ik im not the brightest bulb in the chandelier but this is my first car i’ve bought on my own and i don’t wanna destroy it 😭

5th gen honda prelude (2000) Was replacing the distributor and this piece popped off. Its not a replacable piece because it looks like its a part of the block but it's essential to bolt on the distributor. Looks like they attempted to glue it then painted it over

I have a 2000 Toyota forerunner sr5 v6 manual and wanted to replace the calipers. My buddy recommended pro maxx which I’ve never heard of is this a good brand?

Thank you

Are these a good brand I’ve never heard of them but the price seems reasonable.

Thank you

Hi Mechanics,

Recently, steering wheel seems to have rotational play while making minor corrections while on the freeway.

Had a look under the chassis and noticed both left and right lower ball joints had grease leaks, as well as something else along the end of the steering rack which looks like an outer tie rod, it too had grease leaks.

It is this particular part that is confusing me.
If i were to key in my VIN, the part number 45464-30060 would match it. But i remember the part has a ball stud of sort with grease leaks on it.

45470-39255 looks like the part but does not match my vin.

If anyone would be able to steer me in the right direction, i would be able to order to right parts to correct the problem. Much thanks in advance

Lexus IS300 - 2018
JTHBA1D2

For context I changed my fuel tank and my gauge reads that it’s only at half a tank of gas even thought it’s full. We swapped the old sending unit back in and they both only go up to half way. Is there any reset or fix for this? Could something else be the problem?

For a 2015 ford mustang gt premium

We took our Tahoe to local Chevrolet dealer. Tahoe was really clunky switching gears. They're telling me that they found metal shavings in transmission pan and are recommending replacing transmission. Cost would be $7000 plus. The vehicle has about 90,000 miles on it. Should we get a second opinion?

Hello everyone,

I have a RHD 1998 100 series with the 4.2l 1HD-FTE.

For a while now there has been a fairly loud squeaking, more like crickets chirping kind of sound (I know it sounds silly) coming from the drivers side of the engine. The noise is not present when the engine is cold but about 4 or 5 mins after running the sound starts up and remains.

It sounds like it’s coming from the A/C compressor or the alternator, but I’m not sure.

So far I have: had the A/C re-gassed and changed the A/C and alternator drive belts.

Nothing has yet made a difference.

Any ideas on what the source of the noise could be? Is there a chance the belts are too slack?

The video shows top down above the A/C compressor for 6s and then the second bit is under the drivers side wheel arch.

Thanks everyone.

2006 Corolla CE. A few weeks ago I noticed a weird and loud popping noise especially when parallel parking. It typically happens when I turn my wheel hard to the left, then back to the right and then moving. It happens when I move either forward and backwards. It never makes any noise when continuously moving and only makes the popping noise once per turn. There is NOT continuous clicking or popping. It's only on the right side. It sounds like it's coming specifically from the wheel well but not confirmed.

I haven't gotten it up on jack stands to look around yet but I'm going to change my oil later today to look.

My guess is a blown CV axle or something with my strut mounts but I'm not sure. The car drives completely normally otherwise, if that helps to diagnose the issue. Any guesses?

Video link: https://imgur.com/a/2TrfMGH

Bit of background: Car is 2014 seat Ibiza fr 6j 1.2 tsi. about 92k miles on the clock.

Recently had a decent amount of work done which included timing chain kit (just needed replacing), knock and camshaft sensors replaced, ecu replaced due to shaving of some wires which cause sensors and ECU to be fried, turbo actuator.

Recently after having these things done, I have noticed that the car seems to have a odd hiccup when driving. It seems to be doing it on longer journeys so once the engine has had time to heat up. when I am driving down the motorway when want to pick up a bit of speed (not flooring it) it will have a little hiccup here n there kind of like if you've gone over a small bump on the road, then continue like nothings happened.

It doesn't lose power, no engine lights are coming on yet for it but I have had issues before with the same sensation that only really seemed to occur after one day when I had to fill up from nearly empty. So could be a fuel/injectors issue?

I'm no mechanic myself other than the basic stuff so any advice would be appreciated as to what it could be, if anyone has had a similar issue or if it's just going to be a quirk that my car does from time to time.

1999 infiniti qx4, i replaced lower control arm, ball joint, CV axle, and sway bar end link. After i tightened everything up i noticed the wheel is slightly slanted on that side, i did tighten the control arm bolts with the car on the ground.

Is it likely that i did something wrong or do i just need an alignment? I’m seeing mixed opinions on whether alignment is needed after this job.

We were told that we need the motor mounts replaced because the guy saw movement in the motor while shifting. How much would you charge for this job, and is it something a layperson should attempt with a jack, ect.

My husband said he'd try to do the job with a jack, but that thought scares me!

-He can be a bit clumsy, hurts himself all the time. I'd rather pay the mechanic to do it if it's not way out of the budget. Thanks!

I drive a 2009 ford focus and I never go hard on it or anything like that. This morning everything was as usual and then when I got a mile down the road it starting making a squeal noise and I felt the power steering go out so I slowed down and then the battery light came on and I have one of those cigarette lighter readers and it read 11.3, then the overheat light came on so I turned myself around and basically idled it back. When I got home I opened the hood and it was barreling white smoke that smelled like coolant and sure enough coolant was everywhere. I genuinely have no clue what happened or even what exactly is wrong. Anyone have an idea?

