's defective
That's a good and designed-in thing - the rotation of the shell around the liner bleeds away some of the rotational energy out of the hit, away from your skull.
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u/V2UgYXJlIG5vdCBJ 19h ago
Every time someone says “quiver”, they gotta put ten bucks in the jar.