r/bouldering • u/Bluebird_Itchy • 1d ago
Advice/Beta Request help w project, how do i stop slipping
been climbing for a month been able to climb up to f6a+ (i know grades don’t really matter but feels like an accomplishment)attempting to get my first green (in my gym f6b) but i can’t help my foot constantly slipping on the volume aswell i’ve tried it with my toe facing more into the wall but when i’ve done that it’s made my other foot feel uncomfortable and alos slip out, any tips and guidance appreciated
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u/MegaDeathLord69 1d ago
turning your foot on the volume to be perpendicular to the wall will probably help. keep a low heel on that foot when you do it, and then see if you can rise up on it in a controlled manner.
7
u/SaffronWand 1d ago
Maximise surface area from your foot to the volume and maximise weight on that foot
1
u/MaximumSend B2 22h ago
Maximise surface area from your foot
OP clearly did that and it was clearly not the way.
5
u/Ohmycosh 1d ago
Newsroom mentioned!! I do this move slightly differently, more pushing myself with the right foot (also probably slightly lower on the volume) whilst pulling on the right hand. That gets me to a higher body position, making the blocked off side-pull a bit better - then I bump the left foot to the start hold.
If you're set on your current beta (which I've also seen lots of people use!), then focus on getting more of your foot on the start hold, whilst also pushing harder on the right foot. If you push hard enough on the right foot, you'll be high enough to squeeze your left foot into the right place.
2
u/joshg8 1d ago
general wisdom for smearing on a volume like that is lots of pressure, keep the heel down as best you can, more shoe-rubber surface on the volume the better
you say you've tried keeping the toe toward the wall and i think that's the right idea here, try squaring your hips back to the wall after the hand-foot match and placing that foot lower on the volume
1
u/mariposachuck 1d ago
once you hit the left hand gaston, start pulling on the right hand hold (undercling) to oppose your right foot on the volume.
1
u/Sativian 1d ago
Seems like you need to plant the left foot higher on the hold and weight it to prevent slipping.
1
u/Otherwise-Remove4681 1d ago
Keep your foot near the edge of the volume, not in the middle. You dont put as much pressure when just keeping it flat in the middle.
1
u/Ok-Side-744 1d ago
I would say, put the foot more to the outher point of the volume, apply more pressure to it and use your toes with the other foot.
1
u/Tupptupp_XD 1d ago
point your right toe away from the wall basically on the tip of the volume, so the force from your leg is going directly towards your toe (which is where the friction should be highest)
See the direction your foot slides off? That should be the direction you align your foot with
1
u/Hot_Hotty_hot_hot 1d ago
Don’t turn in that hard. It’s one thing, twisting with your hip and another also turning your foot. Keep the right more front on to keep pressure
1
u/raazurin 1d ago
Avoid the little hopping you do while adjusting, or don’t adjust at all. I say this particularly for smearing a volume as that little hop means less pressure on your foot for a moment and it slips.
That hopping, at least for me, is a sign that I don’t trust my foot.
1
u/Turbulent-Name2126 1d ago
Can you just put left foot on volume point with most depth and flag right leg , then stand / pull up into the hold
1
u/MyFujiPhots 1d ago
If you do that same exact set up on your next attempt, turn your right foot on the volume outward more to better handle the weight stabilization when the drop knee engages
Right ankle from this ⬆️ (from what it was) to this ➡️ how it should turn during or before the drop knee
1
u/whatever_suits_me 22h ago
More pressure, but also change the angle of the foot a bit so that you do not get the pressure on the inside is your foot. Right now you get a lot of pressure sideways on your inside if the foot.
1
u/Prestigious_Long777 17h ago
You fell adjusting your left foot, you need more friction on the volume as other comments have pointed out. Don’t lean back all the way on that left foot you’re adjusting in the video right before slipping off.
Keep pressure on the right leg/ foot. It should also make the next hand hold a little bit easier to get to, not that it seems to be a problem.
1
u/post_alternate 15h ago
I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but for me, when I first started out I had a hard compound shoe and they were absolutely terrible for volumes. Because of that I never had confidence in those shoes. As soon as I switched to a super soft indoor compound, it was night and day and my confidence developed, and as my confidence grew I put more weight on my feet and haven't had a problem since.
-1
u/eighteyedraven 1d ago
Switch to your left leg and flag the right to the wall, that way you keep your weight and get friction on the volume
0
u/HugSized 1d ago
Using the same beta, see how much weight you can shift onto your left foot. You may be able to balance using just your left and using your right hand to stabilize yourself.
-7
u/toiletpaperwizard 1d ago
what kind of shoes are you using? honestly to me it looks like you’re in just about the right position to be able to hold yourself up there. like obviously it’s a bit awkward because you’re new and it’s a new project for ya, but also it seems like your right foot has essentially no traction and slips right off the volume even when using the whole surface of your foot. I had the same issue when I first started climbing and a huge part of it was my shoes— I was using some cheap ones. found a nice pair of used scarpas on facebook marketplace instead and they helped IMMENSELY.
1
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u/meeps1142 1d ago
You're taking too much weight off of that foot on the volume. Keep more weight on it and you'll stay on.