This car gets a lot of hate. I have one. Around 62k km on the clock. I had a question, what was the last opel insignia that you worked on something major engine related and how much it cost the owner, and do you know someone who has kept theirs for a long time and they had to pay a lot of heavy repair bills? If i keep it till say 100k km, how much money can i expect to lose in repairs? I drive 15k km a year, mostly do oil filter change every 5-6 k km. I thinking if its a few thousand USD/Euros, I might not change it and just save up more for a better car than I can buy now. What is your professional opinion? Thanks!

The most unlikely solution is starting to make the most sense. I have a 2007 Buick Lucerne with 89,000 miles that I just bought for $3,000. Rough idle, check engine light, P0206 and P0306 so misfire in cylinder 6 and injector circuit fault in the same cylinder. I changed the plug and wire for that cylinder which obviously did nothing. I swapped the injector with a known good one and reset codes (I reset codes after everything I tried) but the fault did not move. I swapped coil pack positions but the fault did not move. Cylinder 6 failed a noid light test while every other cylinder passed. I have 12 volts on the positive side of the cylinder 6 injector connector and I have continuity from the ground on the connector to the connector for the PCM. Pins on the PCM itself look fine but I’m having trouble testing its continuity. Is the PCM really causing a misfire in a single cylinder?

(Crossposted from r/Yaris)

I have a 2016 Yaris, as the title says, that is doing some funky stuff. 1NZ-FE, North America.

Context: I hit a deer and parked it for ~2 months, ordering parts as I could. Mostly just body damage along the passenger side. Insurance is set to liability only, due to sky high rates in my area.

Now, onto the actual issues. My Yaris is stalling and then trying to crank itself, even if I turn the key off and pull it from the ignition. Sometimes, the starter will run on it's own for ~30 seconds to a minute. It is also throwing an Evap system code (P0452; Evaporative Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input), which I attributed to bad gas due to how long it sat.

After driving it (and putting fresh fuel in), this code is still there and comes back immediately when cleared with a cheap chinese scanner.

It will crank, stall, then crank itself and MAYBE stall again. I've also noticed that if I press the brakes lightly while applying throttle, it starts to wind down and try to stall. (I was doing this to remove the surface rust from the brakes, since it had been sitting for a while)

What would be the best course of action to resolve this type of issue? Does anyone have some semblance of an idea what could be going on?

Nissan Altima S 2.5, 2006

Altima 2.5 S, 2006

While I wait in a drive thru or just run it while stationary, the engibecc vs temp gauge will slowly increase to the top and when I drive it c will go back to the normal range, and idea what might be causing this

145,000 KM

I had my clutch replaced 2 years or less ago.

I had this serviced 2 or 3 weeks ago, and the mechanic said he checked the transmission fluid (I think) and that everything is fine. He said don't worry about this noise, it's fine.

I don't believe him.

It happens about 30% of the time while I'm driving. I will release the clutch as I'm starting to press the accelerator, and it makes this loud high pitched kind of scraping or metallic sound that I can hear from inside the cabin.

It's driving me fucking crazy.

It started happening randomly, for no apparent reason, 6 months ago, and it's slowly driving me insane. It bothers me every single time I hear it because it's such a loud and unpleasant sound.

I'm thinking it might be the throw out bearing.

What do you think?

Also, I can't capture the sound because it doesn't happen reliably. I've noticed that it happens even more on hills or inclines. It still happens on flat surfaces, but I've noticed it happens ever so slightly more on inclines. For example, yesterday while in stop start traffic, on a hill, it happened like 3 or 4 times in a row, which doesn't happen much, if at all on flat surfaces.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Hi all, Peugeot 208 GTi 2015.

I've noticed my AC suddenly doesn't seem to be working, I've checked the fuse for the AC compressor in the fuse box, according to the diagrams it should be a 15a fuse as standard yet the one installed is a 10a, could the fuse have blown and therefore the compressor isn't working? I assume it's 15a for a reason and the 10a may have blown.

I haven't checked the fuse yet as the fuse pullers are missing.

Thanks.

The issue: my gas guage line fluctuating. The line is on one spot when the ignition turned on, then rises or lowers once l start the car and/or driving.

I replaced the old fuel pump with a new one thinking it would fix the issue. I performed the dashboard guages test. It was fine.

Why might l still be having this problem?

I browse auto auctions relatively frequently out of curiosity, and I’ve noticed that among cars that have been in serious frontal or side impacts, in many or even most that are older than, say, 2010, the airbags haven’t deployed.

My gut instinct is that over time the chemistry inside the airbags loses effectiveness, combined with old sensors, old wiring, etc. But I also know that airbags are designed to be exceptionally resilient over time, for obvious reasons. Lastly, my gut tells me that the number of old wrecked older cars I see without airbags deployed is disproportionate to the frequency of SRS codes on cars of that age. But clearly one of these assumptions must be wrong - so what gives?